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23468Re: help with kamakura garb

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  • wodeford
    Feb 20, 2008
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      --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "panimagdalena56" <nunother56@...> wrote:
      > I finally understand the layers of robes and seasonal colors for the
      > Heian era but how did it change in the Kamakura era?
      It didn't in the Imperial court. Lady Nijo's diary, chronicling events
      in the middle of the Kamakura period, indicates that the court was
      still harking back to the glory of the Heian period, fashion wise.

      The kasane color combinations specifically refer to your hitoe and the
      five (or fewer in summer or really informal situations) layers worn
      over it. The color of the uwagi worn over that is not specified
      anywhere that I know of.

      Best place to look online is the Kyoto Costume Museum website.
      http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/

      Outside the court, it's likely that the rigorous color combinations of
      kasane did not remain in fashion. Layering continued to some extent,
      but nagabakama went away and kosode became the basic unit of one's
      wardrobe. However, season-appropriate colors and design motifs
      probably did exist. While the following link is to a poetry site, it
      may give you some ideas as to what motifs (and related colors) are
      appropriate in certain seasons. http://renku.home.att.net/500ESWd.html
      For example, a kosode or uchikake with plum, pine and bamboo (the
      "Three Friends") on it would be just the thing to wear in winter,
      cherry blossoms are spring, maple leaves autumn, and so forth...

      If you don't have it, Liza Dalby's "Kimono: Fashioning Culture"
      explores the Heian kasane in great detail.

      Hope this helps a bit,
      Saionji no Hanae
      West
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