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17158Re: [SCA-JML] Re: silk painting -- tangent

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    Dec 2, 2004
      From what I remember, it goes something like this.

      The peasants would take scraps or rags and sew them onto their clothes to
      fill in holes or make it thicker (warmer).
      Sometime this layering got 3 to 5 layers deep.
      As time progressed the sewing of scraps or rags onto clothes used stitches
      that were created to emulate designs. So, if they sewed a circle of clothe
      over a hole in the garment, the stitching was done in a circular design. If
      they added a chunk of rag to thicken up their garments, they used various
      patterns/designs in the stitching to hole the rag chunk onto the garment.
      When the samurai rose to prominence they brought this technique with them
      and it became know as sashiko. The use of white thread over two layers of
      fabric to hold them together was later period, post 1600. I think the
      earliest known piece was about 1678 or 1768(?).. There is still debate
      going on that it could have been used in-period, but nothing to verify it

      Sashiko was never done with batting or filling.

      However, there are examples of filled or batted kimono used as sleeping
      blankets, but they did not have any stitching to hold them together (other
      than the seams), rather they used raw silk, which when applied to both sides
      of the fabric, glued the silk cloth to the silk batting.

      So it appears our Daimyo is correct.


      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "S. David Lee" <ogamibusho@...>
      To: <sca-jml@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 2:58 AM
      Subject: [SCA-JML] Re: silk painting -- tangent

      > --- In sca-jml@yahoogroups.com, "maggie_mae1@j..."
      > <maggie_mae1@j...> wrote:
      >>I was told that some padded and/or quilted garments are created
      > with fabric scraps (as wool was not available to create batting)
      >> Megge
      > While clothing certainly isn't my area of expertise, it's my
      > understanding that the Japanese didn't quilt in the Western sense of
      > the word.
      > The padding in jacket which Akiley and I made has the batting sewn
      > to the inside seam allowances, which I was told is a period
      > technique. We used poly batting instead of the correct silk, cost
      > being a factor. I understand that silk batting clings to the inside
      > of the main fabric, allowing very little shifting.
      > Westerners often refer to sashiko embroidery as quilting, when in
      > fact it does not 'quilt' at all, though there is a surface
      > resemblance. (And I don't believe sashiko is period. I could be
      > wrong.)
      > Please correct me if I'm wrong here. As I said, I am no
      > seamstress.
      > -Ogami
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