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166[SCA-JML] Re: karaginu, other pretty toys

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  • Kass McGann
    Jan 18, 2000
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      Mind if I jump in here, Effy-chan?


      If I may help to answer your questions about the kariginu...

      > You probably don't need a kariginu. For samurai, that's the *most*
      > of formal wear, literally worn at court where royalty is around. In
      > with Japanese esthetics, I wouldn't recommend a kariginu for anyone
      > not a brass hat of some sort, and principality/kingdom officer, or a
      > Midrank's formal would be a hitatare/daimon (late period) or a suikan
      > (earlier period).

      This raises a few other questions in turn. First, if I were to
      make an appearance in a royal court, for instance, would a kariginu be
      a good thing or a bad thing? (By "appearance", I mean that I was
      actually asked to participate, either to recieve an award or to be part
      of the royal groupies.) In some of the notes in my book about the
      Tokugawa museum, it notes that in the Edo peiod, hitatare and
      naga-kamishimo were considered formal wear for the low and midrank
      samurai, while the kariginu was essentially only for those holding rank
      in the imperial court. Obviously, a naga-kamishimo is right out of the
      question. But, on the other hand, I seem to recall that hitatare was
      considered sort of a day-to-day item of clothing for mid-high level
      If I were you, I would have a kariginu to wear for appearances in court. I
      just made one for my Master for him to wear when he attends Their Majesties.
      Of course it matters what period you are protraying and what rank you hold.
      Second, this particular book states quite plainly that certain
      colors, weaves, cuts of fabric, paterns, garments, etc. ad naseum, were
      reserved for certain ranks. Did this hold true in the Azouchi
      (spelling?) and Momoyama periods as well?
      Every period had it's own sumptuary laws, including Azuchi and Momoyama. I
      am at a loss, however, to tell you exactly what they are.

      Fujiwara no Aoi
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