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Re: [sawsmith] Ripping on the RAS

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  • windgooroo1@att.net
    A-men. Sent from Windows Mail From: Carl Finch Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎4‎:‎13‎ ‎PM To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com;
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 19, 2013
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      Sent from Windows Mail
      From: Carl Finch
      Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎4‎:‎13‎ ‎PM
      To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com; sawsmith@yahoogroups.com

      At 02:39 PM 6/19/2013, djwatts40 wrote:

      >I have been using a Saw Smith for over 30 years and found that
      >ripping can be done safely if you follow a few guidelines. At least
      >it works for me.
      >1. USE THE RIGHT BLADE!! NEVER use a blade with a positive hook
      >angle and that is good advice for all RAS cutting. It minimizes the
      >chance of "lift off". I use a blade with a minus 5 degree hook angle
      >for ripping. Mine is a Freud 8 3/4" blade which is very close to the
      >9" blades originally used on the Saw Smith.
      >2. Use a fence high enough to attach a block with a clamp and adjust
      >it so the board to be ripped will just pass under it. That is more
      >anti "lift off" protection.
      >3. Adjust the blade guard and anti kickback pawl as low as possible
      >and still have space for the pawl to operate. The blade guard is
      >strong enough to stall the motor - learned before I knew enough to
      >give this advice.
      >4. Make yourself a LONG push block and use it when you get close
      >enough to the end of the board you are ripping. The one I am
      >currently using is 16" long in front of a handle. That allows you to
      >push the piece being ripped past the saw blade while keeping your
      >parts that bleed well away from the blade.
      >5. Use an outfeed table or roller to keep the work piece from
      >tipping up at the infeed end.
      >Using these guidelines, I have never had a board try to come back at
      >me, but never stand behind one just the same!
      >Yeah, I know lots of RAS have blades with positive hook angles and
      >that is responsible for a lot of the horror stories. Stick to no
      >more than plus 5 degrees.

      Good list!

      I'd like to add to guideline 3: After lowering the guard as far as
      possible, set the pawl rod and TEST it by pushing the end of the
      workpiece under it an inch or so (motor off, of course), and then
      pulling it back to make sure that the pawl tips dig in and prevent
      you from withdrawing the piece. If set too low, the pawls won't dig
      in and can allow the piece to kick back, and if too high they may
      catch at first, but a hard pull may cause them to dig a bit, and then
      rotate under and free, losing their grip! The softness of the wood
      is a factor here, too. That's why this sort of test needs to made
      for each wood type.

      And to add to number 4: Keep out of the line of fire--do not stand
      directly behind the workpiece when pushing it through. Stand either
      to either side of the workpiece path.

      Carl Finch
      Medford, Oregon

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