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Re: [sawsmith] Ripping on the RAS

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  • windgooroo1@att.net
    I agree completely. I have a ShopSmith as well, which has many interchangeable bits and pieces, blades for instance. The inclination is to use blades from the
    Message 1 of 6 , Jun 19, 2013
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      I agree completely. I have a ShopSmith as well, which has many interchangeable bits and pieces, blades for instance. The inclination is to use blades from the SS table saw, since the arbors are the same, but you really have to be cautious when so doing. I almost never use the ShopSmith table saw either because it’s really a bugger to use a saw that requires moving the table up and down to adjust cuts instead of the blade. My “real” saw is a 1944 cast iron monster with lots of torque and even more stability - not perfect for doing lots of different widths, but excellent for cutting high footage. The SS is nice for doing fine detail work, but I wouldn’t dream of cutting anything big with it, but I’d do it before using the SawSmith, just the same. I’m trying to keep my fingers. 😊
       
      Sent from Windows Mail
       
      From: djwatts40
      Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎2‎:‎39‎ ‎PM
      To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
       
       

      I have been using a Saw Smith for over 30 years and found that ripping can be done safely if you follow a few guidelines. At least it works for me.

      1. USE THE RIGHT BLADE!! NEVER use a blade with a positive hook angle and that is good advice for all RAS cutting. It minimizes the chance of "lift off". I use a blade with a minus 5 degree hook angle for ripping. Mine is a Freud 8 3/4" blade which is very close to the 9" blades originally used on the Saw Smith.

      2. Use a fence high enough to attach a block with a clamp and adjust it so the board to be ripped will just pass under it. That is more anti "lift off" protection.

      3. Adjust the blade guard and anti kickback pawl as low as possible and still have space for the pawl to operate. The blade guard is strong enough to stall the motor - learned before I knew enough to give this advice.

      4. Make yourself a LONG push block and use it when you get close enough to the end of the board you are ripping. The one I am currently using is 16" long in front of a handle. That allows you to push the piece being ripped past the saw blade while keeping your parts that bleed well away from the blade.

      5. Use an outfeed table or roller to keep the work piece from tipping up at the infeed end.

      Using these guidelines, I have never had a board try to come back at me, but never stand behind one just the same!

      DON'T TRY TO RIP SHORT STUFF!!!

      Yeah, I know lots of RAS have blades with positive hook angles and that is responsible for a lot of the horror stories. Stick to no more than plus 5 degrees.

    • Carl Finch
      ... Good list! I d like to add to guideline 3: After lowering the guard as far as possible, set the pawl rod and TEST it by pushing the end of the workpiece
      Message 2 of 6 , Jun 19, 2013
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        At 02:39 PM 6/19/2013, djwatts40 wrote:
        >
        >
        >I have been using a Saw Smith for over 30 years and found that
        >ripping can be done safely if you follow a few guidelines. At least
        >it works for me.
        >
        >1. USE THE RIGHT BLADE!! NEVER use a blade with a positive hook
        >angle and that is good advice for all RAS cutting. It minimizes the
        >chance of "lift off". I use a blade with a minus 5 degree hook angle
        >for ripping. Mine is a Freud 8 3/4" blade which is very close to the
        >9" blades originally used on the Saw Smith.
        >
        >2. Use a fence high enough to attach a block with a clamp and adjust
        >it so the board to be ripped will just pass under it. That is more
        >anti "lift off" protection.
        >
        >3. Adjust the blade guard and anti kickback pawl as low as possible
        >and still have space for the pawl to operate. The blade guard is
        >strong enough to stall the motor - learned before I knew enough to
        >give this advice.
        >
        >4. Make yourself a LONG push block and use it when you get close
        >enough to the end of the board you are ripping. The one I am
        >currently using is 16" long in front of a handle. That allows you to
        >push the piece being ripped past the saw blade while keeping your
        >parts that bleed well away from the blade.
        >
        >5. Use an outfeed table or roller to keep the work piece from
        >tipping up at the infeed end.
        >
        >Using these guidelines, I have never had a board try to come back at
        >me, but never stand behind one just the same!
        >
        >DON'T TRY TO RIP SHORT STUFF!!!
        >
        >Yeah, I know lots of RAS have blades with positive hook angles and
        >that is responsible for a lot of the horror stories. Stick to no
        >more than plus 5 degrees.

        Good list!

        I'd like to add to guideline 3: After lowering the guard as far as
        possible, set the pawl rod and TEST it by pushing the end of the
        workpiece under it an inch or so (motor off, of course), and then
        pulling it back to make sure that the pawl tips dig in and prevent
        you from withdrawing the piece. If set too low, the pawls won't dig
        in and can allow the piece to kick back, and if too high they may
        catch at first, but a hard pull may cause them to dig a bit, and then
        rotate under and free, losing their grip! The softness of the wood
        is a factor here, too. That's why this sort of test needs to made
        for each wood type.

        And to add to number 4: Keep out of the line of fire--do not stand
        directly behind the workpiece when pushing it through. Stand either
        to either side of the workpiece path.

        Carl Finch
        Medford, Oregon
      • Van Alston
        No way I would rip on the sawsmith unless it was built in and had stable infeed and outfeed benches. My setup in Honduras is this way and I ve done plenty of
        Message 3 of 6 , Jun 19, 2013
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          No way I would rip on the sawsmith unless it was built in and had stable infeed and outfeed benches.  My setup in Honduras is this way and I've done plenty of rips. 

          -van



          On Jun 19, 2013, at 6:21 PM, windgooroo1@... wrote:

           

          I agree completely. I have a ShopSmith as well, which has many interchangeable bits and pieces, blades for instance. The inclination is to use blades from the SS table saw, since the arbors are the same, but you really have to be cautious when so doing. I almost never use the ShopSmith table saw either because it’s really a bugger to use a saw that requires moving the table up and down to adjust cuts instead of the blade. My “real” saw is a 1944 cast iron monster with lots of torque and even more stability - not perfect for doing lots of different widths, but excellent for cutting high footage. The SS is nice for doing fine detail work, but I wouldn’t dream of cutting anything big with it, but I’d do it before using the SawSmith, just the same. I’m trying to keep my fingers. 😊
           
          Sent from Windows Mail
           
          From: djwatts40
          Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎2‎:‎39‎ ‎PM
          To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
           
           

          I have been using a Saw Smith for over 30 years and found that ripping can be done safely if you follow a few guidelines. At least it works for me.

          1. USE THE RIGHT BLADE!! NEVER use a blade with a positive hook angle and that is good advice for all RAS cutting. It minimizes the chance of "lift off". I use a blade with a minus 5 degree hook angle for ripping. Mine is a Freud 8 3/4" blade which is very close to the 9" blades originally used on the Saw Smith.

          2. Use a fence high enough to attach a block with a clamp and adjust it so the board to be ripped will just pass under it. That is more anti "lift off" protection.

          3. Adjust the blade guard and anti kickback pawl as low as possible and still have space for the pawl to operate. The blade guard is strong enough to stall the motor - learned before I knew enough to give this advice.

          4. Make yourself a LONG push block and use it when you get close enough to the end of the board you are ripping. The one I am currently using is 16" long in front of a handle. That allows you to push the piece being ripped past the saw blade while keeping your parts that bleed well away from the blade.

          5. Use an outfeed table or roller to keep the work piece from tipping up at the infeed end.

          Using these guidelines, I have never had a board try to come back at me, but never stand behind one just the same!

          DON'T TRY TO RIP SHORT STUFF!!!

          Yeah, I know lots of RAS have blades with positive hook angles and that is responsible for a lot of the horror stories. Stick to no more than plus 5 degrees.

        • windgooroo1@att.net
          Really makes you wonder how and why they didn’t come up with an alternative ripping setup, doesn’t it? The tables are so critical on any kind of table saw,
          Message 4 of 6 , Jun 19, 2013
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            Really makes you wonder how and why they didn’t come up with an alternative ripping setup, doesn’t it? The tables are so critical on any kind of table saw, especially the outfeed.
             
            Sent from Windows Mail
             
            From: Van Alston
            Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎4‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
            To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
             
             

            No way I would rip on the sawsmith unless it was built in and had stable infeed and outfeed benches.  My setup in Honduras is this way and I've done plenty of rips. 

            -van



            On Jun 19, 2013, at 6:21 PM, windgooroo1@... wrote:

             

             

            I agree completely. I have a ShopSmith as well, which has many interchangeable bits and pieces, blades for instance. The inclination is to use blades from the SS table saw, since the arbors are the same, but you really have to be cautious when so doing. I almost never use the ShopSmith table saw either because it’s really a bugger to use a saw that requires moving the table up and down to adjust cuts instead of the blade. My “real” saw is a 1944 cast iron monster with lots of torque and even more stability - not perfect for doing lots of different widths, but excellent for cutting high footage. The SS is nice for doing fine detail work, but I wouldn’t dream of cutting anything big with it, but I’d do it before using the SawSmith, just the same. I’m trying to keep my fingers. 😊
             
            Sent from Windows Mail
             
            From: djwatts40
            Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎2‎:‎39‎ ‎PM
            To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
             
             

            I have been using a Saw Smith for over 30 years and found that ripping can be done safely if you follow a few guidelines. At least it works for me.

            1. USE THE RIGHT BLADE!! NEVER use a blade with a positive hook angle and that is good advice for all RAS cutting. It minimizes the chance of "lift off". I use a blade with a minus 5 degree hook angle for ripping. Mine is a Freud 8 3/4" blade which is very close to the 9" blades originally used on the Saw Smith.

            2. Use a fence high enough to attach a block with a clamp and adjust it so the board to be ripped will just pass under it. That is more anti "lift off" protection.

            3. Adjust the blade guard and anti kickback pawl as low as possible and still have space for the pawl to operate. The blade guard is strong enough to stall the motor - learned before I knew enough to give this advice.

            4. Make yourself a LONG push block and use it when you get close enough to the end of the board you are ripping. The one I am currently using is 16" long in front of a handle. That allows you to push the piece being ripped past the saw blade while keeping your parts that bleed well away from the blade.

            5. Use an outfeed table or roller to keep the work piece from tipping up at the infeed end.

            Using these guidelines, I have never had a board try to come back at me, but never stand behind one just the same!

            DON'T TRY TO RIP SHORT STUFF!!!

            Yeah, I know lots of RAS have blades with positive hook angles and that is responsible for a lot of the horror stories. Stick to no more than plus 5 degrees.

             

             

             

          • windgooroo1@att.net
            A-men. Sent from Windows Mail From: Carl Finch Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎4‎:‎13‎ ‎PM To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com;
            Message 5 of 6 , Jun 19, 2013
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              A-men.
               
              Sent from Windows Mail
               
              From: Carl Finch
              Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎19‎, ‎2013 ‎4‎:‎13‎ ‎PM
              To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com; sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
               
               

              At 02:39 PM 6/19/2013, djwatts40 wrote:

              >
              >
              >I have been using a Saw Smith for over 30 years and found that
              >ripping can be done safely if you follow a few guidelines. At least
              >it works for me.
              >
              >1. USE THE RIGHT BLADE!! NEVER use a blade with a positive hook
              >angle and that is good advice for all RAS cutting. It minimizes the
              >chance of "lift off". I use a blade with a minus 5 degree hook angle
              >for ripping. Mine is a Freud 8 3/4" blade which is very close to the
              >9" blades originally used on the Saw Smith.
              >
              >2. Use a fence high enough to attach a block with a clamp and adjust
              >it so the board to be ripped will just pass under it. That is more
              >anti "lift off" protection.
              >
              >3. Adjust the blade guard and anti kickback pawl as low as possible
              >and still have space for the pawl to operate. The blade guard is
              >strong enough to stall the motor - learned before I knew enough to
              >give this advice.
              >
              >4. Make yourself a LONG push block and use it when you get close
              >enough to the end of the board you are ripping. The one I am
              >currently using is 16" long in front of a handle. That allows you to
              >push the piece being ripped past the saw blade while keeping your
              >parts that bleed well away from the blade.
              >
              >5. Use an outfeed table or roller to keep the work piece from
              >tipping up at the infeed end.
              >
              >Using these guidelines, I have never had a board try to come back at
              >me, but never stand behind one just the same!
              >
              >DON'T TRY TO RIP SHORT STUFF!!!
              >
              >Yeah, I know lots of RAS have blades with positive hook angles and
              >that is responsible for a lot of the horror stories. Stick to no
              >more than plus 5 degrees.

              Good list!

              I'd like to add to guideline 3: After lowering the guard as far as
              possible, set the pawl rod and TEST it by pushing the end of the
              workpiece under it an inch or so (motor off, of course), and then
              pulling it back to make sure that the pawl tips dig in and prevent
              you from withdrawing the piece. If set too low, the pawls won't dig
              in and can allow the piece to kick back, and if too high they may
              catch at first, but a hard pull may cause them to dig a bit, and then
              rotate under and free, losing their grip! The softness of the wood
              is a factor here, too. That's why this sort of test needs to made
              for each wood type.

              And to add to number 4: Keep out of the line of fire--do not stand
              directly behind the workpiece when pushing it through. Stand either
              to either side of the workpiece path.

              Carl Finch
              Medford, Oregon

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