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Re: link belt available, but..................

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  • don_liechty
    I have measured a belt Magna # 503 257. 5/8 wide , 14.5 in.outside diameter. It was an old belt and badly worn. As such the new OD may have been less than
    Message 1 of 40 , Jun 20, 2012
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      I have measured a belt Magna # 503 257. 5/8" wide , 14.5 in.outside diameter. It was an old belt and badly worn. As such the new OD may have been less than 14.5 in.
      --- In sawsmith@yahoogroups.com, RedfieldRH@... wrote:
      >
      >
      > Wow, this issue is tougher than the Left Hand Nut one. At least we can make those!
      >
      > I dug deeper into several resources, including the amazing McMaster-Carr site. The Grainger site was a hopless mess.
      >
      > They have a comprehensive page on belts but the perfect answer is still illusive
      > http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=i27xwf
      >
      > They list special belts for variable speed pulleys but all are probably too long (not at home to measure). If someone could measure the exact outer length that would be helpful
      > http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=i27zow
      >
      > I believe the originals were "cogged belts" (notched on the inside but again the shortest is a 23" outer circle!
      > http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=i27zzn
      >
      > The closest to an answer (other than link belts) appears to be the type of belt I remember using when I first got my saw (probably 20+ years ago) and I remember finding a local source. This is the neoprene belting that can be cut and fused to any length. MC sells it by the inch in both raw and welded lengths. If we did acquire one that tested out well this could be a key resource for the group. I recall it working well but don't know why I eventually switched.
      > http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=i280oc
      >
      > http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=i281dr
      >
      > http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=i281lp
      >
      > Hope to get to my saw this weekend to measure, test, document how many links, etc.
      >
      > Rick
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: shempthedog <johnscomputerrescue@...>
      > To: sawsmith <sawsmith@yahoogroups.com>
      > Sent: Tue, Jun 19, 2012 6:25 pm
      > Subject: [sawsmith] link belt available, but..................
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > I got of hole of a local person who sells Nu-T-Link which Rick used.
      >
      > they only sell in like 15 foot length, the price was about $287.00, so I thanked him for his time and will continue the search.
      >
      > --- In sawsmith@yahoogroups.com, Wayne Underwood <ssgrock303@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Has anybody tried Certified Slings and Supply in Cassleberry FL (north of Orlando)? Years ago when I lived near there, I know I got a leather belt for my father's lathe there and I believe he got a belt for his Sawsmith there also (I still have the tool and the belt looks new still).
      > >
      > > Wayne
      > > now in Birmingham AL
      > >
      > >
      > > ________________________________
      > > From: "RedfieldRH@" <RedfieldRH@>
      > > To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
      > > Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2012 8:34 PM
      > > Subject: Re: [sawsmith] Re: blade stopping--lastest update
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Good advice but I have to say my link belt has worked fine for me for many years now. I agree about speeds not matching (like wrong size tires on cars causing errors in the speedometer) but in woodworking I don't really go by exact rpm but how the cutter is doing for the load, wood thickness and hardness, etc. I'm no pro but that is just my best advice. In the metal shop there are so many charts on feeds and speeds for diameter, cut depth, metal alloy, cutter type and material and it is so confusing I could never master them correctly. In metal working there is the "tan chip" method. If the metal chips are turning blue you have to back off on depth of cut, rpm, or feed rate to get a tan chip (in general steel alloys). Or I just feed until the lathe is working fully without overload, and the chips are curling off nicely. I kind of carry that thought over to woodworking.
      > >
      > > People are even carrying over use of carbide profile router wood bits into milling machines now with real success. You have to feed slow and careful while running a high bit speed. However the crossover gets a little ridiculous with the business of selling machinist measuring tooling (height gauges, dial gauges) increasingly in the woodworking market (see Incra) as measuring to thousandths in woodworking is meaningless.
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: djwatts40 <djwatts9@>
      > > To: sawsmith <sawsmith@yahoogroups.com>
      > > Sent: Sat, Jun 16, 2012 7:40 pm
      > > Subject: [sawsmith] Re: blade stopping--lastest update
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > You may never get satisfactory results with that link belt. You will always have a belt that is either too long or too short and probably either too wide or too narrow to boot. If the belt isn't right the speeds won't match what they are supposed to be according to the speed selection dial; how close they will be depends on how close the belt dimensions are to the correct belt. If you have your old belt try going to a business that deals with power transmission and see if they can match it up from their catalogs; those catalogs list thousands of belts.
      > >
      > > If you shut your saw down and it won't restart it is probably due to too much tension causing an overload. Try turning the speed selector to the slowest setting BEFORE shutting the saw off. That minimizes the load on the motor making for easier starting - good practice all the time and especially in cold weather. You can change the speed dial setting without the motor running if you put some torque on the speed selection dial and turn the saw blade by hand CAREFULLY. It takes a bit of time, but it works.
      > >
      > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, "shempthedog" <johnscomputerrescue@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > my homemade pulley puller worked with some effort. but that is about all that worked.
      > > >
      > > > put the link belt on both ways (inside out and right side out). Inside out worked but when I put my bearing cover on the links made it to stug.
      > > >
      > > > Try less links, more links nothings keeps the belt down deep enough.
      > > >
      > > > what I mean is: I use the gear puller and get the belt down deep on the top pulley. Start it, all good, except the belt raises to the top and then it's too tight to start up again.
      > > >
      > > > I am so tired of this.
      > > > tomorrow I am trying a bicycle tube
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, RedfieldRH@ wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > One way around puller jaws sliding off of a slanted surface is to lock the jaws from spreading. A hose clamp over the outside can do this, or even wire tied around.
      > > > >
      > > > > If I had to make something I would probably use some stiff thin material (1/4 multiply plywood, hardwood, aluminum plate) drill a hole slightly smaller in diameter of the OD of the pulley flange with a hole saw, split into two halves, and rig bolts to clamp the two halves to the inside of the pulley flange to a block of hardwood on the outside. A large bolt then threaded through from the outside would provide the axial force needed.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > -----Original Message-----
      > > > > From: Matthew Tritt <windgooroo1@>
      > > > > To: sawsmith <mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com>;
      > > > > Sent: Sat, Jun 16, 2012 1:38 pm
      > > > > Subject: Re: [sawsmith] Re: blade stopping--new info
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Come to think of it, I might have used a battery cable end puller that was a little bent at the ends to do this. The angle of the inside of the sheave makes it pretty near impossible to use a conventional puller. The instruction manual seems quite vague on this subject.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > From: "RedfieldRH@" <RedfieldRH@>
      > > > > To: mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com
      > > > > Sent: Sat, June 16, 2012 11:19:32 AM
      > > > > Subject: Re: [sawsmith] Re: blade stopping--new info
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > I haven't had mine apart for years but I would guess that a gear puller might help hold the pulley apart. Sometimes they can be borrowed or rented from auto parts stores. One could also try to rig one up by using a piece of hard wood with two carriage bolts threaded through the wood to grab the inside edges of the pulley. A bolt from outside in the middle would push against the arbor and pull the pulley flange out. I am just making this up in my mind as approaches I might try in a similar situation but if I get a chance I will pull my cover and see how this might be done. Wish I could be there to help!
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Rick
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > -----Original Message-----
      > > > > From: shempthedog <johnscomputerrescue@>
      > > > > To: sawsmith <mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com>;
      > > > > Sent: Sat, Jun 16, 2012 11:18 am
      > > > > Subject: [sawsmith] Re: blade stopping--new info
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > having the set screw backed off a tiny bit, didn't help.
      > > > > when I tried to compress the spring it pulled the pulley out of alignment.
      > > > >
      > > > > going to eat some chocolate now and think
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, "shempthedog" <johnscomputerrescue@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I am so tired.
      > > > > > When I tighten the set screw good and tight on the upper shaft, I can't compress the spring, back it off ever so slightly and I can compress the spring.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > This is of course without the belt in the way.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Next attempt will be with belt on, set screw backed off a little and try to wedge the spring open.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > This must be why they stopped making them. Ha Ha
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, Matthew Tritt <windgooroo1@> wrote:
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > You might try using a large flat bladed screwdriver to pry it open from below. I
      > > > > > > think that's how I accomplished the same task - but it's been a while.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > ________________________________
      > > > > > > From: shempthedog <johnscomputerrescue@>
      > > > > > > To: mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com
      > > > > > > Sent: Sat, June 16, 2012 7:50:32 AM
      > > > > > > Subject: [sawsmith] Re: blade stopping--new info
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > update:
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > got the spring pulley back and moved it over the set screw flat on the arbor,
      > > > > > > got that set in place and lined up with the lower pulley.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > I have run out of strength. I can't pull the spring pulley back by hand any
      > > > > > > more. It's oiled and I can wedge it open with wood, but I can't keep it open.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > I put the belt on and it sits on top of the upper pulley so now there is NO way
      > > > > > > to grab the spring pulley back in order to drop the belt down to the bottom of
      > > > > > > the pully.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Can't permanently set the motor in place with the belt on top of the pulley,
      > > > > > > cause the motor doesn't lay flat this way.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, "shempthedog" <johnscomputerrescue@> wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > ok different blade didn't help, blade slow to turn when motor started, figured
      > > > > > > >I have to look elsewhere.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > couldn't figure out why belt cover wouldn't come off, duh, I forgot I put the
      > > > > > > >right nut on shaft.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > took off belt, v link type, very brittle for it's 45 minutes of running time,
      > > > > > > >cracking as I turn it inside out. so Huston was got a problem.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > looked at arbor shaft and saw that the set screw wasn't lined up with the flat
      > > > > > > >on the arbor and the set screw is raised up so the belt rides on it.
      > > > > > > > couldn't remove the set screw as the upper pully is laying on top of set screw,
      > > > > > > >have to figure out a way to keep the pully back in order to loosen the set screw
      > > > > > > >in properly align it on the shaft.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > PB blaster now soaking in.
      > > > > > > > pix here:
      > > > > > > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawsmith/photos/album/1267281201/pic/634014737/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
      > > > > > > >c
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, "shempthedog" <johnscomputerrescue@> wrote:
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > It looks good, when it's running.
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > I was watching close when I turned it off
      > > > > > > > > And the arbor ran and stop when the blade stopped
      > > > > > > > > So there was no extra spinning, like a loose blade would do.
      > > > > > > > > Tomorrow I'll change the blade, do some test cuts and report back
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, Matthew Tritt <windgooroo1@> wrote:
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > So, when you run the saw can you see if the arbor is turning when the blade
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > isn't?
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > Matt
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > ________________________________
      > > > > > > > > > From: shempthedog <johnscomputerrescue@>
      > > > > > > > > > To: mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com
      > > > > > > > > > Sent: Fri, June 15, 2012 4:12:40 PM
      > > > > > > > > > Subject: [sawsmith] Re: blade stopping
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > The blade is on REAL TIGHT-sorry, on the left side.
      > > > > > > > > > I don't think there is an edit button, if there is, somebody help me with
      > > > > > > >that.
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, "shempthedog" <johnscomputerrescue@>
      > > > > > > >wrote:
      > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > the blade is on real right, I checked that first.
      > > > > > > > > > > I am using it on the left side--5/8 hole. With a left nut (marked L)
      > > > > > > >probably
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >original on with a washer (cutout facing blade on both sides. I put
      > > > > > > >pictures
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >up. in my folder--farley--1,2,3,4,
      > > > > > > > > > > thanks
      > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > I should try another blade first before I tear things apart
      > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > --- In mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com, RedfieldRH@ wrote:
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > That sounds like a potentially dangerous situation. In the scenario
      > > > > > > >you
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >describe, if the motor is not stalling but the blade is, the blade is not
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >secured firmly to the arbor and is slipping badly. This can lead to some
      > > > > > > > > > >seriously unhappy things happening.
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > I don't remember if you have previously stated if you have the
      > > > > > > >specialized
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >SawSmith type large center hole blade and adapter adapter or are using
      > > > > > > >standard
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >5/8" ID table saw type blades. If the later, you should have two table saw
      > > > > > > >type
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >cupped washers on either side of the blade (they have some spring action
      > > > > > > >and
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >clamp firmly against the blade and prevent vibration). and the correct
      > > > > > > >nut,
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >tightened firmly. Are you running on the right or left side of the motor?
      > > > > > > >Do you
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >have a picture of your setup posted in albums? That would be helpful to
      > > > > > > > > > >troubleshoot your setup.
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > Rick
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message-----
      > > > > > > > > > > > From: shempthedog <johnscomputerrescue@>
      > > > > > > > > > > > To: sawsmith <mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com>;
      > > > > > > > > > > > Sent: Fri, Jun 15, 2012 4:42 pm
      > > > > > > > > > > > Subject: [sawsmith] blade stopping
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > is my belt slipping when I saw and the motor keeps going, but the blade
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >stops?
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > Is there an adjustment to tighten the belt. I can't take anymore links
      > > > > > > >out
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >of it, it will never fit.
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > the blade is cutting clean enough so I don't think it's a dull blade
      > > > > > > >and when
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >it happens and I push the blade towards the back, it starts going around
      > > > > > > >and
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >reving up faster
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > > > TIA
      > > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      >
    • Matthew Tritt
      Jeeze! That was supposed to have read good .  God thought is a little out there. This belt issue is really something, isn t it?
      Message 40 of 40 , Jun 22, 2012
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        Jeeze! That was supposed to have read "good".  God thought is a little out there.
         
        This belt issue is really something, isn't it?


        From: "grandpadon47@..." <grandpadon47@...>
        To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Fri, June 22, 2012 9:04:27 AM
        Subject: Re: [sawsmith] Re: link belt available, but..................

         

        It was just that a thought, When i needed a belt for my B&D sander I got one from a race car shop over the internet, same size fits a water pump. grandpadon in Missouri

        --- On Fri, 6/22/12, Matthew Tritt <windgooroo1@...> wrote:

        From: Matthew Tritt <windgooroo1@...>
        Subject: Re: [sawsmith] Re: link belt available, but..................
        To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Friday, June 22, 2012, 3:50 PM

         
        God thought, but vacuum cleaner belts are flat, not V belts - and they couldn't handle the torque.
         
        Matt


        From: "grandpadon47@..." <grandpadon47@...>
        To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Fri, June 22, 2012 6:52:49 AM
        Subject: Re: [sawsmith] Re: link belt available, but..................

         
        Has anyone tried a vacuum cleaner store? Our parts Lady at work was employeed at Oreilly Auto Parts. I told her about our delema with the belt. She made a call, like us the shortest they had was 22". Then she said they needed a special belt for their race car. Had to go to a vacuum cleaner store. Thought I would ask. grandpadon in Missouri

        --- On Fri, 6/22/12, RedfieldRH@... <RedfieldRH@...> wrote:

        From: RedfieldRH@... <RedfieldRH@...>
        Subject: Re: [sawsmith] Re: link belt available, but..................
        To: sawsmith@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Friday, June 22, 2012, 12:04 AM

         
        I have been continuing to try to source this belt. One belt company www.vbeltsupply.com did not have anything this short but directed me to this source who makes belts for scooters and provided metric equivalents to the dimensions provided.

        http://www.scooterbelt.com/
         
        5/8 = 15mm
        14.5 = 370

        I have a call in to their sales rep and we will see what happens.

        Somewhere out there in the Universe is a vast repository of perfect belts awaiting discovery...

        Rick




        -----Original Message-----
        From: shempthedog <johnscomputerrescue@...>
        To: sawsmith <sawsmith@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Wed, Jun 20, 2012 6:36 pm
        Subject: [sawsmith] Re: link belt available, but..................

         

        I have a link belt coming from a company that was willing to sell me 2 feet of it. I will let you all know when it comes and a little about it.

        farley

        --- In sawsmith@yahoogroups.com, "donrieg@..." <donrieg@...> wrote:
        >
        > Does that new belt have the designation such as 5L140 (5/8 in wide, 14 inches circumference) on it anywhere?
        >
        > Don Rieg
        >

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