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1662Re: [sawsmith] Re: Messed up my saw

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  • RedfieldRH@aol.com
    Oct 11, 2012
      Hopefully the relay situation helps. One absolutely essential tool for me for all electrical diagnosis is the DVOM or digital volt ohm meter. Harbor Freight has them for under $5 when on sale. I have about 6 of them. They are indispensable for diagnosis. On the Ohms or "beep" setting you can test the relay contacts (or any circuit) for continuity across the contacts. You can check motor windings for shorts, opens, etc. You can check to see if power is getting to the motor and trace it through the electrical path. You just have to be careful working with line voltage.

      You can also check if your car is charging, battery state of charge, check for burned out bulbs, etc. etc. Handy gizmo.

      If you do wind up taking it in it would be interesting to see if there is a newer motor or known replacement. That would be helpful to the group. I recently found a website that specializes only in replacement motors for kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans from the '50s & '60s. Saved having to tear the entire kitchen exhaust system out and replacing it.

      I always have toyed with the idea of researching a stronger motor. The original works well, but I like as much power as I can get.

      Keep 'er running and good luck!


      -----Original Message-----
      From: rberschau <rberschauer@...>
      To: sawsmith <sawsmith@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2012 7:39 pm
      Subject: [sawsmith] Re: Messed up my saw

      Thanks everyone, I will see if the relay is the issue this weekend when I have some time to do it safely...I will let you know the outcome. Worse case, I will take the motor to an electrical motor repair shop and see what they have to say (if I can't get it going myself).

      --- In sawsmith@yahoogroups.com, Carl Finch <barkingcoyote@...> wrote:
      > At 03:33 PM 10/9/2012, Robert Berschauer wrote:
      > >It did come from the motor...I popped the cap on the motor and see
      > >there is a relay and a motor starting capacitor in there...I am
      > >wondering if the relay made the sound...I don't see a way to open
      > >the relay to examine it...do they make replacements still that will
      > >work with that motor?
      > Here's an excerpt from a post of mine, addressing the repair of the
      > relay (since there seemed to be nothing available as a replacement back then):
      > At 12:16 PM 7/28/2004 -0700, I wrote:
      > Didn't have much luck searching for that 40 year old relay.
      > Then I noticed the slotted screw in the top of the case.
      > I'd been concentrating so much on the bottom of the case, where the all the
      > wire connectors are, that I'd never noticed that the darn thing could be
      > opened (and anyway, so much stuff is sealed for life nowadays).
      > Located my 'point' file (remember when cars had points?) and cleaned the
      > contacts.
      > But I discovered that the relay contacts are normally *closed*. They open
      > almost immediately when the saw is turned on. So apparently the capacitive
      > windings are active only for a fraction of a second, just enough to get the
      > armature turning. (If anyone can set me a bit straighter on this, I'd be
      > pleased to listen!)
      > Anyway, got my Sawsmith back!
      > ===============
      > --Carl
      > in Medford, Oregon
      > > I was also wondering if there was some king of fusable link
      > > in-line in the motor that would blow. I am too new with this saw
      > > to understand much about it.
      > >
      > >On Oct 07, 2012, at 02:55 PM, RedfieldRH@... wrote:
      > >
      > >>
      > >>
      > >>If your breaker did not trip, then the motor probably is not
      > >>shorted out (which would draw heavy current). Is the click
      > >>definitely in the motor? I know the original push button switches
      > >>can fail. Mine did this, where I had to stab the on button to get
      > >>the motor to stay on.
      > >>
      > >>I found that an easy replacement was to mount a low profile plastic
      > >>electrical box on the top arm over the push button switch and use a
      > >>paddle switch. I really like this arrangement and there are other
      > >>options mentioned in previous listings.
      > >>
      > >>If you are comfortable with electricity and can get to the motor
      > >>leads, you could rig up a safe, temporary power source to the motor
      > >>(cord with wire nuts, etc.) to test the motor directly. Only do
      > >>this if you are completely comfortable working with electricity.
      > >>
      > >>I don't believe there is a safety thermoswitch in these old motors
      > >>although I am not positive. Many more modern motors have a button
      > >>that pops out if they overheat.
      > >>
      > >>Hope this helps,
      > >>
      > >>Rick
      > >>
      > >>
      > >>
      > >>-----Original Message-----
      > >>From: rberschau <rberschauer@...>
      > >>To: sawsmith <sawsmith@yahoogroups.com>
      > >>Sent: Sun, Oct 7, 2012 4:13 pm
      > >>Subject: [sawsmith] Re: Messed up my saw
      > >>
      > >>
      > >>The click was in the saw motor, the house current is fine...no
      > >>breakers tossed.
      > >>
      > >>--- In <mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com>;sawsmith@yahoogroups.com,
      > >>"don_liechty" <3ddesign@> wrote:
      > >> >
      > >> > Check your fuse box.
      > >> >
      > >> > --- In
      > >> <mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com>;sawsmith@yahoogroups.com,
      > >> "rberschau" <rberschauer@> wrote:
      > >> > >
      > >> > > I was given a my 1960 shopsmith radial arm saw by a
      > >> relative...wasn't paying attention, bound the blade, heard a
      > >> "click"...now it is not working. No hum, just dead...any ideas on
      > >> what I can do (I do want to fix it. Any advice for the idiot is
      > >> welcome...lesson learned.
      > >> > >
      > >> >

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