1661Re: Messed up my saw
- Oct 11, 2012Thanks everyone, I will see if the relay is the issue this weekend when I have some time to do it safely...I will let you know the outcome. Worse case, I will take the motor to an electrical motor repair shop and see what they have to say (if I can't get it going myself).
--- In email@example.com, Carl Finch <barkingcoyote@...> wrote:
> At 03:33 PM 10/9/2012, Robert Berschauer wrote:
> >It did come from the motor...I popped the cap on the motor and see
> >there is a relay and a motor starting capacitor in there...I am
> >wondering if the relay made the sound...I don't see a way to open
> >the relay to examine it...do they make replacements still that will
> >work with that motor?
> Here's an excerpt from a post of mine, addressing the repair of the
> relay (since there seemed to be nothing available as a replacement back then):
> At 12:16 PM 7/28/2004 -0700, I wrote:
> Didn't have much luck searching for that 40 year old relay.
> Then I noticed the slotted screw in the top of the case.
> I'd been concentrating so much on the bottom of the case, where the all the
> wire connectors are, that I'd never noticed that the darn thing could be
> opened (and anyway, so much stuff is sealed for life nowadays).
> Located my 'point' file (remember when cars had points?) and cleaned the
> But I discovered that the relay contacts are normally *closed*. They open
> almost immediately when the saw is turned on. So apparently the capacitive
> windings are active only for a fraction of a second, just enough to get the
> armature turning. (If anyone can set me a bit straighter on this, I'd be
> pleased to listen!)
> Anyway, got my Sawsmith back!
> in Medford, Oregon
> > I was also wondering if there was some king of fusable link
> > in-line in the motor that would blow. I am too new with this saw
> > to understand much about it.
> >On Oct 07, 2012, at 02:55 PM, RedfieldRH@... wrote:
> >>If your breaker did not trip, then the motor probably is not
> >>shorted out (which would draw heavy current). Is the click
> >>definitely in the motor? I know the original push button switches
> >>can fail. Mine did this, where I had to stab the on button to get
> >>the motor to stay on.
> >>I found that an easy replacement was to mount a low profile plastic
> >>electrical box on the top arm over the push button switch and use a
> >>paddle switch. I really like this arrangement and there are other
> >>options mentioned in previous listings.
> >>If you are comfortable with electricity and can get to the motor
> >>leads, you could rig up a safe, temporary power source to the motor
> >>(cord with wire nuts, etc.) to test the motor directly. Only do
> >>this if you are completely comfortable working with electricity.
> >>I don't believe there is a safety thermoswitch in these old motors
> >>although I am not positive. Many more modern motors have a button
> >>that pops out if they overheat.
> >>Hope this helps,
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: rberschau <rberschauer@...>
> >>To: sawsmith <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> >>Sent: Sun, Oct 7, 2012 4:13 pm
> >>Subject: [sawsmith] Re: Messed up my saw
> >>The click was in the saw motor, the house current is fine...no
> >>breakers tossed.
> >>--- In <mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com>email@example.com,
> >>"don_liechty" <3ddesign@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Check your fuse box.
> >> >
> >> > --- In
> >> <mailto:sawsmith%40yahoogroups.com>firstname.lastname@example.org,
> >> "rberschau" <rberschauer@> wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > I was given a my 1960 shopsmith radial arm saw by a
> >> relative...wasn't paying attention, bound the blade, heard a
> >> "click"...now it is not working. No hum, just dead...any ideas on
> >> what I can do (I do want to fix it. Any advice for the idiot is
> >> welcome...lesson learned.
> >> > >
> >> >
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