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Re: [Enfield] splitting cases

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  • Tim
    Back firing can kill the oil pump drive in next to no time. When the motor backfires the direction of rotation of the pump drive shaft is reversed too, the
    Message 1 of 23 , Apr 1 1:09 AM
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      Back firing can kill the oil pump drive in next to no time. When the motor backfires the direction of rotation of the pump drive shaft is reversed too, the shaft is forced OUT and jams up against the return plunger assembly. Stripped worm drive...
      The effects are made worse if you have the High out-put oil pumps AND a wet sump.
      Replace both the oil pump shaft AND the worm nut.
      When you re assemble the engine, set the ignition timing with the head off, and the piston JUST reaching .031" BTDC (beg borrow or steal a dial indicator) and the spark plug firing. DOUBLE check the timing with both Pillar boths securley fastened.
      It is better to err on the retarded side than advanced.

      Tim
      N.Z.


      >
      > I don't know if this was a factor in the demise of the big end bush, but a
      > good third of my oil pump spindle gear teeth are nicely concave.
    • Tim
      You are on thin ice. If you have any choice take the piston, rings and Barrel to a machine shop and ask the nice man for assistance. 2 compression rings, any
      Message 2 of 23 , Apr 1 1:15 AM
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        You are on thin ice.
        If you have any choice take the piston, rings and Barrel to a machine shop and ask the nice man for assistance.
        2 compression rings, any writing to the top...
        1 Oil ring, can be three piece... Easy to break or distort.
        If end gaps are not correct varous gremlins WILL haunt you.
        If you dont know what you are doing, DONT do it, or you WILL have to take the barrel off again before you can down the next brew.
        ;-)

        Tim
        N.Z.


        --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, "glssgrg" <redhawk34@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > > I'm also scratching my head over the piston rings. Two of the four are
        > > marked with an N, which I assume faces up. Not sure which grooves receive which
        > > rings. There is also one sort of a ring that looks like it is made of
        > > corrugated coppery metal. Can't imagine what it is unless it is just packaging
        > > material of some sort. The piston has four rings and three grooves, and I
        > > noticed that the old one has a rings on the bottom of the skirt that looks like
        > > two rings.
      • ian scott
        I would second that. Also check the weight of the JP piston against your old piston . The one I fitted to my Ariel was vastly heavier and made the bike
        Message 3 of 23 , Apr 1 1:44 AM
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          I would second that.
          Also check the weight of the JP piston against your old piston . The one I fitted to my Ariel was vastly heavier and made the bike un-rideable until I lightened it to the same weight,
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Tim
          To: royalenfield@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 9:15 AM
          Subject: [Enfield] Re: splitting cases


          You are on thin ice.
          If you have any choice take the piston, rings and Barrel to a machine shop and ask the nice man for assistance.
          2 compression rings, any writing to the top...
          1 Oil ring, can be three piece... Easy to break or distort.
          If end gaps are not correct varous gremlins WILL haunt you.
          If you dont know what you are doing, DONT do it, or you WILL have to take the barrel off again before you can down the next brew.
          ;-)

          Tim
          N.Z.

          --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, "glssgrg" <redhawk34@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > > I'm also scratching my head over the piston rings. Two of the four are
          > > marked with an N, which I assume faces up. Not sure which grooves receive which
          > > rings. There is also one sort of a ring that looks like it is made of
          > > corrugated coppery metal. Can't imagine what it is unless it is just packaging
          > > material of some sort. The piston has four rings and three grooves, and I
          > > noticed that the old one has a rings on the bottom of the skirt that looks like
          > > two rings.




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        • ace.cafe
          FWIW, I think that the stock Bullet is best when the rpms are kept under 5000 rpm, and the sustained cruising speeds are kept to 55-60 mph. This is a measure
          Message 4 of 23 , Apr 1 6:01 AM
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            FWIW, I think that the stock Bullet is best when the rpms are kept under 5000 rpm, and the sustained cruising speeds are kept to 55-60 mph.

            This is a measure to keep stresses reasonable, so that the stock items do not get pushed to the breaking point as quickly.

            I think that a Bullet can be made to do alot more than that, but it requires some performance modifications which are sensible for coping with the higher stress of more rpms and power.

            The Hitchcock's Performance Crankshaft assembly with the Weslake-pattern steel rod, and oversize Alpha roller big-end, is a very well made piece of kit. It is brute strong, and made accurately, with top quality materials.
            If you use proper quality main bearings with this, then you are virtually assured of a "Bulletproof" bottom end, as long as the oiling system is kept in good service.

            My opinion is that the Bullet is a bike which will work under low-to-moderate duty use, and can provide a decent lifetime with that kind of use, as long as you don't get one that was really flawed during its construction.
            But performance modifications on the Bullet pretty much require a solid upgrade in the whole bottom end, if you plan to rev or use a heavier piston or high compression.

            That's really just part of the game. Stuff like this is common knowledge among the enthusiasts of almost any other brand of vehicle. When somebody is going to hot-rod their GM, Ford, or Mopar engine, they don't expect to keep their cast iron crankshaft and stock con-rods in there.

            But, for some reason, it seems that this is some kind of "sticking point" for Bullet owners. I really can't understand why. The Bullet is not "immune" to the problems of exceeding performance capabilities of the stock items, and in fact may be less forgiving of it, because of the spotty quality control. The Chevy builders need to do it, and so do the Bullet builders.

            Basically, I think it comes down to people thinking that the Bullet is a "budget bike", so they don't WANT to spend the money on the proper parts. But that doesn't change any of the facts.
            The facts are that when you push the engine over 5000 rpms, you are entering a "danger zone", and you don't know whether it will survive that or not. Maybe it will. Maybe it will survive 6000 rpms. For a while. And then, maybe not. Maybe one day you'll go up to that 6000 rpms that gave "no problem" yesterday, and today the engine blows. It's on(or past) the ragged edge there, so it needs to have the proper stuff in it, for dealing with it.

            That's all there is to it. You can't get around it. So, my advice is that if you are going to hot-rod the Bullet(beyond the simple intake and exhaust mods), then put the proper parts and machine work into the build, so that it can survive what you are going to do to it.
            It's the only sensible course of action. It's less expensive in the long run, because when you throw that stock rod thru the crankcase, and wipe out the crank, crankcase, con-rod, cylinder barrel, and piston, it will cost you more than if you had bought the proper parts in the beginning, and avoided the blow-up.

            I understand that people don't "want" to spend the money. But that is meaningless. It's a matter of what is required, and whether you "want to" or not, is not in the equation. I'm sure you don't "want" a blown-up motor either. And that's what you'll have if you don't build the bottom end correctly, and start revving it like a racing motor.

            There's thousands of blown-up Bullet motors over the years that will stand as testament to this.
            Do it right, or don't do it.

            My 2 cents.

            Ace
          • fiferwd@aol.com
            In a message dated 4/1/2009 4:16:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time, royalenfield@clear.net.nz writes: If you dont know what you are doing, DONT do it, or you WILL
            Message 5 of 23 , Apr 1 6:31 AM
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              In a message dated 4/1/2009 4:16:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
              royalenfield@... writes:

              If you dont know what you are doing, DONT do it, or you WILL have to take
              the barrel off again before you can down the next brew.
              ;-)


              Thanks for all the good advice, Tim.

              How did you know? I happen to have 6 gallons of extra bitter Pilsner behind
              my chair at this moment, scheduled for bottling today!
              Yrs,
              Bill
              **************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops – Starting at $399
              (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631247x1201390185/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubl
              eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540506%3B35046329%3Bx)


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • fiferwd@aol.com
              In a message dated 4/1/2009 9:02:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ace.cafe@yahoo.com writes: The Hitchcock s Performance Crankshaft assembly with the
              Message 6 of 23 , Apr 1 6:46 AM
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                In a message dated 4/1/2009 9:02:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
                ace.cafe@... writes:

                The Hitchcock's Performance Crankshaft assembly with the Weslake-pattern
                steel rod, and oversize Alpha roller big-end, is a very well made piece of kit.
                It is brute strong, and made accurately, with top quality materials.



                I have their latest catalogue in front of me, Ace. Is that the one on the
                middle of page 27 - part number 200160A?

                This project has taken so long so far, that I don't mind taking a little
                longer to get it right. I don't intend to do any racing, but I do want to be
                able to go fast enough to be safe on some of the roads I travel which includes
                occasional short stretches of Interstate. On the Bullet, I am a firm
                believer in staying to the right (USA riding) and keeping the speed reasonable.
                I'll save the fast riding for the bike that I don't own -- yet.
                Yrs,
                Bill
                **************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops – Starting at $399
                (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631247x1201390185/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubl
                eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540506%3B35046329%3Bx)


                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • ace.cafe
                Part # 20016A is the long stroke version, which will give you a displacement of 570cc with the 84mm piston, or 612cc with the 87mm piston. It is commonly
                Message 7 of 23 , Apr 1 8:12 AM
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                  Part # 20016A is the long stroke version, which will give you a displacement of 570cc with the 84mm piston, or 612cc with the 87mm piston. It is commonly referred to as the "612 crank" or "stroker crank".
                  Part # 200160 is the normal stroke version, which won't change your displacement, but will give much stronger bottom end for performance use.

                  Both of these crankshafts are essentially identical in construction, and are very very good items. It just depends on what stroke you want, as to which one you pick.

                  The long stroke version 200160A, will have higher piston speeds than the normal Bullet does, and this places higher stress at lower rpms, but it is a very strong crank and rod which can handle it.
                  It is a popular choice when upgrading to the Hitchcock's crank, because you'll get more power from the larger displacment. However, to keep up with the breathing requirements for the larger displacement, there must be some changes made to the top-end and cams as well, or else your engine will be "breathing limited" to a relatively lower rpm range.

                  In contrast, the standard stroke version 200160, will not provide a displacement increase, but will allow higher revving with your 500 or 535 piston setup. In theory, because of piston speed issues, the standard stroke crank should be capable of withstanding higher rpms before failure, than the stroker crank. Or, looking at it another way, it will have less stress on the system at the same rpms, than the stroker crank.
                  Also, you'll have a bit less power than the stroker crank will deliver, but theoretically you could make that up with higher rpms.

                  So, it comes down to what you want to do.
                  People are happy with both configurations.
                  If you want to keep your Bullet for the long term, and want to "wring out some power and speed" from time to time, this is the bottom end to buy. Whichever version that you prefer for your desired use. It is artwork in metal, and is strong as an ox. For the quality level that it exhibits, I think it is a bargain.

                  All in all, the stronger crank/rod/bearing is the way to go, and it will change the Bullet into a very reliable revver, as long as the rest of the parts are up to the task. Get the European main bearings along with it. Stock mains are crap.

                  Square up the bore to the rod centerline, so that the piston rides centered to the con-rod in the bore. Make sure you bore your barrel on torque-plates, for least distortion when it is torqued-down on the engine. A competent machine shop can do this(they will probably have to make the torque plates), and it is important for avoiding seizures and getting good ring sealing. Torque the barrel to proper head stud torque in the torque plates, and allow at to sit least 24 hours for it to "normalize" into shape before you bore or hone it. Use the same studs that you will use on the engine, as the studs for the torque plate work. Use a "plateau hone" to bring it to proper piston clearance for the piston that you install. It's a fussy procedure, but it is the correct way to do it, and will yield better ring sealing and more power and longevity.
                  Probably 99.9% of all Bullet pistons are running in distorted bores, and suffer from poor ring seal, because they are bored in their "un-torqued" state, and they change shape when they are torqued down. And that's IF they were even bored "round" or "centered" to begin with.

                  Ace



                  --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, fiferwd@... wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > In a message dated 4/1/2009 9:02:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
                  > ace.cafe@... writes:
                  >
                  > The Hitchcock's Performance Crankshaft assembly with the Weslake-pattern
                  > steel rod, and oversize Alpha roller big-end, is a very well made piece of kit.
                  > It is brute strong, and made accurately, with top quality materials.
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > I have their latest catalogue in front of me, Ace. Is that the one on the
                  > middle of page 27 - part number 200160A?
                  >
                  > This project has taken so long so far, that I don't mind taking a little
                  > longer to get it right. I don't intend to do any racing, but I do want to be
                  > able to go fast enough to be safe on some of the roads I travel which includes
                  > occasional short stretches of Interstate. On the Bullet, I am a firm
                  > believer in staying to the right (USA riding) and keeping the speed reasonable.
                  > I'll save the fast riding for the bike that I don't own -- yet.
                  > Yrs,
                  > Bill
                  > **************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops â€" Starting at $399
                  > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631247x1201390185/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubl
                  > eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540506%3B35046329%3Bx)
                  >
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                • Malcolm Fisher
                  ... We seem to be after the same thing from our Bullets Bill. Ive gone belt & braces in the spec of my engine, and got the stroker version of the Hitchcock
                  Message 8 of 23 , Apr 1 9:55 AM
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                    --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, fiferwd@... wrote:

                    > This project has taken so long so far, that I don't mind taking a little
                    > longer to get it right. I don't intend to do any racing, but I do want to be
                    > able to go fast enough to be safe on some of the roads I travel which includes
                    > occasional short stretches of Interstate. On the Bullet, I am a firm
                    > believer in staying to the right (USA riding) and keeping the speed reasonable.
                    > I'll save the fast riding for the bike that I don't own -- yet.
                    > Yrs,
                    > Bill


                    We seem to be after the same thing from our Bullets Bill. Ive gone "belt & braces" in the spec of my engine, and got the stroker version of the Hitchcock crank, the full kit.

                    I did consider just beefing up the bottom end of my bullet with the flywheels and mains. Then I reasoned what the hell and decided to go all in 612 kit 32mm carb, big valve head, with a fully rebuilt close ratio box 19t sprocket and a belt drive racing clutch! But softer cams for tractability.

                    I wont be bothering the top speed of this bike very often, and some will say thats a waste of a bike with it's rated performance. I admit though I cant wait to get it run in and give her a damned good thrashing to she what she'll do, and hear the exhaust note!

                    But, fundamentally Im after a bullet for all seasons, still the good old bull for doing what I love best, bimbling it about. But with real capability if need be and an engine safe at 70mph, I think the beefing up of the bottom end is, as Ace says, crucial.

                    Good Luck with yours!

                    Malc.
                  • abjlaw1
                    Masterful job, as usual with your descriptive writings, Ace. I am of course committed to my 350 cc AVLs, and can t foresee being able to afford more, nor want
                    Message 9 of 23 , Apr 1 11:07 AM
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                      Masterful job, as usual with your descriptive writings, Ace. I am of course committed to my 350 cc AVLs, and can't foresee being able to afford more, nor want to, but I feel after reading what you say, that nothing could be better than and iron engined 500 cc with the upgraded bottom end. It would remain traditional to R E yet have quite a bit of added security, especially if, as Tim has expressed, one also goes with a better piston and rod option. I would rarely need more than the 500 cc, knowing how I like to ride, but with the added revving ability, there would be somewhat more 'spunk' as well.

                      Good post,Ace!

                      Lawrence of Tonga


                      --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, "ace.cafe" <ace.cafe@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Part # 20016A is the long stroke version, which will give you a displacement of 570cc with the 84mm piston, or 612cc with the 87mm piston. It is commonly referred to as the "612 crank" or "stroker crank".
                      > Part # 200160 is the normal stroke version, which won't change your displacement, but will give much stronger bottom end for performance use.
                      >
                      > Both of these crankshafts are essentially identical in construction, and are very very good items. It just depends on what stroke you want, as to which one you pick.
                      >
                      > The long stroke version 200160A, will have higher piston speeds than the normal Bullet does, and this places higher stress at lower rpms, but it is a very strong crank and rod which can handle it.
                      > It is a popular choice when upgrading to the Hitchcock's crank, because you'll get more power from the larger displacment. However, to keep up with the breathing requirements for the larger displacement, there must be some changes made to the top-end and cams as well, or else your engine will be "breathing limited" to a relatively lower rpm range.
                      >
                      > In contrast, the standard stroke version 200160, will not provide a displacement increase, but will allow higher revving with your 500 or 535 piston setup. In theory, because of piston speed issues, the standard stroke crank should be capable of withstanding higher rpms before failure, than the stroker crank. Or, looking at it another way, it will have less stress on the system at the same rpms, than the stroker crank.
                      > Also, you'll have a bit less power than the stroker crank will deliver, but theoretically you could make that up with higher rpms.
                      >
                      > So, it comes down to what you want to do.
                      > People are happy with both configurations.
                      > If you want to keep your Bullet for the long term, and want to "wring out some power and speed" from time to time, this is the bottom end to buy. Whichever version that you prefer for your desired use. It is artwork in metal, and is strong as an ox. For the quality level that it exhibits, I think it is a bargain.
                      >
                      > All in all, the stronger crank/rod/bearing is the way to go, and it will change the Bullet into a very reliable revver, as long as the rest of the parts are up to the task. Get the European main bearings along with it. Stock mains are crap.
                      >
                      > Square up the bore to the rod centerline, so that the piston rides centered to the con-rod in the bore. Make sure you bore your barrel on torque-plates, for least distortion when it is torqued-down on the engine. A competent machine shop can do this(they will probably have to make the torque plates), and it is important for avoiding seizures and getting good ring sealing. Torque the barrel to proper head stud torque in the torque plates, and allow at to sit least 24 hours for it to "normalize" into shape before you bore or hone it. Use the same studs that you will use on the engine, as the studs for the torque plate work. Use a "plateau hone" to bring it to proper piston clearance for the piston that you install. It's a fussy procedure, but it is the correct way to do it, and will yield better ring sealing and more power and longevity.
                      > Probably 99.9% of all Bullet pistons are running in distorted bores, and suffer from poor ring seal, because they are bored in their "un-torqued" state, and they change shape when they are torqued down. And that's IF they were even bored "round" or "centered" to begin with.
                      >
                      > Ace
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, fiferwd@ wrote:
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > In a message dated 4/1/2009 9:02:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
                      > > ace.cafe@ writes:
                      > >
                      > > The Hitchcock's Performance Crankshaft assembly with the Weslake-pattern
                      > > steel rod, and oversize Alpha roller big-end, is a very well made piece of kit.
                      > > It is brute strong, and made accurately, with top quality materials.
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > I have their latest catalogue in front of me, Ace. Is that the one on the
                      > > middle of page 27 - part number 200160A?
                      > >
                      > > This project has taken so long so far, that I don't mind taking a little
                      > > longer to get it right. I don't intend to do any racing, but I do want to be
                      > > able to go fast enough to be safe on some of the roads I travel which includes
                      > > occasional short stretches of Interstate. On the Bullet, I am a firm
                      > > believer in staying to the right (USA riding) and keeping the speed reasonable.
                      > > I'll save the fast riding for the bike that I don't own -- yet.
                      > > Yrs,
                      > > Bill
                      > > **************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops â€" Starting at $399
                      > > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631247x1201390185/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubl
                      > > eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540506%3B35046329%3Bx)
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > >
                      >
                    • fiferwd@aol.com
                      In a message dated 4/1/2009 4:45:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ian.h.scott@btinternet.com writes: Also check the weight of the JP piston against your old
                      Message 10 of 23 , Apr 2 8:23 AM
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                        In a message dated 4/1/2009 4:45:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
                        ian.h.scott@... writes:

                        Also check the weight of the JP piston against your old piston. The one I
                        fitted to my Ariel was vastly heavier and made the bike un-rideable until I
                        lightened it to the same weight


                        According to the box, "Actual Weight 422" which I assume is grams? Anyone
                        know what the weight of the original 500 piston is?

                        The box also tells me that the bore is 3.425, top ring 1.0mm
                        2nd ring 1.2mm and oil ring 2.8mm. The last would actually be both rings
                        and the spacer.
                        Bill
                        **************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops – Starting at $399
                        (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220433304x1201394525/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubl
                        eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540718%3B35046385%3Be)


                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • Malcolm Fisher
                        ... Anyone ... Hello Bill, Ive weighed mine for you, all in the OE piston is 555grams my new Accralite is 554, so not a lot of difference in this case. I dont
                        Message 11 of 23 , Apr 2 9:58 AM
                        • 0 Attachment
                          --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, fiferwd@... wrote:
                          Anyone
                          > know what the weight of the original 500 piston is?

                          > Bill



                          Hello Bill, Ive weighed mine for you, all in the OE piston is 555grams my new Accralite is 554, so not a lot of difference in this case. I dont have any data on the JP piston you have there

                          And, thank god, Im actually fitting the damned piston this weekend!

                          Malc.
                        • fiferwd@aol.com
                          In a message dated 4/2/2009 12:59:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, malfisher@hotmail.com writes: Hello Bill, Ive weighed mine for you, all in the OE piston is
                          Message 12 of 23 , Apr 2 12:24 PM
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                            In a message dated 4/2/2009 12:59:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
                            malfisher@... writes:

                            Hello Bill, Ive weighed mine for you, all in the OE piston is 555grams my
                            new Accralite is 554, so not a lot of difference in this case. I dont have any
                            data on the JP piston you have there

                            And, thank god, Im actually fitting the damned piston this weekend!

                            Malc.



                            Hey, that's cool! Congratulations!

                            Thanks for the info. It looks like the CMW 535 kit is pretty well thought
                            out then. I'm about to do the propane sizzle thing on my case, now that
                            everything is stripped down. I am sitting on the fence as to whether to exchange
                            my blue printed crank for the performance model, but I am inclined to go with
                            Ace's recommendation that the stronger one can make the bottom end the better.

                            The weather here, though a bit rainy, is really putting the pressure on me
                            to get this finished up. I like riding year round, but Spring is really
                            calling to me.

                            Bill
                            **************New Low Prices on Dell Laptops – Starting at $399
                            (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220433304x1201394525/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubl
                            eclick.net%2Fclk%3B213540718%3B35046385%3Be)


                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • Malcolm Fisher
                            ... Bill, I dont say this just because Ive spent a packet on these flywheels, but I really think that as long as you can afford it and have the inclination, do
                            Message 13 of 23 , Apr 2 1:46 PM
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                              --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, fiferwd@... wrote:

                              > Hey, that's cool! Congratulations!
                              >
                              > Thanks for the info. It looks like the CMW 535 kit is pretty well thought
                              > out then. I'm about to do the propane sizzle thing on my case, now that
                              > everything is stripped down. I am sitting on the fence as to whether to exchange
                              > my blue printed crank for the performance model, but I am inclined to go with
                              > Ace's recommendation that the stronger one can make the bottom end the better.
                              >
                              > The weather here, though a bit rainy, is really putting the pressure on me
                              > to get this finished up. I like riding year round, but Spring is really
                              > calling to me.
                              >
                              > Bill


                              Bill, I dont say this just because Ive spent a packet on these flywheels, but I really think that as long as you can afford it and have the inclination, do it. I make jokes about my old flywheels as a backup, but seriously I dont expect this Hitchcock flywheels to break, theyre a real work of art.

                              A friend of mine has the 612, but with stock head, cams and 30mm carb. He just basically did the flywheels barrel & piston. But he reports a good improvement, also, it'd take a hell of a lot to throw that rod without the extra revs, a stock motor might pull 6000 if your lucky?

                              I dont think a stock set up could hit the 7000 plus rpm, and apparently the Hitchcock flywheels are good for that. Ace, or Cjay, or someone else may well put me right on this, as I aint studied the specs as stingently as some.

                              Ah yes, spring is in the air and me bikes still in bits but slowly taking shape!

                              Malc.
                            • fiferwd@aol.com
                              In a message dated 4/2/2009 4:46:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, malfisher@hotmail.com writes: Bill, I dont say this just because Ive spent a packet on these
                              Message 14 of 23 , Apr 3 10:21 AM
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                                In a message dated 4/2/2009 4:46:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
                                malfisher@... writes:

                                Bill, I dont say this just because Ive spent a packet on these flywheels,
                                but I really think that as long as you can afford it and have the inclination,
                                do it. I make jokes about my old flywheels as a backup, but seriously I dont
                                expect this Hitchcock flywheels to break, theyre a real work of art.



                                ***********************

                                I'm sold! I just placed my order, and got a return authorization on the
                                blue print crank. The return looks pretty good, actually, but bomb proof is
                                what I am looking for.

                                SA (Spousal Authorization) wasn't too difficult. I just put on a long face
                                and said, "I'm afraid I'm going to have to buy that Bonneville as a back up
                                for the Bullet. It's a shame, but I think the $8,000 cost is probably better
                                insurance against future breakdown then the 1,200 that a performance crank
                                would cost. What do you think, honey?"

                                I don't think this would work more than once, though.
                                Yrs,
                                Bill
                                **************Eat Great & Lose Weight FASTER! Start the South Beach Diet
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                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              • Malcolm Fisher
                                ... Thats great Bill, and Im sure youre right about the ruse not working twice! ;) So, I will be building my engine over the next 2 days, wish me luck! I ll
                                Message 15 of 23 , Apr 3 3:29 PM
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                                  --- In royalenfield@yahoogroups.com, fiferwd@... wrote:
                                  > I'm sold! I just placed my order, and got a return authorization on the
                                  > blue print crank
                                  > Yrs,
                                  > Bill

                                  Thats great Bill, and Im sure youre right about the ruse not working twice! ;) So, I will be building my engine over the next 2 days, wish me luck! I'll post a few pics if I remember to take em!

                                  Malc.
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