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[Enfield] New guy

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  • drmbmw@hotmail.com
    Hi, I am about to buy a new Enfield, I have been riding for 25 years, and do all of my own wrenching. I want a Enfield for lazy sunday rides on secondary
    Message 1 of 7 , May 31, 1999
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      Hi, I am about to buy a new Enfield, I have been riding for 25 years, and do all of my own wrenching. I want a Enfield for lazy sunday rides on secondary roads, speed is not an issue. Do I want a 350 or 500? which is the most reliable motor? which front sprocket should I change to for lower RPM on either bike? Thanks for any help you can give me.


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    • JanAke Lang
      Hi New Guy ! Go for it, it s a good buy if your handy and settle for 50-s technology and performance. It s a people magnet, you ll never have a dull moment in
      Message 2 of 7 , Jun 1, 1999
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        Hi "New Guy"!

        Go for it, it's a good buy if your handy and settle for 50-s technology and
        performance. It's a people magnet, you'll never have a dull moment in
        public anymore when your on the bike!

        OK, here goes; (you asked for it...)

        My personal feeling is that the 350cc is the better motorcycle, all in all,
        but outside of India it's easier to get the parts and service for the
        500cc, so usually most people go for the 500cc in "the West", there's also
        a brand new 535cc out just now (just a slightly bigger bore of the
        cylinderblock). And a promissed 625cc, 5 gear, but not yet seen.

        Generally the "traditional" and standard Indian gear/brake configuration is
        to be prefered, i e gear on the right, brake on the left. Because you avoid
        the linkage and slack of the "reversed" or "export" set.

        I drive all my four 500cc bikes with 19 teeth frontsprocket, standard is
        17. I'm very happy with that, enough power and easy revs in the speeds I
        drive, 70-90km/h. On a 350cc you should try for 18 teeth since the standard
        here is 16. If you want the extreme, go for 20 teeth but this will only
        work on the ones that have the gearshift lever on the right side
        (traditional britt-bike configuration) and the chain might be too short if
        it's new even for the 19 teeth. When "Broken in",19 will slip right on "as
        is", and you'll have the power to support it then.

        Most people seem to agree that the standard twoseat of the Bullet is very
        uncomfortable in the backseat so a lot of Bullet drivers change for a
        single seat and a "naked" rearfender/mudguard or a rack with or without a
        pillioncushon. (see my own bikes on the BULLETS MCC website)

        There is also another more elaborate way of changing the gear-ratio, by
        getting a larger primary drive engine sprocket AND change the final drive
        less, but that's a duplex sprocket in primary so it's more of a challange
        to find one.

        Eventually you will want to change the jetting of the carburettor for
        slightly larger, since the Bullet is always set too lean from the factory
        because of some absurd emissions regulations in some countries (my own for
        instance). 115 or even 120 main jet and maybe 90 pilot jet is a good start
        on a domestic Bullet.

        Chrome on the bikes can be less than durable if left to the elements, so
        polish it once very thoroughly, and AFTER washing the bike, spray
        metal/chromeparts with ordinary dieselfuel in a domestic hand-sprayer or
        insecticiede sprayer, wash off with warm water and it never looks bad or
        gets rusty! (even on the nipples of the wheels!) The diesel gives a thin
        coat of oil on the chrome that stays and protects. Great way to get grit
        and dirt off too, when used as a "soak" before washing! (and f-k the
        environmentalists, it's going back to nature where it came from!)

        Use good oil! Most recommend high quality singlegrade mineraloil
        (non-synthetic)SAE 50 or SAE 20/50 multigrade in the engine and lighter
        oil in the trans SAE 10/30 and heavy hypoid-oil SAE80/140 in the gearbox. I
        personally use the same SAE 50 oil in the engine AND the gearbox. Some use
        ATF in the trans, but it is not endorsed by REM.

        If you can use leaded petrol or add leadadditive to petrol of high grade.
        The "Use Leadfree Petrol" is just a fancy sales argument (even if the
        factory and dealers will say differently) and will most likely wreck your
        valves. There are many cases of this around...

        The tank will be rusty inside, guarenteed, when you get the bike so get a
        very good petrol filter!! Or get it "lined" with some sealing formula from
        a bikeshop (after cleaning out all rust thoroughly).

        Always carry a spare sparkplug when driving or get a very good one, I use
        NGK BP6ET or BP7ET multi-electrode (4) plugs, no adjusting and they work
        perfectly for a very long time!

        Before you drive any distance, check that every bolt on the bike is tight,
        because of the vibrations and sometimes sloppy assemblywork, even a new
        bike may have a few loose bolts!

        Do not make any alterations of the bike before the warranty is up! It will
        make it void!! Have the dealer make all adjustments under the warranty
        time, and get it all on paper! (there have been problems in the US....)

        Most importantly!!!!!
        Drive softly and slowly to "break in" the bike properly, i e drive at
        different revs but not too high or too low ones, change gears a lot, drive
        max 70km/h, NO highways! and check oil-levels and everything closly, use
        epecially the front brake a lot to "set" them. The normal break-in period
        is 3000km (4800miles), believe it! -Even if others (including the factory)
        will say differently!!! This effort will (as it always have) pay back in a
        reliable and good, solid bike for a long time ahead. -Drive it hard from
        day one and you will be "wrenching" more than driving, -forever!

        During "breaking-in" the bike will show different moods on different days
        and not run as smoothly or as fast as you would like, and the gear lever
        will usually be stiff and awkward, idling will be uneven and sudden engine
        stops at idle will be the norm, just as backfires when starting. All this
        will gardually change for the better as the bike clocks distance and time,
        adjusting will help some but not really much until after "break-in". The
        bike will probably earn/get it's own name in this time too!!

        This we have to live with, the bike was not made in "the land of the rising
        sun" or in the south of central europe. It's a time-machine straight from
        out of the 50-s, for good AND bad!

        Oh, and learn the procedure how to properly start the bike, if you don't
        know it already, check our website at the "Tech"-pages, if in doubt.

        Good Luck, and let us all know how you're coming along!

        Jan


        ___________________________
        Webmaster
        JanÅke Lang
        Bullets MCC
        Stockholm, Sweden.
        http://www.algonet.se/~curves/Bullet
        mailto:curves@...



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      • sgtbrown@lightstream.net
        Dear Jan and New Guy , Just to be annoying to one and all, a couple thoughts: Left Foot/Right Foot shift: Left foot shift stinks on ANY cycle. Riding old
        Message 3 of 7 , Jun 1, 1999
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          Dear Jan and "New Guy",

          Just to be annoying to one and all, a couple thoughts:

          Left Foot/Right Foot shift:
          Left foot shift stinks on ANY cycle. Riding old Brits since the 60's, I was going to change my Military back to right foot immediately until I found out that the Enfield shifter is still backwards from other Brit bikes because it is up for first and down for the other gears. Go from your Enfield to your Triumph or BSA and you're going to have trouble. Secondly, if New Guy is a Yank or Canuk every other bike over here since 1975 is left foot shift. Better off staying with one style of shifting AND BRAKING since, in a panic situation, you act by instinct, not by what style bike you're riding today. I still keep trying to shift the brake lever on the Enfield but, as I don't have any more old Brits, it's time to swallow my pride and convert.

          Big bore Enfields:
          Do you honestly think we'll ever see other Enfield models over here "across the pond" considering the US and Canadian Departments of Transportation?

          Seats:
          The factory seat for the Bullet might as well be made of steel - guaranteed to give you hemmoroids! Mine lasted one day after I bought the bike. I installed the Indian "Lycette-style" solo seat. Looks good on a Military (identical to style used on WWII Brit military bikes) and is comfortable but if I had a Standard or Deluxe, I'd go for the "dirt track style" solo seat and pillion. I think the Belgian website has a great photo of a red Deluxe with this setup. The Indian pillion that goes with my seat is not worth the money.

          Valves:
          They still haven't converted the valve seats?!?!?!?!?! For what its worth, I play with vintage VW's a bit also and "the GURU" over here, Gene Berg, (and MANY other sources) recommends a product called Marvel Mystery Oil. It is a "top oil" which is added to gas to lubricate the top end of an engine. (It's been around since the 1920's.) I have been using it in any engine that was made in the leaded gas era (old cars, old tractors, etc.) for 20 years with never a touch of a problem. Many so-called "lead additives" over here are suspect at best.

          Break-In:
          Jan, don't scare the poor guy! 3000 km converts to 1860 miles, not 4800! Miles are .62 times Km. Kilometers are 1.62 times miles. (Approximately)
          However, now I need some suggestions. I live in the country. When I pull out of my driveway I am on a state highway where the speed limit is 55 mph (90 kph) and most traffic is doing at least 60+ (100kph). The nearest road where the speed limit is lower is MANY MILES away. If you don't do close to the speed limit around here, you are "road kill"! (And things have come close. Being passed by semi trucks doing over 100 kph on a two lane road is no fun!) Keeping the bike under 70 kph (43 mph) is not an option. What I have tried to do is vary speeds as much as possible and just not keep it at any one speed for extended periods of time and, as soon as possible, get onto back roads where lower speeds are sufficient. Any comments/suggestions for both New Guy and this Old Coot?

          That ends today's sermon,
          Sarge





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        • JanAke Lang
          Sarge! Short of the obvious -move to another area with more back roads or get a Harley , -sorry no...! Ha ha... :-) I think you ll be alright, and your bike
          Message 4 of 7 , Jun 1, 1999
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            Sarge!

            Short of the obvious" -move to another area with more back roads or get a
            Harley", -sorry no...! Ha ha... :-)

            I think you'll be alright, and your bike too, but it's always a bonus to
            take it easy on a new bike...in general.

            When I was in the U S the last time I always reacted to the fact that
            everybody was driving there cars like whimps and at very low speeds, 30 or
            55mph or so... Do you live on the plains? (big flat country would do that
            to people...)

            I confused the translation, -of course you're right, 1 860miles for
            "break-in", sorry, I'm not used to measure things in parts of the body and
            stuff like that... I'm all metric!

            Jan

            ___________________________
            Webmaster
            JanÅke Lang
            Bullets MCC
            Stockholm, Sweden.
            http://www.algonet.se/~curves/Bullet
            mailto:curves@...



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          • drmbmw@hotmail.com
            wrote: Original Article: http://www.egroups.com/group/royalenfield/?start=537 ... IornButt Association. ...
            Message 5 of 7 , Jun 1, 1999
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              <v03130303b379a3c1981-@[195.163.243.21]> wrote:
              Original Article: http://www.egroups.com/group/royalenfield/?start=537
              > Sarge!
              >
              > Short of the obvious" -move to another area with more back roads or get a
              > Harley", -sorry no...! Ha ha... :-)
              >
              > I think you'll be alright, and your bike too, but it's always a bonus to
              > take it easy on a new bike...in general.
              >
              > When I was in the U S the last time I always reacted to the fact that
              > everybody was driving there cars like whimps and at very low speeds, 30 or
              > 55mph or so... Do you live on the plains? (big flat country would do that
              > to people...)
              >
              > I confused the translation, -of course you're right, 1 860miles for
              > "break-in", sorry, I'm not used to measure things in parts of the body and
              > stuff like that... I'm all metric!
              >
              > Jan
              > Thanks for all the info, I have owned and ridden BSA's, Nortons, Triumphs, Ducati's, Harleys, honda's, benelli's and a few others, My main ride is a BMW R80/RT. The Bullet looks like just the thing for a second fun bike, I love to tinker! Oh yeah I'm a yank. Dan, BMWMOA#74475 Airhead Beemer club#2267
              IornButt Association.
              > ___________________________
              > Webmaster
              > Jan�ke Lang
              > Bullets MCC
              > Stockholm, Sweden.
              > http://www.algonet.se/~curves/Bullet
              > mailto:curves@...
              >
              >
              >


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            • drmbmw@hotmail.com
              Thanks for all the information! I think I will have to go with a Classic 350, The closest dealer is 275 miles one way so it may be a while before I can go look
              Message 6 of 7 , Jun 1, 1999
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                Thanks for all the information! I think I will have to go with a Classic 350, The closest dealer is 275 miles one way so it may be a while before I can go look the bikes over. I'll let you know what happens, Thanks again!
                Dan


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              • Dan
                Hi, I m Dan. I m really interested in owning a 500 Bullet, as soon as I sell my 94 Ural tourist sidecar rig, I plan to buy a new classic model.
                Message 7 of 7 , Mar 12, 2000
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                  Hi, I'm Dan. I'm really interested in owning a 500 Bullet, as soon as I
                  sell my '94 Ural tourist sidecar rig, I plan to buy a new classic model.
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