Re: Oil fot 500ES
- Thanx Jan for hints, (and others)
Actually, I did everything you said. I drove a bike for a while
(5km) to warm the oil, I drained as much oil as possible (I didn't
remove timing chest, though).
I will replace spark plug, although, this one has only 150km. It is
original NGK BR8ES. Factory original was replaced because I found
out that sometimes it missed to produce a spark. I suspected problem
with high voltage circuit but it was OK. I must admit I never saw
such spark malnufaction before. I'm also thinking about changing
to "colder" type, since bike is riden very slowly and original spark
plug seems too cold (it is not cleaning itself properly).
What I really don't understand is, how excess oil level can foul
spark plug? Is piston oil ring designed so badly ?(OK, thats maybe a
bit strong word for a piece on machinery designed 60yrs. ago)
Anyway, it is a winter now. Just yesterday, I bought new rear view
mirrors, new horn (beautifully chromed) but I guess I will have to
wait for spring to do work.
P.S. BTW, I think that recommended 500km for first oil change is too
much. Although oil looked fine on indicator, when drained, it looked
dark as coal. It was factory filling. Now I regret that I didn't
change it when bike arrived.
P.S.S.Can someone explain in few words the term "wetsumping"? I have
an idea what that would be, just to check. (ah, my english!)
I'm sure you'll be happier with a 6 or 7 plug, do
try both! I use a 6 for puttering around town and
put a 7 in for long hard runs at higher speeds.
Simple trick and it works great! 8 is in my view
a w-a-a-a-y too cold plug and only gives you a
harder start (there is only one colder plug in
the scale 9, but hotter all the way down to 4,
but 5 to 8 is the only ones used in normal
applications). The Honda CB 750 and 500 uses 5 so
does many watercooled cars. 8 is for very hot
aircooled (twin) engines like Triumphs and
Nortons running at almost twice the revs we do on
Bullets and at much higher compression too.
Racing plugs really! Like the 9:s
"Wetsumping" is when there is a too big
(abnormal) amount of oil in the crankcase (from
leaks, bad evacuation etc) there should only be a
very small amount of oil that escapes from the
floating bush at the bigend and it should just
coat the inside of the crankcase and be drained
by the scavenger oilpump, 50 ml or so is normal
while driving. If you have too much oil in the
crank on start the backpressure in the crankcase
will be big enough to press some of the exess oil
past the rings, to be burnt up as white smoke in
the combustion, the rest will get out via the
crank ventpipe and onto the floor and rear chain,
left leg and rear rim. Eventually all the exess
oil WILL be evacuated and/or burnt off but at the
expense of the plug usually. Directly or after a
little while. Bullets are notorious "SparkPlug
Eaters", especially if they run lean (can happen
because of fuel blockage etc) is set up
incorrectly (timing /gaps of CB's and plug
/carb-adjustment /too hot or too cold plug) or
have this wetsumping problem described above.
The only thing that happens when you change oil
"too soon" is that you potentially waste money,
fresh oil is always better than old oil. If you
driev the bike only now and then you should still
change oil every season!!! To be on the safe
side. Milage for changes is important only if you
drive the bike every day. My old mech guru once
said; The cheapest and best mechanic you will
ever meet goes by the name of OIL, Fresh New OIL.
But never over HI on the stick, enough is enough!
Good Luck! Jan
CURVES & PIXELS
Phone: 08-662 16 17