- Hi Larry,
There are usually only a couple things that can go wrong with these (the Stokemonkey
uses exactly the same technologies that most hub motors use).
1. The battery is not producing enough juice. I assume you are using the standard NiMH
batteries? What is the voltage reading from your CycleAnalyst? The CA has no way of
reporting how much actual power remains in your batteries, though voltage will give some
hint. However, just because you've not used up many amp-hours yet, doesn't mean your
batteries actually got a complete charge. The symptoms you describe are similar to what
might happen if your cells never got charged (e.g. if your charger is broken). There is a
low-voltage cutoff in the controller that prevents you from using the power when the
voltage is too low. It will "turn off power" to the motor, until voltage recovers. Which
would lead to exactly the symptoms you describe, until ultimately the battery voltage goes
so low that the voltage no longer recovers. If this is what is happening, it is _very very
bad_ for your batteries - their lifespan will be significantly reduced. So, before attempting
to use it any more, please get a voltage reading from the CA to make sure this is not the
issue. It should be in the high 30s, not low 30s.
2. The controller. The controller converts the DC current from the battery into a phased
A/C that runs the motor (based on throttle input). Controllers will die from time to time,
though the symptoms are (in my experience) usually different than what you describe. A
dead controller usually will just result in complete lack of response, and/or "thumping" if
only one of the phases is blown. Sometimes fried FETs (or any short circuit) will result in a
symptom where any attempt to rotate the motor will meet with great resistance.
Occasionally a bad controller will exhibit the symptoms you describe in hot weather, as
internal parts overheat and it shuts itself down until it cools. But I have not seen that in
cold weather. Doesn't mean it cant happen.
3. The wiring - what you describe could be a case of a faulty connection somewhere, or a
problem with your throttle. The key is to first check that all connections are tight, and
nothing is corroded. If you are riding the bike in wet weather and salty roads, it is highly
recommended that you use dielectric grease for all contacts to inhibit water problems.
Anyway, if the flakiness of your system seems correlated to motion and/or bouncing of the
bike, then some kind of bad connection or contact is implied. The throttle itself can be
checked if you have a voltmeter handy, I can tell you how to do that.
4. The motor. These motors are very simple devices, there is very little that can go wrong.
The one occasional thing that goes bad are that the Hall sensors, which detect the position
of the motor to know which phase to fire. It is unlikely that is your problem, with such a
new unit. Usually, motor failures are physical in nature, and quite obvious as a result.
Well, I hope that helps. If you want more assistance, please drop me a line,
--- In email@example.com, "larryu81" <bruce_alan_wilson@...> wrote:
> I got my Stokemonkey installed a couple of weeks ago, and it has been
> great; however, today it died on me.
> According to the Cyleanalist, there's plenty of 'juice' in the
> battery, but the motor will go for a few seconds, then stop, go for a
> few seconds, and stop, and a couple of blocks from home it stopped
> doing even that.
> I've checked the connections, and they seem to be OK.
> Has anyone had anything like this happen?
> FWIW, it was much colder today (down around 30 degrees F) than it has
> been; could that be the problem? Except the machine was inside when I
> was at work and it should have warmed up.
- I'm going to order the Stokemonkey next week and once I get used to it I'm going to start investigating the solarfication. This week my thoughts are which battery and new handlebars. I have H bars on the dummy now and they won't accommodate the throttle and display.