Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [rootsradicals] Re: Replaced Wideloaders with Sideboards

Expand Messages
  • Devian Gilbert
    the edges look dangerous i d at least round them off i d really hate to accidently glance someone s ankle/shin/etc... it wouldn t take much... that is for
    Message 1 of 18 , Apr 27 4:43 PM
    • 0 Attachment
      the edges look dangerous
      i'd at least round them off

      i'd really hate to accidently glance someone's ankle/shin/etc...
      it wouldn't take much... that is for sure.

      my two cents

      peace...d

      "Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the human race." H.G. Wells


      On Apr 27, 2008, at 8:15 AM, Silivrenion wrote:

      Went out for a morning ride for breakfast, and took some pictures while I was out. Check them out to see how the project looks so far!

      http://picasaweb. google.com/ silivrenion/ BicyclePictures

      The bike's a KHS Westwood with custom 700c/disc brakes, rigid fork, and a mudflap attached to the rear for less-sloppy puddle riding.

      On Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 2:38 AM, tda0818 <tda0818@yahoo. com> wrote:

      Sounds like an interesting project.

      Any stain will bleed at least a little under the stencil. The wood
      fibers will draw it along them. Your best bet among stains is
      probably one of the gel stains. It won't run, obviously, during
      application, and gel stains tend not to penetrate as deeply into the
      wood, so you'll get less bleeding.

      I don't know what kind of wood you used, but assuming it's a soft wood
      like pine or spruce (or the ever popular "whitewood"), which don't
      take stain very evenly, a gel stain won't look as blotchy.

      -- urbino



      --- In rootsradicals@ yahoogroups. com, Silivrenion <silivrenion@ ...> wrote:
      >
      > So today my project was to replace the wideloader cloths with wooden
      parts
      > to increase durability and allow people to stand on them easier.
      They look
      > great, however I will have pictures and reply to this topic with them
      > tomorrow with the current look of the project.
      > 
      > The choice of wood was educated: greater than 6" wide and pressure
      treated.
      > Luckily I found a very large candidate for only $3.97 at HDepot.
      > 
      > Purchased various hardware, all stainless steel. I used a 1/2" piping
      > attachment fixture from plumbing as a grasp, and attached it
      together with
      > machine screws, and washers to protect the wood from being damaged.
      I ran
      > into a problem where the 1" screw lengths were not long enough, so I
      > upgraded to a 1-1/2" screw.
      > 
      > The project turned out OK with minor issues with fitting the 1/2" piping
      > fixtures to the wood and the bars. I used stainless steel screws,
      washers,
      > and locking nuts to get the wood attached to the frame. I have also
      added
      > extra reflectors on the edges of the boards, because it occurs to me
      that a
      > gigantic bike with wooden planks can be quite dangerous to people
      not paying
      > attention. I assume this is a big reason why they aren't produced:
      it's so
      > extremely dangerous to ride around with them on because you are just
      so big.
      > 
      > When mounted properly, they don't rattle at all like the footsies do!
      > 
      > Soon I'll attempt to do a paint/design job on the tops of the board.
      > Painting on a PT board will be tough as I don't want to prime with
      something
      > that will disturb the natural look of the wood. I am considering using
      > stenciled stain, but I'm wondering if it will run or splotch under the
      > stencil to be used.
      > 
      > More info and pics soon!
      > 
      > -- 
      > Steve Morley
      > http://silivrenion. com
      >




      -- 
      Steve Morley
      http://silivrenion. com


    • alexbknight
      I m experimenting with this stuff for logos etc: www.lazertran.com Alex
      Message 2 of 18 , Apr 28 1:29 AM
      • 0 Attachment
        I'm experimenting with this stuff for logos etc:

        www.lazertran.com

        Alex
      • Silivrenion
        I have a plan for the news few steps. I will be jigsawing the front outside corners of the platforms off and sanding them rounded. I will apply a clear
        Message 3 of 18 , Apr 28 7:22 AM
        • 0 Attachment
          I have a plan for the news few steps. I will be jigsawing the front outside corners of the platforms off and sanding them rounded. I will apply a clear polyurathane to the top and side surfaces (it's pressure treated wood, don't need to apply it there). I'll then have a friend do some flames on it. I'll also have him strip the snapdeck's paint off and put a nice stripe detailing on it!

          Will show pictures throughout!

          On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 4:29 AM, alexbknight <Alexbknight@...> wrote:

          I'm experimenting with this stuff for logos etc:

          www.lazertran.com

          Alex




          --
          Steve Morley
          http://silivrenion.com
        • kwikfile08
          Steve, I think your concept is good - But you may want to re-think the cut. Possibly cut them to match the shape of the WL s and drill small holes in the WL s
          Message 4 of 18 , Apr 28 10:18 PM
          • 0 Attachment
            Steve,

            I think your concept is good - But you may want to re-think the cut. Possibly cut them to
            match the shape of the WL's and drill small holes in the WL's themselves and secure with
            wood screws. This way the chance of getting your heel pinched as you hike-a-bike up
            steep terrain. Even with std WL's I have experienced "Heel Pinch" and Son of a %^$# it
            hurts! I know Ideas are like butts, every one has one. I just had to speak up only because
            your design can still be re-cut for this and look good. Like I said it is a great concept, It
            actually is inspiring me to try as well. Anyway - I said my piece, so I will shut up now.

            Carl


            --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Silivrenion <silivrenion@...> wrote:
            >
            > So today my project was to replace the wideloader cloths with wooden parts
            > to increase durability and allow people to stand on them easier. They look
            > great, however I will have pictures and reply to this topic with them
            > tomorrow with the current look of the project.
            >
            > The choice of wood was educated: greater than 6" wide and pressure treated.
            > Luckily I found a very large candidate for only $3.97 at HDepot.
            >
            > Purchased various hardware, all stainless steel. I used a 1/2" piping
            > attachment fixture from plumbing as a grasp, and attached it together with
            > machine screws, and washers to protect the wood from being damaged. I ran
            > into a problem where the 1" screw lengths were not long enough, so I
            > upgraded to a 1-1/2" screw.
            >
            > The project turned out OK with minor issues with fitting the 1/2" piping
            > fixtures to the wood and the bars. I used stainless steel screws, washers,
            > and locking nuts to get the wood attached to the frame. I have also added
            > extra reflectors on the edges of the boards, because it occurs to me that a
            > gigantic bike with wooden planks can be quite dangerous to people not paying
            > attention. I assume this is a big reason why they aren't produced: it's so
            > extremely dangerous to ride around with them on because you are just so big.
            >
            > When mounted properly, they don't rattle at all like the footsies do!
            >
            > Soon I'll attempt to do a paint/design job on the tops of the board.
            > Painting on a PT board will be tough as I don't want to prime with something
            > that will disturb the natural look of the wood. I am considering using
            > stenciled stain, but I'm wondering if it will run or splotch under the
            > stencil to be used.
            >
            > More info and pics soon!
            >
            > --
            > Steve Morley
            > http://silivrenion.com
            >
          • Silivrenion
            Thanks! I am definitely considering between many different ideas right now, so that helps a lot! ... -- Steve Morley http://silivrenion.com
            Message 5 of 18 , Apr 28 10:30 PM
            • 0 Attachment
              Thanks! I am definitely considering between many different ideas right now, so that helps a lot!

              On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 1:18 AM, kwikfile08 <kwikfile08@...> wrote:


              Steve,

              I think your concept is good - But you may want to re-think the cut. Possibly cut them to
              match the shape of the WL's and drill small holes in the WL's themselves and secure with
              wood screws. This way the chance of getting your heel pinched as you hike-a-bike up
              steep terrain. Even with std WL's I have experienced "Heel Pinch" and Son of a %^$# it
              hurts! I know Ideas are like butts, every one has one. I just had to speak up only because
              your design can still be re-cut for this and look good. Like I said it is a great concept, It
              actually is inspiring me to try as well. Anyway - I said my piece, so I will shut up now.

              Carl



              --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Silivrenion <silivrenion@...> wrote:
              >
              > So today my project was to replace the wideloader cloths with wooden parts
              > to increase durability and allow people to stand on them easier. They look
              > great, however I will have pictures and reply to this topic with them
              > tomorrow with the current look of the project.
              >
              > The choice of wood was educated: greater than 6" wide and pressure treated.
              > Luckily I found a very large candidate for only $3.97 at HDepot.
              >
              > Purchased various hardware, all stainless steel. I used a 1/2" piping
              > attachment fixture from plumbing as a grasp, and attached it together with
              > machine screws, and washers to protect the wood from being damaged. I ran
              > into a problem where the 1" screw lengths were not long enough, so I
              > upgraded to a 1-1/2" screw.
              >
              > The project turned out OK with minor issues with fitting the 1/2" piping
              > fixtures to the wood and the bars. I used stainless steel screws, washers,
              > and locking nuts to get the wood attached to the frame. I have also added
              > extra reflectors on the edges of the boards, because it occurs to me that a
              > gigantic bike with wooden planks can be quite dangerous to people not paying
              > attention. I assume this is a big reason why they aren't produced: it's so
              > extremely dangerous to ride around with them on because you are just so big.
              >
              > When mounted properly, they don't rattle at all like the footsies do!
              >
              > Soon I'll attempt to do a paint/design job on the tops of the board.
              > Painting on a PT board will be tough as I don't want to prime with something
              > that will disturb the natural look of the wood. I am considering using
              > stenciled stain, but I'm wondering if it will run or splotch under the
              > stencil to be used.
              >
              > More info and pics soon!
              >
              > --
              > Steve Morley
              > http://silivrenion.com
              >




              --
              Steve Morley
              http://silivrenion.com
            • Devian Gilbert
              if it where me... I d drill it full of holes, and insert brass ringlets into them... just like i did the snapdeck... what would be even better is maybe simply
              Message 6 of 18 , Apr 28 10:33 PM
              • 0 Attachment
                if it where me...
                I'd drill it full of holes, and insert brass ringlets into them...
                just like i did the snapdeck...
                what would be even better is maybe simply 2 old long board skateboards where used...

                maybe... ???

                its a good idea... I've thought about it a bunch too... but yet have come to commit to something like that.

                ironic, cuz i mostly run round with the WideLoaders on anyways... as it seems that I'm grabbing all kinds of funky things to haul around.

                the running board idea is great...
                every time i look at something like that... I think to myself.... "wow, imagine how much stuff you can tie to it... only if it had holes".

                heck...even nylon webbing would be good.  that stuff is crazy strong.

                peace...d


                "Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the human race." H.G. Wells


                On Apr 28, 2008, at 10:18 PM, kwikfile08 wrote:


                Steve,

                I think your concept is good - But you may want to re-think the cut. Possibly cut them to 
                match the shape of the WL's and drill small holes in the WL's themselves and secure with 
                wood screws. This way the chance of getting your heel pinched as you hike-a-bike up 
                steep terrain. Even with std WL's I have experienced "Heel Pinch" and Son of a %^$# it 
                hurts! I know Ideas are like butts, every one has one. I just had to speak up only because 
                your design can still be re-cut for this and look good. Like I said it is a great concept, It 
                actually is inspiring me to try as well. Anyway - I said my piece, so I will shut up now. 

                Carl

                --- In rootsradicals@ yahoogroups. com, Silivrenion <silivrenion@ ...> wrote:
                >
                > So today my project was to replace the wideloader cloths with wooden parts
                > to increase durability and allow people to stand on them easier. They look
                > great, however I will have pictures and reply to this topic with them
                > tomorrow with the current look of the project.
                > 
                > The choice of wood was educated: greater than 6" wide and pressure treated.
                > Luckily I found a very large candidate for only $3.97 at HDepot.
                > 
                > Purchased various hardware, all stainless steel. I used a 1/2" piping
                > attachment fixture from plumbing as a grasp, and attached it together with
                > machine screws, and washers to protect the wood from being damaged. I ran
                > into a problem where the 1" screw lengths were not long enough, so I
                > upgraded to a 1-1/2" screw.
                > 
                > The project turned out OK with minor issues with fitting the 1/2" piping
                > fixtures to the wood and the bars. I used stainless steel screws, washers,
                > and locking nuts to get the wood attached to the frame. I have also added
                > extra reflectors on the edges of the boards, because it occurs to me that a
                > gigantic bike with wooden planks can be quite dangerous to people not paying
                > attention. I assume this is a big reason why they aren't produced: it's so
                > extremely dangerous to ride around with them on because you are just so big.
                > 
                > When mounted properly, they don't rattle at all like the footsies do!
                > 
                > Soon I'll attempt to do a paint/design job on the tops of the board.
                > Painting on a PT board will be tough as I don't want to prime with something
                > that will disturb the natural look of the wood. I am considering using
                > stenciled stain, but I'm wondering if it will run or splotch under the
                > stencil to be used.
                > 
                > More info and pics soon!
                > 
                > -- 
                > Steve Morley
                > http://silivrenion. com
                >


              • tda0818
                You might want to wait a couple years before putting a coat of polyurethane (or anything else) on pressure-treated lumber. PTL sweats excess preservative
                Message 7 of 18 , Apr 28 10:39 PM
                • 0 Attachment
                  You might want to wait a couple years before putting a coat of
                  polyurethane (or anything else) on pressure-treated lumber. PTL
                  "sweats" excess preservative for the first couple of years, which
                  usually causes any kind of paint or finish to flake off.

                  That wouldn't be a huge deal for your project, since it wouldn't take
                  long to put a new coat on. Just something to think about.

                  -- urbino


                  --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Silivrenion <silivrenion@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > I have a plan for the news few steps. I will be jigsawing the front
                  outside
                  > corners of the platforms off and sanding them rounded. I will apply
                  a clear
                  > polyurathane to the top and side surfaces (it's pressure treated
                  wood, don't
                  > need to apply it there). I'll then have a friend do some flames on
                  it. I'll
                  > also have him strip the snapdeck's paint off and put a nice stripe
                  detailing
                  > on it!
                  >
                  > Will show pictures throughout!
                  >
                • murray
                  another idea for the melting pot... wouldn t it be nice if they could snap on and off like the snapdeck does?
                  Message 8 of 18 , Apr 29 2:11 AM
                  • 0 Attachment
                    another idea for the melting pot... wouldn't it be nice if they could
                    'snap' on and off like the snapdeck does?
                  • Silivrenion
                    They can t snap on and off because of the shape the wideloaders are in. There s no attachment force to be able to keep it on the frame, especially under load,
                    Message 9 of 18 , Apr 29 7:26 AM
                    • 0 Attachment
                      They can't snap on and off because of the shape the wideloaders are in. There's no attachment force to be able to keep it on the frame, especially under load, and I think it would come off easy.

                      Maybe I should weather the wood a while before messing with it...

                      On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 5:11 AM, murray <murrayneill@...> wrote:

                      another idea for the melting pot... wouldn't it be nice if they could
                      'snap' on and off like the snapdeck does?




                      --
                      Steve Morley
                      http://silivrenion.com
                    • Cara Lin Bridgman
                      Why not? If the snaps hook to the forward end and aft end of the wide loaders. Insert wide loaders into freeradical, then snap on the boards. You d need two
                      Message 10 of 18 , Apr 29 8:47 AM
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Why not? If the snaps hook to the forward end and aft end of the wide
                        loaders. Insert wide loaders into freeradical, then snap on the boards.
                        You'd need two hooks on each end, so the boards don't shift sideways
                        and pop out. The trick is to get the snaps in the right place.
                        Stepping on the board would loosen the connection, but the boards
                        shouldn't fall through the wide loaders if you have them long enough.

                        Silivrenion wrote:
                        > They can't snap on and off because of the shape the wideloaders are in.
                        > There's no attachment force to be able to keep it on the frame,
                        > especially under load, and I think it would come off easy.
                      • Silivrenion
                        It wouldn t be able to use the snapdeck fasteners.. it would need some other removable connectors, but only because the wideloader shape is not exactly
                        Message 11 of 18 , Apr 29 12:29 PM
                        • 0 Attachment
                          It wouldn't be able to use the snapdeck fasteners.. it would need some other removable connectors, but only because the wideloader shape is not exactly rectangular.. it's more trapezoidal, especially right after the bends in the tubing. I am afraid if you used snapdeck snaps that there would be no tensile pressure to keep the boards in place as there is with the freeradical frame tubings.

                          On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 11:47 AM, Cara Lin Bridgman <cara.lin@...> wrote:

                          Why not? If the snaps hook to the forward end and aft end of the wide
                          loaders. Insert wide loaders into freeradical, then snap on the boards.
                          You'd need two hooks on each end, so the boards don't shift sideways
                          and pop out. The trick is to get the snaps in the right place.
                          Stepping on the board would loosen the connection, but the boards
                          shouldn't fall through the wide loaders if you have them long enough.



                          Silivrenion wrote:
                          > They can't snap on and off because of the shape the wideloaders are in.
                          > There's no attachment force to be able to keep it on the frame,
                          > especially under load, and I think it would come off easy.




                          --
                          Steve Morley
                          http://silivrenion.com
                        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.