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Re: [rootsradicals] sloppy shifts

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  • liza mattana
    hey, so when you shift, it is exact and your chain stays in the right gear, but then it slips after riding for a little while? when you re carrying a heavy
    Message 1 of 8 , Nov 1, 2007
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      so when you shift, it is exact and your chain stays in the right gear, but then it slips after riding for a little while? when you're carrying a heavy load? when you're bearing down on it and trying to crank up a hill?

      i'm just trying to get a better picture of when it's happening. we have our x attached to a 1990 MB-2 with friction thumbshifters . our chain only skipped around a bit when we carried heavy loads and especially when we really torqued on it. my husband attributed it to frame flex. just another theory.


      On Nov 1, 2007 5:09 PM, Mark Garvey <lazybee45@...> wrote:

      Oh, another point, get friction shifters! I have NEVER had good luck
      with index shifters. which was part of the point I made in my last
      note. I love my friction shifters. yes, sometimes I have a little
      problem with the chain not quite in one gear or another, but when I
      have friction shifters, I can jiggle them to the right place. you can
      NOT do this with index shifters!


      On Nov 1, 2007 6:53 PM, David Chase <dr2chase@...> wrote:
      > It is possible that your indexed shifter is out of whack.
      > I am not 100% sure how to adjust a 7-speed shifter, but
      > for an 8 or 9, the rule is to shift so that the derailleur should
      > be on the second smallest cog, adjust the cable tension so
      > that it is just jumping at #3 from #2, then back off a little so
      > that it stays in #2 (but no more than necessary).
      > I do this, and check it after big temperature swings, and
      > I have had nothing but good shifts.
      > On 2007-11-01, at 4:29 PM, Todd Reed wrote:
      > > Howdy all,
      > >
      > > I don't know that this is a strictly Xtracycle related problem.
      > > There's probably lots on the list who would know how to fix this
      > > though. I've got a Bridgestone MB-1 frame with my Xtracycle on the
      > > rear. It's a nice solid retro Cro-Mo mtb frame with classic
      > > dimensions, or so I've been told. I've got a Shimano XT rear
      > > derailleur and Deore XT thumbshifters. My chain is slipping from
      > > gear to gear in back and it's become a source of great angst for me.
      > >
      > > I recently installed a new rear 7-speed cluster and Shimano chain
      > > set since the chain had stretched and the cogset was pretty old.
      > > The performance of this new setup leaves something to be desired.
      > > Nothing like a chain slipping from gear to gear after a shift to
      > > give you that uneasy feeling. I would guess the bike ship sold me
      > > some knock-off rear cog, but perhaps it also has to do with the
      > > long chain length with the Xtracycle.
      > >
      > > More than anything on a bike I really appreciate having a solid
      > > drive-train that's predictable and trouble-free. I'm wondering if
      > > anyone has any suggestions how I can achieve this on my bike.
      > >
      > > Thanks in advance for any tips.
      > >
      > > Todd
      > >
      > > __________________________________________________
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      Putting the fun in dysfunctional for over 50 years!

      Mark Garvey
      Cedar Rapids, Iowa free state!

      Check out the web site at:

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      liza mattana
      spokane, wa
    • Jeff Ong
      Well, since you ve got thumbshifters, I d first try switching to friction mode (the little lever on the side of the right shifter), which lets you trim cable
      Message 2 of 8 , Nov 2, 2007
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        Well, since you've got thumbshifters, I'd first try switching to
        friction mode (the little lever on the side of the right shifter),
        which lets you trim cable length continuously, rather than "clicking"
        into gear...

        Some other things to check would be:

        * tightness of rear cassette (or freewheel) -- sometimes you need to
        add a 1mm spacer to get the cassette to lock down tighly on the hub.
        If there is any play in the cassette, resolve that first. Especially
        since you just switched cassettes -- it's very common for them to
        have slightly different widths, so the locknut engages before the
        cassette is clamped down.

        * straightness of the derailleur hanger. On your steel bike (sweet
        frame, BTW!!!), it's integrated into the frame, but can still become
        bent slightly. Good shops will have a Park tool to check alignment,
        or you can roughly eyeball it.

        * make sure the chain doesn't have any protruding rivets along its
        length -- especially since you have two chains attached to each
        other. (and make sure they're the same type of chain, and that you
        don't have a length of old chain attached to some new chain with less

        * the Park tools site has pretty good tips for adjusting your rear
        derailleur -- I assume you've gone through and set the H and L screws
        and the B screw (to adjust the angle of the derailleur body), but it
        never hurts to start over and get everything dialled in properly.

        Jeff Ong, Managing Partner, Leadcleaner (http://www.leadcleaner.com)
        Web-based lead capture and qualification for direct marketing professionals.
        Contact: ong@... or 503.239.7264
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