Re: ya got a Tensioner in mind?
- I have tried a bunch of different tensioners with my Nuvinci. I don't have a kickback, so I can't say how I would accomodate it, but what I have now works very well.
On the older Nuvinci the vert. dropout kit has a no-turn plate that bolts to the der. hanger. If the new one still has this plate you may want to move the tensioner off of the dropout to facilitate easier roadside repairs. So, I cut a very short piece of rear axle, and loctited it into the hanger to index the no turn plate, and the lock nut is all that is needed to secure the plate. That way I don't need to unscrew the plate from the dropout when I remove the wheel. I made an idler pulley that is clamped to the front cross tube (where the wideloaders mount). This let's me adjust the tension on the chain as it wears, but otherwise it's a non-issue.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "phishead_g" <gussesg@...> wrote:
> so I had an xtracycle for years and loved it to death. I literary cracked the free-rad behind the dropout! so i got that welded and reinforced and than i snapped the fork inside the head tube, which flared out the head tube. so new donor bike. I wanted a frame that had a low stand over height but be up to the task of being strong enough to do the job. so i got just a radish front end! i intend on painting the whole thing my self (rattle can) and build a super smooth clean looking and trying to be somewhat cost conscious so i got a nuvinci n360 hub with wheel
> and a patterson metropolis for the front crank
> so needless to say i'm pretty excited about installing all of this, but i have not gotten a chain tensioner. does anyone have a preference on tensioners? i have a kick back as well so i was thinking one with two iderler pullies on it will give me enough space...
> thanks for your thoughts, when its all together ill post some shots
- Why not use der. cable and not brake cable? The smaller head won't pass through the barrel adjuster, if you want you can use a brass ferrule which won't bind then you don't have to look at any cable housing.
Just you $0.02. Sounds like you used MTB brake cable on your first attemp.
But David is on the $$ when he says tensioners get in the way when pulling off a wheel. I have a schummey-archer and it's a pain getting the wheel on and off with a 20t cog on the back. 18t cog is not much easier. Plus the way you adjust the tensioner I have is to use spacers on the fixing bolt to move the pulley into alignment. Not exactly precision work and the fixing bolt is only so long which means I have limited range of adjustment. Chain wrap with cheap tensioner is generally not as good as a der. and with the extra torque, you want as many teeth engaged as possible.