Re: [rootsradicals] South America Tour
- My specific complaint about German electronics, was that the B&M S12, was not designed for use in "unexpected ways", and I was supposed to (1) clairvoyantly know that and (2) clairvoyantly know what was expected. In this instance, being mounted to the upper member of a FreeRadical, was "unexpected" because the S12 was insufficiently vertical, and it became wet inside, and its electronics malfunctioned, and continued to malfunction even after drying.
No satisfaction from the vendor, no satisfaction from B&M, yet they continue to get generally good press. Therefore, I regard good press as not a reliable indicator. Caveat Emptor. That was an expensive item, one should not need to throw a tantrum, so I don't. I state, instead, that I am utterly unsatisfied. I had similar experiences with the "Zinkins Dynashoe", which repeatedly rattled apart on our fine Boston roads. Again, "unexpected" use.
In the case of the SON, what are the uses expected by its designers? Does it continue to work after it has been submerged in water, or is that "unexpected"? If it IS submerged, what is the recommended protocol for drying it out to prevent/minimize damage? Am I really well-served by that vent-hole, if I am not hauling my bike across large temperature gradients on a daily basis? Is any of this documented by the manufacturer?
If dunking means failure, then I think I would rather buy a cheaper hub.
On 2011-05-01, at 8:45 PM, Vik Banerjee wrote:
> The SON is well worth the cost if you want dependable dynolighting. You'l replace a Shimano dynohub several times during the life of a SON.
> The comment made below about too much skewer grease refers to the fact the SON has a long coil of tubing inside it so that when you take it outside from a warm room into a cool damp day it doesn't suck in a lot of moisture that will corrode the interior components. The tube allows this moisture to condense somewhere harmless and too much grease would block that hole. This is a problem with any large bodied hub like a dynohub. Shimano simply ignores the problem and you'll end up buying a new one.
> I use both Shimano & SON dynohubs. The Shimano ones for my less critical missions and the SON for bikes that I can't afford a lighting failure.
> Shimano dynohubs cost ~$120-$150 and a SON is in the range of $250-$310.
> safe riding,
> Vik Banerjee
> On 2011-04-29, at 8:03 PM, David Chase wrote:
>> SON is pretty darn expensive; would you be better off with the much cheaper Shimano Hubs?
>> I recall reading on the Peter White site very specific instructions about not blocking the vent hole with grease (and my own experience with German electronics is rather unhappy, especially regarding water). Seems like you might be better off with a pretty-good hub, well-greased bearings (on the grease-able side) and I'm not sure what on the other side.
>> On 2011-04-29, at 10:33 PM, Rick wrote:
>>> dyno front hub — I have a Son dyno front hub that I could lace up with the new rims, but am I just asking for trouble trying to bring a water sensitive component along?
- Yep, that's been my latest and hopefully last solution: a 'mag'
flashlight with the new LED 'bulb' and a rechargable battery. It has
all metal housing, rubber gaskets, and three light settings: BRIGHT!!,
not so bright, and blink. It's supposed to last about 4 hours. The
problem is the housing that attaches it to the bike is still on the
privative side--needs a quick release. This thing really turns night
into day! It has to be as annoying for oncoming traffic as those
stinking halogen car headlights.
> While it has the same problem as some headlights with beams hitting other in the eyes, normal flashlights are cost effective waterproof (and often crashproof too) solutions. I use the twofish block to attach mine to the handlebar.
> Also very handy to have a proper flashlight at home or when travelling. Bike lights are usually not very handy due to their shape.