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Re: Clearance Issue: Free Radical and Sliding Dropouts...

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  • speedub_nate
    ... Thanks Rick. I hadn t gotten around to loosening up the forward bolts yet, but will have to let the sliders land where necessary to take up chain slack. I
    Message 1 of 9 , Dec 10, 2009
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      --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Rick Pickett <rick@...> wrote:
      >
      > This doesn't solve your bolt dropout issue, but I'd try sliding your
      > frame back into those dropouts more (aft-ward), to allow more of the
      > tongue nose to rest on the chain stay bridge. That is, unless
      > something else is inhibiting the positioning.
      >

      Thanks Rick. I hadn't gotten around to loosening up the forward bolts yet, but will have to let the sliders land where necessary to take up chain slack.

      I may end up with double FAPs.
    • Sean Moore
      do those two (four) bolts hold your dropouts in place? if so you re going to need all of them. It looks too tight for a sex bolt AKA t-nut setup and I m
      Message 2 of 9 , Dec 10, 2009
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        do those two (four) bolts hold your dropouts in place?  if so you're going to need all of them.

        It looks too tight for a "sex bolt" AKA "t-nut" setup and I'm not really sure those would take the load.

        I would definitely use two FAPs for that setup.  Mine was far less sketchy than that and I just used two of 'em.  I'm considering replacing the FAPs with steel, as the aluminum bends if you torque the allen bolt/nut too hard.

        Hopefully xtracycle employees will see your email and respond to you directly.  They do read this list.

        I ride some marginal stuff and I wouldn't ride that if I'm interpreting photos 1 and 2 correctly.

        --
        Sean Moore
        moore.sean@...


        On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 3:49 PM, speedub_nate <speedub.nate@...> wrote:
         



        --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Rick Pickett <rick@...> wrote:
        >
        > This doesn't solve your bolt dropout issue, but I'd try sliding your
        > frame back into those dropouts more (aft-ward), to allow more of the
        > tongue nose to rest on the chain stay bridge. That is, unless
        > something else is inhibiting the positioning.
        >

        Thanks Rick. I hadn't gotten around to loosening up the forward bolts yet, but will have to let the sliders land where necessary to take up chain slack.

        I may end up with double FAPs.


      • Sean Moore
        oh, and chain slack can be managed by removing links of chain. -- Sean Moore moore.sean@gmail.com
        Message 3 of 9 , Dec 10, 2009
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          oh, and chain slack can be managed by removing links of chain.

          --
          Sean Moore
          moore.sean@...


          On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 12:13 AM, Sean Moore <moore.sean@...> wrote:
          do those two (four) bolts hold your dropouts in place?  if so you're going to need all of them.

          It looks too tight for a "sex bolt" AKA "t-nut" setup and I'm not really sure those would take the load.

          I would definitely use two FAPs for that setup.  Mine was far less sketchy than that and I just used two of 'em.  I'm considering replacing the FAPs with steel, as the aluminum bends if you torque the allen bolt/nut too hard.

          Hopefully xtracycle employees will see your email and respond to you directly.  They do read this list.

          I ride some marginal stuff and I wouldn't ride that if I'm interpreting photos 1 and 2 correctly.

          --
          Sean Moore
          moore.sean@...



          On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 3:49 PM, speedub_nate <speedub.nate@...> wrote:
           



          --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Rick Pickett <rick@...> wrote:
          >
          > This doesn't solve your bolt dropout issue, but I'd try sliding your
          > frame back into those dropouts more (aft-ward), to allow more of the
          > tongue nose to rest on the chain stay bridge. That is, unless
          > something else is inhibiting the positioning.
          >

          Thanks Rick. I hadn't gotten around to loosening up the forward bolts yet, but will have to let the sliders land where necessary to take up chain slack.

          I may end up with double FAPs.



        • speedub_nate
          ... I ll give Edwin @ VD a chance to get back to me. Tonight I was thinking I can try reducing the second bolt by one diameter and using a T-nut (aka
          Message 4 of 9 , Dec 11, 2009
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            >
            > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 12:13 AM, Sean Moore <moore.sean@...> wrote:
            >
            > > do those two (four) bolts hold your dropouts in place? if so you're going
            > > to need all of them.
            > >
            > > It looks too tight for a "sex bolt" AKA "t-nut" setup and I'm not really
            > > sure those would take the load.
            > >
            > > I would definitely use two FAPs for that setup. Mine was far less sketchy
            > > than that and I just used two of 'em. I'm considering replacing the FAPs
            > > with steel, as the aluminum bends if you torque the allen bolt/nut too hard.
            > >
            > > Hopefully xtracycle employees will see your email and respond to you
            > > directly. They do read this list.
            > >
            > > I ride some marginal stuff and I wouldn't ride that if I'm interpreting
            > > photos 1 and 2 correctly.


            --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean Moore <moore.sean@...> wrote:
            >
            > oh, and chain slack can be managed by removing links of chain.
            >

            I'll give Edwin @ VD a chance to get back to me. Tonight I was thinking I can try reducing the second bolt by one diameter and using a T-nut (aka undersized chainring nut) in the orange slot, and thread the bolt through from the >inside< of the frame. That might not be full strength, but I think it would do the job.

            I'm planning on an Alfine for this bike, so am counting on the sliders to prevent the need for a tensioner.
          • Rick Pickett
            don t forget the half-link trick. Did that on my Trek 560 single speed conversion and gave me just the right chain length to run it straight w/o tensioner.
            Message 5 of 9 , Dec 11, 2009
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              don't forget the half-link trick. Did that on my Trek 560 single speed conversion and gave me just the right chain length to run it straight w/o tensioner.

              Cheers,

              Rick

              "Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling."  – James E. Starrs

              artistic shenaniganizer | rick@...
              888.537-1401 x709 | every day adventure





              On Dec 11, 2009, at 12:47 AM, speedub_nate wrote:

               



              >
              > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 12:13 AM, Sean Moore <moore.sean@ ...> wrote:
              >
              > > do those two (four) bolts hold your dropouts in place? if so you're going
              > > to need all of them.
              > >
              > > It looks too tight for a "sex bolt" AKA "t-nut" setup and I'm not really
              > > sure those would take the load.
              > >
              > > I would definitely use two FAPs for that setup. Mine was far less sketchy
              > > than that and I just used two of 'em. I'm considering replacing the FAPs
              > > with steel, as the aluminum bends if you torque the allen bolt/nut too hard.
              > >
              > > Hopefully xtracycle employees will see your email and respond to you
              > > directly. They do read this list.
              > >
              > > I ride some marginal stuff and I wouldn't ride that if I'm interpreting
              > > photos 1 and 2 correctly.

              --- In rootsradicals@ yahoogroups. com, Sean Moore <moore.sean@ ...> wrote:
              >
              > oh, and chain slack can be managed by removing links of chain.
              >

              I'll give Edwin @ VD a chance to get back to me. Tonight I was thinking I can try reducing the second bolt by one diameter and using a T-nut (aka undersized chainring nut) in the orange slot, and thread the bolt through from the >inside< of the frame. That might not be full strength, but I think it would do the job.

              I'm planning on an Alfine for this bike, so am counting on the sliders to prevent the need for a tensioner.


            • Sean Moore
              hah! I forgot that chainring nuts were like that. durrrr! I think that would work, but I d be checking them pretty often at first. I have a Shimano IGH and
              Message 6 of 9 , Dec 13, 2009
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                hah!  I forgot that chainring nuts were like that. durrrr!  I think that would work, but I'd be checking them pretty often at first.

                I have a Shimano IGH and don't use a tensioner.  It was a PITA to adjust until I figured out I could use the top stay to gain mechanical advantage by squeezing it against the chain stays of the bike, back and forth tightening one at a time.  I can easily over-tighten the chain now.

                --
                Sean Moore
                moore.sean@...


                On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 1:47 AM, speedub_nate <speedub.nate@...> wrote:
                 



                >
                > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 12:13 AM, Sean Moore <moore.sean@...> wrote:
                >
                > > do those two (four) bolts hold your dropouts in place? if so you're going
                > > to need all of them.
                > >
                > > It looks too tight for a "sex bolt" AKA "t-nut" setup and I'm not really
                > > sure those would take the load.
                > >
                > > I would definitely use two FAPs for that setup. Mine was far less sketchy
                > > than that and I just used two of 'em. I'm considering replacing the FAPs
                > > with steel, as the aluminum bends if you torque the allen bolt/nut too hard.
                > >
                > > Hopefully xtracycle employees will see your email and respond to you
                > > directly. They do read this list.
                > >
                > > I ride some marginal stuff and I wouldn't ride that if I'm interpreting
                > > photos 1 and 2 correctly.

                --- In rootsradicals@yahoogroups.com, Sean Moore <moore.sean@...> wrote:
                >
                > oh, and chain slack can be managed by removing links of chain.
                >

                I'll give Edwin @ VD a chance to get back to me. Tonight I was thinking I can try reducing the second bolt by one diameter and using a T-nut (aka undersized chainring nut) in the orange slot, and thread the bolt through from the >inside< of the frame. That might not be full strength, but I think it would do the job.

                I'm planning on an Alfine for this bike, so am counting on the sliders to prevent the need for a tensioner.


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