Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

664Hands and handlebars, was Re: Mechanical Disk Brakes

Expand Messages
  • David Chase
    Oct 15, 2006
      > I put a Hope on the front and a Gustav on the rear, just to try two
      > kinds. When buying replacement pads, be sure to specify the longer
      > wearing compound. They stop me just fine and last a long time. I
      > replaced the originals in about 1000 miles and have 2000 on the
      > replacments.
      I am curious about this -- how do the two types of pads differ?
      The (resin) pads that came with my bike and brakes seemed to wear
      not much at all with lots of light around-town braking, and pretty
      quickly on a descent of a 300 feet (> 5% grade, I think). Obviously,
      the slower the wear, the less often they need adjusting
      > If I were building again, I'd certainly try the mechanicals after
      > reading these reviews, but given my constant steep hill braking and my
      > hands that are usually painful from getting smashed and developing
      > arthritis/tendonitis, I really appreciate the feel of the hydraulics.
      I don't know what your handlebars look like, but what I ended up
      doing after years of fiddling and experimenting, was a set of moustache
      bars, double-wrapped with handlebar tape. Assume padded gloves during
      all of this. The reasons/history for this choice:

      - plain old drop bars. I was spending all my time on the tops and
      not much on the drops. I am not (or perhaps, am currently not, until
      I get much more time on the bike again) as flexible as I was as a kid.

      - mountain-bike bars. These gave me numb hands within 3 miles of
      I played a bit with their length, height, etc, but that never really
      worked. I tried bar ends, not that good either.

      - moustache bars. This let me put my hands in a variety of positions,
      with a primary one similar to drop bars, but not as low. This worked
      pretty well, including on a 300 mile trip in Nova Scotia. But I
      did develop some persistent numbness in the left side of my left
      ring finger. so...

      - double-wrapped moustache bars. I made a point of getting a "soft"
      tape for the top layer. I just taped right on top of the existing
      tape, with an opposite orientation. The bars are bigger, which
      spreads the load a little, and softer, which also helps.

      The double-wrapping seems to be the big item; I've got a cheap
      used tandem, that I am renovating on the cheap, and as yet it
      has mountain bars with grip shifters and bar ends. I doubled-
      wrapped the part of that that I could, including the bar ends,
      and it was quite helpful. (The moustache transform costs over
      $100, once you a price bars (30), bar-end shifters (60), levers
      (depends, see below), and tape. It can be a moderate pain to
      find 8-speed shifters if you are renovating an old-ish bike and
      don't also want to pony up for new chain and cluster).

      I don't think I'm done with my fiddling. I think, based on how I use
      them, that I need to pull them in a hair closer, so that the levers
      (Turtle Creek hooded levers, splayed out so the levers are sideways)
      are a little closer in and a little more comfortable to use climbing.
      If-you-do-this, you either need to get linear-pull hooded levers,
      (Dia-Compe makes some, they are expensive) or else install a Travel

      I put up an album with pictures,make of it what you will.


      The head-on shot shows a lot; the level and tilt, more or less
      (the seat is directly behind, you can see the passenger handgrips)
      the bar-end shifters (never had them before, a friend of mine hates
      them, I think they're great) the brake lever positioning, the cable
      routing, and the two layers (gray over cork) of handlebar tape.

    • Show all 17 messages in this topic