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Katrina damage

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  • smallen2
    I have a 6 acre wooded lot that had a great cover with natural pine straw and leaves. Hurricane Katrina destroyed about a third of my trees. I now have large
    Message 1 of 3 , Sep 30, 2005
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      I have a 6 acre wooded lot that had a great cover with natural pine
      straw and leaves. Hurricane Katrina destroyed about a third of my
      trees. I now have large areas with all this natural cover removed by
      the bulldozers and other machinery used to clean up the mess. It is
      largely sloped about 10-15 degrees. There are not enough trees left to
      naturally recover the aforementioned areas. I have two needs. What to
      do in the immediate future for erosion. And what to plant long term
      that will cover quickly. I have about decided to use pine straw
      initially, but have no idea what to use long term. I do not want
      grass. The area is not close to a watering source. I would like some
      sort of seed of a non-flowering ground cover that will cover quickly.
      Any advice appreciated.

      Thanks. Dr. Mark Allen, 305 S. Archusa Ave.,Quitman, MS. 39355.
      smallen@....
    • william anderson
      Hi, I live in Illinois. In the fall after the frost killed the garden or early in the spring, we often planted rye as a ground cover and as green manure to
      Message 2 of 3 , Oct 1, 2005
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        Hi, I live in Illinois. In the fall after the frost killed the garden or early in the spring, we often planted rye as a ground cover and as green manure to plow or till under. I realize that rye and also oats are grasses but they make good temporary ground covers. In fact I planted some with vetch on a small plot that was unused. Nothing but sand. And the rye came back for many years while the vetch increased each year adding nitrogen to the soil.

        smallen2 <smallen2@...> wrote:
        I have a 6 acre wooded lot that had a great cover with natural pine
        straw and leaves. Hurricane Katrina destroyed about a third of my
        trees. I now have large areas with all this natural cover removed by
        the bulldozers and other machinery used to clean up the mess. It is
        largely sloped about 10-15 degrees. There are not enough trees left to
        naturally recover the aforementioned areas. I have two needs. What to
        do in the immediate future for erosion. And what to plant long term
        that will cover quickly. I have about decided to use pine straw
        initially, but have no idea what to use long term. I do not want
        grass. The area is not close to a watering source. I would like some
        sort of seed of a non-flowering ground cover that will cover quickly.
        Any advice appreciated.

        Thanks. Dr. Mark Allen, 305 S. Archusa Ave.,Quitman, MS. 39355.
        smallen@....




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      • A. A. Pasternak
        Hello Dr. Mark, Best wishes for a speedy recovery in all ways possible from Hurricane Katrina. Before offering the traditional ground cover solutions, there is
        Message 3 of 3 , Oct 1, 2005
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          Hello Dr. Mark,

          Best wishes for a speedy recovery in all ways possible from Hurricane
          Katrina.

          Before offering the traditional ground cover solutions, there is a way to
          encourage water retention on your slope and maybe do something different..

          "Armed with shovels, we learned the art of digging swales. The somewhat
          archaic word "swale" refers to the terracing of the hillsides for the
          purpose of capturing water run-off and avoiding damaging erosion. With the
          use of simple leveling tools, made from bamboo and a "plumb" line with a
          rock as a weight, it was possible to dig the swales while following the
          contours of the hillside slope. Before we ventured out to dig swales, we
          learned that the U.S. government, during the WPA projects of the 1930s, put
          in many large swales in the arid regions of the Western United States. These
          landforms may be seen today, still working correctly after nearly six
          decades."
          http://www.hopedance.org/archive/issue31/articles/newcomer.htm

          Includes image:
          "The main water harvesting swales should be initially seeded to a legume
          cover crop and cover with a thin mulch of straw to force germination with
          minimum moisture requirement. Then fast growing legume trees planted on the
          up hill side these serve the system by initial shelter from wind and by
          shade greatly reducing evaporation. These trees also fix nitrogen to the
          soil while greatly enhancing the surrounding soil structure particularly
          down slope. They also produce large amounts of nitrogen rich mulch which can
          be cut and placed as mulch around the fruit trees, this greatly reduces soil
          moisture evaporation and as decomposition takes place contribute to the
          fertilizing of the fruit trees also increasing soil organic matter,
          improving soil structure. The legume trees should be prune for mulch at the
          end of summer just prior to the autumn rains as temperatures drop and
          evaporation has decreased and the system generally benefits from increased
          light. After cutting these trees quickly re-sprout new twig growth and by
          the beginning of the next summer when temperatures rise again and
          evaporation of soil moisture is a major problem they are performing their
          function of shade and wind protection. This process can be repeated year
          after year as the system establishes, eventually after a few years the wood
          from the larger prunings can be used for firewood for cooking or heating."
          http://photos.permaculture.org.au/gallery/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=0&pos=-388

          More swale images:
          http://photos.permaculture.org.au/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=search&type=full&search=swales

          ....

          Easy Groundcovers for Mississippi Lawns
          http://msucares.com/lawn/landscape/groundcover.html
          Your slope may not be a lawn, but it needs a ground cover that grows in your
          area.

          However, you need something fast growing for this winter.

          Austrian Field Pea - Pisum sativum - [check page for other erosion control
          plants]
          http://www.bountifulgardens.org/shop/compost-crops.html

          A very cold-hardy over-wintering pea; can take some sub-zero weather. Grows
          on poorer soil than clover but makes less nitrogen. Doesn't compete well
          with abundant Winter weed growth. Fall planting prevents winter, wind and
          water erosion. Flowers later than clover, giving it an advantage since it
          goes later without developing seeds. Peas only suitable as livestock feed.
          Breaks down fast into soil.

          You can get it in bulk sizes here:

          Speckled Field Pea
          http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?item_no=PS11528
          Pisum sativum

          The Austrian variety is usually fall planted except in extremely cold
          climates where it is spring planted. Its viney growth habit provides
          excellent erosion control. The Speckled Field variety is spring planted as
          soon as the ground can be worked. It has an erect growth habit and is
          traditionally grown with oat. Yields 4000-5000 lb/acre dry matter and 150
          lb/acre nitrogen. Legume. Plant 80-150 lb/acre or 2-3.5 lb/1000 sq.ft.

          In the spring....

          This is one of my favourite multiple use ground cover plants:
          http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com/groundcoverthymes.htm
          Carraway Thyme http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com/thyherbabarona.htm
          is the best they say and is still in stock. Check the "In Stock" section.

          Here's another: http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com/oreganolawn.htm

          This is a search of the MS forest commission's website for the term "erosion
          control"
          http://tinyurl.com/c8so6

          Preparing for the Storm
          http://www.mfc.state.ms.us/urban/pdf/smrcd.pdf
          Hurricane resistant landscapes

          Native Trees for Mississippi Landscapes
          http://msucares.com/lawn/landscape/native_trees.html
          at least two of these are fast growing.

          This is a search of PFAF's database for plants with the term "erosion
          control"
          http://tinyurl.com/dzcmd

          This is a search of PFAF's database for ground cover plants with the term
          "soil stabilization"
          http://tinyurl.com/8qz6k

          This is a seach of Garden Web's forums on "erosion control"
          http://tinyurl.com/cx8py


          Kind regards,

          Al

          P.S. Let me know what you did and how it turned out.:-)

          My Urban Garden projects
          http://urbanwild.diary-x.com
          Items wanted and Thanks
          http://tinyurl.com/3vsuc
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: smallen2
          To: pfaf@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 9:53 PM
          Subject: [pfaf] Katrina damage


          I have a 6 acre wooded lot that had a great cover with natural pine
          straw and leaves. Hurricane Katrina destroyed about a third of my
          trees. I now have large areas with all this natural cover removed by
          the bulldozers and other machinery used to clean up the mess. It is
          largely sloped about 10-15 degrees. There are not enough trees left to
          naturally recover the aforementioned areas. I have two needs. What to
          do in the immediate future for erosion. And what to plant long term
          that will cover quickly. I have about decided to use pine straw
          initially, but have no idea what to use long term. I do not want
          grass. The area is not close to a watering source. I would like some
          sort of seed of a non-flowering ground cover that will cover quickly.
          Any advice appreciated.

          Thanks. Dr. Mark Allen, 305 S. Archusa Ave.,Quitman, MS. 39355.
          smallen@....
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