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Re: [pfaf] Re: Edible Landscaping

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  • fran k
    Nice one thanks Gaardenier, I am a successful forest garden nursery plant grower from cuttings and seeds and I never knew that about the poor soil. I have a
    Message 1 of 6 , Mar 14, 2013
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      Nice one thanks Gaardenier,

      I am a successful forest garden nursery plant grower from cuttings and seeds and I never knew that about the poor soil.
      I have a great deal of success with growing thousands of plants.

      Your information about the soil is very very much appreciated.

      Frank.



      ------------------------------
      On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 10:59 GMT Gaardenier wrote:

      >
      >
      >Dear Sam,
      >
      >
      >
      >You should leave rooting cuttings in peace en their substrate! Do not pull
      >out a.s.o.! Young life is very fragile, didn't you know?
      >
      >The substrate should be as poor as possible and only retain (rain)water.
      >This will force a good root development, searching for food.
      >
      >Any help to root is welcome for a plant, so root hormones are always
      >welcome!
      >
      >When clearly roots and small leaves are developing, then you can transplant
      >to a bigger pot with richer soil. Try to keep the surrounding soil around
      >the roots, so that you do not provoke to much stress. Do not add any
      >fertilizer, because again, young seedlings are fragile and easy burnt by
      >fertilizer.
      >
      >When development is further on, you can slowly and gradually apply
      >fertilizer, if considered necessary. Increase pot size also gradually, and
      >not immediately in a very big pot.
      >
      >Success!
      >
      >
      >
      >vriendelijke groeten, Kind Regards,
      >
      >
      >
      >Gaardenier
      >
      >Flanders/belgium/Europe
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • Barbara Ebel
      Im of a lightly different opinion.  I have had good luck with poor growing medium.  Really rich stuff seems to encourage rot during this precarious stage. 
      Message 2 of 6 , Mar 14, 2013
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        Im of a lightly different opinion.  I have had good luck with poor growing medium.  Really rich stuff seems to encourage rot during this precarious stage.  I dont use stuff completely devoid of nutrients however.  I think its too hard on the plant.  It also depends a bit on what you are trying to start.

        I have had good luck with rooting hormone, but mine says not for use on food plants.  I have not idea why or if that is typical of rooting compounds.  Something to consider.

        Also, be patient.  I have some turmeric, pineapple and some ginger that took almost a year to root.  Plants think differently about time than we do.

        Barbara Ebel
        http://www.greenknowe.org
        http://www.couturecostume.com



        From: fran k <frank_bowman@...>
        To: pfaf@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 8:08 AM
        Subject: Re: [pfaf] Re: Edible Landscaping

         

        Nice one thanks Gaardenier,

        I am a successful forest garden nursery plant grower from cuttings and seeds and I never knew that about the poor soil.
        I have a great deal of success with growing thousands of plants.

        Your information about the soil is very very much appreciated.

        Frank.

        ------------------------------
        On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 10:59 GMT Gaardenier wrote:

        >
        >
        >Dear Sam,
        >
        >
        >
        >You should leave rooting cuttings in peace en their substrate! Do not pull
        >out a.s.o.! Young life is very fragile, didn't you know?
        >
        >The substrate should be as poor as possible and only retain (rain)water.
        >This will force a good root development, searching for food.
        >
        >Any help to root is welcome for a plant, so root hormones are always
        >welcome!
        >
        >When clearly roots and small leaves are developing, then you can transplant
        >to a bigger pot with richer soil. Try to keep the surrounding soil around
        >the roots, so that you do not provoke to much stress. Do not add any
        >fertilizer, because again, young seedlings are fragile and easy burnt by
        >fertilizer.
        >
        >When development is further on, you can slowly and gradually apply
        >fertilizer, if considered necessary. Increase pot size also gradually, and
        >not immediately in a very big pot.
        >
        >Success!
        >
        >
        >
        >vriendelijke groeten, Kind Regards,
        >
        >
        >
        >Gaardenier
        >
        >Flanders/belgium/Europe
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >



      • Francis S
        Hi SAM How to make Rooting hormone gather willow sticks place in a bucket of water let sit for 3 days remove sticks, and you have rooting hormone.. (I have
        Message 3 of 6 , May 8, 2013
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          Hi SAM How to make Rooting hormone gather willow sticks place in a bucket of water let sit for 3 days remove sticks, and you have rooting hormone..

          (I have used leaves too
          I was recomended sticks from where I learned it from
          (OHG yahoo group oranic homesteading gardening)

          Leaves can float (I learned, and ,mold (mould) can form on them)
          still used it, but it really works.)

          Oh Almost forgot

          for cuttings (keep the jar on it too , but not too hot.)

          I start mango seeds in a plasitc grocery bag filled with air
          really builds up humidity
          you can see the condensation build up on the bag.

          Really you probaly would not want your cuttings to get hot

          but you can take a aquaruim put scotch tape on it like zebra striped
          to prevent some of the heat, and start cuttings.

          to encourage root growth,
          the roots do better warm, but the top cuttings cool.

          to keep the bottom hot , but the top cool
          you can use a heating pad
          Or
          You can also cut a hole in the bottom put a old light bulb in it
          below the soil.

          better directions online
          (I think I saw something on a mike mcgoarthy free newsletter I get,.









          --- In pfaf@yahoogroups.com, "Yoke-BT" <yokevandermeer@...> wrote:
          >
          > What plants are they? The main thing being if they are hardy/temperate... It
          > looks as they are as they did have no leaves when they arrived! In that case
          > the ones in the garage are better off as they are still dormant! Normally
          > hardwood cuttings (deciduous shrubs/trees) are taken straight after
          > leaf-fall and then placed in compost or open soil in order to callus and
          > then make some roots before winter. Then they are ready to grow when
          > temperature and light-levels rise in spring! By putting them in vermiculite
          > in a light position the plant came in a false believe it was spring and
          > unless you keep the temperature and light-levels up it won't be happy!
          >
          > Best wishes, Yoke
          >
          >
          >
          > From: pfaf@yahoogroups.com [mailto:pfaf@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
          > sam_schaperow
          > Sent: 14 March 2013 02:42
          > To: pfaf@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: [pfaf] Edible Landscaping
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > I met someone through Yahoo foraging groups who kindly sent me some plants
          > in exchange for some mushroom spores. Unfortunately the plants came as
          > dormant cuttings. Some I placed in damp soil in pots in my garage, and
          > others I put into lightly moistened vermiculite in a glass jar in my house
          > at room temperature. Every week or so I've pulled out the sticks from the
          > jar to see if roots came in yet. Last week one did have a thick root
          > sticking out. I put it back in, and it snapped off.
          >
          > Should I just leave it there until roots grow & hit the glass (so as to not
          > pull it out from time to time)? Or should I check on it as I did, assuming
          > they won't break coming out, but then dig a hole to put it back in to not
          > harm the root going back in, and then fill the hole in w/the vermiculite?
          > When do I transfer it to soil?
          >
          > Also, I've looked into rooting hormone, but so far what I've read doesn't
          > show it to do a lot (a modest increase in rooting at best). Any suggestions
          > on that topic?
          >
          > Thank you.
          >
          > Sam Schaperow, B.S., M.S.
          > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/plantforagers/ (Co-Moderator of the
          > world's most active Yahoo plant foraging group)
          >
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