Re: [pfaf] Japanese Knotweed
- If vinegar could do it and you were the first to discover it, you¹d be a
millionaire if you kept your formula secret.
The plant grows along canal and river banks, and along railway lines. It is
TERRIFICALLY invasive. It has taken over huge swathes of Pembrokeshire,
Cornwall, Devon, etc. It is one of only 3 plants which are banned by law
in the UK. It has no natural predators in this country, having been imported
for about 100 years from Japan as an ornamental waterside plant. In small
clumps it looks graceful (something like bamboo) but it spreads quickly and
almost irrevocably. In Japan there are predators which keep it in check
(insect and fungus I think), but scientists are loathe to bring these to the
UK in case they attack related plants.
It forms almost impenetrable thickets, and no other plant except established
trees can survive. Also it has nothing living on it, so it creates
ecological desert areas.
Good luck with the vinegar. I think you might need something more like
sulphuric acid!!!!!! (No, not really).
> Interesting! I'm going to look this plant up. I know that vinegar kills off[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> roaches, fleas and some plants. Do you think that it would work with this one?
> Now you've got me interested.
> Griselda <griselda1@... <mailto:griselda1%40btopenworld.com> >
> I spent a long time researching this on the net and in practice, trying to
> remove a patch of about 80 sq metres of it from a garden.
> I found there are three parts of this plant to deal with: the stalks, the
> surface roots¹ and the deep underground rhizomes (the real problem). Each
> part needs different treatment.
> I found that repeated scything worked very well for the stalks, once they
> have grown more than a foot or two, you just keep doing it, several times a
> season. You lay them out to dry, preferably in the sun, and then either
> compost them when they are totally dried out or burn them. Scything is
> good in that you get a clean cut, without spreading living small fragments
> around the place too much. It is also very satisfying and you can get
> through a large patch quite quickly.
> Then you are faced with the clumps in the ground. The scythed-off stalk
> stumps eventually dry out and die. Pulling these out gives you the illusion
> you are pulling the roots up. You can get a clump of root¹ stuff out with
> each stalk, but of course this grows from a rhizome much deeper underground
> some authorities say these rhizomes can grow down several metres, so it
> impractical to dig them out.
> When you get these surface roots¹ out, you need to burn them. If you dry
> them, they do not die and can regenerate. Do not compost these parts. Some
> people worry about bonfires, as they are contributing to pollution, but if
> you do burn these root clumps, the ash is good for fertiliser.
> The only way you can attack the deep rhizomes is by total surface attack
> remove all photosynthesising parts for a very long time (years?), or if you
> are in a hurry you have to use chemicals which go all the way down, which I
> confess I resorted to in the end, with great reluctance. However, this
> did start to work at the edges of the patch, where I guess the rhizome
> structure was weaker or younger I saw considerably less regrowth and new
> shoots appearing. Some authorities say there is a danger that if you
> apply too much of the weedkiller it can leach or leak out of the rhizomes
> into neighbouring plants, so this might be a risk if you have valuable trees
> nearby. However, I was using glyphosate (Roundup) which claims to be
> inactive in the soil, so I don¹t know how it would carry across from the
> rhizomes to the roots of another plant....maybe this would happen if the
> rootlets were actually touching.
> I had immense satisfaction in starting to deal with this problem: commercial
> companies I approached quoted thousands of pounds to do the job and gave no
> guarantees it would work without excavating the whole site to a depth of
> five metres! I think I will have eradicated it by myself and with very
> simple methods within 3 years, and using only a minimum of chemical.
> By the way, the shoots taste horrible. I¹d rather have aspargus any day. Or
>> > -early shoots can be eaten like asparagus
>> > -goats & pigs love it but needs to be rationed because they will eat
>> > it until it makes them sick
>> > -we make panpipes & flutes from the dried stalks
>> > -& the famous Chinese tonic for long life Shou Wei is made from it
>> > & of course don't ever plant it where you're not gonna want it in 20
>> > years.
>> > ~mIEKAL
>> > On Feb 14, 2007, at 8:53 AM, Dee Harris wrote:
>>>> >> > I haven't had a chance to get to the original post about Japanese
>>>> >> > Knotweed so can someone fill me in? Is Japanese Knotweed only good
>>>> >> > for breaking down compost or is it good for other uses?
>>>> >> > Wolf
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> test'; ">
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- There is only one natural predator for such plants but I wouldn't suggest putting them in any garden since they spread faster than the plants do and that's grub worms. They will kill off anything in their area.
Pat Meadows <pat@...> wrote:
On Fri, 16 Feb 2007 06:30:41 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>Little wonder if it's as invasive as you say. Sounds like what burdock does.
I think the prize for Horrible Invasive Plants goes to giant hogweed,
however. That stuff is SCARY!
I have never seen it, just read about it. I hope it stays that way.
In the Appalachian Mountains in northern Pennsylvania
'Every one of us can do something to protect and
care for our planet. We should live in such a way
that makes a future possible.' - Thich Nhat Hanh
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
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