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Lightweight Lathe -- was Stainless Steel Pen

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  • kenvalaska
    live in ... Tony -- Look at the Taig Lathe that is sold in the UK under the by Peatol Machine Tools. This is the same lathe head that forms the basis of the
    Message 1 of 14 , Apr 1, 2007
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      live in
      > the UK where the pricing structure is vastly different?


      Tony -- Look at the Taig Lathe that is sold in the UK under the by
      Peatol Machine Tools. This is the same lathe head that forms the
      basis of the Bonnie Klein Lathe and one sold by Penn State
      Industries. The headstock is 3/4 by 16 (unless you go for the ER16
      head) but does not have the morse taper in headstock or tailstock.

      A Canada firm Lee Valley sells these with wood turning accessories
      also. See the leevalley.com web site. You will need the live
      center sold by Taig. It fits into the tailstock. Tony Jeffree in
      the UK has a book out on the metal working setup that may give you
      some ideas for this lathe.

      I am also familiar with "Artie and the Ritus Brothers". Note that
      most of the weight will be in the motor, and the smaller motors (1/8
      hp or so) will work with the classic "sharp tools and light cuts"
      statements. More torque comes with more weight. About 1/4 to 1/3 Hp
      is about all this lathe can handle anyway.

      I have three wood turning lathes and use the taig most of the time
      because I can turn sitting without hip,knee, and ankle ouches. You
      can also rig this lathe for metal turning and make bushings, etc.

      Good luck with your search.

      Ken in Juneau
    • Ralph Edman
      I don t think this is fair to all SS. Some SS are hard to drill, some are hard to weld, some are easy to machine. Choosing the correct SS to
      Message 2 of 14 , Apr 1, 2007
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        I don't think this is fair to all SS. ''Some'' SS are
        hard to drill, ''some '' are hard to weld, ''some''
        are easy to machine. Choosing the correct SS to work
        with is the problem. Of course we are dealing with
        FOG SS, where all bets are off.

        Ralph

        --- Pete Lilja <plilja@...> wrote:

        > That's a good question. SS is tough to drill. This
        > particular piece of steel was already drilled at .30
        > caliber so that eased my pain quite a bit. I have
        > drilled through SS and it can be a slow going chore.
        >
        > I just use regular ol' twist bits. Typically I
        > start with a small bit and drill halfway from each
        > end using lots of oil (I'm using chainsaw bar oil
        > these days). Start small and work up to the finish
        > size. It takes a long time but it will make a hole.
        >
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: Ryan Gajsek
        > To: penturners@yahoogroups.com
        > Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 10:58 AM
        > Subject: [penturners] Re: Stainless Steel Pen
        >
        >
        > --- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "Pete Lilja"
        > <plilja@...> wrote:
        > >
        > > Several weeks ago I wrote this group asking
        > about making a stainless
        > steel pen.
        > > It was a bit time consuming since I'm using a
        > mini-lathe and the 416
        > stainless steel originally was 1.25" in diameter!
        > That's a lot of
        > cutting but is the material I had on hand.
        > > Pete
        >
        > Nice pen!! What did you use to drill the blank. I
        > remember trying to
        > drill a sheet of thin SS with a HSS drill bit.
        > Took a long time and
        > was hard to cut through. Are there special drill
        > bits for SS? Or is
        > there a special way to sharpen the bit? How long
        > did it take to drill
        > that length all the way through?
        >
        > Ryan
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been
        > removed]
        >
        >




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