108616Re: [penturners] CA glue finish
- Jan 6, 2014I sometimes use a piece of a tee shirt. Usually, I'll use the thin CA to first seal the pen. Then, afterwards, I'll use the thick for buildup. Works for me.
Then, I wet sand it, and go thru about halfway with micromesh, the use the plastic pen polish from HUT.
Steve in MO
From: Ina Cabanas <ribcab@...>
Sent: Monday, January 6, 2014 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: [penturners] CA glue finish
I purchased the Barry Gross Acrylic Buffing System about a year ago. I ALWAYS use it when I make acrylic pens. I don't use polish of any kind when I use the buffing system. It saves me polish & time & does a GREAT job.I wonder if people use CA glue with a cotton rag instead of paper towels?InaOn Jan 6, 2014, at 11:08 AM, "Turnings" <turningsbybob@...> wrote:
The normal way I apply the CA is a couple of drops on the SLOWLY spinning blank and smooth with a Bounty (best for all wood turning apps – Select a size and best ply). Then after two coats – light spray with the accelerator. Captain Eddie Castelin puts the drops of CA onto the multi-folded paper piece of paper towel – and applies from the towel – same for the accelerator. Both seem to work – but I do think I get a faster and thicker build up with the direct application. In either case – be very careful that 1) the CA is not spun into the air and eyes (duh) and also that the paper piece is thick enough and put down quickly because the CA will seep through and burn your finger – Don’t know why I know this!!!???
Going to try the 3 piece “Dr. Kirks Micro Magic Polishing Wax Kit” from Craft Supply – have ordered – not received as yet. Some members in my club, with better eyesight, found some micro scratches on a re3cent red acrylic pen. I have, but didn’t use, the Barry Gross Acrylic Pen Buffing System on the pen in question. Will try both systems and report.Happy New Year and Happy Turning!BobDo the same thing – I sand through 120 - 600 with Mirka Abranet then 600 – 2000 disks using power sander, if I CA finish I micromesh through the 9 pads and then a plastic compound / wax. Scratch free, glossy and preserved against the elements. Concur on the comments on resin.BobI use a power sander – i.e. mandrel on drill with sandpaper – after initial sanding. The orbital sanding takes out the radial lines. But best to start with lower grit such as 220 when turning sanding, some sanding with the grain with the same grit. I sand 220, 320, 400, 600 and then orbital 600 , 800 and 1200. Then 4 coats of CA with accelerator after every two coats. Them micromesh through all 9 pads (wet) wiping residue after each pad. Then a coat of plastic polish which also has a slight pumice content.May seem like a lot, but the wooden pens have a marvelous scratch free finish. On resin I basically do the same approach but obviously CA is not needed. Still do the micromesh and then the plastic polish.Hope this works for you.BobOn 10/7/2013 10:11 AM, Stan wrote:The marks are radial Brad. I sand to 600 and I wipe with alcohol and I start with Thin CA maybe 2 coats. And I sand with the grain but I think I am simply not sanding enough with the grain. You are using a coarser grit to sand with the grain than I do. But no matter how much I apply and sand the CA will not go on smooth. I am basically doing what you do, including the polish at the end but I simply have not been successful getting the radial lines out. I will work harder with the 400 grit, maybe that is the secret.ThanksStana good light should show if the lines are in the wood or not.. I have had that happen, it looks smooth, but get a light right, and I got lines still showing.. Whatever grit I last used, I have to use with the grain by hand, and then check again.. I have also had to do thin AGAIN with the next grit...
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