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Re: [onesheetwonders]

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  • Jack
    Hello Ken, I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did
    Message 1 of 19 , Feb 6, 2011
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      Hello Ken,

      I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?

      Cheers Phil.

      --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
      >
      > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
      >
      > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
      > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
      > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
      > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      >
      >
      > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
      >
      > Cheers Phil.
      >
      > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
      > >
      > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
      > > last year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
      > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy. 
      > >  
      > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
      > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, it swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
      > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
      > >  
      > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
      > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
      > > kinda inspired by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
      > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
      > >  
      > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
      > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
      > >  
      > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
      > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
      > >  
      > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hiney in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
      > >  
      > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
      > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
      > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
      > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
      > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
      > >  
      > > wasted sheet? the four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
      > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
      > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
      > >  
      > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
      > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
      > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'd probably lose a tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for the extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
      > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
      > >  
      > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
      > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
      > >  
      > >  
      > >  
      > >  
      > >
      > >
      > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
      > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
      > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
      > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
      > >
      > >
      > >  
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
      > >
      > > Greg
      > >
      > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
      > >
      >
    • KEN
      I m 6 1 and about 165-170 lb (is 75-77 kg?)   it performs very well, but the 19 width IS a bit tippy, not horribly but gotta be wide awake! really do think
      Message 2 of 19 , Feb 6, 2011
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        I'm 6'1 and about 165-170 lb (is 75-77 kg?)
         
        it performs very well, but the 19" width IS a bit tippy, not horribly but gotta be wide awake!
        really do think it'd be better 4" wider and go the taller gunwale clamp on's.
        I was surprised at the straight line paddling-coasting it does, tracks nice enough.
        the 30 degree chine logs (minus 5 for 10 degree bottom) gives a bit of resist to heeling.
        also going 4" wider gains some 2 sq ft to the footprint would probably draft less, or handle a bit more weight -and- gain some stability. you can probably go a bit longer curves to the "corners" too when clamping down chine logs. mine is a little much "triangle-rectangle-triangle" with very abrupt curves there. 19" floor I was trying to keep all the square inches I could! so my arcs were extra short.
         
        it was a "knock it out" experiment, that was done in a week just to try it. rough plan thats like "in development" really. taking the chine logs to 27 degrees would probably decrease the rocker a little bit.. which might increase (I'd expect) for the slightly different angle that'd happen for taking it wider. "fast" canoes have less rocker, but more rocker can be easier maneuverable. less rocker goes straight tracking better. I'm not a "designer", this is all off the cuff trial and error development! the more the merrier maybe we all get it nailed down.
         
        I think side flare is important for the heeling resistance, and for the curves that work against the triangle-rectangle-triangle straightnesses of the bottom.. sides get too vertical I think it'd lose some rigidity gained from the stresses. the sandwiched keel rocker, the chine logs, and the gunwales, with the curves.. (and the 2 spreaders) made for "stressed rigid".
        -you'll see it when you start from center out, scrambling to get 1 tip then the other together pulling and screwing and drilling for zipties and bow-stern twigs all at once!
        when glue-clamping chine logs to floor, dont forget to pull the chine logs in an extra 1/4-3/8 inch, it'll help when putting the sides on when you're getting to those tips!
         
        I love the look of hannu's "dug" but 16" floor and very little freeboard kinda spooks me.
        wasnt happy with "dory82's" handling, but the weight capacity was big!
        so I went after a kinda 1 sheet scaled down "light sculling trainer" as a kayak.
         
        its not a "perfect plan", theres a lot of construction adhesive slammed in as filler towards those tips.. but it seems the best option for a simpler cut when making chine logs.
        keel sandwich, maybe try 5-1/2 or 6 degrees there.
         
        seams are taped, double to the upright ends.. keel sandwich isnt. used 1 qt resin to the whole outside (3 thin coats) before painting.
         
        I dont think it'd be a prob with 110kg (240lb?) made 4" wider. that extra 2 sq ft worth of floor probably put us right about drafting the same. I'm wanting to build another with the width, to handle myself plus light camping/fishing gear. friends here like to take off canoe camping.
        19" is great in the pond and small lake, down a river I want that 4" more!

        --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:

        From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
        Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
        To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM

         
        Hello Ken,

        I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?

        Cheers Phil.

        --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
        >
        > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
        >
        > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
        > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
        > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
        > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
        >
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >
        > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
        >
        > Cheers Phil.
        >
        > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
        > >
        > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
        > > last year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
        > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy. 
        > >  
        > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
        > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, it swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
        > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
        > >  
        > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
        > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
        > > kinda inspired by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
        > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
        > >  
        > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
        > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
        > >  
        > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
        > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
        > >  
        > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hiney in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
        > >  
        > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
        > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
        > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
        > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
        > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
        > >  
        > > wasted sheet? the four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
        > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
        > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
        > >  
        > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
        > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
        > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'd probably lose a tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for the extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
        > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
        > >  
        > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
        > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
        > >  
        > >  
        > >  
        > >  
        > >
        > >
        > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
        > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
        > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
        > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
        > >
        > >
        > >  
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
        > >
        > > Greg
        > >
        > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
        > >
        >


      • KEN
        I got curious and searched buoyancy cubic foot and it popped up about 63 lbs. 8      (center section plus 2 triangle ends) x1.5   (width approximate of
        Message 3 of 19 , Feb 7, 2011
        • 0 Attachment
          I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
          8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
          x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
          x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
          756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
          of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
          that keel sandwiched V bottom.
          that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
          side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
          --scenario 2-- widened floor..
          8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
          x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
          x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
          958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
          guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
          its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
          but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
          8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
          more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.

          --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:

          From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
          Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
          To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM

           
          Hello Ken,

          I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?

          Cheers Phil.

          --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
          >
          > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
          >
          > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
          > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
          > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
          > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
          >
          >
          >  
          >
          >
          >
          > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
          >
          > Cheers Phil.
          >
          > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
          > >
          > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
          > > last year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
          > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy. 
          > >  
          > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
          > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, it swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
          > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
          > >  
          > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
          > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
          > > kinda inspired by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
          > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
          > >  
          > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
          > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
          > >  
          > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
          > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
          > >  
          > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hiney in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
          > >  
          > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
          > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
          > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
          > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
          > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
          > >  
          > > wasted sheet? the four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
          > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
          > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
          > >  
          > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
          > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
          > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'd probably lose a tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for the extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
          > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
          > >  
          > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
          > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
          > >  
          > >  
          > >  
          > >  
          > >
          > >
          > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
          > >
          > >
          > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
          > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
          > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
          > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
          > >
          > >
          > >  
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
          > >
          > > Greg
          > >
          > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
          > >
          >


        • Jack
          Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability
          Message 4 of 19 , Feb 8, 2011
          • 0 Attachment
            Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?

            Cheers Phil

            --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
            >
            > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
            > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
            > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
            > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
            > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
            > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
            > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
            > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
            > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
            > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
            > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
            > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
            > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
            > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
            > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
            > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
            > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
            > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
            > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
            >
            > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
            > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
            > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
            > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
            >
            >
            >  
            >
            >
            >
            > Hello Ken,
            >
            > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
            >
            > Cheers Phil.
            >
            > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
            > >
            > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
            > >
            > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
            > >
            > >
            > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
            > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
            > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
            > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
            > >
            > >
            > >  
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
            > >
            > > Cheers Phil.
            > >
            > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
            > > > last year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
            > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy. 
            > > >  
            > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
            > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, it swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
            > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
            > > >  
            > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
            > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
            > > > kinda inspired by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
            > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
            > > >  
            > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
            > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
            > > >  
            > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
            > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
            > > >  
            > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hiney in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
            > > >  
            > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
            > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
            > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
            > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
            > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
            > > >  
            > > > wasted sheet? the four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
            > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
            > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
            > > >  
            > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
            > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
            > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'd probably lose a tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for the extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
            > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
            > > >  
            > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
            > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
            > > >  
            > > >  
            > > >  
            > > >  
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
            > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
            > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
            > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >  
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
            > > >
            > > > Greg
            > > >
            > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
            > > >
            > >
            >
          • KEN
            have built a couple 1 sheet skiffs from simplicity boats going with very small inside chine logs.. about 3/8x3/8. first its straight ziptied and glued, then
            Message 5 of 19 , Feb 9, 2011
            • 0 Attachment
              have built a couple 1 sheet skiffs from simplicity boats going with very small inside chine logs.. about 3/8x3/8. first its straight ziptied and glued, then those are pulled to ziptie and glue in the chine logs.. makes a lot of holes but they get resin and taped over anyhow.
              I'd pushed em widthwise for as many sq in floor as I could manage (bouyancy!).
              the one for rowing, a guy had bought for his son as a bed. the other has mast, center daggerboard, and rudder. never sailed so I figured it'd be a good way to learn how.
               
              is that you who'd built the prism-dory82 to fold flat? nice job, but if so, you probably know what I'm talking about.. theyre kinda "spinny" for having that short waterline, if you try to move along quickly.. but really good weight capacity. the one I'd built was 26-11-11 on the main cuts, ended up giving it a motor well for a minn kota 30lb thrust trolling motor.
               
              I'd thought about svensons.com "handy andy", had worked it out for 8 foot sheet, if I remember it'd been 10-7/8" instead of 12" steps, with all else the same. it'd probably fold up the same way too.. but thats also needing more than one sheet.
               
              currently I'm working on an 11-12' scaled down "Henley Slipper Launch" approximation..
              it's going to be a single bench seat for 2 persons, I like the "negative transom" look, but am doing it a bit differently.. some methods borrowed from svensons "Bebop", but with frames crowned 2" for the hulls bottom, keel stringer, couple bilge stringers, chine and gunwale stringers.. the skeleton is looking good :)
               
              2 years back I'd built a slightly narrowed "Bebop" powered with a 250w 24v 2500rpm scooter motor I ran on 12v (half those values). direct drive thru skeg, 5/16 rod is a perfect fit to 3/8" hard brake line (.005-.006 clearance).. to a T-6 prop from http://youngprops.com/ .
              and its "kits" page http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/motor.html has a 900w and smaller powering options at pretty reasonable prices. (746w = 1hp).
              1.2 hp at "gofast.com" speed calculator is projecting 10-11 mph tops (900w) at 630lb.
              -but I have a 36lb thrust minn-kota on hand already too (400w = 1/2hp). its projecting a good 7-8mph if the hull is slick enough... 41" wide 2" convex oughtta be slippery.
              400w on 12v also leaves it 1 battery (70lbs) lighter and is more convenient.
               
              for my canoe/kayak idea, 23 is probably about as wide as it can be conveniently pushed with 1 sheet, without going crazy trying to build up some gunwale height. know what youre saying about stability too! I'd think it'd get some stability for having that 11'6" waterline.
               
              the dory82 I'd built (26" width)
              2.2' x 5.5' = 12.1 sq ft. 5.5 being about the waterline for how ends tip up.
              if its sitting lower for some weight, 2.2 x 6' = 13.2 sq ft.
               
              8 x 1.9 = 15.2 sq ft (triangle-straight-triangle x width = area)
              so theres maybe 1.5 sq ft each side more.. but not really to beam either..
              but add some 3" worth of rocker, an inch lower center of gravity for the 10 degree sandwiched keel, then an inch to width for the side flare thats trying to resist heeling...
              the 19" wide floor of this 1st one dont feel horribly tippy, but thats me too.
              the almost full length waterline sure does make for better tracking at speed.
               
              after this "henley slipper" I'm going to go for building another of these canoes with the width added, it'd probably handle the river better with myself and some light gear along. it'll be a while before I get to it, but real quick once started, simple as it is. the 1st one was done about a week, couple hrs per afternoon.
               
              I'm also planning to build (sometime!) a 2 sheet skiff modified of simplicityboats "summer breeze". with straightening the chines mid-point aft to get rid of the rocker, for planing with a little 6hp johnson I have kicking around here..  it'd probably come up 11' 7" after widening a couple inches. I'm also thinking to inset the motorboard 8-10", it gives away near a sq ft of buoyancy, but its also putting MY weight a foot further forward without need for a tiller extension, and letting the resultant "tails" behave as afterplane trim tabs to help it ride flat. those tails wouldnt need to be at 15 degrees either, so that much less buoyancy is "given away" really.
              looking at http://www.simplicityboats.com/bottomlayout.gif theres plenty room to go 4-5" wider and continue near straight from mid on aft, which ought to plane with 2 aboard if somewhat light. I'm also thinking to borrow similar seat configuration from James Brett's "UniCat" http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/brett/unicat2.4/index.htm for how it lends itself to passengers centered weight trimming its balance, and for the floatation+storage it'd add. the little 6hp johnson has a prop with a little less pitch than standard, so I might think about these same ideas to the larger "DayDream" http://www.simplicityboats.com/LCB.htm
              giving it the "Clarence River Dory" motor well treatment..  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/crd/index.htm
              but keeping the beam (at floor) to 42" mid, and 38-39" at transom for really near flat.
              a little less shoving water aside at displacement speeds and when slow planing. the lesser prop pitch, waterline length and square footage, it'd probably have the grunt to get 2-3 persons on slow plane, or carry several.. http://www.simplicityboats.com/daydreamSA.html
              about 1/2 down the page theres a pic with 7 aboard it omg overload..
              larger would probably be more saleable than smaller. love building and run out of storage space.. whoops!
               
              boat on the brain? GUILTY!!
              I'm also liking Jim Michalaks AF4b for a 10hp long shaft honda 4 stroke I have kicking around that was a sailboat pusher (low hrs on it really). another engine with a gruntish slightly lower pitched prop. speed calculator (after slip figured in) is estimating 18-19 mph top speed at WOT at 1100lb loading, where I'd hope for 13-14mph slow planing at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, and some decent range from a 6 gallon tank..

              --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:

              From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
              Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
              To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM

               
              Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?

              Cheers Phil

              --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
              >
              > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
              > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
              > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
              > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
              > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
              > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
              > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
              > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
              > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
              > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
              > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
              > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
              > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
              > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
              > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
              > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
              > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
              > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
              > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
              >
              > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
              > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
              > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
              > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
              >
              >
              >  
              >
              >
              >
              > Hello Ken,
              >
              > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
              >
              > Cheers Phil.
              >
              > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
              > >
              > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
              > >
              > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
              > >
              > >
              > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
              > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
              > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
              > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
              > >
              > >
              > >  
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
              > >
              > > Cheers Phil.
              > >
              > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
              > > > last year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
              > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy. 
              > > >  
              > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
              > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, it swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
              > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
              > > >  
              > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
              > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
              > > > kinda inspired by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
              > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
              > > >  
              > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
              > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
              > > >  
              > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
              > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
              > > >  
              > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hiney in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
              > > >  
              > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
              > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
              > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
              > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
              > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
              > > >  
              > > > wasted sheet? the four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
              > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
              > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
              > > >  
              > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
              > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
              > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'd probably lose a tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for the extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
              > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
              > > >  
              > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
              > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
              > > >  
              > > >  
              > > >  
              > > >  
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
              > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
              > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
              > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >  
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
              > > >
              > > > Greg
              > > >
              > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
              > > >
              > >
              >



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            • Jack
              Wow great job Ken, how did you go with the stitch and glue process? Ive messed around with polythene glue and glass tape with mixed results and epoxy paint for
              Message 6 of 19 , Feb 12, 2011
              • 0 Attachment
                Wow great job Ken, how did you go with the stitch and glue process? Ive messed around with polythene glue and glass tape with mixed results and epoxy paint for abrasion resistance.

                Prisim dory folding was not mine.

                Good luck with the Slipper, tricky project.

                Ive got the same electric Min-Kota,ive never used it on a one sheeter, ive used my sevylor electric motor with good results providing there is no head wind.

                If you have any good stitch and glue tips or paint tips let us know Ken?

                Cheers Phil.

                --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                >
                > have built a couple 1 sheet skiffs from simplicity boats going with very small inside chine logs.. about 3/8x3/8. first its straight ziptied and glued, then those are pulled to ziptie and glue in the chine logs.. makes a lot of holes but they get resin and taped over anyhow.
                > I'd pushed em widthwise for as many sq in floor as I could manage (bouyancy!).
                > the one for rowing, a guy had bought for his son as a bed. the other has mast, center daggerboard, and rudder. never sailed so I figured it'd be a good way to learn how.
                >  
                > is that you who'd built the prism-dory82 to fold flat? nice job, but if so, you probably know what I'm talking about.. theyre kinda "spinny" for having that short waterline, if you try to move along quickly.. but really good weight capacity. the one I'd built was 26-11-11 on the main cuts, ended up giving it a motor well for a minn kota 30lb thrust trolling motor.
                >  
                > I'd thought about svensons.com "handy andy", had worked it out for 8 foot sheet, if I remember it'd been 10-7/8" instead of 12" steps, with all else the same. it'd probably fold up the same way too.. but thats also needing more than one sheet.
                >  
                > currently I'm working on an 11-12' scaled down "Henley Slipper Launch" approximation..
                > (didnt buy plans theyre pretty darn steep!) http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/sf/motor/classic/henley18/index.htm
                > it's going to be a single bench seat for 2 persons, I like the "negative transom" look, but am doing it a bit differently.. some methods borrowed from svensons "Bebop", but with frames crowned 2" for the hulls bottom, keel stringer, couple bilge stringers, chine and gunwale stringers.. the skeleton is looking good :)
                >  
                > 2 years back I'd built a slightly narrowed "Bebop" powered with a 250w 24v 2500rpm scooter motor I ran on 12v (half those values). direct drive thru skeg, 5/16 rod is a perfect fit to 3/8" hard brake line (.005-.006 clearance).. to a T-6 prop from http://youngprops.com/%c3%82%c2%a0.
                > recently I'd stumbled into http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24voltmotors.html
                > and its "kits" page http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/motor.html%c3%82%c2%a0has a 900w and smaller powering options at pretty reasonable prices. (746w = 1hp).
                > 1.2 hp at "gofast.com" speed calculator is projecting 10-11 mph tops (900w) at 630lb.
                > -but I have a 36lb thrust minn-kota on hand already too (400w = 1/2hp). its projecting a good 7-8mph if the hull is slick enough... 41" wide 2" convex oughtta be slippery.
                > 400w on 12v also leaves it 1 battery (70lbs) lighter and is more convenient.
                >  
                > for my canoe/kayak idea, 23 is probably about as wide as it can be conveniently pushed with 1 sheet, without going crazy trying to build up some gunwale height. know what youre saying about stability too! I'd think it'd get some stability for having that 11'6" waterline.
                >  
                > the dory82 I'd built (26" width)
                > 2.2' x 5.5' = 12.1 sq ft. 5.5 being about the waterline for how ends tip up.
                > if its sitting lower for some weight, 2.2 x 6' = 13.2 sq ft.
                >  
                > 8 x 1.9 = 15.2 sq ft (triangle-straight-triangle x width = area)
                > so theres maybe 1.5 sq ft each side more.. but not really to beam either..
                > but add some 3" worth of rocker, an inch lower center of gravity for the 10 degree sandwiched keel, then an inch to width for the side flare thats trying to resist heeling...
                > the 19" wide floor of this 1st one dont feel horribly tippy, but thats me too.
                > the almost full length waterline sure does make for better tracking at speed.
                >  
                > after this "henley slipper" I'm going to go for building another of these canoes with the width added, it'd probably handle the river better with myself and some light gear along. it'll be a while before I get to it, but real quick once started, simple as it is. the 1st one was done about a week, couple hrs per afternoon.
                >  
                > I'm also planning to build (sometime!) a 2 sheet skiff modified of simplicityboats "summer breeze". with straightening the chines mid-point aft to get rid of the rocker, for planing with a little 6hp johnson I have kicking around here..  it'd probably come up 11' 7" after widening a couple inches. I'm also thinking to inset the motorboard 8-10", it gives away near a sq ft of buoyancy, but its also putting MY weight a foot further forward without need for a tiller extension, and letting the resultant "tails" behave as afterplane trim tabs to help it ride flat. those tails wouldnt need to be at 15 degrees either, so that much less buoyancy is "given away" really.
                > looking at http://www.simplicityboats.com/bottomlayout.gif%c3%82%c2%a0theres plenty room to go 4-5" wider and continue near straight from mid on aft, which ought to plane with 2 aboard if somewhat light. I'm also thinking to borrow similar seat configuration from James Brett's "UniCat" http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/brett/unicat2.4/index.htm%c3%82%c2%a0for how it lends itself to passengers centered weight trimming its balance, and for the floatation+storage it'd add. the little 6hp johnson has a prop with a little less pitch than standard, so I might think about these same ideas to the larger "DayDream" http://www.simplicityboats.com/LCB.htm
                > giving it the "Clarence River Dory" motor well treatment..  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/crd/index.htm
                > but keeping the beam (at floor) to 42" mid, and 38-39" at transom for really near flat.
                > a little less shoving water aside at displacement speeds and when slow planing. the lesser prop pitch, waterline length and square footage, it'd probably have the grunt to get 2-3 persons on slow plane, or carry several.. http://www.simplicityboats.com/daydreamSA.html
                > about 1/2 down the page theres a pic with 7 aboard it omg overload..
                > larger would probably be more saleable than smaller. love building and run out of storage space.. whoops!
                >  
                > boat on the brain? GUILTY!!
                > I'm also liking Jim Michalaks AF4b for a 10hp long shaft honda 4 stroke I have kicking around that was a sailboat pusher (low hrs on it really). another engine with a gruntish slightly lower pitched prop. speed calculator (after slip figured in) is estimating 18-19 mph top speed at WOT at 1100lb loading, where I'd hope for 13-14mph slow planing at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, and some decent range from a 6 gallon tank..
                >
                > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                >
                >
                > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                >
                >
                >  
                >
                >
                >
                > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                >
                > Cheers Phil
                >
                > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                > >
                > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                > >
                > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                > >
                > >
                > >  
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > Hello Ken,
                > >
                > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                > >
                > > Cheers Phil.
                > >
                > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
                > > >
                > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >  
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                > > >
                > > > Cheers Phil.
                > > >
                > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                > > > > lastÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                > > > >
                > > > > Greg
                > > > >
                > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > ____________________________________________________________________________________
                > It's here! Your new message!
                > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
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              • KEN
                honestly I avoid stitch and glue filleting, opting for small inside chine logs and taped outside. ziptie-glue, clip, ziptie-glue in the small chine logs.. for
                Message 7 of 19 , Feb 13, 2011
                • 0 Attachment
                  honestly I avoid stitch and glue filleting, opting for small inside chine logs and taped outside.
                  ziptie-glue, clip, ziptie-glue in the small chine logs.. for the smaller curvy projects.
                  larger straighter projects I like inside chine logs about 1/2-5/8 sq. glue and screw.
                  after its dried well, pull the screws and fill, then tape or double tape seams.
                   
                  when it comes to painting, I AM OOPSLOP! theres no such thing as "guaranteed one coat coverage" with me house painting, I ALWAYS work it too far too thin, guaranteed!
                  so 3-4 thin coats of resin to the outside in 3-4 days.. then 3-4 thin coats of paint over.
                   
                  hannu says a good semi-gloss exterior latex is great stuff, I like epoxy-enamel concrete floor paint, is about 25 a gallon for a light gray that can be colored with a small can of enamel. I like to keep some of the light gray for the inside anyhow. its real thin runny stuff that can get deep into joints and grabs like glue. same tactics, give it over a week to harden up real good. hannu is probably right about exterior semi-gloss latex becoming thicker and harder than something oilbase.
                   
                  this slipper launch toy, I'm going to go with "Coat It" http://www.glazecoat.com/Coat%20it.htm , the hulls skin is only 6mm chinese meranti luan (5-6 laminates in that 6mm)
                  wish they made that stuff here in the US instead! some luan is a single core with veneers, might be ok for subfloor overlayment sure..  this other stuff like a micro ply and its the same price, 11 bucks a sheet. just got the sides skinned and trimmed today. the Coat It stuff will add a couple mm thickness to it and a LOT of abrasion resistance, the big kit will be just enough to do the whole outside of the hull, about 2-1/4 steet worth, if I work it fast-far.
                   
                  tip? I grabbed a 40 grit 36"x4" belt sander belt, cut the seam and stapled it to a 1x3 for a fairing sander, good stuff for long smooth lines before attaching the skin to the skeleton.
                  wish I HAD a big 36" belt sander sometimes, but a 3 foot long rough as all hell sanding block sure is handy! (wear gloves using it, it'll rip the skin off yer thumbs in a hurry)
                  its great when youre working frames and stringers, bigger projects, but I can picture other situations where something like that would be handy to whip up.
                  its gonna be a couple days sanding-fairing with that before the bottom gets skinned, ouch.

                  --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:

                  From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                  Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                  To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                  Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 9:48 PM

                   
                  Wow great job Ken, how did you go with the stitch and glue process? Ive messed around with polythene glue and glass tape with mixed results and epoxy paint for abrasion resistance.

                  Prisim dory folding was not mine.

                  Good luck with the Slipper, tricky project.

                  Ive got the same electric Min-Kota,ive never used it on a one sheeter, ive used my sevylor electric motor with good results providing there is no head wind.

                  If you have any good stitch and glue tips or paint tips let us know Ken?

                  Cheers Phil.

                  --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > have built a couple 1 sheet skiffs from simplicity boats going with very small inside chine logs.. about 3/8x3/8. first its straight ziptied and glued, then those are pulled to ziptie and glue in the chine logs.. makes a lot of holes but they get resin and taped over anyhow.
                  > I'd pushed em widthwise for as many sq in floor as I could manage (bouyancy!).
                  > the one for rowing, a guy had bought for his son as a bed. the other has mast, center daggerboard, and rudder. never sailed so I figured it'd be a good way to learn how.
                  >  
                  > is that you who'd built the prism-dory82 to fold flat? nice job, but if so, you probably know what I'm talking about.. theyre kinda "spinny" for having that short waterline, if you try to move along quickly.. but really good weight capacity. the one I'd built was 26-11-11 on the main cuts, ended up giving it a motor well for a minn kota 30lb thrust trolling motor.
                  >  
                  > I'd thought about svensons.com "handy andy", had worked it out for 8 foot sheet, if I remember it'd been 10-7/8" instead of 12" steps, with all else the same. it'd probably fold up the same way too.. but thats also needing more than one sheet.
                  >  
                  > currently I'm working on an 11-12' scaled down "Henley Slipper Launch" approximation..
                  > (didnt buy plans theyre pretty darn steep!) http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/sf/motor/classic/henley18/index.htm
                  > it's going to be a single bench seat for 2 persons, I like the "negative transom" look, but am doing it a bit differently.. some methods borrowed from svensons "Bebop", but with frames crowned 2" for the hulls bottom, keel stringer, couple bilge stringers, chine and gunwale stringers.. the skeleton is looking good :)
                  >  
                  > 2 years back I'd built a slightly narrowed "Bebop" powered with a 250w 24v 2500rpm scooter motor I ran on 12v (half those values). direct drive thru skeg, 5/16 rod is a perfect fit to 3/8" hard brake line (.005-.006 clearance).. to a T-6 prop from http://youngprops.com/ .
                  > recently I'd stumbled into http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24voltmotors.html
                  > and its "kits" page http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/motor.html has a 900w and smaller powering options at pretty reasonable prices. (746w = 1hp).
                  > 1.2 hp at "gofast.com" speed calculator is projecting 10-11 mph tops (900w) at 630lb.
                  > -but I have a 36lb thrust minn-kota on hand already too (400w = 1/2hp). its projecting a good 7-8mph if the hull is slick enough... 41" wide 2" convex oughtta be slippery.
                  > 400w on 12v also leaves it 1 battery (70lbs) lighter and is more convenient.
                  >  
                  > for my canoe/kayak idea, 23 is probably about as wide as it can be conveniently pushed with 1 sheet, without going crazy trying to build up some gunwale height. know what youre saying about stability too! I'd think it'd get some stability for having that 11'6" waterline.
                  >  
                  > the dory82 I'd built (26" width)
                  > 2.2' x 5.5' = 12.1 sq ft. 5.5 being about the waterline for how ends tip up.
                  > if its sitting lower for some weight, 2.2 x 6' = 13.2 sq ft.
                  >  
                  > 8 x 1.9 = 15.2 sq ft (triangle-straight-triangle x width = area)
                  > so theres maybe 1.5 sq ft each side more.. but not really to beam either..
                  > but add some 3" worth of rocker, an inch lower center of gravity for the 10 degree sandwiched keel, then an inch to width for the side flare thats trying to resist heeling...
                  > the 19" wide floor of this 1st one dont feel horribly tippy, but thats me too.
                  > the almost full length waterline sure does make for better tracking at speed.
                  >  
                  > after this "henley slipper" I'm going to go for building another of these canoes with the width added, it'd probably handle the river better with myself and some light gear along. it'll be a while before I get to it, but real quick once started, simple as it is. the 1st one was done about a week, couple hrs per afternoon.
                  >  
                  > I'm also planning to build (sometime!) a 2 sheet skiff modified of simplicityboats "summer breeze". with straightening the chines mid-point aft to get rid of the rocker, for planing with a little 6hp johnson I have kicking around here..  it'd probably come up 11' 7" after widening a couple inches. I'm also thinking to inset the motorboard 8-10", it gives away near a sq ft of buoyancy, but its also putting MY weight a foot further forward without need for a tiller extension, and letting the resultant "tails" behave as afterplane trim tabs to help it ride flat. those tails wouldnt need to be at 15 degrees either, so that much less buoyancy is "given away" really.
                  > looking at http://www.simplicityboats.com/bottomlayout.gif theres plenty room to go 4-5" wider and continue near straight from mid on aft, which ought to plane with 2 aboard if somewhat light. I'm also thinking to borrow similar seat configuration from James Brett's "UniCat" http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/brett/unicat2.4/index.htm for how it lends itself to passengers centered weight trimming its balance, and for the floatation+storage it'd add. the little 6hp johnson has a prop with a little less pitch than standard, so I might think about these same ideas to the larger "DayDream" http://www.simplicityboats.com/LCB.htm
                  > giving it the "Clarence River Dory" motor well treatment..  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/crd/index.htm
                  > but keeping the beam (at floor) to 42" mid, and 38-39" at transom for really near flat.
                  > a little less shoving water aside at displacement speeds and when slow planing. the lesser prop pitch, waterline length and square footage, it'd probably have the grunt to get 2-3 persons on slow plane, or carry several.. http://www.simplicityboats.com/daydreamSA.html
                  > about 1/2 down the page theres a pic with 7 aboard it omg overload..
                  > larger would probably be more saleable than smaller. love building and run out of storage space.. whoops!
                  >  
                  > boat on the brain? GUILTY!!
                  > I'm also liking Jim Michalaks AF4b for a 10hp long shaft honda 4 stroke I have kicking around that was a sailboat pusher (low hrs on it really). another engine with a gruntish slightly lower pitched prop. speed calculator (after slip figured in) is estimating 18-19 mph top speed at WOT at 1100lb loading, where I'd hope for 13-14mph slow planing at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, and some decent range from a 6 gallon tank..
                  >
                  > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                  > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                  > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                  > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                  >
                  >
                  >  
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                  >
                  > Cheers Phil
                  >
                  > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                  > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                  > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                  > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                  > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                  > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                  > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                  > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                  > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                  > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                  > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                  > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                  > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                  > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                  > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                  > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                  > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                  > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                  > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                  > >
                  > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                  > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                  > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                  > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >  
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Hello Ken,
                  > >
                  > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                  > >
                  > > Cheers Phil.
                  > >
                  > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
                  > > >
                  > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                  > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                  > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                  > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >  
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                  > > >
                  > > > Cheers Phil.
                  > > >
                  > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                  > > > > lastÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                  > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                  > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                  > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                  > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                  > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                  > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                  > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                  > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                  > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                  > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                  > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                  > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                  > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                  > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                  > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                  > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                  > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                  > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                  > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                  > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                  > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Greg
                  > > > >
                  > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > __________________________________________________________
                  > It's here! Your new message!
                  > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
                  > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
                  >


                • Jack
                  Cheers Ken for the tips, I prefer exterior chine logs flat bottom craft over stitch and glue, but know stitch and glue stays leak prof for longer and needs
                  Message 8 of 19 , Feb 16, 2011
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                    Cheers Ken for the tips, I prefer exterior chine logs flat bottom craft over stitch and glue, but know stitch and glue stays leak prof for longer and needs less maintenance.

                    Paint - epoxy pigmented white is a good base, then gel coat rolled on thin is a good hard wearing paint system.

                    any more photos of the kayak design in action, its a great idea, thanks for sending details and photos?

                    Cheers Phil.

                    --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > honestly I avoid stitch and glue filleting, opting for small inside chine logs and taped outside.
                    > ziptie-glue, clip, ziptie-glue in the small chine logs.. for the smaller curvy projects.
                    > larger straighter projects I like inside chine logs about 1/2-5/8 sq. glue and screw.
                    > after its dried well, pull the screws and fill, then tape or double tape seams.
                    >  
                    > when it comes to painting, I AM OOPSLOP! theres no such thing as "guaranteed one coat coverage" with me house painting, I ALWAYS work it too far too thin, guaranteed!
                    > so 3-4 thin coats of resin to the outside in 3-4 days.. then 3-4 thin coats of paint over.
                    >  
                    > hannu says a good semi-gloss exterior latex is great stuff, I like epoxy-enamel concrete floor paint, is about 25 a gallon for a light gray that can be colored with a small can of enamel. I like to keep some of the light gray for the inside anyhow. its real thin runny stuff that can get deep into joints and grabs like glue. same tactics, give it over a week to harden up real good. hannu is probably right about exterior semi-gloss latex becoming thicker and harder than something oilbase.
                    >  
                    > this slipper launch toy, I'm going to go with "Coat It" http://www.glazecoat.com/Coat%20it.htm%c3%82%c2%a0, the hulls skin is only 6mm chinese meranti luan (5-6 laminates in that 6mm)
                    > wish they made that stuff here in the US instead! some luan is a single core with veneers, might be ok for subfloor overlayment sure..  this other stuff like a micro ply and its the same price, 11 bucks a sheet. just got the sides skinned and trimmed today. the Coat It stuff will add a couple mm thickness to it and a LOT of abrasion resistance, the big kit will be just enough to do the whole outside of the hull, about 2-1/4 steet worth, if I work it fast-far.
                    >  
                    > tip? I grabbed a 40 grit 36"x4" belt sander belt, cut the seam and stapled it to a 1x3 for a fairing sander, good stuff for long smooth lines before attaching the skin to the skeleton.
                    > wish I HAD a big 36" belt sander sometimes, but a 3 foot long rough as all hell sanding block sure is handy! (wear gloves using it, it'll rip the skin off yer thumbs in a hurry)
                    > its great when youre working frames and stringers, bigger projects, but I can picture other situations where something like that would be handy to whip up.
                    > its gonna be a couple days sanding-fairing with that before the bottom gets skinned, ouch.
                    >
                    > --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                    >
                    >
                    > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                    > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                    > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                    > Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 9:48 PM
                    >
                    >
                    >  
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > Wow great job Ken, how did you go with the stitch and glue process? Ive messed around with polythene glue and glass tape with mixed results and epoxy paint for abrasion resistance.
                    >
                    > Prisim dory folding was not mine.
                    >
                    > Good luck with the Slipper, tricky project.
                    >
                    > Ive got the same electric Min-Kota,ive never used it on a one sheeter, ive used my sevylor electric motor with good results providing there is no head wind.
                    >
                    > If you have any good stitch and glue tips or paint tips let us know Ken?
                    >
                    > Cheers Phil.
                    >
                    > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > have built a couple 1 sheet skiffs from simplicity boats going with very small inside chine logs.. about 3/8x3/8. first its straight ziptied and glued, then those are pulled to ziptie and glue in the chine logs.. makes a lot of holes but they get resin and taped over anyhow.
                    > > I'd pushed em widthwise for as many sq in floor as I could manage (bouyancy!).
                    > > the one for rowing, a guy had bought for his son as a bed. the other has mast, center daggerboard, and rudder. never sailed so I figured it'd be a good way to learn how.
                    > >  
                    > > is that you who'd built the prism-dory82 to fold flat? nice job, but if so, you probably know what I'm talking about.. theyre kinda "spinny" for having that short waterline, if you try to move along quickly.. but really good weight capacity. the one I'd built was 26-11-11 on the main cuts, ended up giving it a motor well for a minn kota 30lb thrust trolling motor.
                    > >  
                    > > I'd thought about svensons.com "handy andy", had worked it out for 8 foot sheet, if I remember it'd been 10-7/8" instead of 12" steps, with all else the same. it'd probably fold up the same way too.. but thats also needing more than one sheet.
                    > >  
                    > > currently I'm working on an 11-12' scaled down "Henley Slipper Launch" approximation..
                    > > (didnt buy plans theyre pretty darn steep!) http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/sf/motor/classic/henley18/index.htm
                    > > it's going to be a single bench seat for 2 persons, I like the "negative transom" look, but am doing it a bit differently.. some methods borrowed from svensons "Bebop", but with frames crowned 2" for the hulls bottom, keel stringer, couple bilge stringers, chine and gunwale stringers.. the skeleton is looking good :)
                    > >  
                    > > 2 years back I'd built a slightly narrowed "Bebop" powered with a 250w 24v 2500rpm scooter motor I ran on 12v (half those values). direct drive thru skeg, 5/16 rod is a perfect fit to 3/8" hard brake line (.005-.006 clearance).. to a T-6 prop from http://youngprops.com/%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0.
                    > > recently I'd stumbled into http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24voltmotors.html
                    > > and its "kits" page http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/motor.html%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0has a 900w and smaller powering options at pretty reasonable prices. (746w = 1hp).
                    > > 1.2 hp at "gofast.com" speed calculator is projecting 10-11 mph tops (900w) at 630lb.
                    > > -but I have a 36lb thrust minn-kota on hand already too (400w = 1/2hp). its projecting a good 7-8mph if the hull is slick enough... 41" wide 2" convex oughtta be slippery.
                    > > 400w on 12v also leaves it 1 battery (70lbs) lighter and is more convenient.
                    > >  
                    > > for my canoe/kayak idea, 23 is probably about as wide as it can be conveniently pushed with 1 sheet, without going crazy trying to build up some gunwale height. know what youre saying about stability too! I'd think it'd get some stability for having that 11'6" waterline.
                    > >  
                    > > the dory82 I'd built (26" width)
                    > > 2.2' x 5.5' = 12.1 sq ft. 5.5 being about the waterline for how ends tip up.
                    > > if its sitting lower for some weight, 2.2 x 6' = 13.2 sq ft.
                    > >  
                    > > 8 x 1.9 = 15.2 sq ft (triangle-straight-triangle x width = area)
                    > > so theres maybe 1.5 sq ft each side more.. but not really to beam either..
                    > > but add some 3" worth of rocker, an inch lower center of gravity for the 10 degree sandwiched keel, then an inch to width for the side flare thats trying to resist heeling...
                    > > the 19" wide floor of this 1st one dont feel horribly tippy, but thats me too.
                    > > the almost full length waterline sure does make for better tracking at speed.
                    > >  
                    > > after this "henley slipper" I'm going to go for building another of these canoes with the width added, it'd probably handle the river better with myself and some light gear along. it'll be a while before I get to it, but real quick once started, simple as it is. the 1st one was done about a week, couple hrs per afternoon.
                    > >  
                    > > I'm also planning to build (sometime!) a 2 sheet skiff modified of simplicityboats "summer breeze". with straightening the chines mid-point aft to get rid of the rocker, for planing with a little 6hp johnson I have kicking around here..  it'd probably come up 11' 7" after widening a couple inches. I'm also thinking to inset the motorboard 8-10", it gives away near a sq ft of buoyancy, but its also putting MY weight a foot further forward without need for a tiller extension, and letting the resultant "tails" behave as afterplane trim tabs to help it ride flat. those tails wouldnt need to be at 15 degrees either, so that much less buoyancy is "given away" really.
                    > > looking at http://www.simplicityboats.com/bottomlayout.gif%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0theres plenty room to go 4-5" wider and continue near straight from mid on aft, which ought to plane with 2 aboard if somewhat light. I'm also thinking to borrow similar seat configuration from James Brett's "UniCat" http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/brett/unicat2.4/index.htm%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0for how it lends itself to passengers centered weight trimming its balance, and for the floatation+storage it'd add. the little 6hp johnson has a prop with a little less pitch than standard, so I might think about these same ideas to the larger "DayDream" http://www.simplicityboats.com/LCB.htm
                    > > giving it the "Clarence River Dory" motor well treatment..  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/crd/index.htm
                    > > but keeping the beam (at floor) to 42" mid, and 38-39" at transom for really near flat.
                    > > a little less shoving water aside at displacement speeds and when slow planing. the lesser prop pitch, waterline length and square footage, it'd probably have the grunt to get 2-3 persons on slow plane, or carry several.. http://www.simplicityboats.com/daydreamSA.html
                    > > about 1/2 down the page theres a pic with 7 aboard it omg overload..
                    > > larger would probably be more saleable than smaller. love building and run out of storage space.. whoops!
                    > >  
                    > > boat on the brain? GUILTY!!
                    > > I'm also liking Jim Michalaks AF4b for a 10hp long shaft honda 4 stroke I have kicking around that was a sailboat pusher (low hrs on it really). another engine with a gruntish slightly lower pitched prop. speed calculator (after slip figured in) is estimating 18-19 mph top speed at WOT at 1100lb loading, where I'd hope for 13-14mph slow planing at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, and some decent range from a 6 gallon tank..
                    > >
                    > > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                    > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                    > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                    > > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >  
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                    > >
                    > > Cheers Phil
                    > >
                    > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                    > > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                    > > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                    > > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                    > > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                    > > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                    > > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                    > > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                    > > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                    > > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                    > > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                    > > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                    > > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                    > > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                    > > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                    > > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                    > > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                    > > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                    > > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                    > > >
                    > > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                    > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                    > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                    > > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >  
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > Hello Ken,
                    > > >
                    > > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                    > > >
                    > > > Cheers Phil.
                    > > >
                    > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floorÃÆ'‚  :)
                    > > > >
                    > > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                    > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                    > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                    > > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Cheers Phil.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                    > > > > > lastÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                    > > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                    > > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                    > > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                    > > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                    > > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                    > > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                    > > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                    > > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                    > > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                    > > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                    > > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                    > > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                    > > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                    > > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                    > > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                    > > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                    > > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                    > > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                    > > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                    > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                    > > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Greg
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > __________________________________________________________
                    > > It's here! Your new message!
                    > > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
                    > > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
                    > >
                    >
                  • KEN
                    unfortunately didnt have anyone with to take pics out testing that kayak toy, so no pics playing in it yet (its still COLD here now too).   inside-outside
                    Message 9 of 19 , Feb 17, 2011
                    • 0 Attachment
                      unfortunately didnt have anyone with to take pics out testing that kayak toy, so no pics playing in it yet (its still COLD here now too).
                       
                      inside-outside chine logs.. fun topic-debate there! outside chine logs can protect against a hit to the bottom corners and sure can be easier to place-replace, but with one sheeters youre giving up some square and cubic inches that add up really fast.
                       
                      if theyre just 1/2" wide (is small) there goes a square inch, 12 sq inches every foot,
                      96 sq in in 8 foot, and if youre running 4" draft it becomes 384 cubic inches.
                      1728 (cu in per ft) / 384 = 4.5, so youre only giving up about 15 lb buoyancy to that.
                      if youre 150 lbs tho, its also about 10%. that can be a lot to a one sheet boat.
                      3/4" logs.. just multipy by 1.5 for 576 cu in, 1/3 cu ft, maybe 21 lb buoyancy loss.
                      thats all at an estimated-approximated 4" draft, not really "big" losses either.
                       
                      with bigger boats, inside-outside chine logs are about the same if a bottom needs replacing, old bottom cut out couple inches from edges and you have the meat of the chine logs to glue-screw into, where real filleted stitch and glue.. nope! outside chine logs if tall enough, you have surface area for glass tape and resin to grab to, inside chine logs youre right to the skin surfaces without any steps to stop/trim at. just kinda works out better overall, my opinion.
                      -which doesnt matter with my little 3/8x3/8 ziptie-glued in inside chine logs, there sure isnt any real meat to land screws or nails into! not the case with the kayak toy where inside chine logs are about 5/8x5/8, and with that V sandwiched bottom you sure arent going to "just replace it" either lol. to the plus side, when a one sheeter gets eaten up its not a biggie expense or effort to just whip out another one to replace it completely.
                       
                      speakin of.. have ya started whippin up a kayak already? it sure didnt take long day 1 to have the keel sandwiched bottom glued-screwed (and tattood?) with the chine logs glued and clamped on, sides lengths butted together.. day 2 the sides attached (from center outward) with the construction adhesive and temp screws (minor single handed wrestling), bow stem twigs glued and lashed in with zipties, then the gunwales glued-screwed-clamped on. -oh hey its lookin like a canoe! within 24-30 hrs and maybe 6-7 hr work.
                       
                      "instant-boat" fast and simple was the design intent. day 3 was the day of rest to let that construction adhesive fully harden up, day 4 was upside down screws out and hog down the chines with the belt sander, tape seams and resin coat the beastie early morning and 2nd coat that night. after that its just the breastplates and spreaders... and a paintjob.
                      I was paddling on the pond near here, day 10 or 11 with the paint hardened a couple days worth already (yeah I rushed through it a bit). dont think there was even 20 hr into the build-finish and maybe a total of 55 bucks between wood, glue, resin, paint, for a 12' kayak toy.
                      of course it wont handle the bashings like a commercial plastic job will take, it is what it is, an easy build that paddles pretty fast with pretty good tracking.
                       
                      the "mini henley slipper launch" is rolling along, faired, bottom skinned, and yesterday the motor well is in, today is butchering the 36lb MK trolling motor to fit.. gonna take a while to make the steering wheel and spool, and the spool for the trolling motor shaft, placing and mounting transfer pulleys, tensioning springs etc.. theres also "wire stretching" to get the speed control to the dashboard, lots to do before its flipped again for seam taping and a gallon of "Coat It" to the shell.. then another flip to begin interior paint+finishing+decking and everything else involved. a neighbor came saw it other day, is wanting now too..
                      for some 10-20hp worth of little hotrod, funfun!


                      --- On Wed, 2/16/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:

                      From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                      Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                      To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                      Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2011, 1:41 PM

                       
                      Cheers Ken for the tips, I prefer exterior chine logs flat bottom craft over stitch and glue, but know stitch and glue stays leak prof for longer and needs less maintenance.

                      Paint - epoxy pigmented white is a good base, then gel coat rolled on thin is a good hard wearing paint system.

                      any more photos of the kayak design in action, its a great idea, thanks for sending details and photos?

                      Cheers Phil.

                      --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > honestly I avoid stitch and glue filleting, opting for small inside chine logs and taped outside.
                      > ziptie-glue, clip, ziptie-glue in the small chine logs.. for the smaller curvy projects.
                      > larger straighter projects I like inside chine logs about 1/2-5/8 sq. glue and screw.
                      > after its dried well, pull the screws and fill, then tape or double tape seams.
                      >  
                      > when it comes to painting, I AM OOPSLOP! theres no such thing as "guaranteed one coat coverage" with me house painting, I ALWAYS work it too far too thin, guaranteed!
                      > so 3-4 thin coats of resin to the outside in 3-4 days.. then 3-4 thin coats of paint over.
                      >  
                      > hannu says a good semi-gloss exterior latex is great stuff, I like epoxy-enamel concrete floor paint, is about 25 a gallon for a light gray that can be colored with a small can of enamel. I like to keep some of the light gray for the inside anyhow. its real thin runny stuff that can get deep into joints and grabs like glue. same tactics, give it over a week to harden up real good. hannu is probably right about exterior semi-gloss latex becoming thicker and harder than something oilbase.
                      >  
                      > this slipper launch toy, I'm going to go with "Coat It" http://www.glazecoat.com/Coat%20it.htm , the hulls skin is only 6mm chinese meranti luan (5-6 laminates in that 6mm)
                      > wish they made that stuff here in the US instead! some luan is a single core with veneers, might be ok for subfloor overlayment sure..  this other stuff like a micro ply and its the same price, 11 bucks a sheet. just got the sides skinned and trimmed today. the Coat It stuff will add a couple mm thickness to it and a LOT of abrasion resistance, the big kit will be just enough to do the whole outside of the hull, about 2-1/4 steet worth, if I work it fast-far.
                      >  
                      > tip? I grabbed a 40 grit 36"x4" belt sander belt, cut the seam and stapled it to a 1x3 for a fairing sander, good stuff for long smooth lines before attaching the skin to the skeleton.
                      > wish I HAD a big 36" belt sander sometimes, but a 3 foot long rough as all hell sanding block sure is handy! (wear gloves using it, it'll rip the skin off yer thumbs in a hurry)
                      > its great when youre working frames and stringers, bigger projects, but I can picture other situations where something like that would be handy to whip up.
                      > its gonna be a couple days sanding-fairing with that before the bottom gets skinned, ouch.
                      >
                      > --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                      > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                      > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                      > Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 9:48 PM
                      >
                      >
                      >  
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > Wow great job Ken, how did you go with the stitch and glue process? Ive messed around with polythene glue and glass tape with mixed results and epoxy paint for abrasion resistance.
                      >
                      > Prisim dory folding was not mine.
                      >
                      > Good luck with the Slipper, tricky project.
                      >
                      > Ive got the same electric Min-Kota,ive never used it on a one sheeter, ive used my sevylor electric motor with good results providing there is no head wind.
                      >
                      > If you have any good stitch and glue tips or paint tips let us know Ken?
                      >
                      > Cheers Phil.
                      >
                      > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > have built a couple 1 sheet skiffs from simplicity boats going with very small inside chine logs.. about 3/8x3/8. first its straight ziptied and glued, then those are pulled to ziptie and glue in the chine logs.. makes a lot of holes but they get resin and taped over anyhow.
                      > > I'd pushed em widthwise for as many sq in floor as I could manage (bouyancy!).
                      > > the one for rowing, a guy had bought for his son as a bed. the other has mast, center daggerboard, and rudder. never sailed so I figured it'd be a good way to learn how.
                      > >  
                      > > is that you who'd built the prism-dory82 to fold flat? nice job, but if so, you probably know what I'm talking about.. theyre kinda "spinny" for having that short waterline, if you try to move along quickly.. but really good weight capacity. the one I'd built was 26-11-11 on the main cuts, ended up giving it a motor well for a minn kota 30lb thrust trolling motor.
                      > >  
                      > > I'd thought about svensons.com "handy andy", had worked it out for 8 foot sheet, if I remember it'd been 10-7/8" instead of 12" steps, with all else the same. it'd probably fold up the same way too.. but thats also needing more than one sheet.
                      > >  
                      > > currently I'm working on an 11-12' scaled down "Henley Slipper Launch" approximation..
                      > > (didnt buy plans theyre pretty darn steep!) http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/sf/motor/classic/henley18/index.htm
                      > > it's going to be a single bench seat for 2 persons, I like the "negative transom" look, but am doing it a bit differently.. some methods borrowed from svensons "Bebop", but with frames crowned 2" for the hulls bottom, keel stringer, couple bilge stringers, chine and gunwale stringers.. the skeleton is looking good :)
                      > >  
                      > > 2 years back I'd built a slightly narrowed "Bebop" powered with a 250w 24v 2500rpm scooter motor I ran on 12v (half those values). direct drive thru skeg, 5/16 rod is a perfect fit to 3/8" hard brake line (.005-.006 clearance).. to a T-6 prop from http://youngprops.com/ .
                      > > recently I'd stumbled into http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24voltmotors.html
                      > > and its "kits" page http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/motor.html has a 900w and smaller powering options at pretty reasonable prices. (746w = 1hp).
                      > > 1.2 hp at "gofast.com" speed calculator is projecting 10-11 mph tops (900w) at 630lb.
                      > > -but I have a 36lb thrust minn-kota on hand already too (400w = 1/2hp). its projecting a good 7-8mph if the hull is slick enough... 41" wide 2" convex oughtta be slippery.
                      > > 400w on 12v also leaves it 1 battery (70lbs) lighter and is more convenient.
                      > >  
                      > > for my canoe/kayak idea, 23 is probably about as wide as it can be conveniently pushed with 1 sheet, without going crazy trying to build up some gunwale height. know what youre saying about stability too! I'd think it'd get some stability for having that 11'6" waterline.
                      > >  
                      > > the dory82 I'd built (26" width)
                      > > 2.2' x 5.5' = 12.1 sq ft. 5.5 being about the waterline for how ends tip up.
                      > > if its sitting lower for some weight, 2.2 x 6' = 13.2 sq ft.
                      > >  
                      > > 8 x 1.9 = 15.2 sq ft (triangle-straight-triangle x width = area)
                      > > so theres maybe 1.5 sq ft each side more.. but not really to beam either..
                      > > but add some 3" worth of rocker, an inch lower center of gravity for the 10 degree sandwiched keel, then an inch to width for the side flare thats trying to resist heeling...
                      > > the 19" wide floor of this 1st one dont feel horribly tippy, but thats me too.
                      > > the almost full length waterline sure does make for better tracking at speed.
                      > >  
                      > > after this "henley slipper" I'm going to go for building another of these canoes with the width added, it'd probably handle the river better with myself and some light gear along. it'll be a while before I get to it, but real quick once started, simple as it is. the 1st one was done about a week, couple hrs per afternoon.
                      > >  
                      > > I'm also planning to build (sometime!) a 2 sheet skiff modified of simplicityboats "summer breeze". with straightening the chines mid-point aft to get rid of the rocker, for planing with a little 6hp johnson I have kicking around here..  it'd probably come up 11' 7" after widening a couple inches. I'm also thinking to inset the motorboard 8-10", it gives away near a sq ft of buoyancy, but its also putting MY weight a foot further forward without need for a tiller extension, and letting the resultant "tails" behave as afterplane trim tabs to help it ride flat. those tails wouldnt need to be at 15 degrees either, so that much less buoyancy is "given away" really.
                      > > looking at http://www.simplicityboats.com/bottomlayout.gif theres plenty room to go 4-5" wider and continue near straight from mid on aft, which ought to plane with 2 aboard if somewhat light. I'm also thinking to borrow similar seat configuration from James Brett's "UniCat" http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/brett/unicat2.4/index.htm for how it lends itself to passengers centered weight trimming its balance, and for the floatation+storage it'd add. the little 6hp johnson has a prop with a little less pitch than standard, so I might think about these same ideas to the larger "DayDream" http://www.simplicityboats.com/LCB.htm
                      > > giving it the "Clarence River Dory" motor well treatment..  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/crd/index.htm
                      > > but keeping the beam (at floor) to 42" mid, and 38-39" at transom for really near flat.
                      > > a little less shoving water aside at displacement speeds and when slow planing. the lesser prop pitch, waterline length and square footage, it'd probably have the grunt to get 2-3 persons on slow plane, or carry several.. http://www.simplicityboats.com/daydreamSA.html
                      > > about 1/2 down the page theres a pic with 7 aboard it omg overload..
                      > > larger would probably be more saleable than smaller. love building and run out of storage space.. whoops!
                      > >  
                      > > boat on the brain? GUILTY!!
                      > > I'm also liking Jim Michalaks AF4b for a 10hp long shaft honda 4 stroke I have kicking around that was a sailboat pusher (low hrs on it really). another engine with a gruntish slightly lower pitched prop. speed calculator (after slip figured in) is estimating 18-19 mph top speed at WOT at 1100lb loading, where I'd hope for 13-14mph slow planing at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, and some decent range from a 6 gallon tank..
                      > >
                      > > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                      > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                      > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                      > > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >  
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                      > >
                      > > Cheers Phil
                      > >
                      > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                      > > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                      > > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                      > > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                      > > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                      > > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                      > > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                      > > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                      > > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                      > > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                      > > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                      > > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                      > > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                      > > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                      > > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                      > > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                      > > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                      > > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                      > > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                      > > >
                      > > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                      > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                      > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                      > > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >  
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > Hello Ken,
                      > > >
                      > > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                      > > >
                      > > > Cheers Phil.
                      > > >
                      > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                      > > > >
                      > > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floorÃÆ'‚  :)
                      > > > >
                      > > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                      > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                      > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                      > > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Cheers Phil.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                      > > > > > lastÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                      > > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                      > > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                      > > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                      > > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                      > > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                      > > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                      > > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                      > > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                      > > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                      > > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                      > > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                      > > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                      > > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                      > > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                      > > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                      > > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                      > > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                      > > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                      > > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                      > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                      > > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Greg
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > __________________________________________________________
                      > > It's here! Your new message!
                      > > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
                      > > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
                      > >
                      >


                    • Jack
                      I agree with you on the chine log with one sheeters, an inch or 2 missing from the beam is not good. So one sheeters I go stitch and glue, but prefer ex chine
                      Message 10 of 19 , Feb 17, 2011
                      • 0 Attachment
                        I agree with you on the chine log with one sheeters, an inch or 2 missing from the beam is not good. So one sheeters I go stitch and glue, but prefer ex chine log on my flat bottom larger craft.

                        Sadly ive been bitten by the credit crunch and am out of pocket money to start my next project. So the little toy kayak will have to wait along with all the other boats and unfinished projects in the shed at the mo.

                        Cheers Phil.

                        --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > unfortunately didnt have anyone with to take pics out testing that kayak toy, so no pics playing in it yet (its still COLD here now too).
                        >  
                        > inside-outside chine logs.. fun topic-debate there! outside chine logs can protect against a hit to the bottom corners and sure can be easier to place-replace, but with one sheeters youre giving up some square and cubic inches that add up really fast.
                        >  
                        > if theyre just 1/2" wide (is small) there goes a square inch, 12 sq inches every foot,
                        > 96 sq in in 8 foot, and if youre running 4" draft it becomes 384 cubic inches.
                        > 1728 (cu in per ft) / 384 = 4.5, so youre only giving up about 15 lb buoyancy to that.
                        > if youre 150 lbs tho, its also about 10%. that can be a lot to a one sheet boat.
                        > 3/4" logs.. just multipy by 1.5 for 576 cu in, 1/3 cu ft, maybe 21 lb buoyancy loss.
                        > thats all at an estimated-approximated 4" draft, not really "big" losses either.
                        >  
                        > with bigger boats, inside-outside chine logs are about the same if a bottom needs replacing, old bottom cut out couple inches from edges and you have the meat of the chine logs to glue-screw into, where real filleted stitch and glue.. nope! outside chine logs if tall enough, you have surface area for glass tape and resin to grab to, inside chine logs youre right to the skin surfaces without any steps to stop/trim at. just kinda works out better overall, my opinion.
                        > -which doesnt matter with my little 3/8x3/8 ziptie-glued in inside chine logs, there sure isnt any real meat to land screws or nails into! not the case with the kayak toy where inside chine logs are about 5/8x5/8, and with that V sandwiched bottom you sure arent going to "just replace it" either lol. to the plus side, when a one sheeter gets eaten up its not a biggie expense or effort to just whip out another one to replace it completely.
                        >  
                        > speakin of.. have ya started whippin up a kayak already? it sure didnt take long day 1 to have the keel sandwiched bottom glued-screwed (and tattood?) with the chine logs glued and clamped on, sides lengths butted together.. day 2 the sides attached (from center outward) with the construction adhesive and temp screws (minor single handed wrestling), bow stem twigs glued and lashed in with zipties, then the gunwales glued-screwed-clamped on. -oh hey its lookin like a canoe! within 24-30 hrs and maybe 6-7 hr work.
                        >  
                        > "instant-boat" fast and simple was the design intent. day 3 was the day of rest to let that construction adhesive fully harden up, day 4 was upside down screws out and hog down the chines with the belt sander, tape seams and resin coat the beastie early morning and 2nd coat that night. after that its just the breastplates and spreaders... and a paintjob.
                        > I was paddling on the pond near here, day 10 or 11 with the paint hardened a couple days worth already (yeah I rushed through it a bit). dont think there was even 20 hr into the build-finish and maybe a total of 55 bucks between wood, glue, resin, paint, for a 12' kayak toy.
                        > of course it wont handle the bashings like a commercial plastic job will take, it is what it is, an easy build that paddles pretty fast with pretty good tracking.
                        >  
                        > the "mini henley slipper launch" is rolling along, faired, bottom skinned, and yesterday the motor well is in, today is butchering the 36lb MK trolling motor to fit.. gonna take a while to make the steering wheel and spool, and the spool for the trolling motor shaft, placing and mounting transfer pulleys, tensioning springs etc.. theres also "wire stretching" to get the speed control to the dashboard, lots to do before its flipped again for seam taping and a gallon of "Coat It" to the shell.. then another flip to begin interior paint+finishing+decking and everything else involved. a neighbor came saw it other day, is wanting now too..
                        > for some 10-20hp worth of little hotrod, funfun!
                        >
                        >
                        > --- On Wed, 2/16/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                        > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                        > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                        > Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2011, 1:41 PM
                        >
                        >
                        >  
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Cheers Ken for the tips, I prefer exterior chine logs flat bottom craft over stitch and glue, but know stitch and glue stays leak prof for longer and needs less maintenance.
                        >
                        > Paint - epoxy pigmented white is a good base, then gel coat rolled on thin is a good hard wearing paint system.
                        >
                        > any more photos of the kayak design in action, its a great idea, thanks for sending details and photos?
                        >
                        > Cheers Phil.
                        >
                        > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > honestly I avoid stitch and glue filleting, opting for small inside chine logs and taped outside.
                        > > ziptie-glue, clip, ziptie-glue in the small chine logs.. for the smaller curvy projects.
                        > > larger straighter projects I like inside chine logs about 1/2-5/8 sq. glue and screw.
                        > > after its dried well, pull the screws and fill, then tape or double tape seams.
                        > >  
                        > > when it comes to painting, I AM OOPSLOP! theres no such thing as "guaranteed one coat coverage" with me house painting, I ALWAYS work it too far too thin, guaranteed!
                        > > so 3-4 thin coats of resin to the outside in 3-4 days.. then 3-4 thin coats of paint over.
                        > >  
                        > > hannu says a good semi-gloss exterior latex is great stuff, I like epoxy-enamel concrete floor paint, is about 25 a gallon for a light gray that can be colored with a small can of enamel. I like to keep some of the light gray for the inside anyhow. its real thin runny stuff that can get deep into joints and grabs like glue. same tactics, give it over a week to harden up real good. hannu is probably right about exterior semi-gloss latex becoming thicker and harder than something oilbase.
                        > >  
                        > > this slipper launch toy, I'm going to go with "Coat It" http://www.glazecoat.com/Coat%20it.htm%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0, the hulls skin is only 6mm chinese meranti luan (5-6 laminates in that 6mm)
                        > > wish they made that stuff here in the US instead! some luan is a single core with veneers, might be ok for subfloor overlayment sure..  this other stuff like a micro ply and its the same price, 11 bucks a sheet. just got the sides skinned and trimmed today. the Coat It stuff will add a couple mm thickness to it and a LOT of abrasion resistance, the big kit will be just enough to do the whole outside of the hull, about 2-1/4 steet worth, if I work it fast-far.
                        > >  
                        > > tip? I grabbed a 40 grit 36"x4" belt sander belt, cut the seam and stapled it to a 1x3 for a fairing sander, good stuff for long smooth lines before attaching the skin to the skeleton.
                        > > wish I HAD a big 36" belt sander sometimes, but a 3 foot long rough as all hell sanding block sure is handy! (wear gloves using it, it'll rip the skin off yer thumbs in a hurry)
                        > > its great when youre working frames and stringers, bigger projects, but I can picture other situations where something like that would be handy to whip up.
                        > > its gonna be a couple days sanding-fairing with that before the bottom gets skinned, ouch.
                        > >
                        > > --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                        > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                        > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                        > > Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 9:48 PM
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >  
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > Wow great job Ken, how did you go with the stitch and glue process? Ive messed around with polythene glue and glass tape with mixed results and epoxy paint for abrasion resistance.
                        > >
                        > > Prisim dory folding was not mine.
                        > >
                        > > Good luck with the Slipper, tricky project.
                        > >
                        > > Ive got the same electric Min-Kota,ive never used it on a one sheeter, ive used my sevylor electric motor with good results providing there is no head wind.
                        > >
                        > > If you have any good stitch and glue tips or paint tips let us know Ken?
                        > >
                        > > Cheers Phil.
                        > >
                        > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > have built a couple 1 sheet skiffs from simplicity boats going with very small inside chine logs.. about 3/8x3/8. first its straight ziptied and glued, then those are pulled to ziptie and glue in the chine logs.. makes a lot of holes but they get resin and taped over anyhow.
                        > > > I'd pushed em widthwise for as many sq in floor as I could manage (bouyancy!).
                        > > > the one for rowing, a guy had bought for his son as a bed. the other has mast, center daggerboard, and rudder. never sailed so I figured it'd be a good way to learn how.
                        > > >  
                        > > > is that you who'd built the prism-dory82 to fold flat? nice job, but if so, you probably know what I'm talking about.. theyre kinda "spinny" for having that short waterline, if you try to move along quickly.. but really good weight capacity. the one I'd built was 26-11-11 on the main cuts, ended up giving it a motor well for a minn kota 30lb thrust trolling motor.
                        > > >  
                        > > > I'd thought about svensons.com "handy andy", had worked it out for 8 foot sheet, if I remember it'd been 10-7/8" instead of 12" steps, with all else the same. it'd probably fold up the same way too.. but thats also needing more than one sheet.
                        > > >  
                        > > > currently I'm working on an 11-12' scaled down "Henley Slipper Launch" approximation..
                        > > > (didnt buy plans theyre pretty darn steep!) http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/sf/motor/classic/henley18/index.htm
                        > > > it's going to be a single bench seat for 2 persons, I like the "negative transom" look, but am doing it a bit differently.. some methods borrowed from svensons "Bebop", but with frames crowned 2" for the hulls bottom, keel stringer, couple bilge stringers, chine and gunwale stringers.. the skeleton is looking good :)
                        > > >  
                        > > > 2 years back I'd built a slightly narrowed "Bebop" powered with a 250w 24v 2500rpm scooter motor I ran on 12v (half those values). direct drive thru skeg, 5/16 rod is a perfect fit to 3/8" hard brake line (.005-.006 clearance).. to a T-6 prop from http://youngprops.com/%c3%83%c2%83%c3%a2%c2%80%c2%9a%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0.
                        > > > recently I'd stumbled into http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24voltmotors.html
                        > > > and its "kits" page http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/motor.html%c3%83%c2%83%c3%a2%c2%80%c2%9a%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0has a 900w and smaller powering options at pretty reasonable prices. (746w = 1hp).
                        > > > 1.2 hp at "gofast.com" speed calculator is projecting 10-11 mph tops (900w) at 630lb.
                        > > > -but I have a 36lb thrust minn-kota on hand already too (400w = 1/2hp). its projecting a good 7-8mph if the hull is slick enough... 41" wide 2" convex oughtta be slippery.
                        > > > 400w on 12v also leaves it 1 battery (70lbs) lighter and is more convenient.
                        > > >  
                        > > > for my canoe/kayak idea, 23 is probably about as wide as it can be conveniently pushed with 1 sheet, without going crazy trying to build up some gunwale height. know what youre saying about stability too! I'd think it'd get some stability for having that 11'6" waterline.
                        > > >  
                        > > > the dory82 I'd built (26" width)
                        > > > 2.2' x 5.5' = 12.1 sq ft. 5.5 being about the waterline for how ends tip up.
                        > > > if its sitting lower for some weight, 2.2 x 6' = 13.2 sq ft.
                        > > >  
                        > > > 8 x 1.9 = 15.2 sq ft (triangle-straight-triangle x width = area)
                        > > > so theres maybe 1.5 sq ft each side more.. but not really to beam either..
                        > > > but add some 3" worth of rocker, an inch lower center of gravity for the 10 degree sandwiched keel, then an inch to width for the side flare thats trying to resist heeling...
                        > > > the 19" wide floor of this 1st one dont feel horribly tippy, but thats me too.
                        > > > the almost full length waterline sure does make for better tracking at speed.
                        > > >  
                        > > > after this "henley slipper" I'm going to go for building another of these canoes with the width added, it'd probably handle the river better with myself and some light gear along. it'll be a while before I get to it, but real quick once started, simple as it is. the 1st one was done about a week, couple hrs per afternoon.
                        > > >  
                        > > > I'm also planning to build (sometime!) a 2 sheet skiff modified of simplicityboats "summer breeze". with straightening the chines mid-point aft to get rid of the rocker, for planing with a little 6hp johnson I have kicking around here..  it'd probably come up 11' 7" after widening a couple inches. I'm also thinking to inset the motorboard 8-10", it gives away near a sq ft of buoyancy, but its also putting MY weight a foot further forward without need for a tiller extension, and letting the resultant "tails" behave as afterplane trim tabs to help it ride flat. those tails wouldnt need to be at 15 degrees either, so that much less buoyancy is "given away" really.
                        > > > looking at http://www.simplicityboats.com/bottomlayout.gif%c3%83%c2%83%c3%a2%c2%80%c2%9a%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0theres plenty room to go 4-5" wider and continue near straight from mid on aft, which ought to plane with 2 aboard if somewhat light. I'm also thinking to borrow similar seat configuration from James Brett's "UniCat" http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/brett/unicat2.4/index.htm%c3%83%c2%83%c3%a2%c2%80%c2%9a%c3%83%c2%82%c3%82%c2%a0for how it lends itself to passengers centered weight trimming its balance, and for the floatation+storage it'd add. the little 6hp johnson has a prop with a little less pitch than standard, so I might think about these same ideas to the larger "DayDream" http://www.simplicityboats.com/LCB.htm
                        > > > giving it the "Clarence River Dory" motor well treatment..  http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/crd/index.htm
                        > > > but keeping the beam (at floor) to 42" mid, and 38-39" at transom for really near flat.
                        > > > a little less shoving water aside at displacement speeds and when slow planing. the lesser prop pitch, waterline length and square footage, it'd probably have the grunt to get 2-3 persons on slow plane, or carry several.. http://www.simplicityboats.com/daydreamSA.html
                        > > > about 1/2 down the page theres a pic with 7 aboard it omg overload..
                        > > > larger would probably be more saleable than smaller. love building and run out of storage space.. whoops!
                        > > >  
                        > > > boat on the brain? GUILTY!!
                        > > > I'm also liking Jim Michalaks AF4b for a 10hp long shaft honda 4 stroke I have kicking around that was a sailboat pusher (low hrs on it really). another engine with a gruntish slightly lower pitched prop. speed calculator (after slip figured in) is estimating 18-19 mph top speed at WOT at 1100lb loading, where I'd hope for 13-14mph slow planing at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, and some decent range from a 6 gallon tank..
                        > > >
                        > > > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                        > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                        > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                        > > > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >  
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                        > > >
                        > > > Cheers Phil
                        > > >
                        > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                        > > > >
                        > > > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                        > > > > 8'ÃÆ'‚ ÃÆ'‚ ÃÆ'‚ ÃÆ'‚  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                        > > > > x1.5'ÃÆ'‚  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                        > > > > x63ÃÆ'‚ ÃÆ'‚ ÃÆ'‚  (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                        > > > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                        > > > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                        > > > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                        > > > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                        > > > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                        > > > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                        > > > > 8'ÃÆ'‚  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                        > > > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                        > > > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                        > > > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                        > > > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                        > > > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                        > > > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                        > > > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                        > > > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                        > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                        > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                        > > > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Hello Ken,
                        > > > >
                        > > > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Cheers Phil.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floorÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚  :)
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                        > > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                        > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                        > > > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Cheers Phil.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                        > > > > > > lastÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                        > > > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                        > > > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                        > > > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                        > > > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                        > > > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                        > > > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                        > > > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                        > > > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                        > > > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                        > > > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                        > > > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                        > > > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                        > > > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                        > > > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                        > > > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                        > > > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                        > > > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                        > > > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                        > > > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                        > > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                        > > > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > Greg
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > > __________________________________________________________
                        > > > It's here! Your new message!
                        > > > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
                        > > > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
                        > > >
                        > >
                        >
                      • KEN
                        curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos of.   a note about its stability, if built to 23 floor width, keep in mind that
                        Message 11 of 19 , Mar 8, 2011
                        • 0 Attachment
                          curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos of.
                           
                          a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.

                          --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:

                          From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                          Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                          To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                          Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM

                           
                          Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?

                          Cheers Phil

                          --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                          > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                          > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                          > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                          > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                          > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                          > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                          > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                          > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                          > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                          > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                          > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                          > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                          > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                          > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                          > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                          > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                          > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                          > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                          >
                          > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                          > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                          > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                          > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                          >
                          >
                          >  
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Hello Ken,
                          >
                          > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                          >
                          > Cheers Phil.
                          >
                          > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
                          > >
                          > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                          > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                          > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                          > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >  
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                          > >
                          > > Cheers Phil.
                          > >
                          > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                          > > > last year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                          > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy. 
                          > > >  
                          > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                          > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, it swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                          > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                          > > >  
                          > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                          > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                          > > > kinda inspired by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                          > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                          > > >  
                          > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                          > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                          > > >  
                          > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                          > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                          > > >  
                          > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hiney in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                          > > >  
                          > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                          > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                          > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                          > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                          > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                          > > >  
                          > > > wasted sheet? the four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                          > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                          > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                          > > >  
                          > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                          > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                          > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'd probably lose a tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for the extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                          > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                          > > >  
                          > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                          > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                          > > >  
                          > > >  
                          > > >  
                          > > >  
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                          > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                          > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                          > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > >  
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                          > > >
                          > > > Greg
                          > > >
                          > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                          > > >
                          > >
                          >


                        • Jack
                          Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add
                          Message 12 of 19 , Mar 9, 2011
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add to beam the more displacement thats added. Its a great idea, ive tryed 22 23 24 26 28 inch beam, I like 26/28 because im a heavy guy 110 kgs.

                            Cheers Phil.

                            --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos of.
                            >  
                            > a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.
                            >
                            > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                            > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                            > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                            > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                            >
                            >
                            >  
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                            >
                            > Cheers Phil
                            >
                            > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                            > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                            > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                            > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                            > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                            > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                            > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                            > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                            > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                            > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                            > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                            > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                            > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                            > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                            > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                            > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                            > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                            > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                            > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                            > >
                            > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                            > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                            > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                            > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >  
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > Hello Ken,
                            > >
                            > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                            > >
                            > > Cheers Phil.
                            > >
                            > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
                            > > >
                            > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                            > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                            > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                            > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > >  
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                            > > >
                            > > > Cheers Phil.
                            > > >
                            > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                            > > > >
                            > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                            > > > > lastÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                            > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                            > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                            > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                            > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                            > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                            > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                            > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                            > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                            > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                            > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                            > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                            > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                            > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                            > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                            > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                            > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                            > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                            > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                            > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                            > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                            > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Greg
                            > > > >
                            > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                            > > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            >
                          • Greg Haff
                            Phil: For me 22 inch worked well for a flower box. Greg One taco short of 400 lbs. ( I seem to have put on 20 lbs in two months )
                            Message 13 of 19 , Mar 9, 2011
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Phil: For me 22 inch worked well for a flower box.

                              Greg
                              One taco short of 400 lbs.
                              ( I seem to have put on 20 lbs in two months )


                              From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                              To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Wed, March 9, 2011 2:26:43 PM
                              Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]

                               

                              Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add to beam the more displacement thats added. Its a great idea, ive tryed 22 23 24 26 28 inch beam, I like 26/28 because im a heavy guy 110 kgs.

                              Cheers Phil.

                              --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos of.
                              >  
                              > a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.
                              >
                              > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                              >
                              >
                              > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                              > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                              > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                              > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                              >
                              >
                              >  
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                              >
                              > Cheers Phil
                              >
                              > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                              > >
                              > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                              > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                              > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                              > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                              > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                              > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                              > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                              > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                              > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                              > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                              > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                              > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                              > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                              > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                              > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                              > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                              > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                              > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                              > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                              > >
                              > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                              > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                              > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                              > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                              > >
                              > >
                              > >  
                              > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > Hello Ken,
                              > >
                              > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                              > >
                              > > Cheers Phil.
                              > >
                              > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
                              > > >
                              > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                              > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                              > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                              > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > >  
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > >
                              > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                              > > >
                              > > > Cheers Phil.
                              > > >
                              > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                              > > > >
                              > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                              > > > > lastÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                              > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                              > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                              > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                              > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                              > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                              > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                              > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                              > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                              > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                              > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                              > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                              > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                              > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                              > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                              > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                              > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                              > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                              > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                              > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                              > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                              > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Greg
                              > > > >
                              > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                              > > > >
                              > > >
                              > >
                              >


                            • KEN
                              yup, can relate to not liking that tippy feeling even in 5-6 choppy wakes, and can only get so much out of 1 sheet too, near 12 is pretty pushed lol. the
                              Message 14 of 19 , Mar 10, 2011
                              • 0 Attachment
                                yup, can relate to not liking that tippy feeling even in 5-6" choppy wakes, and can only get so much out of 1 sheet too, near 12' is pretty pushed lol. the tracking vs turning didnt feel bad to me with 3" rocker, the tips werent planted so deeply I had to fight em, and that was with this 19" wide first one. dont know, but 4" wider probably sit about same with some more weight aboard. idea was more about better gliding easier paddling some distance, kinda scaled down "light sculling trainer" from hannu's was the inspiration, after not liking how Dory82 was with a kayak type paddle (it was designed to be sculled, so "my fault").
                                 
                                the assembly method and sheet usage also has me thinking little sailing catamaran is a possibility, two 12' closed pontoons, similarly, from just 2 sheets, could be fun.
                                 
                                with this ongoing mini henley project it'll be a while before i get around to doing a kayak at 23", with an extra 12' 2x4 to rip taller gunwales from, to make up for some lost side height.
                                got a neighbor wanting to build an about half scale PBR mark-II with airsoft machine guns etc.. he'll probably have fun with his veteran buddies out "terrorizing" the bass boats.
                                of course the hull itself wont be "authentic", it'll be for low hp.
                                 
                                in michalak group someone had mentioned http://www.robbwhite.com/sportboat.html
                                is a pretty impressive little hull for small hp, where the planing speed is claimed lower than its hull speed, and will plane 2 adults with just 3hp, without ever having to climb there.
                                that has me thinking to try to simplify-translate-build something similar in plywood.
                                -of course thats getting into 3 sheets at least.. but I have a little ol 6hp johnson to play with
                                 
                                I like tinkering with 1 sheeters, but have other projects too here.

                                --- On Wed, 3/9/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:

                                From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                                Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                Date: Wednesday, March 9, 2011, 5:26 PM

                                 
                                Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add to beam the more displacement thats added. Its a great idea, ive tryed 22 23 24 26 28 inch beam, I like 26/28 because im a heavy guy 110 kgs.

                                Cheers Phil.

                                --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos of.
                                >  
                                > a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.
                                >
                                > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                                >
                                >
                                > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                                > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                                >
                                >
                                >  
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                                >
                                > Cheers Phil
                                >
                                > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                > >
                                > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                                > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                                > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                                > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                                > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                                > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                                > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                                > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                                > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                                > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                                > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                                > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                                > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                                > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                                > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                                > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                                > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                                > >
                                > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                                > >
                                > >
                                > >  
                                > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > Hello Ken,
                                > >
                                > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                                > >
                                > > Cheers Phil.
                                > >
                                > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                > > >
                                > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floor  :)
                                > > >
                                > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                > > >
                                > > >
                                > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                                > > >
                                > > >
                                > > >  
                                > > >
                                > > >
                                > > >
                                > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                                > > >
                                > > > Cheers Phil.
                                > > >
                                > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                > > > >
                                > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                                > > > > lastÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                                > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                                > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                                > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                                > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                                > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                                > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                                > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                                > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                                > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                                > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                                > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                                > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                                > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                                > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                                > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                                > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                                > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                                > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                                > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                                > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Greg
                                > > > >
                                > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                > > > >
                                > > >
                                > >
                                >


                              • Jack
                                Hi mate,Take the wifes roses to sea you reckon. Hows the Tubby going? A work of art in progress.
                                Message 15 of 19 , Mar 11, 2011
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  Hi mate,Take the wifes roses to sea you reckon. Hows the Tubby going? A work of art in progress.

                                  --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, Greg Haff <haffdaddy@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Phil: For me 22 inch worked well for a flower box.
                                  >
                                  > Greg
                                  > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                  > ( I seem to have put on 20 lbs in two months )
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > ________________________________
                                  > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                                  > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                  > Sent: Wed, March 9, 2011 2:26:43 PM
                                  > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does
                                  > make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add
                                  > to beam the more displacement thats added. Its a great idea, ive tryed 22 23 24
                                  > 26 28 inch beam, I like 26/28 because im a heavy guy 110 kgs.
                                  >
                                  > Cheers Phil.
                                  >
                                  > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                  > >
                                  > > curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos
                                  > >of.
                                  > > Â
                                  > > a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the
                                  > >overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it
                                  > >ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the
                                  > >side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto
                                  > >I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.
                                  > >
                                  > > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                  > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                  > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                  > > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > Â
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height
                                  > >making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability
                                  > >is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less
                                  > >for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with
                                  > >side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the
                                  > >ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                                  > >
                                  > > Cheers Phil
                                  > >
                                  > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63
                                  > >lbs.
                                  > > > 8'    (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                  > > > x1.5' (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                                  > > > x63   (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                                  > > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty
                                  > >close to the reality
                                  > >
                                  > > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper
                                  > >for the rocker and
                                  > >
                                  > > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                                  > > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and
                                  > >not accounting for
                                  > >
                                  > > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple
                                  > >demonstration..
                                  > > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                                  > > > 8' (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                  > > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                                  > > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                                  > > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to
                                  > >the mental
                                  > >
                                  > > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                                  > > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed
                                  > >into the bottom,
                                  > > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as
                                  > >freeboard.
                                  > > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about
                                  > >same freeboard with
                                  > >
                                  > > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another
                                  > >one.
                                  > > >
                                  > > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                  > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                  > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                  > > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > > ÂÂ
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Hello Ken,
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might
                                  > >build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it
                                  > >perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Cheers Phil.
                                  > > >
                                  > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a
                                  > >wider floorÃÆ'‚ÂÂ :)
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                  > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                  > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                  > > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan
                                  > >and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar
                                  > >link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Cheers Phil.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters
                                  > >sometimes.
                                  > > > > > lastÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ year I had an idea trying to build a better
                                  > >mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                                  > > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak
                                  > >toy.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its
                                  > >load capacity but..
                                  > > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long,
                                  > >itÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a
                                  > >tendency to spin out with any speed.
                                  > > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5
                                  > >9-1/2" strips.
                                  > > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each
                                  > >side (12 ft).
                                  > > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ by hannu's "light sculling trainer"
                                  > >with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                                  > > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5
                                  > >degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the
                                  > >inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with
                                  > >about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                                  > > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel
                                  > >gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards
                                  > >its ends, as expected..
                                  > > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of
                                  > >construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the
                                  > >screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end
                                  > >first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end
                                  > >to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ in another inch,
                                  > >with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had
                                  > >a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                                  > > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                                  > > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                                  > > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                                  > > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at
                                  > >the ends of bow and stern,
                                  > > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                                  > > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at
                                  > >8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                                  > > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit
                                  > >tender yup.
                                  > > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway.
                                  > >it'dÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ probably lose aÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ tiny bit from its
                                  > >length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher
                                  > >for theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to
                                  > >(2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard
                                  > >or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                                  > > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your
                                  > >own risk)
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave
                                  > >enough to go for it.
                                  > > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                                  > > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                                  > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                  > > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs
                                  > >to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His
                                  > >father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right
                                  > >wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Greg
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > >
                                  >
                                • Jack
                                  Yup, some people would just go and buy 2 sheets and build a normal skiff, I reckon pushing the boundrys of madness and logic is much more fun.Good luck with yr
                                  Message 16 of 19 , Mar 11, 2011
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Yup, some people would just go and buy 2 sheets and build a normal skiff, I reckon pushing the boundrys of madness and logic is much more fun.Good luck with yr Henley big project to take on.

                                    Phil.

                                    --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > yup, can relate to not liking that tippy feeling even in 5-6" choppy wakes, and can only get so much out of 1 sheet too, near 12' is pretty pushed lol. the tracking vs turning didnt feel bad to me with 3" rocker, the tips werent planted so deeply I had to fight em, and that was with this 19" wide first one. dont know, but 4" wider probably sit about same with some more weight aboard. idea was more about better gliding easier paddling some distance, kinda scaled down "light sculling trainer" from hannu's was the inspiration, after not liking how Dory82 was with a kayak type paddle (it was designed to be sculled, so "my fault").
                                    >  
                                    > the assembly method and sheet usage also has me thinking little sailing catamaran is a possibility, two 12' closed pontoons, similarly, from just 2 sheets, could be fun.
                                    >  
                                    > with this ongoing mini henley project it'll be a while before i get around to doing a kayak at 23", with an extra 12' 2x4 to rip taller gunwales from, to make up for some lost side height.
                                    > got a neighbor wanting to build an about half scale PBR mark-II with airsoft machine guns etc.. he'll probably have fun with his veteran buddies out "terrorizing" the bass boats.
                                    > of course the hull itself wont be "authentic", it'll be for low hp.
                                    >  
                                    > in michalak group someone had mentioned http://www.robbwhite.com/sportboat.html
                                    > is a pretty impressive little hull for small hp, where the planing speed is claimed lower than its hull speed, and will plane 2 adults with just 3hp, without ever having to climb there.
                                    > that has me thinking to try to simplify-translate-build something similar in plywood.
                                    > -of course thats getting into 3 sheets at least.. but I have a little ol 6hp johnson to play with
                                    >  
                                    > I like tinkering with 1 sheeters, but have other projects too here.
                                    >
                                    > --- On Wed, 3/9/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@...>
                                    > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                    > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                    > Date: Wednesday, March 9, 2011, 5:26 PM
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >  
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add to beam the more displacement thats added. Its a great idea, ive tryed 22 23 24 26 28 inch beam, I like 26/28 because im a heavy guy 110 kgs.
                                    >
                                    > Cheers Phil.
                                    >
                                    > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos of.
                                    > >  
                                    > > a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.
                                    > >
                                    > > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                    > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                    > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                    > > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >  
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                                    > >
                                    > > Cheers Phil
                                    > >
                                    > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63 lbs.
                                    > > > 8'     (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                    > > > x1.5'  (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                                    > > > x63    (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                                    > > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty close to the reality
                                    > > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper for the rocker and
                                    > > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                                    > > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and not accounting for
                                    > > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple demonstration..
                                    > > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                                    > > > 8'  (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                    > > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                                    > > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                                    > > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to the mental
                                    > > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                                    > > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed into the bottom,
                                    > > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as freeboard.
                                    > > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about same freeboard with
                                    > > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another one.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                    > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                    > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                    > > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >  
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Hello Ken,
                                    > > >
                                    > > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Cheers Phil.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a wider floorÃÆ'‚  :)
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                    > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                    > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                    > > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > Cheers Phil.
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters sometimes.
                                    > > > > > lastÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ year I had an idea trying to build a better mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                                    > > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak toy.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its load capacity but..
                                    > > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long, itÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a tendency to spin out with any speed.
                                    > > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5 9-1/2" strips.
                                    > > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each side (12 ft).
                                    > > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ by hannu's "light sculling trainer" with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                                    > > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5 degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                                    > > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards its ends, as expected..
                                    > > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ in another inch, with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                                    > > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                                    > > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                                    > > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                                    > > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at the ends of bow and stern,
                                    > > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                                    > > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at 8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                                    > > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit tender yup.
                                    > > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway. it'dÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ probably lose aÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ tiny bit from its length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher for theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to (2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                                    > > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your own risk)
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave enough to go for it.
                                    > > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                                    > > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                                    > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                    > > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ 
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Greg
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    >
                                  • haffdaddy
                                    No Tubby work until it stops raining. Just to cold and wet around here. Lose my building area for a month. Maybe back to it next month. Sure hope so as the
                                    Message 17 of 19 , Mar 25, 2011
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      No Tubby work until it stops raining. Just to cold and wet around here. Lose my building area for a month. Maybe back to it next month. Sure hope so as the Tubby is heading to AZ in July, 2011. The test float went well,and the the lad was happy. Still need to put on cross braces and some rub rails. Going to re-cut the seat using 1/2 ply and then just got to add some hardware here and there and done. One more boat of your design then that's it for me. Going to hang up tools and get a rubber raft and go floating this summer.

                                      Later

                                      Greg

                                      1/2 Taco Short of 400lbs

                                      --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, "Jack" <ariawoodboatworks@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > Hi mate,Take the wifes roses to sea you reckon. Hows the Tubby going? A work of art in progress.
                                      >
                                      > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, Greg Haff <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > > Phil: For me 22 inch worked well for a flower box.
                                      > >
                                      > > Greg
                                      > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                      > > ( I seem to have put on 20 lbs in two months )
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > ________________________________
                                      > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                      > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                      > > Sent: Wed, March 9, 2011 2:26:43 PM
                                      > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does
                                      > > make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add
                                      > > to beam the more displacement thats added. Its a great idea, ive tryed 22 23 24
                                      > > 26 28 inch beam, I like 26/28 because im a heavy guy 110 kgs.
                                      > >
                                      > > Cheers Phil.
                                      > >
                                      > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos
                                      > > >of.
                                      > > > Â
                                      > > > a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the
                                      > > >overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it
                                      > > >ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the
                                      > > >side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto
                                      > > >I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.
                                      > > >
                                      > > > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                      > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                      > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                      > > > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Â
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height
                                      > > >making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability
                                      > > >is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less
                                      > > >for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with
                                      > > >side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the
                                      > > >ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Cheers Phil
                                      > > >
                                      > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63
                                      > > >lbs.
                                      > > > > 8'    (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                      > > > > x1.5' (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                                      > > > > x63   (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                                      > > > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty
                                      > > >close to the reality
                                      > > >
                                      > > > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper
                                      > > >for the rocker and
                                      > > >
                                      > > > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                                      > > > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and
                                      > > >not accounting for
                                      > > >
                                      > > > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple
                                      > > >demonstration..
                                      > > > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                                      > > > > 8' (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                      > > > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                                      > > > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                                      > > > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to
                                      > > >the mental
                                      > > >
                                      > > > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                                      > > > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed
                                      > > >into the bottom,
                                      > > > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as
                                      > > >freeboard.
                                      > > > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about
                                      > > >same freeboard with
                                      > > >
                                      > > > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another
                                      > > >one.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                      > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                      > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                      > > > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > ÂÂ
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Hello Ken,
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might
                                      > > >build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it
                                      > > >perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Cheers Phil.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a
                                      > > >wider floorÃÆ'‚ÂÂ :)
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                      > > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                      > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                      > > > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan
                                      > > >and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar
                                      > > >link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > Cheers Phil.
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters
                                      > > >sometimes.
                                      > > > > > > lastÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ year I had an idea trying to build a better
                                      > > >mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                                      > > > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak
                                      > > >toy.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its
                                      > > >load capacity but..
                                      > > > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long,
                                      > > >itÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a
                                      > > >tendency to spin out with any speed.
                                      > > > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5
                                      > > >9-1/2" strips.
                                      > > > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each
                                      > > >side (12 ft).
                                      > > > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ by hannu's "light sculling trainer"
                                      > > >with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                                      > > > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5
                                      > > >degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the
                                      > > >inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with
                                      > > >about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                                      > > > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel
                                      > > >gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards
                                      > > >its ends, as expected..
                                      > > > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of
                                      > > >construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the
                                      > > >screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end
                                      > > >first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end
                                      > > >to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ in another inch,
                                      > > >with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had
                                      > > >a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                                      > > > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                                      > > > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                                      > > > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                                      > > > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at
                                      > > >the ends of bow and stern,
                                      > > > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                                      > > > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at
                                      > > >8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                                      > > > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit
                                      > > >tender yup.
                                      > > > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway.
                                      > > >it'dÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ probably lose aÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ tiny bit from its
                                      > > >length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher
                                      > > >for theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to
                                      > > >(2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard
                                      > > >or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                                      > > > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your
                                      > > >own risk)
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave
                                      > > >enough to go for it.
                                      > > > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                                      > > > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                                      > > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                      > > > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs
                                      > > >to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His
                                      > > >father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right
                                      > > >wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Greg
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > >
                                      >
                                    • Jack
                                      Good work Greg, the back brace on Tubby acts as the seat support it helps to keep the balance of the boat when rowing for the big kids like me who weigh more
                                      Message 18 of 19 , Mar 26, 2011
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        Good work Greg, the back brace on Tubby acts as the seat support it helps to keep the balance of the boat when rowing for the big kids like me who weigh more than a light adult. Good luck.

                                        Cheers Phil.
                                        --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, "haffdaddy" <haffdaddy@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > No Tubby work until it stops raining. Just to cold and wet around here. Lose my building area for a month. Maybe back to it next month. Sure hope so as the Tubby is heading to AZ in July, 2011. The test float went well,and the the lad was happy. Still need to put on cross braces and some rub rails. Going to re-cut the seat using 1/2 ply and then just got to add some hardware here and there and done. One more boat of your design then that's it for me. Going to hang up tools and get a rubber raft and go floating this summer.
                                        >
                                        > Later
                                        >
                                        > Greg
                                        >
                                        > 1/2 Taco Short of 400lbs
                                        >
                                        > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, "Jack" <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > Hi mate,Take the wifes roses to sea you reckon. Hows the Tubby going? A work of art in progress.
                                        > >
                                        > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, Greg Haff <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Phil: For me 22 inch worked well for a flower box.
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Greg
                                        > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                        > > > ( I seem to have put on 20 lbs in two months )
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > > ________________________________
                                        > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                        > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                        > > > Sent: Wed, March 9, 2011 2:26:43 PM
                                        > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Hi Ken, 23 scares me, more length is harder to turn in rough conditions but does
                                        > > > make good freeboard where there is no weight. I guess the flare would help add
                                        > > > to beam the more displacement thats added. Its a great idea, ive tryed 22 23 24
                                        > > > 26 28 inch beam, I like 26/28 because im a heavy guy 110 kgs.
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Cheers Phil.
                                        > > >
                                        > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > curiosity if you (or anyone else) had started a build, with progress photos
                                        > > > >of.
                                        > > > > Â
                                        > > > > a note about its stability, if built to 23" floor width, keep in mind that the
                                        > > > >overall length is very nearly 12 foot (with most of that waterline too), so it
                                        > > > >ends up having quite a bit of square footage against the water. then theres the
                                        > > > >side flare beyond that, which gives some resistance to heeling.. the first proto
                                        > > > >I'd done is 19 width, so definitely understand the "wider is better" concern.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > --- On Tue, 2/8/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                        > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                        > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                        > > > > Date: Tuesday, February 8, 2011, 1:29 PM
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Â
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Hi Ken, I like 28 inch beam and 10 sides with a rubrail adding 1 inch height
                                        > > > >making sides 11 inch. I tryed this on my smaller double ender designs. Stability
                                        > > > >is very good, displacement for my 110 kg had heaps of free board. Anything less
                                        > > > >for me is to tippy, 24/26 is ok but I like 28 to be safe. 16 that increases with
                                        > > > >side angle is not enough beam to be safe. I like the cutting arrangement of the
                                        > > > >ply pannels well thought out, are you planning on building anything else?
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Cheers Phil
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > I got curious and searched "buoyancy cubic foot" and it popped up about 63
                                        > > > >lbs.
                                        > > > > > 8'    (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                        > > > > > x1.5' (width approximate of my 19" floor)
                                        > > > > > x63   (lbs per sq ft water) = 756.
                                        > > > > > 756/12 = 63 lb per inch draft, with myself+kayak, about 3" draft, is pretty
                                        > > > >close to the reality
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > > of the 7" of freeboard I have. sides are 11" tall and it runs an inch deeper
                                        > > > >for the rocker and
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > > that keel sandwiched V bottom.
                                        > > > > > that number probably a bit low for a swamping value with 1" subtracted and
                                        > > > >not accounting for
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > > side flare, the sides arent a full 12" tall either really, but for simple
                                        > > > >demonstration..
                                        > > > > > --scenario 2-- widened floor..
                                        > > > > > 8' (center section plus 2 triangle ends)
                                        > > > > > x1.9' (width approximate) = 16 cu-ft.
                                        > > > > > x63 (lbs per sq ft water) = 958.
                                        > > > > > 958/12 = 79.8 lb per inch draft and 3" at some 240 lbs. is pretty close to
                                        > > > >the mental
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > > guesstimation of the "added 2 sq-ft" to the floor.
                                        > > > > > its not accounting for the 3" worth of rocker and the 10 degree of V imposed
                                        > > > >into the bottom,
                                        > > > > > but it does kinda estimate an expected draft depth and whats left up as
                                        > > > >freeboard.
                                        > > > > > 8-1/8 or 8-1/4 sides, extended up 2" with rabbeted gunwales, it'd sit about
                                        > > > >same freeboard with
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > > more weight aboard, and more stable too. it makes me want to build another
                                        > > > >one.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > --- On Sun, 2/6/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                        > > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                        > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                        > > > > > Date: Sunday, February 6, 2011, 6:06 PM
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > ÂÂ
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Hello Ken,
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > I have been looking at your design and think its such a good idea I might
                                        > > > >build one. Im 6ft 2 and 110 kgs, have you tested the kayak? if so how did it
                                        > > > >perform and if you dont mind me asking what your height and weight is?
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Cheers Phil.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > this "parts.bmp" has the note on it about fudging down the sides for a
                                        > > > >wider floorÃÆ'‚ÂÂ :)
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > --- On Sat, 1/29/11, Jack <ariawoodboatworks@> wrote:
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > From: Jack <ariawoodboatworks@>
                                        > > > > > > Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders]
                                        > > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                        > > > > > > Date: Saturday, January 29, 2011, 6:09 PM
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > Hello Ken, and welcome to the group. Please email me the photos and plan
                                        > > > >and I will post it for the group it sounds amazing. I tryed to open your rar
                                        > > > >link file but couldnt, so please foward it to my email.
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > Cheers Phil.
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > --- In onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com, KEN <rekkamurd@> wrote:
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > hello all, new to the group and do like to mess with 1 sheeters
                                        > > > >sometimes.
                                        > > > > > > > lastÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ year I had an idea trying to build a better
                                        > > > >mousetrap, it worked out pretty good.
                                        > > > > > > > -but was unable to post some pics. it's an 11'10" 1 sheet canoe/kayak
                                        > > > >toy.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > it started with building hannu's "dory82", which was impressive for its
                                        > > > >load capacity but..
                                        > > > > > > > with both its ends ramping up, the waterline was only 5 or 5-1/2' long,
                                        > > > >itÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ swung around wildly when using a kayak paddle and had a
                                        > > > >tendency to spin out with any speed.
                                        > > > > > > > (yes it was designed for using 2 oars, oops!)
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > the "plan" was to keep it as simple as possible, ripping a sheet into 5
                                        > > > >9-1/2" strips.
                                        > > > > > > > 2 for the bottom with some triangle spinning, and 1-1/2 strips for each
                                        > > > >side (12 ft).
                                        > > > > > > > kinda inspiredÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ by hannu's "light sculling trainer"
                                        > > > >with its shallow V bottom. it worked :)
                                        > > > > > > > 48" minus 4 rips, about 47.5" actual to play with.
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > the shallow V happened with ripping part of a 12' 2x4 1/2 thru at 5
                                        > > > >degrees for 10 degrees total, and sandwiching the bottom halves between the
                                        > > > >inside/outside. the keel itself came up being about 1-1/4" thick total, with
                                        > > > >about 5/8 of it to the outside-bottom.
                                        > > > > > > > the idea: a little lower center of gravity.
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > the inside chine logs were ripped at 30 degrees, minus 5 degrees of keel
                                        > > > >gave 25 degrees side flare at its middle (more beam), which diminished towards
                                        > > > >its ends, as expected..
                                        > > > > > > > I just pulled em in an extra 1/4" towards the tips, and slammed LOTS of
                                        > > > >construction adhesive in to fill the little triangular gaps (dont tighten the
                                        > > > >screws much there). sides were put on together working from center out, one end
                                        > > > >first then the other. the chine logs were glued/clamped to the floor first day.
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > the sandwiched keel and side flare combined to give it 3" of rocker end
                                        > > > >to end, and the V of it drops your hineyÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ in another inch,
                                        > > > >with the tips riding about 1 to 1-1/2" deep. with my weight (165lb) I still had
                                        > > > >a good 7" of freeboard (1-1/2+" gunwales for sure).
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > what wasnt 1 sheet and a 12' 2x4:
                                        > > > > > > > 2 octagonal cut spreaders,
                                        > > > > > > > front-rear breastplates (luan with 3/4x5/4 at edges for grab handles),
                                        > > > > > > > 2 stem "twigs" (glued-clamped with zipties),
                                        > > > > > > > and some scraps to make the butt-seams.
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > wasted sheet? theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ four 2-1/4" by 9-1/2" triangles at
                                        > > > >the ends of bow and stern,
                                        > > > > > > > and the little bits trimmed from the bottom for rounding the "corners".
                                        > > > > > > > -which put the waterline length to about 11'6".
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > if I were to do another.. I'd sacrifice some freeboard (3 strips at
                                        > > > >8-1/8", 2 at 11-5/8")
                                        > > > > > > > for a 23" wide floor, chine to chine. the 19" of the first one is a bit
                                        > > > >tender yup.
                                        > > > > > > > some freeboard can be made up for with taller gunwales anyway.
                                        > > > >it'dÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ probably lose aÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ tiny bit from its
                                        > > > >length for going near 4" wider, go figger. it might also ride a little higher
                                        > > > >for theÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ extra square inches to the floor.. which adds up to
                                        > > > >(2+?) square footage pretty fast, I dont know if its going to affect freeboard
                                        > > > >or waterline much if any really. if nothing else, fun concept.
                                        > > > > > > > (disclaimer: I'm not a -designer- its a 1 sheet boat, build-use at your
                                        > > > >own risk)
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > attached is a couple pics of it, and the rough "plan" for anyone brave
                                        > > > >enough to go for it.
                                        > > > > > > > one-sheet-one-man-canoe.rar, has 5 .bmp images in it.
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > --- On Mon, 1/24/11, haffdaddy <haffdaddy@> wrote:
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > From: haffdaddy <haffdaddy@>
                                        > > > > > > > Subject: [onesheetwonders] Tubby Update
                                        > > > > > > > To: onesheetwonders@yahoogroups.com
                                        > > > > > > > Date: Monday, January 24, 2011, 11:30 PM
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Well I'm about to pass the Tubby 11 on to the young man. I think he needs
                                        > > > >to get to know his boat. So I'm leaving the final wood working up to him. His
                                        > > > >father is a carpenter so he will have someone there to help him get the right
                                        > > > >wood and show him how to work with wood. I think this s the best way to go.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Greg
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > One taco short of 400 lbs.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > >
                                        >
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