- yup, its a debatable about self rescue, pretty big IF, but if ya can get re-seated in a swamped smaller cockpit ya just might be able to bale it out. I d thinkMessage 1 of 31 , Feb 12, 2013View Source
yup, its a debatable about self rescue, pretty big IF, but if ya can get re-seated in a swamped smaller cockpit ya just might be able to bale it out. I'd think it kinda agility and size dependant like the first time trying to pop up standing on a surfboard to ride, it took a lot of tries! yesterday on youtube site I was checking out "microskiff" is about a 12' long narrow sit on top SUP hybrid for 2-3 hp. for sure its got a bit more weight, and more room to be able to swing yourself back aboard. its pretty neat (pretty spendy too!) and already has my brain in gear "how to build one on the cheap" outta foam, luan, and epoxyglass, like oversize surfboard style.
--- On Tue, 2/12/13, TdeM <106498@...> wrote:
From: TdeM <106498@...>
Subject: Re: [onesheetwonders] that chalupa
Date: Tuesday, February 12, 2013, 4:18 PMNot much point designing for self rescue I think. Climbing into a tiny boat without swamping it again is pretty much impossible. Better just bail out and swim it back to shore.The sail looks like a good size, but you should definitely try to get some curve into it, even if it's just a couple of darts. Broadseaming even better. What's the plan for leeway prevention?-ThomasOn Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 4:24 AM, KEN <rekkamurd@...> wrote:first of all, looking like a nice job-design-boat to me!it kinda resembles a mouseboat a lot, but looking through pictures its kinda not one too..building sequence looks like it started with 2 identical frames,the rear one closer to the transom end of the sheet,the forward one back a little further from its bow.with the sides on and bow stern blocks planted firmly (2x4 ladder to screw to maybe?)the two frames jumped with a keel stringer.. chine stringers too looks like..one side panel can be attached to the center part and frames,then warped down to the bow-stern blocks to trim away at the center line,repeating the same for the other half bottom panel.for the differences in distance of frames from bow and stern, the bow curve comes up being a little longer-taller with a narrower bow block, the stern being shorter distance comes up being a wider block.the center section being straight, likely a little more buoyancy value than a mouseboat, with much of the building process being similar yet simpler (is great!). its kind of moreso an asymetrical V-bottomed punt, but looks to share a lot in common with the mouseboat.pinning the bottom halves ends to the bow and transom blocks, marking them accurately for trimming might get a little tricky (long flexible steel straightedge?) and once trimmed they lose a little bit of their spring-back value... where it looks like a couple mid-size zipties pulls the shape together good enough for some epoxy-tape-filleting action. the center section having inside chine logs.. glue-screw-unscrew and outside seam taped probably,just no need for the inside tape and fillet.I do quite a few things "on the fly" or "planless" myself, where the building sequence itself, more or less, IS kinda the "plan".. where theres just not a lot of measurements or notes!things I might do if it were my own project?adding curved frame tops and curved bits to bow and stern blocks, a stringer down em,and wrap the curves with thin ply, where water would tend to roll off away from the cockpit.smallish side floatation boxes and rails tall enough that the curved decking wont be a problem for car-topping, as well as helping prevent a case of wet-booty. the side floatation boxes tops being drawn from the decking curves = water rolloff at those places too.(not that anyone asked they just seem good sense simple ideas)the wood already in place for decking along the cockpit, easy enough to glue clamp build a little taller for the kind of small curves I'd mentioned. if theyre closed in to become small side floatation boxes it's sure gonna rigid up the floor some more too. if the inside panels are angled out like \_____/ , still got some room to do some leaning left right, and if-when it does get knocked over, floating higher is always going to be less baling. if theres enough floatation (depending on size-weight-agility of a pilot too) self rescue may be a possibility.
criticisms? heck no not really any! the sides may not have much flare, kinda "slabby", but the build would likely be a whole lot more headache if much more flare were imposed by the frames! if Chalupa is an "off the cuff" build as I'd suspect, it looks GREAT!I hope this somewhat long winded note is helpful
- Shamrock is very nice. A little bit of cheating for the transom but who cares. Transoms are a pain to make anyway! I would probably make the bottom a bit moreMessage 31 of 31 , Feb 15, 2013View Source
Shamrock is very nice. A little bit of cheating for the transom but who cares. Transoms are a pain to make anyway! I would probably make the bottom a bit more curved at the back, to rise the transom out of the water. I've got a freeship model floating around somewhere I'll see if I can find it.On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 9:02 AM, kbgwp <kbgwp@...> wrote:
Just re-reading the messages and checked out your appie page. It is a bit smaller than I want but shows that it is possible to sail a tiny boat. I haven't decided on a design yet but I may try the shamrock design or might re-look at the summer breeze design. I might also just go back to the PDRacer design and forget the one sheet idea but I sure like the thought of using just one sheet of plywood instead of spending a lot of money on a first attempt at boat building.
At least I'm having some fun cutting and taping up pieces of paper testing out ideas.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, TdeM <106498@...> wrote:
>> Hi Brian,
> I've had a lot of fun sailing my one sheet boat (built from several
> leftovers, but still). There's a page on it here:
> That had about 2 square meters, and could take a bit more. I wouldn't go
> more than 3 though especially if still learning. The mast is bamboo, a
> great material if you can get it, cheap and very lightweight. I highly
> recommend a sprit sail. Short mast, easy to make. Sails well.
> That boat was made wide (0.8m) and short. Which gave good stability, but
> not very good speed. Now, speed is important in a sail boat, because the
> slower you go the less side force you create, meaning it becomes very hard
> to sail upwind.
> You need a big centre / lee board, especially if going slow.
> I think shamrock would make an excellent one sheet sail boat. A pointy
> skiff bow makes it very easy to install a mast, because the boat is nice
> and deep in the front giving good mast bury. Scows are the opposite.
> The hardest thing about sailing tiny boats is that you can't really move
> around. You need to work out the steering and mainsheet arrangement so you
> can sit facing forward.
> Stay close to shore wearing a life jacket!
> For a learn to sail boat, a boat like the summer breeze is probably a
> better choice in almost every way. One more sheet of plywood, but it has
> much better sailing potential.
> Anyway, enough rambling.
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