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SC1 Modded Neximage

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  • Andre
    I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed
    Message 1 of 24 , Mar 1, 2011
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      I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).

      If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
    • Marc Johnson
      ive only seen 1 other modded neximage long exposure. Cant wait 2 c ur stuff.Marc -----Original Message----- Date: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 10:50:50 pm To:
      Message 2 of 24 , Mar 2, 2011
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        ive only seen 1 other modded neximage long exposure. Cant wait 2 c ur stuff.

        Marc
        -----Original Message-----
        Date: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 10:50:50 pm
        To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
        From: "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...>
        Subject: [neximage] SC1 Modded Neximage

        I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).

        If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
      • imontam
        Hi Andre, Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend
        Message 3 of 24 , Mar 14, 2011
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          Hi Andre,
          Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.

          Monti.


          --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
          >
          > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
          >
          > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
          >
        • Andre
          You re welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I m having
          Message 4 of 24 , Mar 15, 2011
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            You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!

            Andre

            --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > Hi Andre,
            > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
            >
            > Monti.
            >
            >
            > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
            > >
            > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
            > >
            > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
            > >
            >
          • smallhokies5
            Andre, Can you give a link to your mod photos? I d like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only
            Message 5 of 24 , Mar 18, 2011
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              Andre,

              Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)

              Aaron


              --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
              >
              > Andre
              >
              > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
              > >
              > >
              > > Hi Andre,
              > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
              > >
              > > Monti.
              > >
              > >
              > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
              > > >
              > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
              > > >
              > >
              >
            • Andre
              Aaron, Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made
              Message 6 of 24 , Mar 18, 2011
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                Aaron,

                Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.

                Email me if you have any questions.

                Good luck,
                Andre

                --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                >
                > Andre,
                >
                > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                >
                > Aaron
                >
                >
                > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                > >
                > > Andre
                > >
                > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Hi Andre,
                > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                > > >
                > > > Monti.
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                > > > >
                > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                >
              • smallhokies5
                Thanks, Andre. You ve put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the
                Message 7 of 24 , Mar 20, 2011
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                  Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.

                  I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?

                  Any suggestions or insight?

                  BTW, nice image of M42.

                  Aaron


                  --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Aaron,
                  >
                  > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                  >
                  > Email me if you have any questions.
                  >
                  > Good luck,
                  > Andre
                  >
                  > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Andre,
                  > >
                  > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                  > >
                  > > Aaron
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                  > > >
                  > > > Andre
                  > > >
                  > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Hi Andre,
                  > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Monti.
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                  > > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  >
                • Andre
                  Thanks. I m glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend s
                  Message 8 of 24 , Mar 20, 2011
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                    Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.

                    I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.

                    Andre

                    --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                    >
                    > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                    >
                    > Any suggestions or insight?
                    >
                    > BTW, nice image of M42.
                    >
                    > Aaron
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > Aaron,
                    > >
                    > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                    > >
                    > > Email me if you have any questions.
                    > >
                    > > Good luck,
                    > > Andre
                    > >
                    > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > Andre,
                    > > >
                    > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                    > > >
                    > > > Aaron
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Andre
                    > > > >
                    > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Hi Andre,
                    > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Monti.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                    > > > > > >
                    > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                    > > > > > >
                    > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                    > > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    >
                  • smallhokies5
                    Andre (or anyone else who can help), I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my
                    Message 9 of 24 , Apr 4, 2011
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                      Andre (or anyone else who can help),

                      I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.

                      I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.

                      Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???

                      I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.

                      Anybody have ideas?

                      Aaron

                      --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                      >
                      > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                      >
                      > Andre
                      >
                      > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                      > >
                      > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                      > >
                      > > Any suggestions or insight?
                      > >
                      > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                      > >
                      > > Aaron
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > Aaron,
                      > > >
                      > > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                      > > >
                      > > > Email me if you have any questions.
                      > > >
                      > > > Good luck,
                      > > > Andre
                      > > >
                      > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Andre,
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Aaron
                      > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Andre
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > Hi Andre,
                      > > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > Monti.
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                      > > > > > > >
                      > > > > > >
                      > > > > >
                      > > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      >
                    • smallhokies5
                      Here is a link to the images I posted: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/1114326279/pic/list
                      Message 10 of 24 , Apr 4, 2011
                      • 0 Attachment

                        Here is a link to the images I posted:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/1114326279/pic/list


                        --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                        >
                        > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                        >
                        > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                        >
                        > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                        >
                        > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                        >
                        > Anybody have ideas?
                        >
                        > Aaron
                        >
                        > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                        > >
                        > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                        > >
                        > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                        > >
                        > > Andre
                        > >
                        > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                        > > >
                        > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                        > > >
                        > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                        > > >
                        > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                        > > >
                        > > > Aaron
                        > > >
                        > > >
                        > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Aaron,
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Email me if you have any questions.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Good luck,
                        > > > > Andre
                        > > > >
                        > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Andre,
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Aaron
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > Andre
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > Hi Andre,
                        > > > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > Monti.
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                        > > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > > >
                        > > > > > >
                        > > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > >
                        > >
                        >

                      • Andre
                        You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn t support them. You can
                        Message 11 of 24 , Apr 4, 2011
                        • 0 Attachment
                          You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.

                          There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.

                          If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!

                          Andre

                          --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                          >
                          > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                          >
                          > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                          >
                          > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                          >
                          > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                          >
                          > Anybody have ideas?
                          >
                          > Aaron
                          >
                          > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                          > >
                          > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                          > >
                          > > Andre
                          > >
                          > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                          > > >
                          > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                          > > >
                          > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                          > > >
                          > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                          > > >
                          > > > Aaron
                          > > >
                          > > >
                          > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Aaron,
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Email me if you have any questions.
                          > > > >
                          > > > > Good luck,
                          > > > > Andre
                          > > > >
                          > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > Andre,
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > Aaron
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > Andre
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > Hi Andre,
                          > > > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > Monti.
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                          > > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > > >
                          > > > > > >
                          > > > > >
                          > > > >
                          > > >
                          > >
                          >
                        • Andre
                          Here s an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures,
                          Message 12 of 24 , Apr 4, 2011
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.


                            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc


                            --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                            >
                            > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                            >
                            > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                            >
                            > Andre
                            >
                            > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                            > >
                            > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                            > >
                            > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                            > >
                            > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                            > >
                            > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                            > >
                            > > Anybody have ideas?
                            > >
                            > > Aaron
                            > >
                            > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                            > > >
                            > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                            > > >
                            > > > Andre
                            > > >
                            > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                            > > > >
                            > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Aaron
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Aaron,
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Email me if you have any questions.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Good luck,
                            > > > > > Andre
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Andre,
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > Aaron
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > Andre
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > Hi Andre,
                            > > > > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > Monti.
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                            > > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > > >
                            > > > > > >
                            > > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            >
                          • smallhokies5
                            Andre, If you haven t seen it, I found Martin Burri s circuit upon which Freddy Diaz circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage
                            Message 13 of 24 , Apr 18, 2011
                            • 0 Attachment

                              Andre,

                              If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif

                              If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!

                              I'll keep you posted on my progress.

                              Aaron


                              --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                              >
                              >
                              > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                              >
                              >
                              > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                              > >
                              > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                              > >
                              > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                              > >
                              > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                              > >
                              > > Andre
                              > >
                              > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                              > > >
                              > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                              > > >
                              > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                              > > >
                              > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                              > > >
                              > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                              > > >
                              > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                              > > >
                              > > > Anybody have ideas?
                              > > >
                              > > > Aaron
                              > > >
                              > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                              > > > >
                              > > > > Andre
                              > > > >
                              > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > Aaron
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > >
                              > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Aaron,
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Email me if you have any questions.
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > Good luck,
                              > > > > > > Andre
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > Andre,
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > Aaron
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > Andre
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > Hi Andre,
                              > > > > > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > Monti.
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                              > > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > > >
                              > > > > > >
                              > > > > >
                              > > > >
                              > > >
                              > >
                              >

                            • Andre Cruz
                              Good luck! I don t think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don t
                              Message 14 of 24 , Apr 19, 2011
                              • 0 Attachment
                                Good luck!  I don't think we need Amp Off though.  That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside.  Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images.  I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47.  I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue.  I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend.  I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.

                                Andre Cruz

                                On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:

                                 

                                Andre,

                                If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif

                                If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!

                                I'll keep you posted on my progress.

                                Aaron


                                --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                >
                                >
                                > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                >
                                >
                                > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                > >
                                > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                > >
                                > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                > >
                                > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                > >
                                > > Andre
                                > >
                                > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                > > >
                                > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                > > >
                                > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                > > >
                                > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                > > >
                                > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                > > >
                                > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                > > >
                                > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                > > >
                                > > > Aaron
                                > > >
                                > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                > > > >
                                > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Andre
                                > > > >
                                > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > Aaron
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > Aaron,
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > Email me if you have any questions.
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > Good luck,
                                > > > > > > Andre
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Andre,
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > Aaron
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > Andre
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                                > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > > Hi Andre,
                                > > > > > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                                > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > > Monti.
                                > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                > > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                                > > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                                > > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > > >
                                > > > > > >
                                > > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > >
                                > >
                                >

                              • Hemmings, Rob K.
                                Andre, It has nothing to do with LEDs. The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This
                                Message 15 of 24 , Apr 19, 2011
                                • 0 Attachment

                                  Andre,

                                   

                                  It has nothing to do with LEDs.

                                  The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the

                                  amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself.  This only become apparent

                                  in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those

                                  who use exposures longer than this.

                                  What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the

                                  sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to

                                  reduce the effect.

                                   

                                  There is some background information here which may help:

                                  http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html

                                   

                                  Regards,

                                  --

                                  Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)

                                   

                                  From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                  Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                  To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                  Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                   




                                  Good luck!  I don't think we need Amp Off though.  That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside.  Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images.  I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47.  I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue.  I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend.  I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.

                                  Andre Cruz


                                  On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:

                                   

                                  Andre,

                                  If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif

                                  If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!

                                  I'll keep you posted on my progress.

                                  Aaron


                                  --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                  > >
                                  > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                  > >
                                  > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                  > >
                                  > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                  > >
                                  > > Andre
                                  > >
                                  > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                  > > >
                                  > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Aaron
                                  > > >
                                  > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Andre
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > Aaron
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Aaron,
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Check the Photos section in this group. Look for the folder called Andre Cruz. Inside you will see some pictures I took during the two mods I made recently. Basically, the process is technically the same as what you see on Freddy Diaz's website. The colors of the older Rev. 1 board is different than my Rev. 2 board, but their position is the same. On the Rev. 2 board, you'll be cutting the orange and yellow wires instead of brown and orange. The 4066 chip I used is different also. It has long pins/legs that I pushed through holes in a blank circuit board. I also fed the resistor ends into the same holes on the appropriate pins, cutting down on some of the soldering. Finally, instead of soldering the red and black wires from the chip to the very small pins opposite the USB plug, I soldered them directly to the USB cords black/red wires. I just used the tip of the solder iron to melt a small portion of the wired sheathing away from the USB cord's red/black wires, then soldered the red/black wires from my new circuit board to those.
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Email me if you have any questions.
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > Good luck,
                                  > > > > > > Andre
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                  > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > Andre,
                                  > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > Can you give a link to your mod photos? I'd like to see how your mod differs from what I was planning especially since I may have a 2nd rev camera (only 15 mo. Old)
                                  > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > Aaron
                                  > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                  > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > You're welcome. I hope it works out for you. I just modded another Neximage for a friend in my local club. This time I used an even smaller PCB. I'm having a lot of fun with mine!
                                  > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > Andre
                                  > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "imontam" <monti@> wrote:
                                  > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > > Hi Andre,
                                  > > > > > > > > > Thanks for the information!... The USB cable of my original NI cracked a few months ago due to use in cold temperatures. I got a new NI, and a friend is fixing the old one, and also trying to do the "long exp" mod on it. If it works, I'll try using it for very specific applications along with the planetary imaging. I'll forward your alternate procedure to him.
                                  > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > > Monti.
                                  > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                  > > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > > > I finally decided to try my hand at the Neximage SC1 Mod. I did it a bit differently than the instructions I found on the web. I used a 4066BE chip and layed it out on a circular PCB. For the parallel cable, I used twisted-pair telephone wire soldered to a 4A adapter. I am not skilled with a solder iron and I'm no electronics guru. So, if you've been holding off on trying this modification, give it a try. I'm posting pictures in my gallery folder (Andre Cruz).
                                  > > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > > > If you've seen other pictures of this mod performed on a rev. 1 camera, you probably noticed the wire colors are different than a rev. 2 camera. I took my chances to ignore the colors and just cut the same wires as the other instructions. I also cut the black and red USB cables before the connection to the circuit board, since it was easier to solder.
                                  > > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > > >
                                  > > > > > >
                                  > > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > >
                                  >




                                • Andre Cruz
                                  Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn t see that as one of the option on the website of the company that
                                  Message 16 of 24 , Apr 19, 2011
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Thanks for the clarification Rob.  I must have read that wrong somewhere.  I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams.  Thanks again.

                                    Andre Cruz

                                    On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    Andre,

                                     

                                    It has nothing to do with LEDs.

                                    The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the

                                    amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself.  This only become apparent

                                    in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those

                                    who use exposures longer than this.

                                    What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the

                                    sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to

                                    reduce the effect.

                                     

                                    There is some background information here which may help:

                                    http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html

                                     

                                    Regards,

                                    --

                                    Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)

                                     

                                    From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                    Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                    To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                     




                                    Good luck!  I don't think we need Amp Off though.  That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside.  Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images.  I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47.  I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue.  I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend.  I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.

                                    Andre Cruz


                                    On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    Andre,

                                    If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif

                                    If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!

                                    I'll keep you posted on my progress.

                                    Aaron


                                    --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                    > >
                                    > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                    > >
                                    > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                    > >
                                    > > Andre
                                    > >
                                    > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                    > > >
                                    > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                    > > >
                                    > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Aaron
                                    > > >
                                    > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > Andre
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > Aaron
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > >
                                    > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                    >

                                  • smallhokies5
                                    It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took
                                    Message 17 of 24 , Apr 24, 2011
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.

                                      I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.

                                      Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?

                                      Aaron

                                      --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                      >
                                      > Andre Cruz
                                      >
                                      > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > > Andre,
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                      > >
                                      > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                      > >
                                      > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                      > >
                                      > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                      > >
                                      > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                      > >
                                      > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                      > >
                                      > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                      > >
                                      > > reduce the effect.
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                      > >
                                      > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > Regards,
                                      > >
                                      > > --
                                      > >
                                      > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                      > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                      > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                      > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                      > >
                                      > > Andre Cruz
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > Andre,
                                      > >
                                      > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                      > >
                                      > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                      > >
                                      > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                      > >
                                      > > Aaron
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > Andre
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > Aaron
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > Andre
                                      > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > Aaron
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > >
                                      > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      >
                                    • Tim Nicholson
                                      Hi Aaron, I like to use WxAstrocapture but I m not sure where to download it from or if it will work on Windows 7 X64. Do you know if it will? Thanks in
                                      Message 18 of 24 , Apr 24, 2011
                                      • 0 Attachment

                                        Hi Aaron,

                                        I like to use WxAstrocapture but I'm not sure where to download it from or if it will work on Windows 7 X64. Do you know if it will?

                                        Thanks in advance!

                                        Tim

                                         

                                        From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smallhokies5
                                        Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 1:09 PM
                                        To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                        Subject: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                         

                                         

                                        It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.

                                        I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.

                                        Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?

                                        Aaron

                                        --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                        >
                                        > Andre Cruz
                                        >
                                        > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > > Andre,
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                        > >
                                        > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                        > >
                                        > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                        > >
                                        > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                        > >
                                        > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                        > >
                                        > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                        > >
                                        > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                        > >
                                        > > reduce the effect.
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                        > >
                                        > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > Regards,
                                        > >
                                        > > --
                                        > >
                                        > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                        > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                        > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                        > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                        > >
                                        > > Andre Cruz
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > Andre,
                                        > >
                                        > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                        > >
                                        > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                        > >
                                        > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                        > >
                                        > > Aaron
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Andre
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > Aaron
                                        > > > > >
                                        > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > Andre
                                        > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > Aaron
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > >
                                        > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                        > > >
                                        >

                                      • Hemmings, Rob K.
                                        As I understand it, the NexImage uses the same board as a Philips ToUcam 740K/840K, so any circuit for those should work (one method is by Greg Beeke.) The
                                        Message 19 of 24 , Apr 24, 2011
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          As I understand it, the NexImage uses the same board as
                                          a Philips ToUcam 740K/840K, so any circuit for those
                                          should work (one method is by Greg Beeke.)
                                          The default serial port pin for long exposure (LX) in
                                          wxAstrocapture is RTS, with DTR used to drive the
                                          Amp-off circuit. However, thse can be easily swapped
                                          by going to the LE Control Port tab in Options, Settings.
                                          You also need to check the Use Amp box on the right.

                                          HTH,
                                          --
                                          Rob (~52N, ~1W)


                                          ________________________________________
                                          From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smallhokies5 [5smallhokies@...]
                                          Sent: 24 April 2011 18:09
                                          To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                          Subject: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                          It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.

                                          I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.

                                          Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?

                                          Aaron

                                          --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                          >
                                          > Andre Cruz
                                          >
                                          > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > > Andre,
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                          > >
                                          > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                          > >
                                          > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                          > >
                                          > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                          > >
                                          > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                          > >
                                          > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                          > >
                                          > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                          > >
                                          > > reduce the effect.
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                          > >
                                          > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > Regards,
                                          > >
                                          > > --
                                          > >
                                          > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                          > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                          > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                          > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                          > >
                                          > > Andre Cruz
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > Andre,
                                          > >
                                          > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                          > >
                                          > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                          > >
                                          > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                          > >
                                          > > Aaron
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                          > > >
                                          > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                          > > >
                                          > > >
                                          > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                          > > >
                                          > > >
                                          > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > Andre
                                          > > > >
                                          > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > Aaron
                                          > > > > >
                                          > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > Andre
                                          > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > Aaron
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > >
                                          > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                          > > >
                                          >




                                          ------------------------------------

                                          Yahoo! Groups Links



                                          http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                        • smallhokies5
                                          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/1114326279/pic/list Not M53 as stated in previous post. It was M51.
                                          Message 20 of 24 , Apr 24, 2011
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/1114326279/pic/list

                                            Not M53 as stated in previous post. It was M51.

                                            --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                                            >
                                            > It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.
                                            >
                                            > I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.
                                            >
                                            > Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?
                                            >
                                            > Aaron
                                            >
                                            > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                            > >
                                            > > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                            > >
                                            > > Andre Cruz
                                            > >
                                            > > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@> wrote:
                                            > >
                                            > > > Andre,
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                            > > >
                                            > > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                            > > >
                                            > > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                            > > >
                                            > > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                            > > >
                                            > > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                            > > >
                                            > > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                            > > >
                                            > > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                            > > >
                                            > > > reduce the effect.
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                            > > >
                                            > > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > Regards,
                                            > > >
                                            > > > --
                                            > > >
                                            > > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                            > > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                            > > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                            > > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                            > > >
                                            > > > Andre Cruz
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > Andre,
                                            > > >
                                            > > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                            > > >
                                            > > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                            > > >
                                            > > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                            > > >
                                            > > > Aaron
                                            > > >
                                            > > >
                                            > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                            > > > >
                                            > > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                            > > > >
                                            > > > >
                                            > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                            > > > >
                                            > > > >
                                            > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                            > > > > >
                                            > > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                            > > > > >
                                            > > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                            > > > > >
                                            > > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                            > > > > >
                                            > > > > > Andre
                                            > > > > >
                                            > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > Aaron
                                            > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                            > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                            > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                            > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > Andre
                                            > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                            > > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                            > > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                            > > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                            > > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                            > > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > > Aaron
                                            > > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > >
                                            > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                            > > > >
                                            > >
                                            >
                                          • MALEKOS ALEKARAS
                                            Hello .It works on Win 7 64 bit . http://arnholm.org/astro/software/wxAstroCapture/ ... Από: Tim Nicholson Θέμα: RE:
                                            Message 21 of 24 , Apr 25, 2011
                                            • 0 Attachment

                                              Hello .It works on Win 7 64 bit .

                                              http://arnholm.org/astro/software/wxAstroCapture/

                                              --- Στις Κυρ., 24/04/11, ο/η Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...> έγραψε:

                                              Από: Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...>
                                              Θέμα: RE: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                              Προς: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                              Ημερομηνία: Κυριακή, 24 Απρίλιος 2011, 21:12

                                               

                                              Hi Aaron,

                                              I like to use WxAstrocapture but I'm not sure where to download it from or if it will work on Windows 7 X64. Do you know if it will?

                                              Thanks in advance!

                                              Tim

                                               

                                              From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smallhokies5
                                              Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 1:09 PM
                                              To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                              Subject: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                               

                                               

                                              It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.

                                              I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.

                                              Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?

                                              Aaron

                                              --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                              >
                                              > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                              >
                                              > Andre Cruz
                                              >
                                              > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@...> wrote:
                                              >
                                              > > Andre,
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                              > >
                                              > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                              > >
                                              > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                              > >
                                              > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                              > >
                                              > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                              > >
                                              > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                              > >
                                              > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                              > >
                                              > > reduce the effect.
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                              > >
                                              > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > Regards,
                                              > >
                                              > > --
                                              > >
                                              > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                              > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                              > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                              > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                              > >
                                              > > Andre Cruz
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > Andre,
                                              > >
                                              > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                              > >
                                              > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                              > >
                                              > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                              > >
                                              > > Aaron
                                              > >
                                              > >
                                              > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                              > > >
                                              > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                              > > >
                                              > > >
                                              > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                              > > >
                                              > > >
                                              > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                              > > > >
                                              > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                              > > > >
                                              > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                              > > > >
                                              > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                              > > > >
                                              > > > > Andre
                                              > > > >
                                              > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > Aaron
                                              > > > > >
                                              > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                              > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                              > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                              > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > Andre
                                              > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                              > > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                              > > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                              > > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                              > > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                              > > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > > Aaron
                                              > > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > >
                                              > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                              > > >
                                              >

                                            • Tim Nicholson
                                              Thank you! Tim From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of MALEKOS ALEKARAS Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 1:53 PM To:
                                              Message 22 of 24 , Apr 25, 2011
                                              • 0 Attachment

                                                Thank you!

                                                Tim

                                                 

                                                From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of MALEKOS ALEKARAS
                                                Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 1:53 PM
                                                To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                Subject: RE: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                                 

                                                 


                                                Hello .It works on Win 7 64 bit .

                                                http://arnholm.org/astro/software/wxAstroCapture/

                                                --- Στις Κυρ., 24/04/11, ο/η Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...> έγραψε:


                                                Από: Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...>
                                                Θέμα: RE: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                Προς: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                Ημερομηνία: Κυριακή, 24 Απρίλιος 2011, 21:12

                                                 

                                                Hi Aaron,

                                                I like to use WxAstrocapture but I'm not sure where to download it from or if it will work on Windows 7 X64. Do you know if it will?

                                                Thanks in advance!

                                                Tim

                                                 

                                                From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smallhokies5
                                                Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 1:09 PM
                                                To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                Subject: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                                 

                                                 

                                                It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.

                                                I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.

                                                Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?

                                                Aaron

                                                --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@...> wrote:
                                                >
                                                > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                                >
                                                > Andre Cruz
                                                >
                                                > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@...> wrote:
                                                >
                                                > > Andre,
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                                > >
                                                > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                                > >
                                                > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                                > >
                                                > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                                > >
                                                > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                                > >
                                                > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                                > >
                                                > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                                > >
                                                > > reduce the effect.
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                                > >
                                                > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > Regards,
                                                > >
                                                > > --
                                                > >
                                                > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                                > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                                > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                                > >
                                                > > Andre Cruz
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@...> wrote:
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > Andre,
                                                > >
                                                > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                                > >
                                                > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                                > >
                                                > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                                > >
                                                > > Aaron
                                                > >
                                                > >
                                                > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                > > >
                                                > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                                > > >
                                                > > >
                                                > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                                > > >
                                                > > >
                                                > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > Andre
                                                > > > >
                                                > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > Aaron
                                                > > > > >
                                                > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                                > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                                > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > Andre
                                                > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                > > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                                > > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                                > > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                                > > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                                > > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > > Aaron
                                                > > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > >
                                                > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                > > >
                                                >

                                              • smallhokies5
                                                Malekos, Tim beat me to it. I use WxAC on Win 7 64. Make sure you follow the instructions as I remember having to copy some files to a certain windows
                                                Message 23 of 24 , Apr 25, 2011
                                                • 0 Attachment
                                                  Malekos,

                                                  Tim beat me to it. I use WxAC on Win 7 64. Make sure you follow the instructions as I remember having to copy some files to a certain windows subdirectory.

                                                  I recommend you join the WxAstroCapture yahoo group too. Very helpful.

                                                  Aaron

                                                  --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Tim Nicholson" <timi_nicholson1956@...> wrote:
                                                  >
                                                  > Thank you!
                                                  >
                                                  > Tim
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of MALEKOS ALEKARAS
                                                  > Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 1:53 PM
                                                  > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                  > Subject: RE: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > Hello .It works on Win 7 64 bit .
                                                  >
                                                  > http://arnholm.org/astro/software/wxAstroCapture/
                                                  >
                                                  > --- Στις Κυρ., 24/04/11, ο/η Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...> έγραψε:
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > Î`πό: Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...>
                                                  > Θέμα: RE: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                  > Προς: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                  > Ημερομηνία: Κυριακή, 24 Î`πρίλιος 2011, 21:12
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > Hi Aaron,
                                                  >
                                                  > I like to use WxAstrocapture but I'm not sure where to download it from or if it will work on Windows 7 X64. Do you know if it will?
                                                  >
                                                  > Thanks in advance!
                                                  >
                                                  > Tim
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smallhokies5
                                                  > Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 1:09 PM
                                                  > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                  > Subject: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.
                                                  >
                                                  > I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.
                                                  >
                                                  > Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?
                                                  >
                                                  > Aaron
                                                  >
                                                  > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                  > >
                                                  > > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                                  > >
                                                  > > Andre Cruz
                                                  > >
                                                  > > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@> wrote:
                                                  > >
                                                  > > > Andre,
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > reduce the effect.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Regards,
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > --
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                                  > > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                                  > > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                  > > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Andre Cruz
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Andre,
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > Aaron
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > >
                                                  > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode= <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc> &mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > Andre
                                                  > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > Aaron
                                                  > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                  > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                                  > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                                  > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > Andre
                                                  > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                  > > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                                  > > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                                  > > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                                  > > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                                  > > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > > Aaron
                                                  > > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > >
                                                  > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                  > > > >
                                                  > >
                                                  >
                                                • Chris Cole
                                                  ________________________________ From: smallhokies5 To: neximage@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, April 25, 2011 8:47:28 PM Subject:
                                                  Message 24 of 24 , Apr 26, 2011
                                                  • 0 Attachment



                                                    From: smallhokies5 <5smallhokies@...>
                                                    To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                    Sent: Mon, April 25, 2011 8:47:28 PM
                                                    Subject: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage

                                                     

                                                    Malekos,

                                                    Tim beat me to it. I use WxAC on Win 7 64. Make sure you follow the instructions as I remember having to copy some files to a certain windows subdirectory.

                                                    I recommend you join the WxAstroCapture yahoo group too. Very helpful.

                                                    Aaron

                                                    --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Tim Nicholson" <timi_nicholson1956@...> wrote:
                                                    >
                                                    > Thank you!
                                                    >
                                                    > Tim
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of MALEKOS ALEKARAS
                                                    > Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 1:53 PM
                                                    > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                    > Subject: RE: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > Hello .It works on Win 7 64 bit .
                                                    >
                                                    > http://arnholm.org/astro/software/wxAstroCapture/
                                                    >
                                                    > --- Στις Κυ�., 24/04/11, ο/η Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...> έγ�αψε:
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > Î`πό: Tim Nicholson <timi_nicholson1956@...>
                                                    > Θέμα: RE: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                    > Π�ος: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                    > ΗμεÏ�ομηνία: ΚυÏ�ιακή, 24 Î`Ï€Ï�ίλιος 2011, 21:12
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > Hi Aaron,
                                                    >
                                                    > I like to use WxAstrocapture but I'm not sure where to download it from or if it will work on Windows 7 X64. Do you know if it will?
                                                    >
                                                    > Thanks in advance!
                                                    >
                                                    > Tim
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of smallhokies5
                                                    > Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 1:09 PM
                                                    > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                    > Subject: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > It works!!!! As soon as I can get some images uploaded (probably later tonight) I will show you what I was able to get (even on a poor night). I also took pictures of the mod as I used a wirewrap tool to offset my poor soldering skills.
                                                    >
                                                    > I was able to shoot M53 and able to pick up items I couldn't see in the eyepiece being so dim. At 2 minute exposure, the Amp Glow is apparent so now I need to open it up and figure out what wire is Pin/Pad 8 on the CCD chip. That will allow the Amp Off circuit.
                                                    >
                                                    > Is there anybody with another webcam mod and the Amp off circuit that can tell me how it functions with our typical software (I use WxAstroCapture)? Will I need a switch for the shutter instead of using the DTR serial port?
                                                    >
                                                    > Aaron
                                                    >
                                                    > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, Andre Cruz <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                    > >
                                                    > > Thanks for the clarification Rob. I must have read that wrong somewhere. I also didn't see that as one of the option on the website of the company that professionally mods the Neximage and Phillips cameras, yet it was available for other webcams. Thanks again.
                                                    > >
                                                    > > Andre Cruz
                                                    > >
                                                    > > On Apr 19, 2011, at 8:35 AM, "Hemmings, Rob K." <rkh@> wrote:
                                                    > >
                                                    > > > Andre,
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > It has nothing to do with LEDs.
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > The amp-off mod is to reduce electroluminescent glow created by the
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > amplifier circuitry within the sensor itself. This only become apparent
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > in exposures longer than about 60s, so will only be important for those
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > who use exposures longer than this.
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > What amp-off modifications do is reduce the voltage supply to the
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > sensor slightly, but only during the exposure period, which helps to
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > reduce the effect.
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > There is some background information here which may help:
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > http://www.slscope.co.uk/astro_projects/webcam_mods/background/background.html
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > Regards,
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > --
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > Rob Hemmings (QCUIAG member)
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > From: neximage@yahoogroups.com [mailto:neximage@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre Cruz
                                                    > > > Sent: 19 April 2011 13:04
                                                    > > > To: neximage@yahoogroups.com
                                                    > > > Subject: Re: [neximage] Re: SC1 Modded Neximage
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > Good luck! I don't think we need Amp Off though. That is for conventional webcams that have an LED inside. Our Neximage cameras do not have one so we don't need to worry about light from the LED negatively affecting our images. I used my camera last night to take some pics of M47. I ran my exposures for up to 60 seconds before my mount's tracking became the issue. I'm hoping to get out to my dark sky site this weekend. I think globular clusters are going to be great targets for these cams.
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > Andre Cruz
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > On Apr 18, 2011, at 9:58 PM, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > Andre,
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > If you haven't seen it, I found Martin Burri's circuit upon which Freddy Diaz' circuit is based and also the animation that explains how the voltage signals the LE mode: http://www.burri-web.org/bm98/l3k/long-mod-ani.gif
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > If this works, I may see if I can figure out if it is just as easy to modify for the amp off which would give even longer exposures!
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > I'll keep you posted on my progress.
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > Aaron
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > >
                                                    > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                    > > > >
                                                    > > > > Here's an image I took last night with the modded Neximage, using wxAstroCapture. I used the batch record feature to make 2, 5, 9 and 13 second exposures, then stacked them all in Registax.
                                                    > > > >
                                                    > > > >
                                                    > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode= <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neximage/photos/album/689140063/pic/1235044745/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc> &mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
                                                    > > > >
                                                    > > > >
                                                    > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" cruz_andrec@ wrote:
                                                    > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > You will need to use wxAstroCapture or a similar program such as K3CCDTools if you want to do the long exposures since AMCap doesn't support them. You can still use AMCap for your planetary work. If you performed the basic SC1 mod (using a parallel adapter), you should be using the LPT1 port on the LE Settings page, not a COM (serial port). Use the default settings but also check Use Shutter. Also, change your frame rate to 5 fps. It keeps the compression off and also eliminates that horizontal banding I can see in your photo. Also make sure you check Long Exposure on the main screen to enable long exposures. If you don't, than you'll only be taking normal exposures which wouldn't show star trails. If you performed the parallel to serial modification, I can't help you there as I have not yet done it and am not sure what the settings should be.
                                                    > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > There is a wxAstroCapture Yahoo! group as well and they have the manual posted. I did my first tests on Orion with my mount tracking. It's easier (for me) to make sure it's working by picking up the nebulosity of a 4 or 5 second exposure as opposed to checking for star trails.
                                                    > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > If this doesn't help, take some screen shots of each tab in wxAstroCapture and I will look at them. Good luck!
                                                    > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > Andre
                                                    > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > Andre (or anyone else who can help),
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > I went ahead and performed the mod (I had already ordered the parts when I got your PM + I am working on a mod for my focuser - more on that later). The only thing I can't figure out is how to make it work consistently. I spent last evening pointed at any old star (poor conditions) and get a star trail using a 10 sec LX.
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > I'm using wxAstroCapture which seems to work better than AMcap. wx can configure what the DTR and RTS ports control and I assumed that the default setting would work since this mod is based on the original SC1.
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > Most of the captures were normal images with each frame spaced 10 sec apart - no star trails. I then played with the settings more and got the same or nothing (all black frames). Finally on the last AVI, I got a star trail on the 5th frame of a 6 frame AVI. The other 5 frames were black.???
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > I've uploaded a image of the star trail as well as a screen capture of my wxastrocapture LX settings.
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > Anybody have ideas?
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > Aaron
                                                    > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                    > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > Thanks. I'm glad the pics were useful. The PCB does look big and in my first mod, it was quite a squeeze to get it in. The second mod I did to a friend's camera worked much better and I had no problems fitting it into the case. I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of circular printed circuit boards. It's a variety pack that has 5 or 6 different sizes. The second to smallest board was perfect. After I soldered it all together, I wrapped a small piece of electrical tape around the board so that none of the new pins would touch the existing circuit boards. It fits right in the middle on top of the existing boards. I cut a very small notch in the top case where the cords exit. The notch isn't even noticeable and is only big enough to ensure the cords aren't pinched. I fingernail clipper worked great for making the notch.
                                                    > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > I am using the parallel cable because my observatory laptop is an IBM T30 that has the required port. I do have a Mac though that I would like to use so I'm also thinking about making the parallel to serial/USB adapter. I was hoping it would be as simple as changing the plug, but after researching it some, I learned that a serial port has different voltage than a parallel so that is why the extra elecronics are required. I'm pretty sure you can use either Steve or Freddy's design but I don't have any first hand experience with that yet. I hope to try it out within the next couple of weeks and will let you know how it goes.
                                                    > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > Andre
                                                    > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "smallhokies5" <5smallhokies@> wrote:
                                                    > > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > > Thanks, Andre. You've put my mind at ease about the different camera revisions. Good idea about the USB wires. That should work much easier without the possibility of "burning" components in the camera. Where did you fit your board in the camera body? It seems to big with the PCB.
                                                    > > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > > I see that you have used the 25 pin parallel adapter for the LX connection. I was going to try a circuit that went straight to serial (I have a serial to USB adapter that I also use for my scope because I only have USB on the laptop). Freddy shows a 25 pin parallel to 25 pin serial that he then attached a 25 pin to 9 pin serial adapter and then the serial to USB cable. My hope is to avoid all this hardware but I'm confused with his pin descriptions. Steve Chambers shows a parallel to 9-pin serial circuit that Freddy modifies. Can I use Steve's circuit or is Freddie's different?
                                                    > > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > > Any suggestions or insight?
                                                    > > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > > BTW, nice image of M42.
                                                    > > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > > Aaron
                                                    > > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > >
                                                    > > > > > > > > --- In neximage@yahoogroups.com, "Andre" <cruz_andrec@> wrote:
                                                    > > > >
                                                    > >
                                                    >

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