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Re: [Newport Sailboats] Thru hull removal

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  • Douglas Bauer
    If your thruhulls are like the ones on Majaca, they are probably bronze and should be OK to re-use. You will just need to clean out the old caulking compound
    Message 1 of 22 , Jul 1, 2009
      If your thruhulls are like the ones on Majaca, they are probably bronze and should be OK to re-use. You will just need to clean out the old caulking compound and rebed them with new caulk. Don't use 5200. It is more of an adhesive than a caulk.

      One other thing to keep in mind is that the threads on the thruhull are straight (NPS), not tapered (NPT) like on most pipe fittings. Most seacocks are designed with straight threads on one side (to screw directly onto the thruhull) and tapered threads on the other side (for the hose nipple or other standard NPT plumbing fitting.)

      NPT fittings will engage the NPS threads, but they will generally only go on for a turn or two. Not enough for a secure fit. You are depending on this joint to keep your boat from sinking!

      West Marine has a short "West Advisor" piece on this subject at http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/westadvisor/10001/-1/10001/Plumbing-Seacocks.htm?x=0&storeId=10001&keyword=WA+Seacocks&jspStoreDir=wm51&catalogId=10001&y=0&ddkey=SiteSearch.

      Doug Bauer
      s/v Majaca, '76 N28
      S. Portland, ME

      dougbauer@...


      ----- Original Message -----
      From: emlesnick
      To: newportsailboats@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 9:37 AM
      Subject: [Newport Sailboats] Thru hull removal





      Hey all. Well I got the old head out but it was a horrorshow. Had to cut into the fiberglass to acess the underside of the bolts holding head down only to find that they were covered with epoxy from underneath. I ended up cutting out the bolts from the top. Anyways, during dismantling of the head I was taking off the hoses and looking at the plasic gates that have to go and it seemed like the whole thru head was spinning. Which it was. Well I was going to replace the seacocks but now it looks like thru hulls too.

      Any advice on taking them out. Or reinstalling?

      It looks as though there are two grooves inside the thru hull to accept some kind of tool to prevent the thru hull from spinning when tightening or loosening the backing nut. Is there such a tool? How do u keep the whole thing from just spinning?

      I plan to use a meathod I saw in good old boat with a threaded rod and wood blocks for removal. Also the area to loosen backing nut is so tight I'm planning to buy a larger basin wrench to accomodate the tight space but would appreciate any other suggestions.

      Also, can I get the seacocks through a regular plumbing supply house? Would it be any different from a "marine" ball valve shut off?

      I'm loosing steam on this project and just keep uncovering more work. I'm starting to be doubtful that I'll get in the water this year. Oh well I just have to keep plugging away. Thanks to everyone for all their help. I'd have nevermade it this far without you guys!





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • neptune_24_001
      I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood that was just the right fit to
      Message 2 of 22 , Jul 1, 2009
        I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood that was just the right fit to tighten the thru hull. you need two people to get the old one out, but after you install the seacock you can just screw the thru hull in from outside. the old ones pretty much came right out after the backing bolt was removed.
      • Eric Lesnick
        Update on the thruhull. Can t get the backing nut off of one of them. I ve tried everything I can think of. I ve sprayed it with liquid wrench and even taken
        Message 3 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
          Update on the thruhull. Can't get the backing nut off of one of them.
          I've tried everything I can think of. I've sprayed it with liquid
          wrench and even taken the torch to loosen up the backing nut. Any
          suggestions?

          Eric Lesnick

          On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:11 PM, neptune_24_001 <neptune_24_001@...>
          wrote:

          >
          >
          > I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with
          > bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood that was
          > just the right fit to tighten the thru hull. you need two people to
          > get the old one out, but after you install the seacock you can just
          > screw the thru hull in from outside. the old ones pretty much came
          > right out after the backing bolt was removed.
          >
          >


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Tim Minski
          had to take a mean little 4 grinder to mine. worked just fine. Tim ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          Message 4 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
            had to take a mean little 4" grinder to mine. worked just fine.

            Tim

            On Jul 7, 2009, at 3:28 PM, Eric Lesnick <emlesnick@...> wrote:

            >
            >
            > Update on the thruhull. Can't get the backing nut off of one of them.
            > I've tried everything I can think of. I've sprayed it with liquid
            > wrench and even taken the torch to loosen up the backing nut. Any
            > suggestions?
            >
            > Eric Lesnick
            >
            > On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:11 PM, neptune_24_001 <neptune_24_001@...>
            > wrote:
            >
            > >
            > >
            > > I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with
            > > bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood that was
            > > just the right fit to tighten the thru hull. you need two people to
            > > get the old one out, but after you install the seacock you can just
            > > screw the thru hull in from outside. the old ones pretty much came
            > > right out after the backing bolt was removed.
            > >
            > >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            >


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Jimmie White
            how about a chisel, hit it in the direction you want to turn the nutJimmie ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            Message 5 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
              how about a chisel, hit it in the direction you want to turn the nutJimmie

              On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 3:03 PM, Tim Minski <tminski@...> wrote:

              >
              >
              > had to take a mean little 4" grinder to mine. worked just fine.
              >
              > Tim
              >
              >
              > On Jul 7, 2009, at 3:28 PM, Eric Lesnick <emlesnick@...<emlesnick%40me.com>>
              > wrote:
              >
              > >
              > >
              > > Update on the thruhull. Can't get the backing nut off of one of them.
              > > I've tried everything I can think of. I've sprayed it with liquid
              > > wrench and even taken the torch to loosen up the backing nut. Any
              > > suggestions?
              > >
              > > Eric Lesnick
              > >
              > > On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:11 PM, neptune_24_001 <neptune_24_001@...<neptune_24_001%40yahoo.com>
              > >
              > > wrote:
              > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with
              > > > bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood that was
              > > > just the right fit to tighten the thru hull. you need two people to
              > > > get the old one out, but after you install the seacock you can just
              > > > screw the thru hull in from outside. the old ones pretty much came
              > > > right out after the backing bolt was removed.
              > > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              > >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              >
              >


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Tim Minski
              didn t work, not enough clearance to swing the various hammers hard enough to loosen. Tim ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              Message 6 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
                didn't work, not enough clearance to swing the various hammers hard
                enough to loosen.

                Tim

                On Jul 7, 2009, at 4:21 PM, Jimmie White <j24jaded@...> wrote:

                >
                >
                > how about a chisel, hit it in the direction you want to turn the
                > nutJimmie
                >
                > On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 3:03 PM, Tim Minski <tminski@...> wrote:
                >
                > >
                > >
                > > had to take a mean little 4" grinder to mine. worked just fine.
                > >
                > > Tim
                > >
                > >
                > > On Jul 7, 2009, at 3:28 PM, Eric Lesnick
                > <emlesnick@...<emlesnick%40me.com>>
                > > wrote:
                > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Update on the thruhull. Can't get the backing nut off of one of
                > them.
                > > > I've tried everything I can think of. I've sprayed it with liquid
                > > > wrench and even taken the torch to loosen up the backing nut. Any
                > > > suggestions?
                > > >
                > > > Eric Lesnick
                > > >
                > > > On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:11 PM, neptune_24_001
                > <neptune_24_001@...<neptune_24_001%40yahoo.com>
                > > >
                > > > wrote:
                > > >
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with
                > > > > bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood
                > that was
                > > > > just the right fit to tighten the thru hull. you need two
                > people to
                > > > > get the old one out, but after you install the seacock you can
                > just
                > > > > screw the thru hull in from outside. the old ones pretty much
                > came
                > > > > right out after the backing bolt was removed.
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > >
                > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > > >
                > > >
                > >
                > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >
                >


                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • lebeeby
                This link shows a great article on replacing through hulls. One of the best I ve seen. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls
                Message 7 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
                  This link shows a great article on replacing through hulls. One of the best I've seen.

                  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls
                • patrickgorey@sbcglobal.net
                  ... The threads are jammed with salt. Try to get a little back and forth movement of the nut, then add fresh water with a squirt bottle. An acytelyne torch
                  Message 8 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
                    --- In newportsailboats@yahoogroups.com, Tim Minski <tminski@...>

                    The threads are jammed with salt. Try to get a little back and forth movement of the nut, then add fresh water with a squirt bottle. An acytelyne torch will speed up the process, it is a two person job.



                    wrote:
                    >
                    > didn't work, not enough clearance to swing the various hammers hard
                    > enough to loosen.
                    >
                    > Tim
                    >
                    > On Jul 7, 2009, at 4:21 PM, Jimmie White <j24jaded@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > how about a chisel, hit it in the direction you want to turn the
                    > > nutJimmie
                    > >
                    > > On Tue, Jul 7, 2009 at 3:03 PM, Tim Minski <tminski@...> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > had to take a mean little 4" grinder to mine. worked just fine.
                    > > >
                    > > > Tim
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > On Jul 7, 2009, at 3:28 PM, Eric Lesnick
                    > > <emlesnick@...<emlesnick%40me.com>>
                    > > > wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Update on the thruhull. Can't get the backing nut off of one of
                    > > them.
                    > > > > I've tried everything I can think of. I've sprayed it with liquid
                    > > > > wrench and even taken the torch to loosen up the backing nut. Any
                    > > > > suggestions?
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Eric Lesnick
                    > > > >
                    > > > > On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:11 PM, neptune_24_001
                    > > <neptune_24_001@...<neptune_24_001%40yahoo.com>
                    > > > >
                    > > > > wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with
                    > > > > > bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood
                    > > that was
                    > > > > > just the right fit to tighten the thru hull. you need two
                    > > people to
                    > > > > > get the old one out, but after you install the seacock you can
                    > > just
                    > > > > > screw the thru hull in from outside. the old ones pretty much
                    > > came
                    > > > > > right out after the backing bolt was removed.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    > >
                    > >
                    >
                    >
                    > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    >
                  • Eric Lesnick
                    I ll try the torch again tomorrow and the water. Thanks for all the replies. I bought a step wrench from my local marine place, Lockwood (who are great for
                    Message 9 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
                      I'll try the torch again tomorrow and the water. Thanks for all the
                      replies. I bought a step wrench from my local marine place, Lockwood
                      (who are great for anyone in NJ, by the way) but the size is off. It
                      must be an older model of thru hull. I came back from work with a
                      piece of welded steel that I tapered on the grinder to try to help
                      "grip" the thruhull and a pipe to use as a breaker bar for leverage.
                      I'm worried about melting the nut onto the bolt with the torch. Is
                      this a legit concern with bronze fittings?

                      The battle resumes tomorrow......
                      On Jul 7, 2009, at 4:03 PM, Tim Minski wrote:

                      >
                      >
                      > had to take a mean little 4" grinder to mine. worked just fine.
                      >
                      > Tim
                      >
                      > On Jul 7, 2009, at 3:28 PM, Eric Lesnick <emlesnick@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Update on the thruhull. Can't get the backing nut off of one of
                      > them.
                      > > I've tried everything I can think of. I've sprayed it with liquid
                      > > wrench and even taken the torch to loosen up the backing nut. Any
                      > > suggestions?
                      > >
                      > > Eric Lesnick
                      > >
                      > > On Jul 1, 2009, at 8:11 PM, neptune_24_001
                      > <neptune_24_001@...>
                      > > wrote:
                      > >
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > I just replaced my thru hulls and old plastic gate valves with
                      > > > bronze seacock and thru hulls. I used a scrap piece of wood that
                      > was
                      > > > just the right fit to tighten the thru hull. you need two people
                      > to
                      > > > get the old one out, but after you install the seacock you can
                      > just
                      > > > screw the thru hull in from outside. the old ones pretty much came
                      > > > right out after the backing bolt was removed.
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > >
                      > >
                      >
                      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      >
                      >
                      >



                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • RAY TOSTADO
                      Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat to any part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years of UV wear to the glass
                      Message 10 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
                        Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat to any part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years of UV wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And bronze radiates heat very well.

                        Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut might pass specs.

                        Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force. Get a bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.

                        If the through hull is determined already to be history then just get a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the outside.

                        Please, no heat.

                        rt

















                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • Russ Wampler
                        I second that; was going to post exactly what Ray said. Just be careful and go slow; don t cut into the fiberglass around the thru-hull. Make several cuts if
                        Message 11 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
                          I second that; was going to post exactly what Ray said. Just be careful and go slow; don't cut into the fiberglass around the thru-hull. Make several cuts if two are not enough to knock the fitting away from the nut. An acetelyne torch is way over the top for heating a thru-hull you might start the backing plate on fire or worse the hull (and epoxy does not smother easily once it starts burning).



                          ________________________________
                          From: RAY TOSTADO <RAYTOSTADO@...>
                          To: newportsailboats@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2009 6:11:12 PM
                          Subject: Re: [Newport Sailboats] Thru hull removal





                          Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat to any part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years of UV wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And bronze radiates heat very well.

                          Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut might pass specs.

                          Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force. Get a bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.

                          If the through hull is determined already to be history then just get a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the outside.

                          Please, no heat.

                          rt

                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Mark L. Stephenson
                          I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look carefully. Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need to get the nut hot so it
                          Message 12 of 22 , Jul 7, 2009
                            I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look carefully.

                            Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need to get
                            the nut hot so it expands without getting the T-H hot so that it keeps
                            up. conversely, you could try cooling the thru-hull with ice or dry ice
                            (don't hammer on the plastic!!) and heat the nut judiciously.

                            I would start with a good soaking with liquid wrench (wiped off of
                            surrounding areas, and a lot of light tapping with a tack hammer or such.

                            a socket that actually fits the nut well and lets you get some torque on
                            it will be your best friend. I wouldn't worry about the thru-hull
                            turning until it does; you will want it broken loose anyway.

                            mark


                            RAY TOSTADO wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            > Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat to any
                            > part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years of UV
                            > wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And
                            > bronze radiates heat very well.
                            >
                            > Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut might
                            > pass specs.
                            >
                            > Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force. Get a
                            > bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.
                            >
                            > If the through hull is determined already to be history then just get
                            > a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the outside.
                            >
                            > Please, no heat.
                            >
                            > rt
                            >
                            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            >
                            >
                          • Eric Lesnick
                            The whole thru hull is free spinning. The plastic gate is off. It s the toilit discharge in the v berth for anyone familiar with the n27. Not much room to get
                            Message 13 of 22 , Jul 8, 2009
                              The whole thru hull is free spinning. The plastic gate is off. It's
                              the toilit discharge in the v berth for anyone familiar with the n27.
                              Not much room to get torque on the backing nut. Just to be clear when
                              u guys cut with the grinder did u cutfrom the outside? I'm thinking I
                              have to attack that nut on theback.

                              Eric Lesnick

                              On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:54 AM, "Mark L. Stephenson" <mlspe@...>
                              wrote:

                              >
                              >
                              > I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look carefully.
                              >
                              > Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need to get
                              > the nut hot so it expands without getting the T-H hot so that it keeps
                              > up. conversely, you could try cooling the thru-hull with ice or dry
                              > ice
                              > (don't hammer on the plastic!!) and heat the nut judiciously.
                              >
                              > I would start with a good soaking with liquid wrench (wiped off of
                              > surrounding areas, and a lot of light tapping with a tack hammer or
                              > such.
                              >
                              > a socket that actually fits the nut well and lets you get some
                              > torque on
                              > it will be your best friend. I wouldn't worry about the thru-hull
                              > turning until it does; you will want it broken loose anyway.
                              >
                              > mark
                              >
                              > RAY TOSTADO wrote:
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat to any
                              > > part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years of UV
                              > > wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And
                              > > bronze radiates heat very well.
                              > >
                              > > Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut might
                              > > pass specs.
                              > >
                              > > Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force.
                              > Get a
                              > > bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.
                              > >
                              > > If the through hull is determined already to be history then just
                              > get
                              > > a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the
                              > outside.
                              > >
                              > > Please, no heat.
                              > >
                              > > rt
                              > >
                              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              > >
                              > >
                              >


                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • kim stager
                              just a thought but you can take a drill and a 1/8 drill bit and drill holes in the nut from outer to iner as in allmost cutting a slot in it then cold chisel
                              Message 14 of 22 , Jul 8, 2009
                                just a thought but you can take a drill and a 1/8 " drill bit and drill holes in the nut from outer to iner as in allmost cutting a slot in it then cold chisel wam bam at the holes that will split the nut and off it comes an( old navy trick) works for all kinds of nuts motor bet keel bolt nuts anyway just a thought  Pappy

                                --- On Wed, 7/8/09, Eric Lesnick <emlesnick@...> wrote:


                                From: Eric Lesnick <emlesnick@...>
                                Subject: Re: [Newport Sailboats] Thru hull removal
                                To: "newportsailboats@yahoogroups.com" <newportsailboats@yahoogroups.com>
                                Date: Wednesday, July 8, 2009, 9:40 AM








                                The whole thru hull is free spinning. The plastic gate is off. It's
                                the toilit discharge in the v berth for anyone familiar with the n27.
                                Not much room to get torque on the backing nut. Just to be clear when
                                u guys cut with the grinder did u cutfrom the outside? I'm thinking I
                                have to attack that nut on theback.

                                Eric Lesnick

                                On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:54 AM, "Mark L. Stephenson" <mlspe@attglobal. net>
                                wrote:

                                >
                                >
                                > I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look carefully.
                                >
                                > Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need to get
                                > the nut hot so it expands without getting the T-H hot so that it keeps
                                > up. conversely, you could try cooling the thru-hull with ice or dry
                                > ice
                                > (don't hammer on the plastic!!) and heat the nut judiciously.
                                >
                                > I would start with a good soaking with liquid wrench (wiped off of
                                > surrounding areas, and a lot of light tapping with a tack hammer or
                                > such.
                                >
                                > a socket that actually fits the nut well and lets you get some
                                > torque on
                                > it will be your best friend. I wouldn't worry about the thru-hull
                                > turning until it does; you will want it broken loose anyway.
                                >
                                > mark
                                >
                                > RAY TOSTADO wrote:
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat to any
                                > > part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years of UV
                                > > wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And
                                > > bronze radiates heat very well.
                                > >
                                > > Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut might
                                > > pass specs.
                                > >
                                > > Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force.
                                > Get a
                                > > bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.
                                > >
                                > > If the through hull is determined already to be history then just
                                > get
                                > > a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the
                                > outside.
                                > >
                                > > Please, no heat.
                                > >
                                > > rt
                                > >
                                > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                > >
                                > >
                                >

                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                              • Stuart Reynolds
                                A Dremel drill with cutting wheel will zip through the nut in no time, but you may have access problems because of the through hull itself. A couple of
                                Message 15 of 22 , Jul 8, 2009
                                  A Dremel drill with cutting wheel will zip through the nut in no time,
                                  but you may have access problems because of the through hull itself. A
                                  couple of possibilities spring to mind. Dremel also sell a flexible
                                  extension that could be use to solve this. I've had my Dremel for 6
                                  months and I've already had a ton of uses for it. For stuck nuts and
                                  bolts and taking off the pointy end of screws drilled through panels,
                                  its a godsend.
                                  For the areas that the cutting wheel might not be able to reach (e.g.
                                  where the nut meets the through hull) you might be able to drill that
                                  out with a large metal drill and then expand the hole with the cutting
                                  wheel, or split the area you've cut with a chisel.

                                  Is cutting into the fiberglass a big issue? (I'm talking nicks with
                                  cutting tools and whatnot). Seems like it would be easy to fill these
                                  with epoxy and filler. Given the hassles and time spent removing the
                                  through hull, are there serious consequences to damaging the hull,
                                  inside or out?

                                  - Stu

                                  On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 6:40 AM, Eric Lesnick<emlesnick@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > The whole thru hull is free spinning. The plastic gate is off. It's
                                  > the toilit discharge in the v berth for anyone familiar with the n27.
                                  > Not much room to get torque on the backing nut. Just to be clear when
                                  > u guys cut with the grinder did u cutfrom the outside? I'm thinking I
                                  > have to attack that nut on theback.
                                  >
                                  > Eric Lesnick
                                  >
                                  > On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:54 AM, "Mark L. Stephenson" <mlspe@...>
                                  > wrote:
                                  >
                                  >>
                                  >>
                                  >> I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look carefully.
                                  >>
                                  >> Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need to get
                                  >> the nut hot so it expands without getting the T-H hot so that it keeps
                                  >> up. conversely, you could try cooling the thru-hull with ice or dry
                                  >> ice
                                  >> (don't hammer on the plastic!!) and heat the nut judiciously.
                                  >>
                                  >> I would start with a good soaking with liquid wrench (wiped off of
                                  >> surrounding areas, and a lot of light tapping with a tack hammer or
                                  >> such.
                                  >>
                                  >> a socket that actually fits the nut well and lets you get some
                                  >> torque on
                                  >> it will be your best friend. I wouldn't worry about the thru-hull
                                  >> turning until it does; you will want it broken loose anyway.
                                  >>
                                  >> mark
                                  >>
                                  >> RAY TOSTADO wrote:
                                  >> >
                                  >> >
                                  >> > Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat to any
                                  >> > part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years of UV
                                  >> > wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And
                                  >> > bronze radiates heat very well.
                                  >> >
                                  >> > Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut might
                                  >> > pass specs.
                                  >> >
                                  >> > Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force.
                                  >> Get a
                                  >> > bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.
                                  >> >
                                  >> > If the through hull is determined already to be history then just
                                  >> get
                                  >> > a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the
                                  >> outside.
                                  >> >
                                  >> > Please, no heat.
                                  >> >
                                  >> > rt
                                  >> >
                                  >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                  >> >
                                  >> >
                                  >>
                                  >
                                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                  >
                                  >
                                • Eric Lesnick
                                  Praise be I got ot off!!! Thanks to all for the suggestions. I was a able to get it with the pice of steel tapered to fit into the opening and a pipe wrench
                                  Message 16 of 22 , Jul 8, 2009
                                    Praise be I got ot off!!! Thanks to all for the suggestions. I was a
                                    able to get it with the pice of steel tapered to fit into the opening
                                    and a pipe wrench with a BIG breaker bar finally broke it free. Didn't
                                    have to cut it and all the others came out without a problem.
                                    Thanks again. Now it's time to install

                                    Eric Lesnick

                                    On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:46 PM, Stuart Reynolds
                                    <newport@...> wrote:

                                    >
                                    >
                                    > A Dremel drill with cutting wheel will zip through the nut in no time,
                                    > but you may have access problems because of the through hull itself. A
                                    > couple of possibilities spring to mind. Dremel also sell a flexible
                                    > extension that could be use to solve this. I've had my Dremel for 6
                                    > months and I've already had a ton of uses for it. For stuck nuts and
                                    > bolts and taking off the pointy end of screws drilled through panels,
                                    > its a godsend.
                                    > For the areas that the cutting wheel might not be able to reach (e.g.
                                    > where the nut meets the through hull) you might be able to drill that
                                    > out with a large metal drill and then expand the hole with the cutting
                                    > wheel, or split the area you've cut with a chisel.
                                    >
                                    > Is cutting into the fiberglass a big issue? (I'm talking nicks with
                                    > cutting tools and whatnot). Seems like it would be easy to fill these
                                    > with epoxy and filler. Given the hassles and time spent removing the
                                    > through hull, are there serious consequences to damaging the hull,
                                    > inside or out?
                                    >
                                    > - Stu
                                    >
                                    > On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 6:40 AM, Eric Lesnick<emlesnick@...> wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > The whole thru hull is free spinning. The plastic gate is off. It's
                                    > > the toilit discharge in the v berth for anyone familiar with the
                                    > n27.
                                    > > Not much room to get torque on the backing nut. Just to be clear
                                    > when
                                    > > u guys cut with the grinder did u cutfrom the outside? I'm
                                    > thinking I
                                    > > have to attack that nut on theback.
                                    > >
                                    > > Eric Lesnick
                                    > >
                                    > > On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:54 AM, "Mark L. Stephenson" <mlspe@...
                                    > >
                                    > > wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > >>
                                    > >>
                                    > >> I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look
                                    > carefully.
                                    > >>
                                    > >> Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need to
                                    > get
                                    > >> the nut hot so it expands without getting the T-H hot so that it
                                    > keeps
                                    > >> up. conversely, you could try cooling the thru-hull with ice or dry
                                    > >> ice
                                    > >> (don't hammer on the plastic!!) and heat the nut judiciously.
                                    > >>
                                    > >> I would start with a good soaking with liquid wrench (wiped off of
                                    > >> surrounding areas, and a lot of light tapping with a tack hammer or
                                    > >> such.
                                    > >>
                                    > >> a socket that actually fits the nut well and lets you get some
                                    > >> torque on
                                    > >> it will be your best friend. I wouldn't worry about the thru-hull
                                    > >> turning until it does; you will want it broken loose anyway.
                                    > >>
                                    > >> mark
                                    > >>
                                    > >> RAY TOSTADO wrote:
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> > Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat
                                    > to any
                                    > >> > part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years
                                    > of UV
                                    > >> > wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And
                                    > >> > bronze radiates heat very well.
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> > Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut
                                    > might
                                    > >> > pass specs.
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> > Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force.
                                    > >> Get a
                                    > >> > bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> > If the through hull is determined already to be history then just
                                    > >> get
                                    > >> > a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the
                                    > >> outside.
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> > Please, no heat.
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> > rt
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    > >> >
                                    > >> >
                                    > >>
                                    > >
                                    > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    >


                                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                  • Mark L. Stephenson
                                    I would coat inside the hole with epoxy before installing the new thru-hull (insure adequate clearance for the epoxy thickness, first) to prevent moisture
                                    Message 17 of 22 , Jul 8, 2009
                                      I would coat inside the hole with epoxy before installing the new
                                      thru-hull (insure adequate clearance for the epoxy thickness, first) to
                                      prevent moisture wicking along glass fibers. After the epoxy is cured,
                                      bed and fit thru-hull. If the bedding on the old one had broken down,
                                      you might want to allow some drying time and do a little gentle heating
                                      of the hull around the hole.

                                      mark


                                      Eric Lesnick wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > Praise be I got ot off!!! Thanks to all for the suggestions. I was a
                                      > able to get it with the pice of steel tapered to fit into the opening
                                      > and a pipe wrench with a BIG breaker bar finally broke it free. Didn't
                                      > have to cut it and all the others came out without a problem.
                                      > Thanks again. Now it's time to install
                                      >
                                      > Eric Lesnick
                                      >
                                      > On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:46 PM, Stuart Reynolds
                                      > <newport@... <mailto:newport%40stuartreynolds.net>> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > A Dremel drill with cutting wheel will zip through the nut in no time,
                                      > > but you may have access problems because of the through hull itself. A
                                      > > couple of possibilities spring to mind. Dremel also sell a flexible
                                      > > extension that could be use to solve this. I've had my Dremel for 6
                                      > > months and I've already had a ton of uses for it. For stuck nuts and
                                      > > bolts and taking off the pointy end of screws drilled through panels,
                                      > > its a godsend.
                                      > > For the areas that the cutting wheel might not be able to reach (e.g.
                                      > > where the nut meets the through hull) you might be able to drill that
                                      > > out with a large metal drill and then expand the hole with the cutting
                                      > > wheel, or split the area you've cut with a chisel.
                                      > >
                                      > > Is cutting into the fiberglass a big issue? (I'm talking nicks with
                                      > > cutting tools and whatnot). Seems like it would be easy to fill these
                                      > > with epoxy and filler. Given the hassles and time spent removing the
                                      > > through hull, are there serious consequences to damaging the hull,
                                      > > inside or out?
                                      > >
                                      > > - Stu
                                      > >
                                      > > On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 6:40 AM, Eric Lesnick<emlesnick@...
                                      > <mailto:emlesnick%40me.com>> wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > > > The whole thru hull is free spinning. The plastic gate is off. It's
                                      > > > the toilit discharge in the v berth for anyone familiar with the
                                      > > n27.
                                      > > > Not much room to get torque on the backing nut. Just to be clear
                                      > > when
                                      > > > u guys cut with the grinder did u cutfrom the outside? I'm
                                      > > thinking I
                                      > > > have to attack that nut on theback.
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Eric Lesnick
                                      > > >
                                      > > > On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:54 AM, "Mark L. Stephenson"
                                      > <mlspe@... <mailto:mlspe%40attglobal.net>
                                      > > >
                                      > > > wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >> I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look
                                      > > carefully.
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >> Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need to
                                      > > get
                                      > > >> the nut hot so it expands without getting the T-H hot so that it
                                      > > keeps
                                      > > >> up. conversely, you could try cooling the thru-hull with ice or dry
                                      > > >> ice
                                      > > >> (don't hammer on the plastic!!) and heat the nut judiciously.
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >> I would start with a good soaking with liquid wrench (wiped off of
                                      > > >> surrounding areas, and a lot of light tapping with a tack hammer or
                                      > > >> such.
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >> a socket that actually fits the nut well and lets you get some
                                      > > >> torque on
                                      > > >> it will be your best friend. I wouldn't worry about the thru-hull
                                      > > >> turning until it does; you will want it broken loose anyway.
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >> mark
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >> RAY TOSTADO wrote:
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> > Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat
                                      > > to any
                                      > > >> > part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years
                                      > > of UV
                                      > > >> > wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be doing. And
                                      > > >> > bronze radiates heat very well.
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> > Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut
                                      > > might
                                      > > >> > pass specs.
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> > Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical force.
                                      > > >> Get a
                                      > > >> > bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you need.
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> > If the through hull is determined already to be history then just
                                      > > >> get
                                      > > >> > a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the
                                      > > >> outside.
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> > Please, no heat.
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> > rt
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >> >
                                      > > >>
                                      > > >
                                      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > >
                                      >
                                      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      >
                                      >
                                    • Eric Lesnick
                                      Right now the recess where the th was had some moldy looking gunk and under that some smooth white layer that was partially cracked. Under that I can see the
                                      Message 18 of 22 , Jul 9, 2009
                                        Right now the recess where the th was had some moldy looking gunk and
                                        under that some smooth white layer that was partially cracked. Under
                                        that I can see the bare fiberglass. Is that white layer the old
                                        bedding compound? It is cracked in some spots but does not want to
                                        come out in others. I rubbed with acetone and scrapped with a grout
                                        tool. Does/should all of the while layer have to come off before
                                        rebedding? Should I add a little heat with a hairdryer? Thanks. Can I
                                        include a picure attatchment to the group email?

                                        Eric Lesnick

                                        On Jul 9, 2009, at 12:44 AM, "Mark L. Stephenson"
                                        <mlspe@...> wrote:

                                        >
                                        >
                                        > I would coat inside the hole with epoxy before installing the new
                                        > thru-hull (insure adequate clearance for the epoxy thickness, first)
                                        > to
                                        > prevent moisture wicking along glass fibers. After the epoxy is cured,
                                        > bed and fit thru-hull. If the bedding on the old one had broken down,
                                        > you might want to allow some drying time and do a little gentle
                                        > heating
                                        > of the hull around the hole.
                                        >
                                        > mark
                                        >
                                        > Eric Lesnick wrote:
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > Praise be I got ot off!!! Thanks to all for the suggestions. I was a
                                        > > able to get it with the pice of steel tapered to fit into the
                                        > opening
                                        > > and a pipe wrench with a BIG breaker bar finally broke it free.
                                        > Didn't
                                        > > have to cut it and all the others came out without a problem.
                                        > > Thanks again. Now it's time to install
                                        > >
                                        > > Eric Lesnick
                                        > >
                                        > > On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:46 PM, Stuart Reynolds
                                        > > <newport@... <mailto:newport%40stuartreynolds.net>>
                                        > wrote:
                                        > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > > > A Dremel drill with cutting wheel will zip through the nut in no
                                        > time,
                                        > > > but you may have access problems because of the through hull
                                        > itself. A
                                        > > > couple of possibilities spring to mind. Dremel also sell a
                                        > flexible
                                        > > > extension that could be use to solve this. I've had my Dremel
                                        > for 6
                                        > > > months and I've already had a ton of uses for it. For stuck nuts
                                        > and
                                        > > > bolts and taking off the pointy end of screws drilled through
                                        > panels,
                                        > > > its a godsend.
                                        > > > For the areas that the cutting wheel might not be able to reach
                                        > (e.g.
                                        > > > where the nut meets the through hull) you might be able to drill
                                        > that
                                        > > > out with a large metal drill and then expand the hole with the
                                        > cutting
                                        > > > wheel, or split the area you've cut with a chisel.
                                        > > >
                                        > > > Is cutting into the fiberglass a big issue? (I'm talking nicks
                                        > with
                                        > > > cutting tools and whatnot). Seems like it would be easy to fill
                                        > these
                                        > > > with epoxy and filler. Given the hassles and time spent removing
                                        > the
                                        > > > through hull, are there serious consequences to damaging the hull,
                                        > > > inside or out?
                                        > > >
                                        > > > - Stu
                                        > > >
                                        > > > On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 6:40 AM, Eric Lesnick<emlesnick@...
                                        > > <mailto:emlesnick%40me.com>> wrote:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > The whole thru hull is free spinning. The plastic gate is off.
                                        > It's
                                        > > > > the toilit discharge in the v berth for anyone familiar with the
                                        > > > n27.
                                        > > > > Not much room to get torque on the backing nut. Just to be clear
                                        > > > when
                                        > > > > u guys cut with the grinder did u cutfrom the outside? I'm
                                        > > > thinking I
                                        > > > > have to attack that nut on theback.
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > Eric Lesnick
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > On Jul 8, 2009, at 1:54 AM, "Mark L. Stephenson"
                                        > > <mlspe@... <mailto:mlspe%40attglobal.net>
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > wrote:
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >> I recently installed a thru-hull nut with a set screw; look
                                        > > > carefully.
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >> Ray is right about the heat. For it to be effective, you need
                                        > to
                                        > > > get
                                        > > > >> the nut hot so it expands without getting the T-H hot so that
                                        > it
                                        > > > keeps
                                        > > > >> up. conversely, you could try cooling the thru-hull with ice
                                        > or dry
                                        > > > >> ice
                                        > > > >> (don't hammer on the plastic!!) and heat the nut judiciously.
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >> I would start with a good soaking with liquid wrench (wiped
                                        > off of
                                        > > > >> surrounding areas, and a lot of light tapping with a tack
                                        > hammer or
                                        > > > >> such.
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >> a socket that actually fits the nut well and lets you get some
                                        > > > >> torque on
                                        > > > >> it will be your best friend. I wouldn't worry about the thru-
                                        > hull
                                        > > > >> turning until it does; you will want it broken loose anyway.
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >> mark
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >> RAY TOSTADO wrote:
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> > Folks, sorry to put a damper on this heat thing. Appling heat
                                        > > > to any
                                        > > > >> > part of a 30 year old fiberglass hull is like adding 50 years
                                        > > > of UV
                                        > > > >> > wear to the glass matrix. Not something you should be
                                        > doing. And
                                        > > > >> > bronze radiates heat very well.
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> > Only by packing the port with ice cubes while heating the nut
                                        > > > might
                                        > > > >> > pass specs.
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> > Getting the nut free is all about geometry and mechanical
                                        > force.
                                        > > > >> Get a
                                        > > > >> > bigger hammer and a longer spanner bar. Torque is what you
                                        > need.
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> > If the through hull is determined already to be history
                                        > then just
                                        > > > >> get
                                        > > > >> > a sawzall with a 14" blade and cut the thing in half from the
                                        > > > >> outside.
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> > Please, no heat.
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> > rt
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >> >
                                        > > > >>
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        > > > >
                                        > > > >
                                        > > >
                                        > >
                                        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        >


                                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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