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Re: Using Corn.. I Appreciate it Gents.

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  • nanosleep
    This is almost identical to my procedure except I don t add sugar and I ferment and distill on the grain. I ve had a few failed batches when I used only
    Message 1 of 9 , Oct 2, 2003
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      This is almost identical to my procedure except I don't add sugar and
      I ferment and distill on the grain.
      I've had a few failed batches when I used only amalyse powdered
      enzymes from the local homebrew store. I don't know whether the
      amalyse powder wasn't a proper mixture of the different types of
      enzymes, or if it was just dead. I don't think many people buy the
      powdered enzymes so who knows how long it has been sitting on the
      shelf. I have had good luck when using malted barley for the enzyme
      action.
      I usually cook my corn longer than 1 hour (at almost boiling). I've
      used both cracked corn and fine meal. The meal takes less cooking and
      has better yield, but you can't strain it and you must ferment and
      distill on the grain. My boiler has electric elements and I haven't
      (as of yet) had any problems scorching a corn wash. I use extra water
      to help prevent this.

      The only trouble I've had with scorching is with a pears. I ran some
      pears through the sausage grinder and then fermented and distilled. I
      think the wash was thick enough that it wasn't 'self stirring' when
      heated, and the pear flesh seemed to be acting as an insulator. A bad
      combination.



      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
      <flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
      > I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me
      add
      > my two cents in here.
      >
      > I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from
      the
      > brew shop) in the follwing ratio:
      >
      > 8 lbs corn
      > 3 lbs barley
      > 3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)
      >
      > You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out - I
      > boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans. Then you bring the temp
      > down to 150F and add the barley. Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
      > (this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the liquid
      > off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
      > fermentor. You can also brew on the grains and drain before
      > distilling.
      >
      > I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
      > molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast (Red
      > Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk
      fermentation,
      > I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.
      >
      > Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak. The stuff
      I
      > put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.
      >
      > Hope this helps. I am in the process of brewing up some scotch
      using
      > all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row. I can't wait
      to
      > see how this turns out after oaking.
      >
      > flaming_pinto
      >
      >
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
      > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
      > >
      > > All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant
      info.
      > I
      > > don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying
      something
      > > diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
      > >
      > > Frank
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
      > > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
      > > > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
      > letting
      > > > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
      > comes
      > > > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
      > > for.
      > > > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
      > > Thanks
      > > >
      > > > Frank
    • flaming_pinto
      Thanks to Wal s recent post on the subject, I discovered why my mashing process sometimes results in lower-than-expected yeilds for me. Even though the starch
      Message 2 of 9 , Oct 3, 2003
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        Thanks to Wal's recent post on the subject, I discovered why my
        mashing process sometimes results in lower-than-expected yeilds for
        me.

        Even though the starch conversion happens for the most part around
        150-155F, the mash needs to be held at(or at least pass-through) the
        95-105F range in order to really break down the gummy structures of
        the starch so that the enzymes can crack them. For my last batch, I
        didn't add the grains until 140F and the result was a ppg yeild of
        only .022 instead of the expected .031 that I got with the previous
        batch (which I added the grains at around 60F and heated slowly).

        So to maximize your grain yeilds, always add the grains to cool water
        and let them warm to 150F slowly. The article I read suggested that
        holding the mash at 100F for 20 minutes will usually result in
        several points improvement in the yeild. With the small batches we
        are working with, every point counts.

        Flaming_pinto


        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
        wrote:
        > This is almost identical to my procedure except I don't add sugar
        and
        > I ferment and distill on the grain.
        > I've had a few failed batches when I used only amalyse powdered
        > enzymes from the local homebrew store. I don't know whether the
        > amalyse powder wasn't a proper mixture of the different types of
        > enzymes, or if it was just dead. I don't think many people buy the
        > powdered enzymes so who knows how long it has been sitting on the
        > shelf. I have had good luck when using malted barley for the enzyme
        > action.
        > I usually cook my corn longer than 1 hour (at almost boiling). I've
        > used both cracked corn and fine meal. The meal takes less cooking
        and
        > has better yield, but you can't strain it and you must ferment and
        > distill on the grain. My boiler has electric elements and I haven't
        > (as of yet) had any problems scorching a corn wash. I use extra
        water
        > to help prevent this.
        >
        > The only trouble I've had with scorching is with a pears. I ran
        some
        > pears through the sausage grinder and then fermented and
        distilled. I
        > think the wash was thick enough that it wasn't 'self stirring' when
        > heated, and the pear flesh seemed to be acting as an insulator. A
        bad
        > combination.
        >
        >
        >
        > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
        > <flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
        > > I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me
        > add
        > > my two cents in here.
        > >
        > > I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from
        > the
        > > brew shop) in the follwing ratio:
        > >
        > > 8 lbs corn
        > > 3 lbs barley
        > > 3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)
        > >
        > > You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out -
        I
        > > boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans. Then you bring the temp
        > > down to 150F and add the barley. Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
        > > (this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the
        liquid
        > > off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
        > > fermentor. You can also brew on the grains and drain before
        > > distilling.
        > >
        > > I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
        > > molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast
        (Red
        > > Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk
        > fermentation,
        > > I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.
        > >
        > > Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak. The stuff
        > I
        > > put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.
        > >
        > > Hope this helps. I am in the process of brewing up some scotch
        > using
        > > all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row. I can't wait
        > to
        > > see how this turns out after oaking.
        > >
        > > flaming_pinto
        > >
        > >
        > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
        > > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant
        > info.
        > > I
        > > > don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying
        > something
        > > > diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
        > > >
        > > > Frank
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
        > > > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
        > > > > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
        > > letting
        > > > > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
        > > comes
        > > > > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to
        look
        > > > for.
        > > > > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-
        Hybird?
        > > > Thanks
        > > > >
        > > > > Frank
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