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Re: Using Corn

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  • corn_wash
    that is 6-7 lbs sugar per 10 lbs. corn ... starch ... sugars ... The ... than ... a ... writing ... it s ... 15 ... Sounds ... whatever ... work
    Message 1 of 9 , Oct 2, 2003
      that is 6-7 lbs sugar per 10 lbs. corn

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "corn_wash" <corn_wash@y...>
      wrote:
      > all the info. i have found states corn has 60-70% convertable
      starch
      > whitch is equal to about 6-7 pounds
      > of sugar that is convertable to alc. amylase will get all ths
      sugars
      > out ....................
      >
      >
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ludwig Kirsch"
      > <cannonfire54@l...> wrote:
      > > If I may throw in my two cents. As I understand it malted corn
      > would not have enough enzyme to convert all of the starch present.
      > You would need to add malted barley to get a good conversion. All
      > corn has starch and produce about the same % alcohol per bushel.
      The
      > seed companies are now beginning to breed high starch corn for the
      > fuel alcohol plants. The % gain in alcohol is like 3% more than
      > regular corn. They are new and as yet not available
      > >
      > > Try malting your own barley. All you need is a refrigerator top,
      > oven and a few cooky sheets. Use the malt green and you don't even
      > need the oven. It is fairly easy and I have found a lot cheaper
      than
      > buying pre-malted. I prefer the taste and I think the enzyme % is
      > stronger. Selection is limited by location. I get mine from local
      > farmers. Farmer will sell for pennies per pound or like $1.50 (US)
      a
      > bushel. That's 3 cents a pound for 48 lbs or 22 Kg per bushel for
      > barley. And think they have a heck of a good deal
      > >
      > > I malted some corn once and made beer. I deeply regret not
      writing
      > down the recipe because it was some of the best beer I ever made.
      > >
      > > Ludwig
      > > --
      > >
      > > --------- Original Message ---------
      > >
      > > DATE: Thu, 02 Oct 2003 06:08:54
      > > From: "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
      > > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
      > > Cc:
      > >
      > > >You might first try a batch using malted barley from your local
      > > >homebrew store. This has all the enzymes you'll need to convert
      > the
      > > >starch in your corn to sugar. 6-row barley has more enzymes
      > (someone
      > > >correct me if I'm wrong here. I never can clearly remember if
      it's
      > > >2-row or 6-row). The malted barley will make up something like
      15
      > to
      > > >20% of your grains. I've never tried malting my own corn.
      Sounds
      > > >like a lot of trouble.
      > > >I think ALL types of corn contain starch, and therefore can be
      > used to
      > > >make alcohol. I think the reason for picking non-hybrid type is
      > for
      > > >better flavor. Some of the hybrids may actually have better
      > alcohol
      > > >yield (more of the weight is in starch rather than husk or
      whatever
      > > >else). I use an old breed called "yellow dent". It has a good
      > flavor
      > > >when eaten as corn-on-the-cob. It also makes very good meal and
      > > >cornbread.
      > > >
      > > >If you malt your own corn, you probably won't be able to have it
      > > >milled. It will be too wet and will bog the mill. The best bet
      > here
      > > >is to use one of those hand powered sausage grinders that clamps
      > onto
      > > >your countertop. I've used one to crack dry corn. It should
      work
      > > >even better on the softer wet corn.
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
      > > ><headcavedin@y...> wrote:
      > > >> Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
      > letting
      > > >> it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
      > comes
      > > >> from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
      > > >for.
      > > >> Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
      > > >Thanks
      > > >>
      > > >> Frank
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
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      > > >
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    • headcavedin
      All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant info. I don t mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying something diffrent, ya know?
      Message 2 of 9 , Oct 2, 2003
        All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant info. I
        don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying something
        diffrent, ya know? Thanks again

        Frank



        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
        <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
        > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about letting
        > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes comes
        > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
        for.
        > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
        Thanks
        >
        > Frank
      • flaming_pinto
        I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me add my two cents in here. I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from
        Message 3 of 9 , Oct 2, 2003
          I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me add
          my two cents in here.

          I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from the
          brew shop) in the follwing ratio:

          8 lbs corn
          3 lbs barley
          3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)

          You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out - I
          boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans. Then you bring the temp
          down to 150F and add the barley. Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
          (this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the liquid
          off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
          fermentor. You can also brew on the grains and drain before
          distilling.

          I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
          molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast (Red
          Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk fermentation,
          I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.

          Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak. The stuff I
          put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.

          Hope this helps. I am in the process of brewing up some scotch using
          all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row. I can't wait to
          see how this turns out after oaking.

          flaming_pinto


          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
          <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
          >
          > All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant info.
          I
          > don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying something
          > diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
          >
          > Frank
          >
          >
          >
          > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
          > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
          > > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
          letting
          > > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
          comes
          > > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
          > for.
          > > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
          > Thanks
          > >
          > > Frank
        • nanosleep
          This is almost identical to my procedure except I don t add sugar and I ferment and distill on the grain. I ve had a few failed batches when I used only
          Message 4 of 9 , Oct 2, 2003
            This is almost identical to my procedure except I don't add sugar and
            I ferment and distill on the grain.
            I've had a few failed batches when I used only amalyse powdered
            enzymes from the local homebrew store. I don't know whether the
            amalyse powder wasn't a proper mixture of the different types of
            enzymes, or if it was just dead. I don't think many people buy the
            powdered enzymes so who knows how long it has been sitting on the
            shelf. I have had good luck when using malted barley for the enzyme
            action.
            I usually cook my corn longer than 1 hour (at almost boiling). I've
            used both cracked corn and fine meal. The meal takes less cooking and
            has better yield, but you can't strain it and you must ferment and
            distill on the grain. My boiler has electric elements and I haven't
            (as of yet) had any problems scorching a corn wash. I use extra water
            to help prevent this.

            The only trouble I've had with scorching is with a pears. I ran some
            pears through the sausage grinder and then fermented and distilled. I
            think the wash was thick enough that it wasn't 'self stirring' when
            heated, and the pear flesh seemed to be acting as an insulator. A bad
            combination.



            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
            <flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
            > I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me
            add
            > my two cents in here.
            >
            > I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from
            the
            > brew shop) in the follwing ratio:
            >
            > 8 lbs corn
            > 3 lbs barley
            > 3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)
            >
            > You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out - I
            > boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans. Then you bring the temp
            > down to 150F and add the barley. Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
            > (this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the liquid
            > off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
            > fermentor. You can also brew on the grains and drain before
            > distilling.
            >
            > I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
            > molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast (Red
            > Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk
            fermentation,
            > I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.
            >
            > Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak. The stuff
            I
            > put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.
            >
            > Hope this helps. I am in the process of brewing up some scotch
            using
            > all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row. I can't wait
            to
            > see how this turns out after oaking.
            >
            > flaming_pinto
            >
            >
            > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
            > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
            > >
            > > All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant
            info.
            > I
            > > don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying
            something
            > > diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
            > >
            > > Frank
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
            > > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
            > > > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
            > letting
            > > > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
            > comes
            > > > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to look
            > > for.
            > > > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-Hybird?
            > > Thanks
            > > >
            > > > Frank
          • flaming_pinto
            Thanks to Wal s recent post on the subject, I discovered why my mashing process sometimes results in lower-than-expected yeilds for me. Even though the starch
            Message 5 of 9 , Oct 3, 2003
              Thanks to Wal's recent post on the subject, I discovered why my
              mashing process sometimes results in lower-than-expected yeilds for
              me.

              Even though the starch conversion happens for the most part around
              150-155F, the mash needs to be held at(or at least pass-through) the
              95-105F range in order to really break down the gummy structures of
              the starch so that the enzymes can crack them. For my last batch, I
              didn't add the grains until 140F and the result was a ppg yeild of
              only .022 instead of the expected .031 that I got with the previous
              batch (which I added the grains at around 60F and heated slowly).

              So to maximize your grain yeilds, always add the grains to cool water
              and let them warm to 150F slowly. The article I read suggested that
              holding the mash at 100F for 20 minutes will usually result in
              several points improvement in the yeild. With the small batches we
              are working with, every point counts.

              Flaming_pinto


              --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
              wrote:
              > This is almost identical to my procedure except I don't add sugar
              and
              > I ferment and distill on the grain.
              > I've had a few failed batches when I used only amalyse powdered
              > enzymes from the local homebrew store. I don't know whether the
              > amalyse powder wasn't a proper mixture of the different types of
              > enzymes, or if it was just dead. I don't think many people buy the
              > powdered enzymes so who knows how long it has been sitting on the
              > shelf. I have had good luck when using malted barley for the enzyme
              > action.
              > I usually cook my corn longer than 1 hour (at almost boiling). I've
              > used both cracked corn and fine meal. The meal takes less cooking
              and
              > has better yield, but you can't strain it and you must ferment and
              > distill on the grain. My boiler has electric elements and I haven't
              > (as of yet) had any problems scorching a corn wash. I use extra
              water
              > to help prevent this.
              >
              > The only trouble I've had with scorching is with a pears. I ran
              some
              > pears through the sausage grinder and then fermented and
              distilled. I
              > think the wash was thick enough that it wasn't 'self stirring' when
              > heated, and the pear flesh seemed to be acting as an insulator. A
              bad
              > combination.
              >
              >
              >
              > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "flaming_pinto"
              > <flaming_pinto@y...> wrote:
              > > I just finished a corn wash which turned out VERY nice, so let me
              > add
              > > my two cents in here.
              > >
              > > I used cracked, unmalted feed corn and malted 6-row barley (from
              > the
              > > brew shop) in the follwing ratio:
              > >
              > > 8 lbs corn
              > > 3 lbs barley
              > > 3 lbs corn-sugar (to boost alc. percentage)
              > >
              > > You have to boil the hell out of the corn to get the starch out -
              I
              > > boiled for an hour in two 20-quart pans. Then you bring the temp
              > > down to 150F and add the barley. Hold at 150-155F for an hour -
              > > (this is when the corn gets converted to sugars). Drain the
              liquid
              > > off the grains and make up to 5 or 6 gallons, depending on your
              > > fermentor. You can also brew on the grains and drain before
              > > distilling.
              > >
              > > I then reduced the temp to 85F, added the corn-sugar, 24oz of
              > > molasses for nutrients, and pitched a good quality grain yeast
              (Red
              > > Star brand "Distiller's" yeast). After 3 days of brisk
              > fermentation,
              > > I distilled a gallon of excellent young whiskey @ 40%.
              > >
              > > Some of it we drank as-is, and some of it I put on oak. The stuff
              > I
              > > put on oak rivals the best commercial whiskeys I have had.
              > >
              > > Hope this helps. I am in the process of brewing up some scotch
              > using
              > > all matled barley (10 pounds 2-row, 5 pounds 6-row. I can't wait
              > to
              > > see how this turns out after oaking.
              > >
              > > flaming_pinto
              > >
              > >
              > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
              > > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > All this Good info. I surly do Appreciate to Guys. Excellant
              > info.
              > > I
              > > > don't mind the extra work if just for the sake of trying
              > something
              > > > diffrent, ya know? Thanks again
              > > >
              > > > Frank
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "headcavedin"
              > > > <headcavedin@y...> wrote:
              > > > > Hey! I want to do a Corn wash. I understand how to go about
              > > letting
              > > > > it sprout and then to grind. The sprout is where the enzymes
              > > comes
              > > > > from, correct? What I need to know is what type of corn to
              look
              > > > for.
              > > > > Do I understand correctly That I need to look for a Non-
              Hybird?
              > > > Thanks
              > > > >
              > > > > Frank
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