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Re: heating

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  • cletemeaders
    Temperature is exactly what you want. The mechanics of how it gets done is what your -describing. Im a beginner now, take it easy on me! clete Temperature
    Message 1 of 15 , Jul 9, 2003
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      Temperature is exactly what you want. The mechanics of how it gets
      done is what your'-describing. Im a beginner now, take it easy on
      me! clete


      Temperature control isn't really what you want. What
      > you want is *power* control. Temperature control will
      > inherently be varying the power as needed to maintain
      > the set temperature. Power flucuations are exactly
      > what you DON'T want. I use two 1500watt water heater
      > elements. These are cheap and waste minimal heat.
      > There's the pain of mounting these in your boiler,
      > but if you use a proper screw fitting you only have
      > to do this once. I plug in both elements when
      > warming up, but only one when running. My 2 inch
      > packed column can handle 1500watts with no problems.
      > I have a power controller, unfortunately it has only
      > three settings: 0, 1500, and 3000 watts. :)
      >
      > There's not much point in running the column with less
      > power than it can handle (takes too long to do a run).
      > The best thing about a power controller is that you can
      > make adjustments and find the power limit for your
      > setup. With all the experience of people on this forum
      > and the wonderful information on homedistiller.org
      > you should be able to make a very good guess at the
      > power that your column should be able to handle before
      > you ever do a run. You can then find an element or
      > combination of elements which is close to but does not
      > exceed this limit.
      >
      > Before I get a talked down to by those who run temperature
      > controllers, I'm not claiming that they can't work.
      > I'm just claiming there are pitfalls to avoid with them.
      > Controllers which cycle the element on/off at a fairly
      > fast rate are effectivly operating as a power controller.
      > (very desirable)
      >
      >
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders"
      <spacejug@a...>
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is
      gonna
      > > be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete
      > >
      > >
      > > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
      > > haven't
      > > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
      > worried
      > > about
      > > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient
      than
      > > a hot
      > > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
      > > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
      > > apparatus in
      > > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
      > the
      > > criminal
      > > > code?
      > > >
      > > > Sue
      >
      >
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      >
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      >
      >
      >
      >
      > I can be wrong I must say
      > Cheers, Alex...
      > A
      >
      >
      > ---------------------------------
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    • peter_vcb
      i have an old hob and it at different power settings (1-5) it switches to different connections on the one hotplate, therefore giving 5 continous power outputs
      Message 2 of 15 , Jul 10, 2003
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        i have an old hob and it at different power settings (1-5) it
        switches to different connections on the one hotplate, therefore
        giving 5 continous power outputs on one plate. Mike Nixon told me
        these are rare and most are now controlled by time switching. if you
        can unscrew your hob you can tell if it has separate elements on the
        one plate since it will have many wires attached. if it is time
        controlled you can sit your boiler in a pot of sand or on a thick
        piece of steel or copper to act as a buffer so it takes time for the
        on/off effect to happen.

        Peter

        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders" <spacejug@a...>
        wrote:
        > Temperature is exactly what you want. The mechanics of how it gets
        > done is what your'-describing. Im a beginner now, take it easy on
        > me! clete
        >
        >
        > Temperature control isn't really what you want. What
        > > you want is *power* control. Temperature control will
        > > inherently be varying the power as needed to maintain
        > > the set temperature. Power flucuations are exactly
        > > what you DON'T want. I use two 1500watt water heater
        > > elements. These are cheap and waste minimal heat.
        > > There's the pain of mounting these in your boiler,
        > > but if you use a proper screw fitting you only have
        > > to do this once. I plug in both elements when
        > > warming up, but only one when running. My 2 inch
        > > packed column can handle 1500watts with no problems.
        > > I have a power controller, unfortunately it has only
        > > three settings: 0, 1500, and 3000 watts. :)
        > >
        > > There's not much point in running the column with less
        > > power than it can handle (takes too long to do a run).
        > > The best thing about a power controller is that you can
        > > make adjustments and find the power limit for your
        > > setup. With all the experience of people on this forum
        > > and the wonderful information on homedistiller.org
        > > you should be able to make a very good guess at the
        > > power that your column should be able to handle before
        > > you ever do a run. You can then find an element or
        > > combination of elements which is close to but does not
        > > exceed this limit.
        > >
        > > Before I get a talked down to by those who run temperature
        > > controllers, I'm not claiming that they can't work.
        > > I'm just claiming there are pitfalls to avoid with them.
        > > Controllers which cycle the element on/off at a fairly
        > > fast rate are effectivly operating as a power controller.
        > > (very desirable)
        > >
        > >
        > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders"
        > <spacejug@a...>
        > > wrote:
        > > >
        > > > With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is
        > gonna
        > > > be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I
        still
        > > > haven't
        > > > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
        > > worried
        > > > about
        > > > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient
        > than
        > > > a hot
        > > > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
        > > > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
        > > > apparatus in
        > > > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
        > > the
        > > > criminal
        > > > > code?
        > > > >
        > > > > Sue
        > >
        > >
        > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
        > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
        > > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
        > > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
        > > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
        > Service.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > I can be wrong I must say
        > > Cheers, Alex...
        > > A
        > >
        > >
        > > ---------------------------------
        > > Do you Yahoo!?
        > > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
      • harrispaddy
        i have a big still made entirely out of copper (a 80litre boiler) but i don t know how best to heat it, as i don t have a big enough budget for a hotplate. Any
        Message 3 of 15 , Feb 22, 2006
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          i have a big still made entirely out of copper (a 80litre boiler) but i
          don't know how best to heat it, as i don't have a big enough budget for
          a hotplate. Any ideas?
        • ChrisMcFarland69@cs.com
          You could try using a camp chef propane turkey fryer/burner. The hose connecting it to the tank has a valve you can use to adjust the flame. It should have
          Message 4 of 15 , Feb 22, 2006
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            You could try using a camp chef propane turkey fryer/burner. The hose connecting it to the tank has a valve you can use to adjust the flame. It should have no problem heating your boiler.

            "harrispaddy" <harrispaddy@...> wrote:

            > i have a big still made entirely out of copper (a 80litre boiler) but i
            >don't know how best to heat it, as i don't have a big enough budget for
            >a hotplate. Any ideas?
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
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          • sexgods2000
            have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a 50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler for quick heat up and
            Message 5 of 15 , Aug 10, 2008
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              have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a
              50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler
              for quick heat up and unplug one when temp is reached would the
              remaining element maintain the temp required? has any one else used 2
              elements here? im still building my still and looking at all options.
              thanks
            • jamesonbeam1
              Hi Sexgods, Yes, there are many here who use doubled elements in their boilers on different controllers for bringing up to temp then turning one off or
              Message 6 of 15 , Aug 10, 2008
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                Hi Sexgods,

                Yes, there are many here who use doubled elements in their boilers on
                different controllers for bringing up to temp then turning one off or
                adjusting both for optimal temps during the distillation process.

                However, one caveat is that if your going to do any grain type
                distilling, I would watch out for burning those internal elements. Your
                will have to make sure all your worts / mashes are totally clear of any
                solids.

                They a Bi%ch to clean out. Why I use external heat.

                Vino es Veritas,

                Jim.
                --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sexgods2000" <billm_1983@...>
                wrote:
                >
                > have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a
                > 50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler
                > for quick heat up and unplug one when temp is reached would the
                > remaining element maintain the temp required? has any one else used 2
                > elements here? im still building my still and looking at all options.
                > thanks
                >
              • KM Services
                Yes Mate, My 50 litre keg has 2# 1500w elements and works great; as you say both to bring to the boil then one is unplugged This is my opinion and if I am
                Message 7 of 15 , Aug 10, 2008
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                  Yes Mate, My 50 litre keg has 2# 1500w elements and works great; as you say both to bring to the boil then one is unplugged

                   

                  This is my opinion and if I am wrong I will be corrected I am sure...

                  Cheers

                  Ken Mc

                   


                  From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of sexgods2000
                  Sent: Monday, 11 August 2008 2:33 a.m.
                  To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [new_distillers] heating

                   

                  have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a
                  50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler
                  for quick heat up and unplug one when temp is reached would the
                  remaining element maintain the temp required? has any one else used 2
                  elements here? im still building my still and looking at all options.
                  thanks

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