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Re: heating

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  • cletemeaders
    With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is gonna be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete ... haven t ... about ... a hot ...
    Message 1 of 15 , Jul 8, 2003
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      With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is gonna
      be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete


      > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
      haven't
      > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too* worried
      about
      > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient than
      a hot
      > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
      > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
      apparatus in
      > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in the
      criminal
      > code?
      >
      > Sue
    • nanosleep
      Temperature control isn t really what you want. What you want is *power* control. Temperature control will inherently be varying the power as needed to
      Message 2 of 15 , Jul 8, 2003
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        Temperature control isn't really what you want. What
        you want is *power* control. Temperature control will
        inherently be varying the power as needed to maintain
        the set temperature. Power flucuations are exactly
        what you DON'T want. I use two 1500watt water heater
        elements. These are cheap and waste minimal heat.
        There's the pain of mounting these in your boiler,
        but if you use a proper screw fitting you only have
        to do this once. I plug in both elements when
        warming up, but only one when running. My 2 inch
        packed column can handle 1500watts with no problems.
        I have a power controller, unfortunately it has only
        three settings: 0, 1500, and 3000 watts. :)

        There's not much point in running the column with less
        power than it can handle (takes too long to do a run).
        The best thing about a power controller is that you can
        make adjustments and find the power limit for your
        setup. With all the experience of people on this forum
        and the wonderful information on homedistiller.org
        you should be able to make a very good guess at the
        power that your column should be able to handle before
        you ever do a run. You can then find an element or
        combination of elements which is close to but does not
        exceed this limit.

        Before I get a talked down to by those who run temperature
        controllers, I'm not claiming that they can't work.
        I'm just claiming there are pitfalls to avoid with them.
        Controllers which cycle the element on/off at a fairly
        fast rate are effectivly operating as a power controller.
        (very desirable)


        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders" <spacejug@a...>
        wrote:
        >
        > With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is gonna
        > be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete
        >
        >
        > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
        > haven't
        > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
        worried
        > about
        > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient than
        > a hot
        > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
        > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
        > apparatus in
        > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
        the
        > criminal
        > > code?
        > >
        > > Sue
      • nanosleep
        I assume your milk can is made of stainless steel. If you want to use the internal water heater style elements, you may have trouble attaching these to the
        Message 3 of 15 , Jul 8, 2003
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          I assume your milk can is made of stainless steel. If you
          want to use the internal 'water heater' style elements,
          you may have trouble attaching these to the stainless boiler.
          My boiler is a stainless steel stock pot. The method I used
          to attach the elements is to braze a threaded brass fitting
          onto the side of the pot. Brazing isn't difficult to do,
          (However it is difficult to do it pretty. My boiler works
          perfectly but is rather ugly) If you want more info, just ask!
          The water heater element then screw into this brass fitting.
          This is great for cleaning or replacing burned out elements.
          The cheap elements are less than $10US. Be sure to properly
          ground the boiler! Again, just ask if you need more info.


          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Hogle, Susan" <hogles@a...>
          wrote:
          > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
          haven't
          > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too* worried
          about
          > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient than a
          hot
          > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
          > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this apparatus
          in
          > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in the
          criminal
          > code?
          >
          > Sue
        • noobtothis
          Ok...I am in the process of building my unit as well. I was thinking of using a control from a stove to control the heating elements in the keg I am using.
          Message 4 of 15 , Jul 8, 2003
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            Ok...I am in the process of building my unit as well. I was
            thinking of using a control from a stove to control the heating
            elements in the keg I am using. Yes it is stainless. Not the oven
            control but the rangetop control. When you set the eye on the stove
            to a particular setting, it keeps the eye at the same temp. Would
            this not be the way to go guys?

            Any responses appreciated as I am new to this and want to get a good
            start with minimal problems.


            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
            wrote:
            > I assume your milk can is made of stainless steel. If you
            > want to use the internal 'water heater' style elements,
            > you may have trouble attaching these to the stainless boiler.
            > My boiler is a stainless steel stock pot. The method I used
            > to attach the elements is to braze a threaded brass fitting
            > onto the side of the pot. Brazing isn't difficult to do,
            > (However it is difficult to do it pretty. My boiler works
            > perfectly but is rather ugly) If you want more info, just ask!
            > The water heater element then screw into this brass fitting.
            > This is great for cleaning or replacing burned out elements.
            > The cheap elements are less than $10US. Be sure to properly
            > ground the boiler! Again, just ask if you need more info.
            >
            >
            > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Hogle, Susan" <hogles@a...>
            > wrote:
            > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
            > haven't
            > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
            worried
            > about
            > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient
            than a
            > hot
            > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
            > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
            apparatus
            > in
            > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
            the
            > criminal
            > > code?
            > >
            > > Sue
          • Mike Nixon
            noobtothis wrote: Subject: [new_distillers] Re: heating Ok...I am in the process of building my unit as well. I was thinking of using a control from a stove
            Message 5 of 15 , Jul 8, 2003
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              noobtothis wrote:
              Subject: [new_distillers] Re: heating

              Ok...I am in the process of building my unit as well.  I was thinking of using a control from a stove to control the heating
              elements in the keg I am using.  Yes it is stainless.  Not the oven control but the rangetop control.  When you set the eye on the stove to a particular setting, it keeps the eye at the same temp.  Would this not be the way to go guys?

              Any responses appreciated as I am new to this and want to get a good start with minimal problems.
              ===========================
              Be sure that the control you use is the type that provides continuous and smooth adjustment to the power.  Some controls use a bimetallic strip that opens and closes at different rates depending on what you set, and these provide rather rough control as the time between cycles can be quite long.  This is OK for a rangetop which is in air, but you will be controlling power to an immersed element, and that doesn't retain its heat as it is surrounded by liquid.  Slow switching can lead to surge boiling, which upsets what is happening in the column.  The key thing to ask if you are buying such a control is whether it is a thermostatis control or a continuous power control.
               
              Mike N
               
               
            • Harley Daschund
              ...When you set the eye on the stove ... Gas,maybe...electric...nope..the element cycles .....temp varies...: ) ...
              Message 6 of 15 , Jul 9, 2003
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                ''...When you set the eye on the stove
                >to a particular setting, it keeps the eye at the same temp."
                Gas,maybe...electric...nope..the element 'cycles'.....temp varies...:>)

                >From: "noobtothis" <drickles37388@...>
                >Reply-To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: heating
                >Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 03:14:48 -0000
                >
                >Ok...I am in the process of building my unit as well. I was
                >thinking of using a control from a stove to control the heating
                >elements in the keg I am using. Yes it is stainless. Not the oven
                >control but the rangetop control. When you set the eye on the stove
                >to a particular setting, it keeps the eye at the same temp. Would
                >this not be the way to go guys?
                >
                >Any responses appreciated as I am new to this and want to get a good
                >start with minimal problems.
                >
                >
                >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "nanosleep" <nanosleep@y...>
                >wrote:
                > > I assume your milk can is made of stainless steel. If you
                > > want to use the internal 'water heater' style elements,
                > > you may have trouble attaching these to the stainless boiler.
                > > My boiler is a stainless steel stock pot. The method I used
                > > to attach the elements is to braze a threaded brass fitting
                > > onto the side of the pot. Brazing isn't difficult to do,
                > > (However it is difficult to do it pretty. My boiler works
                > > perfectly but is rather ugly) If you want more info, just ask!
                > > The water heater element then screw into this brass fitting.
                > > This is great for cleaning or replacing burned out elements.
                > > The cheap elements are less than $10US. Be sure to properly
                > > ground the boiler! Again, just ask if you need more info.
                > >
                > >
                > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Hogle, Susan" <hogles@a...>
                > > wrote:
                > > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
                > > haven't
                > > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
                >worried
                > > about
                > > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient
                >than a
                > > hot
                > > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
                > > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
                >apparatus
                > > in
                > > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
                >the
                > > criminal
                > > > code?
                > > >
                > > > Sue
                >

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              • BOKAKOB
                If you add a suitable diode in series to your setup you could have one half of those settings. nanosleep wrote:Temperature control isn t
                Message 7 of 15 , Jul 9, 2003
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                  If you add a suitable diode in series to your setup you could have one half of those settings.

                  nanosleep <nanosleep@...> wrote:
                  Temperature control isn't really what you want.  What
                  you want is *power* control.  Temperature control will
                  inherently be varying the power as needed to maintain
                  the set temperature.  Power flucuations are exactly
                  what you DON'T want.  I use two 1500watt water heater
                  elements.  These are cheap and waste minimal heat.
                  There's the pain of mounting these in your boiler,
                  but if you use a proper screw fitting you only have
                  to do this once.  I plug in both elements when
                  warming up, but only one when running.  My 2 inch
                  packed column can handle 1500watts with no problems.
                  I have a power controller, unfortunately it has only
                  three settings: 0, 1500, and 3000 watts. :)

                  There's not much point in running the column with less
                  power than it can handle (takes too long to do a run).
                  The best thing about a power controller is that you can
                  make adjustments and find the power limit for your
                  setup.  With all the experience of people on this forum
                  and the wonderful information on homedistiller.org
                  you should be able to make a very good guess at the
                  power that your column should be able to handle before
                  you ever do a run.  You can then find an element or
                  combination of elements which is close to but does not
                  exceed this limit.

                  Before I get a talked down to by those who run temperature
                  controllers, I'm not claiming that they can't work.
                  I'm just claiming there are pitfalls to avoid with them.
                  Controllers which cycle the element on/off at a fairly
                  fast rate are effectivly operating as a power controller.
                  (very desirable)


                  --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders" <spacejug@a...>
                  wrote:
                  >
                  > With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is gonna
                  > be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete
                  >
                  >
                  > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
                  > haven't
                  > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
                  worried
                  > about
                  > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient than
                  > a hot
                  > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
                  > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
                  > apparatus in
                  > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
                  the
                  > criminal
                  > > code?
                  > > 
                  > > Sue



                  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                  new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                  New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
                  FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org



                  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


                  I can be wrong I must say
                  Cheers, Alex...
                  A


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                • cletemeaders
                  Temperature is exactly what you want. The mechanics of how it gets done is what your -describing. Im a beginner now, take it easy on me! clete Temperature
                  Message 8 of 15 , Jul 9, 2003
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                    Temperature is exactly what you want. The mechanics of how it gets
                    done is what your'-describing. Im a beginner now, take it easy on
                    me! clete


                    Temperature control isn't really what you want. What
                    > you want is *power* control. Temperature control will
                    > inherently be varying the power as needed to maintain
                    > the set temperature. Power flucuations are exactly
                    > what you DON'T want. I use two 1500watt water heater
                    > elements. These are cheap and waste minimal heat.
                    > There's the pain of mounting these in your boiler,
                    > but if you use a proper screw fitting you only have
                    > to do this once. I plug in both elements when
                    > warming up, but only one when running. My 2 inch
                    > packed column can handle 1500watts with no problems.
                    > I have a power controller, unfortunately it has only
                    > three settings: 0, 1500, and 3000 watts. :)
                    >
                    > There's not much point in running the column with less
                    > power than it can handle (takes too long to do a run).
                    > The best thing about a power controller is that you can
                    > make adjustments and find the power limit for your
                    > setup. With all the experience of people on this forum
                    > and the wonderful information on homedistiller.org
                    > you should be able to make a very good guess at the
                    > power that your column should be able to handle before
                    > you ever do a run. You can then find an element or
                    > combination of elements which is close to but does not
                    > exceed this limit.
                    >
                    > Before I get a talked down to by those who run temperature
                    > controllers, I'm not claiming that they can't work.
                    > I'm just claiming there are pitfalls to avoid with them.
                    > Controllers which cycle the element on/off at a fairly
                    > fast rate are effectivly operating as a power controller.
                    > (very desirable)
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders"
                    <spacejug@a...>
                    > wrote:
                    > >
                    > > With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is
                    gonna
                    > > be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I still
                    > > haven't
                    > > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
                    > worried
                    > > about
                    > > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient
                    than
                    > > a hot
                    > > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
                    > > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
                    > > apparatus in
                    > > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
                    > the
                    > > criminal
                    > > > code?
                    > > >
                    > > > Sue
                    >
                    >
                    > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
                    > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                    > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                    > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
                    > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                    Service.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > I can be wrong I must say
                    > Cheers, Alex...
                    > A
                    >
                    >
                    > ---------------------------------
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                  • peter_vcb
                    i have an old hob and it at different power settings (1-5) it switches to different connections on the one hotplate, therefore giving 5 continous power outputs
                    Message 9 of 15 , Jul 10, 2003
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                      i have an old hob and it at different power settings (1-5) it
                      switches to different connections on the one hotplate, therefore
                      giving 5 continous power outputs on one plate. Mike Nixon told me
                      these are rare and most are now controlled by time switching. if you
                      can unscrew your hob you can tell if it has separate elements on the
                      one plate since it will have many wires attached. if it is time
                      controlled you can sit your boiler in a pot of sand or on a thick
                      piece of steel or copper to act as a buffer so it takes time for the
                      on/off effect to happen.

                      Peter

                      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders" <spacejug@a...>
                      wrote:
                      > Temperature is exactly what you want. The mechanics of how it gets
                      > done is what your'-describing. Im a beginner now, take it easy on
                      > me! clete
                      >
                      >
                      > Temperature control isn't really what you want. What
                      > > you want is *power* control. Temperature control will
                      > > inherently be varying the power as needed to maintain
                      > > the set temperature. Power flucuations are exactly
                      > > what you DON'T want. I use two 1500watt water heater
                      > > elements. These are cheap and waste minimal heat.
                      > > There's the pain of mounting these in your boiler,
                      > > but if you use a proper screw fitting you only have
                      > > to do this once. I plug in both elements when
                      > > warming up, but only one when running. My 2 inch
                      > > packed column can handle 1500watts with no problems.
                      > > I have a power controller, unfortunately it has only
                      > > three settings: 0, 1500, and 3000 watts. :)
                      > >
                      > > There's not much point in running the column with less
                      > > power than it can handle (takes too long to do a run).
                      > > The best thing about a power controller is that you can
                      > > make adjustments and find the power limit for your
                      > > setup. With all the experience of people on this forum
                      > > and the wonderful information on homedistiller.org
                      > > you should be able to make a very good guess at the
                      > > power that your column should be able to handle before
                      > > you ever do a run. You can then find an element or
                      > > combination of elements which is close to but does not
                      > > exceed this limit.
                      > >
                      > > Before I get a talked down to by those who run temperature
                      > > controllers, I'm not claiming that they can't work.
                      > > I'm just claiming there are pitfalls to avoid with them.
                      > > Controllers which cycle the element on/off at a fairly
                      > > fast rate are effectivly operating as a power controller.
                      > > (very desirable)
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cletemeaders"
                      > <spacejug@a...>
                      > > wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > With any still other than a pot-still, temperature-control is
                      > gonna
                      > > > be very important. A hot-plate is the way to go. clete
                      > > >
                      > > >
                      > > > > Hi, I have my plans all drawn up for my 1st still, but I
                      still
                      > > > haven't
                      > > > > decided on how to heat my boiler (milk can). I'm not *too*
                      > > worried
                      > > > about
                      > > > > power consumption, but would still like to be more efficient
                      > than
                      > > > a hot
                      > > > > plate if I can. Any suggestions?
                      > > > > Also, um..if hypothetically speaking I was to operate this
                      > > > apparatus in
                      > > > > Canada, does anyone know where I might find the regulations in
                      > > the
                      > > > criminal
                      > > > > code?
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Sue
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
                      > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                      > > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                      > > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
                      > > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                      > Service.
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > I can be wrong I must say
                      > > Cheers, Alex...
                      > > A
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > ---------------------------------
                      > > Do you Yahoo!?
                      > > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
                    • harrispaddy
                      i have a big still made entirely out of copper (a 80litre boiler) but i don t know how best to heat it, as i don t have a big enough budget for a hotplate. Any
                      Message 10 of 15 , Feb 22, 2006
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                        i have a big still made entirely out of copper (a 80litre boiler) but i
                        don't know how best to heat it, as i don't have a big enough budget for
                        a hotplate. Any ideas?
                      • ChrisMcFarland69@cs.com
                        You could try using a camp chef propane turkey fryer/burner. The hose connecting it to the tank has a valve you can use to adjust the flame. It should have
                        Message 11 of 15 , Feb 22, 2006
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                          You could try using a camp chef propane turkey fryer/burner. The hose connecting it to the tank has a valve you can use to adjust the flame. It should have no problem heating your boiler.

                          "harrispaddy" <harrispaddy@...> wrote:

                          > i have a big still made entirely out of copper (a 80litre boiler) but i
                          >don't know how best to heat it, as i don't have a big enough budget for
                          >a hotplate. Any ideas?
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
                          >FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
                          >
                          >
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                        • sexgods2000
                          have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a 50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler for quick heat up and
                          Message 12 of 15 , Aug 10 7:32 AM
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                            have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a
                            50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler
                            for quick heat up and unplug one when temp is reached would the
                            remaining element maintain the temp required? has any one else used 2
                            elements here? im still building my still and looking at all options.
                            thanks
                          • jamesonbeam1
                            Hi Sexgods, Yes, there are many here who use doubled elements in their boilers on different controllers for bringing up to temp then turning one off or
                            Message 13 of 15 , Aug 10 7:52 AM
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                              Hi Sexgods,

                              Yes, there are many here who use doubled elements in their boilers on
                              different controllers for bringing up to temp then turning one off or
                              adjusting both for optimal temps during the distillation process.

                              However, one caveat is that if your going to do any grain type
                              distilling, I would watch out for burning those internal elements. Your
                              will have to make sure all your worts / mashes are totally clear of any
                              solids.

                              They a Bi%ch to clean out. Why I use external heat.

                              Vino es Veritas,

                              Jim.
                              --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sexgods2000" <billm_1983@...>
                              wrote:
                              >
                              > have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a
                              > 50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler
                              > for quick heat up and unplug one when temp is reached would the
                              > remaining element maintain the temp required? has any one else used 2
                              > elements here? im still building my still and looking at all options.
                              > thanks
                              >
                            • KM Services
                              Yes Mate, My 50 litre keg has 2# 1500w elements and works great; as you say both to bring to the boil then one is unplugged This is my opinion and if I am
                              Message 14 of 15 , Aug 10 12:06 PM
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                                Yes Mate, My 50 litre keg has 2# 1500w elements and works great; as you say both to bring to the boil then one is unplugged

                                 

                                This is my opinion and if I am wrong I will be corrected I am sure...

                                Cheers

                                Ken Mc

                                 


                                From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of sexgods2000
                                Sent: Monday, 11 August 2008 2:33 a.m.
                                To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: [new_distillers] heating

                                 

                                have been looking at all ideas for heating my boiler. my boiler is a
                                50ltr keg. i am wondering if i mount 2x 1500w elements in the boiler
                                for quick heat up and unplug one when temp is reached would the
                                remaining element maintain the temp required? has any one else used 2
                                elements here? im still building my still and looking at all options.
                                thanks

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