Re: another ? about your still design
Two separator assemblies (DR) and (SR) do the same job - allow vapors to pass to the condenser coil and then separating the condensate by directing the liquid to the outlet spigot. Both types are very versatile and work well. The reason for me to develop the second type (SR) is that when I completed the one with two back to back reducers (DR) my column did not fit in the space between the kitchen stove top and the ceiling. So, I had to come up with something different and shorter. The other reason to come up with this �single reducer� was just plain fun of invention. In my opinion the second (SR) is a bit cheaper and involves a little more skill to build.
I aligned parts just by fitting them together temporary with an adhesive tape, marking the holes and then drilling all of them separately. You are right - the reducer hole was drilled first and then the outer hole was aligned to it. The reducer hole was drilled in two stages. I drilled a 0.125" (3mm) pilot hole first and then used the right size drill bit to complete the size. The second hole is just a bit oversized and allowed pretty easy assembly. Prior to assembly I had to use miniature files and to shape the outer hole (the one visible from the outside) in elliptical shape. Angle doesn�t matter.
The inside hole on the inverted reducer was rimmed on the side facing the outside hole and this allowed me to fit the end of the take-off tube inside of the reducer wall thickness. It also allowed a little play as I fitted parts together. I did not use drill press, I used wise only. If you have tools, place and skills then please do!
Double Reducer is easier to build and it looks better in the assembled view, Single Reducer is more elegant solution because it uses less parts. It is your choice and taste what decides which one to build. I personally prefer the �(EL)liptical plates� separator - my third creation. It is really simple but kind of difficult to build.
I used least expensive thermometer I could find on the internet. I recommend searching on http://www.eBay.com There are plenty thermometers there. Of course the digital one is better, but if you are into �primitivism� then bi-metal type is the best. I drilled a hole for the thermometer and left it at that. I wrap the thermometer shaft with any temperature tolerant tape to fit the shaft inside the hole. Even shredded kitchen bag will do. I think that a brass cut-off piece of an automobile tire air valve soldered to the condenser tube would make a bit better fitting. The size of this air valve looks right to me.
Again that was my challenge, now it is up to you to conquer yours.
i've obtained all the copper, fittings etc and am getting ready to assemble
i laid everything out and noticed something
1. i have 2 different blue prints you graciously provided. one with (2) 2"x3/4 reducers connected end to end with 3/4 pipe and the other blue print has one reducer that is butt soldered to a coupling with 1/4" stem (45 degree take off) from the reducer through the coupler connected to needle valve. you state the later is the design you currently use. The Question why use the later design? as opposed to the first. is there an advantage or just saves a reducer?
2. Regarding the one reducer that is butt soldered to a coupling with 1/4" stem (45 degree take off) from the reducer through the coupler connected to needle valve. What pearls do you have on constructing this? Especially how do you align it all (appears to be 45 degree) Do you drill into reducer first, then the coupler try to align then solder . How far down the coupler do you drill? Do you recommend drill press?
Do you have any specifics or do you just eye it?
3. which thermometer do you recommend? it seems i saw one of your posts with an electronic thermometer (perhaps with an alarm) but i can't find it again. Also, do you drill 1/4" hole is that pretty universal?
as always thanks for all your help!
I can be wrong I must say.
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!