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Re: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

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  • girlguidebiscuit
    Look around for easy flange used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2 copper.
    Message 1 of 11 , Mar 17, 2013
      Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

      However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

      I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

      In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

      This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

      Paul
      Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.
    • ahandyman59
      Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary. They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless
      Message 2 of 11 , Mar 20, 2013

        Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary.  They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless and copper) are usually silver soldered together, not plumbers solder. The resulting bond is quite strong.

         

        Ahandyman59

         

        From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
        Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 3:21 PM
        To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

         

         

        Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

        However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

        I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

        In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

        This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

        Paul

        Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.

      • girlguidebiscuit
        There s an awful lot of copper on this page, and some hammering. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=27056&start=15 I m not sure of the point
        Message 3 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013
          There's an awful lot of copper on this page, and some hammering. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=27056&start=15

          I'm not sure of the point of your posting. I outlined a way to make a flange that works using RJT fittings.

          Paul
        • alpinecnc
          Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper. Works Great much easier and better than silver solder. I make theses in 2” through 6” Chuck From:
          Message 4 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013

          Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

           

          Chuck

           

          From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ahandyman59
          Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 5:16 PM
          To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

           

           

          Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary.  They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless and copper) are usually silver soldered together, not plumbers solder. The resulting bond is quite strong.

           

          Ahandyman59

           

          From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
          Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 3:21 PM
          To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

           

           

          Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

          However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

          I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

          In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

          This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

          Paul

          Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.

        • girlguidebiscuit
          Chuck, what filler rod do you use please? Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in
          Message 5 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013
            Chuck, what filler rod do you use please?


            Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

             

            Chuck

             

            __
          • alpinecnc
            No Filler used. Just melted the copper into the Stainless Fitting. From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
            Message 6 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013

              No Filler used.  Just melted the copper into the Stainless Fitting. 

               

              From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
              Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 8:49 PM
              To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

               

               

              Chuck, what filler rod do you use please?

              Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

               

              Chuck

               

              __

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