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Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

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  • James Gates
    The plan is called The Easy Pot Still drawn by S. MacEwan. My 40L milk jug had a concave lid, so welded on a SS mixing bowl and cut the top so that the lid
    Message 1 of 11 , Mar 17, 2013
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      The plan is called "The Easy Pot Still" drawn by S. MacEwan. My 40L milk jug had a concave lid, so welded on a SS mixing bowl and cut the top so that the lid is now convex. The handle ran across the lid, so I cut out the center section of the handle and removed it. Am in process of flattening the handle tubing where cut and welding onto the mixing bowl so it will be a handle again. I am a retired steel fabricator and my son in law has the wire feed welding machine, he lives a couple hours away. So will be getting it back home in a week and am working on the tower. Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits. Officially this a custom shop vacuum altho damn it sure looks like a ............................
    • girlguidebiscuit
      Look around for easy flange used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2 copper.
      Message 2 of 11 , Mar 17, 2013
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        Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

        However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

        I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

        In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

        This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

        Paul
        Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.
      • ahandyman59
        Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary. They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless
        Message 3 of 11 , Mar 20, 2013
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          Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary.  They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless and copper) are usually silver soldered together, not plumbers solder. The resulting bond is quite strong.

           

          Ahandyman59

           

          From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
          Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 3:21 PM
          To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

           

           

          Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

          However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

          I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

          In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

          This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

          Paul

          Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.

        • girlguidebiscuit
          There s an awful lot of copper on this page, and some hammering. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=27056&start=15 I m not sure of the point
          Message 4 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013
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            There's an awful lot of copper on this page, and some hammering. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=27056&start=15

            I'm not sure of the point of your posting. I outlined a way to make a flange that works using RJT fittings.

            Paul
          • alpinecnc
            Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper. Works Great much easier and better than silver solder. I make theses in 2” through 6” Chuck From:
            Message 5 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013

            Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

             

            Chuck

             

            From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ahandyman59
            Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 5:16 PM
            To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

             

             

            Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary.  They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless and copper) are usually silver soldered together, not plumbers solder. The resulting bond is quite strong.

             

            Ahandyman59

             

            From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
            Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 3:21 PM
            To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

             

             

            Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

            However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

            I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

            In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

            This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

            Paul

            Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.

          • girlguidebiscuit
            Chuck, what filler rod do you use please? Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in
            Message 6 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013
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              Chuck, what filler rod do you use please?


              Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

               

              Chuck

               

              __
            • alpinecnc
              No Filler used. Just melted the copper into the Stainless Fitting. From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
              Message 7 of 11 , Mar 21, 2013
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                No Filler used.  Just melted the copper into the Stainless Fitting. 

                 

                From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
                Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 8:49 PM
                To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

                 

                 

                Chuck, what filler rod do you use please?

                Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

                 

                Chuck

                 

                __

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