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My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

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  • James Gates
    I am using a plan called the simple pot still. It calls for a forty liter boiler, I am using a `10gal milk can. I had a difficult time finding the 2 copper
    Message 1 of 11 , Mar 15 1:51 PM
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      I am using a plan called the simple pot still. It calls for a forty liter boiler, I am using a `10gal milk can. I had a difficult time finding the 2" copper pipe for the tower, so they sold me 2ft and the plan calls for for 500mm length which is aprox 19.5"
      Is the extra 4.5inches hurt or help the still? Then I had option to get a thinner or thicker two inch copper pipe, I went with the thicker, but wonder if it makes a difference?
      thanks
    • Jeff Kimble
      doesn t really make a difference for a pot still.. If you were planning a reflux column, then the amount of packing, and length, affects the purity of the
      Message 2 of 11 , Mar 15 11:12 PM
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        doesn't really make a difference for a pot still..  If you were planning a reflux column, then the amount of packing, and length, affects the purity of the alcohol.

        There will be a small( very small ) amount of passive cooling from the extra column length, but most pot still designs have a lyne arm which can add the same effect of passive reflux.

        The wall thickness is about the same.. Thinner walled copper can radiate heat and have strange behavior based on external cooling on a reflux column, but little to no impact on a straight pot set up.. 

        Most of the time, the length for a pot still to to leave room for the condensor and the collection vessel

        Cheers!
      • local yokel
        No problem on the length, longer is usually just get the break over point higher so when you angle down with your condensing unit (liebig?) you are not
        Message 3 of 11 , Mar 16 5:59 AM
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          No problem on the length, longer is usually just get the break over point higher so when you angle down with your condensing unit (liebig?) you are not collecting distillate on the ground. 10 gal milk can works great, that is what my boiler is. I had to make a gasket to seal the lid tightly on mind though. Sounds like my rig is very similar to what your considering. http://i.imgur.com/Lns5UmI.jpg

          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "James Gates" <panache_fine_art@...> wrote:
          >
          > I am using a plan called the simple pot still. It calls for a forty liter boiler, I am using a `10gal milk can. I had a difficult time finding the 2" copper pipe for the tower, so they sold me 2ft and the plan calls for for 500mm length which is aprox 19.5"
          > Is the extra 4.5inches hurt or help the still? Then I had option to get a thinner or thicker two inch copper pipe, I went with the thicker, but wonder if it makes a difference?
          > thanks
          >
        • ballard_bootlegger
          The length definitely makes a difference. If you re not planning to make any neutral spirits of un-aged fruit brandy (eau de vie) than you don t really need
          Message 4 of 11 , Mar 16 11:29 AM
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            The length definitely makes a difference. If you're not planning to make any neutral spirits of un-aged fruit brandy (eau de vie) than you don't really need the extra length.

            Everything about the shape of the still will change the flavor of the booze, if you run a recipe through two different stills you will get two different results. The extra height will give your still the ability to make a more pure spirit, or take more heat and run faster while maintaining similar purity. It's all about the amount of reflux your still is capable of. A taller still, with everything else the same, typically means more reflux. The thicker pipe won't make a ton of difference but it will retain more heat saving some energy and be more durable.


            -Drink Well.




            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "James Gates" <panache_fine_art@...> wrote:
            >
            > I am using a plan called the simple pot still. It calls for a forty liter boiler, I am using a `10gal milk can. I had a difficult time finding the 2" copper pipe for the tower, so they sold me 2ft and the plan calls for for 500mm length which is aprox 19.5"
            > Is the extra 4.5inches hurt or help the still? Then I had option to get a thinner or thicker two inch copper pipe, I went with the thicker, but wonder if it makes a difference?
            > thanks
            >
          • James Gates
            The plan is called The Easy Pot Still drawn by S. MacEwan. My 40L milk jug had a concave lid, so welded on a SS mixing bowl and cut the top so that the lid
            Message 5 of 11 , Mar 17 12:50 PM
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              The plan is called "The Easy Pot Still" drawn by S. MacEwan. My 40L milk jug had a concave lid, so welded on a SS mixing bowl and cut the top so that the lid is now convex. The handle ran across the lid, so I cut out the center section of the handle and removed it. Am in process of flattening the handle tubing where cut and welding onto the mixing bowl so it will be a handle again. I am a retired steel fabricator and my son in law has the wire feed welding machine, he lives a couple hours away. So will be getting it back home in a week and am working on the tower. Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits. Officially this a custom shop vacuum altho damn it sure looks like a ............................
            • girlguidebiscuit
              Look around for easy flange used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2 copper.
              Message 6 of 11 , Mar 17 3:20 PM
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                Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

                However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

                I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

                In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

                This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

                Paul
                Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.
              • ahandyman59
                Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary. They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless
                Message 7 of 11 , Mar 20 5:16 PM
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                  Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary.  They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless and copper) are usually silver soldered together, not plumbers solder. The resulting bond is quite strong.

                   

                  Ahandyman59

                   

                  From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
                  Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 3:21 PM
                  To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

                   

                   

                  Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

                  However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

                  I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

                  In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

                  This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

                  Paul

                  Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.

                • girlguidebiscuit
                  There s an awful lot of copper on this page, and some hammering. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=27056&start=15 I m not sure of the point
                  Message 8 of 11 , Mar 21 9:28 AM
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                    There's an awful lot of copper on this page, and some hammering. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=27056&start=15

                    I'm not sure of the point of your posting. I outlined a way to make a flange that works using RJT fittings.

                    Paul
                  • alpinecnc
                    Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper. Works Great much easier and better than silver solder. I make theses in 2” through 6” Chuck From:
                    Message 9 of 11 , Mar 21 8:47 PM

                    Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

                     

                    Chuck

                     

                    From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ahandyman59
                    Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 5:16 PM
                    To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

                     

                     

                    Easy flanges usually sit right in to a 2 inch pipe. No hammering necessary.  They are usually made out of stainless steel. The two dissimilar metals (stainless and copper) are usually silver soldered together, not plumbers solder. The resulting bond is quite strong.

                     

                    Ahandyman59

                     

                    From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
                    Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 3:21 PM
                    To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

                     

                     

                    Look around for "easy flange" used in conjunction with triclover fittings and sankey beer keg valve flanges. In these you hammer a flange into the 2" copper.

                    However I have gone one better, having a number of ex-winery sanitary S/S "RJT" screw fittings. The problem is that the 2" copper ID is too small, even with the flange hammered in as in the easy flange above, to fit the RJT union rubber seal.

                    I begged the use of a plumbers pipe expander (not the drift type) - anneal the copper, shove the expander in, and expand the tube until the ID matches the RJT fitting / seal. Hammer the flange in = perfect 2" S/S to 2" copper adaptor.

                    In fact I have gone one even better. I mutilated a 2-1/2" to 2" to 1-1/2" adaptor to enable to me to use 1-1/2" copper for the pot still riser. Cut the 2-1/2" skirt off (but leave the shoulder which becomes the hammer-flat flange) and expand the mid section. The other end stays 1-1/2".. I figured the smaller tube would make no difference to performance, and be quite a bit cheaper.

                    This setup allows me to have either pot still or reflux tower on the one boiler.

                    Paul

                    Trying to figure out a way to clamp the tower on so later can build a reflux tower for more pure spirits.

                  • girlguidebiscuit
                    Chuck, what filler rod do you use please? Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in
                    Message 10 of 11 , Mar 21 8:49 PM
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                      Chuck, what filler rod do you use please?


                      Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

                       

                      Chuck

                       

                      __
                    • alpinecnc
                      No Filler used. Just melted the copper into the Stainless Fitting. From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
                      Message 11 of 11 , Mar 21 11:46 PM
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                        No Filler used.  Just melted the copper into the Stainless Fitting. 

                         

                        From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of self.adhesive@...
                        Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 8:49 PM
                        To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: RE: [new_distillers] Re: My 2" pipe purchase, does the extra length make a differeince.

                         

                         

                        Chuck, what filler rod do you use please?

                        Stainless Steel Tig welded to Copper.  Works Great much easier and better than silver solder.  I make theses in 2” through 6”

                         

                        Chuck

                         

                        __

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