Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

Expand Messages
  • RLB
    All these idea are nice, but they are still not better than threads for small pipes.  I love the metal belt that holds my cap to its pot. Robert
    Message 1 of 22 , Feb 7, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      All these idea are nice, but they are still not better than threads for small pipes.  I love the metal belt that holds my cap to its pot.

      Robert



      From: White Bear <sha_man_1@...>
      To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 2:13 PM
      Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

       
       
       
      "The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped."
       
      This is what I use for my gaskets although you have to be careful with the amount of pressure you use to tighten the fittings so as not to crush the gasket.  As an added insurence I wrap the joint with a vulcanized rubber product made for leaky pipes.  I am sorry but I don't remember the name of it but it comes in a roll and is a bit sticky so it readily stickes to itself.  Use this to wrap around the outside of the joint.  You don't need much as it stretches quite a lot.
      White Bear
       
       

      From: Nicodeamous <nicodeamous@...>
      To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 9:11 AM
      Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
       
      If the connections are fairly snug, use teflon tape to seal the gap.

      If the the connection is so loose that you need a rubber seal, two rubber grades i recommend are Silicone and EPDM.

      The pros of Silicone is that it has excellent heat resistance and are not commonly compounded using sulfur, oil and additives.

      The cons of silicone is that they can be more fragile than other rubbers and are not especially resistant to ethanol(it may swell a bit, flourosilicone would be better in this respect). Also, some are cured with peroxides that can be a bit 'smelly' when new.

      Look for seals that are platimum cured and/or are translucent, ( such as many medical grade seals)if you want the 'cleanest' seals.

      The pros of EPDM is that it is resistant to both water and ethanol, is tougher than silicone, cheaper and generally more common.

      The cons are that EPDM is often compounded with oils, waxes, sulfur and other additives which can be extracted from the rubber while in contact with the hot vapors of the still.

      Look for seals that are NSF & UL approved for use with potable water.

      With all seals, wash them thoroughly and 'bake' them in an oven for an hour or three at 250'F (best to suspend from your baking rack with a thin wire) before use.

      This will cause many of the additives & oils that may be lurking inside to come out and will not hurt the rubber.

      You can get an idea of the quality of the seal this way. Cheaper seals will generate more smoke than better quality seals. Many will actually shrink a bit.

      The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped.

      Nico



    • Jim Wannaknow
      gee what ever happened to good ole flour paste?
      Message 2 of 22 , Feb 7, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        gee what ever happened to good ole flour paste?

        On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 9:11 AM, Nicodeamous <nicodeamous@...> wrote:
         

        If the connections are fairly snug, use teflon tape to seal the gap.

        If the the connection is so loose that you need a rubber seal, two rubber grades i recommend are Silicone and EPDM.

        The pros of Silicone is that it has excellent heat resistance and are not commonly compounded using sulfur, oil and additives.

        The cons of silicone is that they can be more fragile than other rubbers and are not especially resistant to ethanol(it may swell a bit, flourosilicone would be better in this respect). Also, some are cured with peroxides that can be a bit 'smelly' when new.

        Look for seals that are platimum cured and/or are translucent, ( such as many medical grade seals)if you want the 'cleanest' seals.

        The pros of EPDM is that it is resistant to both water and ethanol, is tougher than silicone, cheaper and generally more common.

        The cons are that EPDM is often compounded with oils, waxes, sulfur and other additives which can be extracted from the rubber while in contact with the hot vapors of the still.

        Look for seals that are NSF & UL approved for use with potable water.

        With all seals, wash them thoroughly and 'bake' them in an oven for an hour or three at 250'F (best to suspend from your baking rack with a thin wire) before use.

        This will cause many of the additives & oils that may be lurking inside to come out and will not hurt the rubber.

        You can get an idea of the quality of the seal this way. Cheaper seals will generate more smoke than better quality seals. Many will actually shrink a bit.

        The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped.

        Nico


      • Carlos alberto Sanchez
        yo soy un verdadero milagro de la vida ________________________________ De: mtj2854 Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com Enviado: domingo,
        Message 3 of 22 , Feb 8, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          yo soy un verdadero milagro de la vida


          De: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
          Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          Enviado: domingo, 3 de febrero de 2013 22:40
          Asunto: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

           
          I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]

          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
          >
          > I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe around main or lyme arm...will post pics asap....thanks...
          >



        • Carlos alberto Sanchez
          YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LA VIDA ________________________________ De: Carlos alberto Sanchez Para:
          Message 4 of 22 , Feb 20, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LA VIDA


            De: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
            Para: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>; AA-24heures-partages Modérateur <AA-24heures-partages-proprietaire@...>
            Enviado: sábado, 9 de febrero de 2013 1:16
            Asunto: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

             
            yo soy un verdadero milagro de la vida


            De: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
            Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
            Enviado: domingo, 3 de febrero de 2013 22:40
            Asunto: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

             
            I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]

            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
            >
            > I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe around main or lyme arm...will post pics asap....thanks...
            >





          Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.