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Re: leak sealing

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  • mtj2854
    The rubber melts at 750F. The 2 copper pipe fits snugly and about 2 deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection
    Message 1 of 22 , Feb 4, 2013
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      The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
      >
      > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
      >
      > Robert
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: Ricky R.
      > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
      > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
      >
      >
      >  
      > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
      > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
      > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
      > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
      > lol
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > >From: mtj2854
      > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
      > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
      > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
      > >
      > > 
      > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
      > >
      > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
      > >>
      > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
      > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
      > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
      > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
      > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
      > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
      > asap....thanks...
      > >>
      > >
      > >
      > >No virus found in this message.
      > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
      > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
      > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
      > No virus found in this message.
      > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
      > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
      >
    • chris
      The way I understand it is that there should NOT be any pressure in your still.
      Message 2 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
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        The way I understand it is that there should NOT be any pressure in your still.

        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "mtj2854" wrote:
        >
        > The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]
        >
        > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
        > >
        > > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
        > >
        > > Robert
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ________________________________
        > > From: Ricky R.
        > > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
        > > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
        > > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
        > >
        > >
        > >  
        > > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
        > > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
        > > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
        > > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
        > > lol
        > > ----- Original Message -----
        > > >From: mtj2854
        > > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
        > > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
        > > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
        > > >
        > > > 
        > > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
        > > >
        > > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
        > > >>
        > > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
        > > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
        > > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
        > > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
        > > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
        > > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
        > > asap....thanks...
        > > >>
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >No virus found in this message.
        > > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
        > > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
        > > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
        > > No virus found in this message.
        > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
        > > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
        > >
        >
      • michael raphael
        If it leaks out, it leaks in.  Doesn t matter where the pressure is.  Common physics. ________________________________ From: mtj2854 To:
        Message 3 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          If it leaks out, it leaks in.  Doesn't matter where the pressure is.  Common physics.


          From: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
          To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:53 PM
          Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

           
          The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]

          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
          >
          > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
          >
          > Robert
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > ________________________________
          > From: Ricky R.
          > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
          > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
          >
          >
          >  
          > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
          > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
          > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
          > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
          > lol
          > ----- Original Message -----
          > >From: mtj2854
          > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
          > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
          > >
          > > 
          > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
          > >
          > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
          > >>
          > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
          > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
          > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
          > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
          > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
          > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
          > asap....thanks...
          > >>
          > >
          > >
          > >No virus found in this message.
          > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
          > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
          > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
          > No virus found in this message.
          > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
          > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
          >



        • RLB
          My concern with rubber is petroleum based chemicals entering your still via vapor and contaminating your stripping run, thumper tank, and/or worm.  You do
          Message 4 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
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            My concern with rubber is petroleum based chemicals entering your still via vapor and contaminating your stripping run, thumper tank, and/or worm.  You do realize that oil based products are separated by using a reflux still like setup.  If you heat rubber, oil is a by-product.  Just concerned about using rubber anywhere around a still.  Beside rubber, petroleum, and ethanol are flammable.

            Robert



            From: michael raphael <mikeraphael2000@...>
            To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 11:34 AM
            Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

             
            If it leaks out, it leaks in.  Doesn't matter where the pressure is.  Common physics.


            From: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
            To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:53 PM
            Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

             
            The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]

            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
            >
            > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
            >
            > Robert
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ________________________________
            > From: Ricky R.
            > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
            > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
            > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
            >
            >
            >  
            > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
            > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
            > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
            > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
            > lol
            > ----- Original Message -----
            > >From: mtj2854
            > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
            > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
            > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
            > >
            > > 
            > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
            > >
            > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
            > >>
            > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
            > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
            > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
            > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
            > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
            > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
            > asap....thanks...
            > >>
            > >
            > >
            > >No virus found in this message.
            > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
            > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
            > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
            > No virus found in this message.
            > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
            > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
            >





          • Fredrick Lee
            Unless its a laminar leak.... ... Unless its a laminar leak.... On Feb 5, 2013, at 11:34 AM, michael raphael wrote: If it leaks
            Message 5 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              Unless its a laminar leak....

              On Feb 5, 2013, at 11:34 AM, michael raphael <mikeraphael2000@...> wrote:

               

              If it leaks out, it leaks in.  Doesn't matter where the pressure is.  Common physics.


              From: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
              To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:53 PM
              Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

               
              The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]

              --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
              >
              > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
              >
              > Robert
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ________________________________
              > From: Ricky R.
              > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
              > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
              > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
              >
              >
              >  
              > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
              > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
              > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
              > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
              > lol
              > ----- Original Message -----
              > >From: mtj2854
              > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
              > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
              > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
              > >
              > > 
              > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
              > >
              > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
              > >>
              > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
              > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
              > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
              > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
              > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
              > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
              > asap....thanks...
              > >>
              > >
              > >
              > >No virus found in this message.
              > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
              > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
              > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
              > No virus found in this message.
              > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
              > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
              >



            • michael raphael
              In which case it would be intended....  If you were moving a hydroscopic fluid/gas and it leaked to atmosphere, moisture would enter your process.
              Message 6 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                In which case it would be intended....  If you were moving a hydroscopic fluid/gas and it leaked to atmosphere, moisture would enter your process. I don't believe you would find either case in ethanol distillation....


                From: Fredrick Lee <fredrick@...>
                To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 11:43 AM
                Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                 
                Unless its a laminar leak....

                On Feb 5, 2013, at 11:34 AM, michael raphael <mikeraphael2000@...> wrote:

                 
                If it leaks out, it leaks in.  Doesn't matter where the pressure is.  Common physics.


                From: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
                To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:53 PM
                Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                 
                The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]

                --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
                >
                > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
                >
                > Robert
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > ________________________________
                > From: Ricky R.
                > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
                > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                >
                >
                >  
                > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
                > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
                > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
                > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
                > lol
                > ----- Original Message -----
                > >From: mtj2854
                > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
                > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                > >
                > > 
                > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
                > >
                > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
                > >>
                > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
                > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
                > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
                > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
                > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
                > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
                > asap....thanks...
                > >>
                > >
                > >
                > >No virus found in this message.
                > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
                > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
                > No virus found in this message.
                > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
                >





              • RLB
                The surface area of my pot is around 63.68 sq., and my condenser opening is around 0.78 sq.  For this reason steam and ethanol vapor is pushed through
                Message 7 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                  The surface area of my pot is around 63.68" sq., and my condenser opening is around 0.78"sq.  For this reason steam and ethanol vapor is pushed through condenser somehow, aka: pressure.  Its downward slope it would create even more pressure within its cap head.  Granted that pressure is not extremely high, but pressure is pressure.  If a person used a thumper with their pot still, there could be a great deal of pressure build up inside because it would be the only way to push pot still vapors into a thumper.  Using a worm would also cause pressure within a pot still.  Safety first.

                  Robert


                  From: chris <gonagin58@...>
                  To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 10:06 AM
                  Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                   
                  The way I understand it is that there should NOT be any pressure in your still.

                  --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "mtj2854" wrote:
                  >
                  > The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]
                  >
                  > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
                  > >
                  > > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
                  > >
                  > > Robert
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > ________________________________
                  > > From: Ricky R.
                  > > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  > > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
                  > > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >  
                  > > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
                  > > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
                  > > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
                  > > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
                  > > lol
                  > > ----- Original Message -----
                  > > >From: mtj2854
                  > > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                  > > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
                  > > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                  > > >
                  > > > 
                  > > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
                  > > >
                  > > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
                  > > >>
                  > > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
                  > > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
                  > > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
                  > > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
                  > > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
                  > > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
                  > > asap....thanks...
                  > > >>
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >No virus found in this message.
                  > > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                  > > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
                  > > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
                  > > No virus found in this message.
                  > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                  > > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
                  > >
                  >



                • Fredrick Lee
                  Agree completely. ... Agree completely. On Feb 5, 2013, at 1:47 PM, michael raphael wrote: In which case it would be intended....
                  Message 8 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Agree completely. 



                    On Feb 5, 2013, at 1:47 PM, michael raphael <mikeraphael2000@...> wrote:

                     

                    In which case it would be intended....  If you were moving a hydroscopic fluid/gas and it leaked to atmosphere, moisture would enter your process. I don't believe you would find either case in ethanol distillation....


                    From: Fredrick Lee <fredrick@...>
                    To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 11:43 AM
                    Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                     
                    Unless its a laminar leak....

                    On Feb 5, 2013, at 11:34 AM, michael raphael <mikeraphael2000@...> wrote:

                     
                    If it leaks out, it leaks in.  Doesn't matter where the pressure is.  Common physics.


                    From: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
                    To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:53 PM
                    Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                     
                    The rubber melts at 750F. The 2" copper pipe fits snugly and about 2" deep into the copper coupling. Pressure in the still will try to escape OUT the conection so I fail to see how it could ever be in contact with the product. [Rainier distillers has been around for years, and he uses it]

                    --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, RLB wrote:
                    >
                    > At what temp does rubber melt, and at what temp is the oil based chemicals in rubber released?  Rubber is an idea, but not a good one if it poisons you.
                    >
                    > Robert
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > ________________________________
                    > From: Ricky R.
                    > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                    > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 11:50 AM
                    > Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                    >
                    >
                    >  
                    > I have actually saw that before,as a kid and on
                    > much bigger scale,my father used part of a car tube that they wrapped around the
                    > joints and think they used bailing twine to hold it in place or whatever was on
                    > hand..I'm thinking of doing the same with a old bike tube I have on hand
                    > lol
                    > ----- Original Message -----
                    > >From: mtj2854
                    > >To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                    > >Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 8:40 PM
                    > >Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                    > >
                    > > 
                    > >I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]
                    > >
                    > >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
                    > >>
                    > >> I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and
                    > water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the
                    > connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in
                    > the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw
                    > teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe
                    > around main or lyme arm...will post pics
                    > asap....thanks...
                    > >>
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >No virus found in this message.
                    > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                    > >Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
                    > Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
                    > No virus found in this message.
                    > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                    > Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6075 - Release Date: 02/01/13
                    >





                  • o1bigtenor
                    ... wee bit closer to the year 2000 usage? Darald On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:07 PM, ahandyman59 wrote: Apparently Butyl Rubber (the
                    Message 9 of 22 , Feb 5, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment
                      On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:07 PM, ahandyman59 <rdh2059@...> wrote:


                      Apparently Butyl Rubber (the same material in inner tubes) is used in gloves that are highly resistant to ethanol. Getting the exact melting point of butyl rubber is difficult, because with additives, it can be made to melt as low as 90 degrees centigrade. The fully cured stuff like inner tubes is much higher, around 200 degrees centigrade. You may be on to something, but I think I’ll stick with flour paste…;-)

                       


                      Please - - centigrade as a unit was dead in 1948 - - could we please get a wee bit closer to the year 2000 usage?

                      Darald

                    • Nicodeamous
                      If the connections are fairly snug, use teflon tape to seal the gap. If the the connection is so loose that you need a rubber seal, two rubber grades i
                      Message 10 of 22 , Feb 7, 2013
                      • 0 Attachment
                        If the connections are fairly snug, use teflon tape to seal the gap.

                        If the the connection is so loose that you need a rubber seal, two rubber grades i recommend are Silicone and EPDM.

                        The pros of Silicone is that it has excellent heat resistance and are not commonly compounded using sulfur, oil and additives.

                        The cons of silicone is that they can be more fragile than other rubbers and are not especially resistant to ethanol(it may swell a bit, flourosilicone would be better in this respect). Also, some are cured with peroxides that can be a bit 'smelly' when new.

                        Look for seals that are platimum cured and/or are translucent, ( such as many medical grade seals)if you want the 'cleanest' seals.

                        The pros of EPDM is that it is resistant to both water and ethanol, is tougher than silicone, cheaper and generally more common.

                        The cons are that EPDM is often compounded with oils, waxes, sulfur and other additives which can be extracted from the rubber while in contact with the hot vapors of the still.

                        Look for seals that are NSF & UL approved for use with potable water.

                        With all seals, wash them thoroughly and 'bake' them in an oven for an hour or three at 250'F (best to suspend from your baking rack with a thin wire) before use.

                        This will cause many of the additives & oils that may be lurking inside to come out and will not hurt the rubber.

                        You can get an idea of the quality of the seal this way. Cheaper seals will generate more smoke than better quality seals. Many will actually shrink a bit.

                        The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped.

                        Nico
                      • White Bear
                            The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if
                        Message 11 of 22 , Feb 7, 2013
                        • 0 Attachment
                           
                           
                          "The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped."
                           
                          This is what I use for my gaskets although you have to be careful with the amount of pressure you use to tighten the fittings so as not to crush the gasket.  As an added insurence I wrap the joint with a vulcanized rubber product made for leaky pipes.  I am sorry but I don't remember the name of it but it comes in a roll and is a bit sticky so it readily stickes to itself.  Use this to wrap around the outside of the joint.  You don't need much as it stretches quite a lot.
                          White Bear
                           
                           

                          From: Nicodeamous <nicodeamous@...>
                          To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 9:11 AM
                          Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                           
                          If the connections are fairly snug, use teflon tape to seal the gap.

                          If the the connection is so loose that you need a rubber seal, two rubber grades i recommend are Silicone and EPDM.

                          The pros of Silicone is that it has excellent heat resistance and are not commonly compounded using sulfur, oil and additives.

                          The cons of silicone is that they can be more fragile than other rubbers and are not especially resistant to ethanol(it may swell a bit, flourosilicone would be better in this respect). Also, some are cured with peroxides that can be a bit 'smelly' when new.

                          Look for seals that are platimum cured and/or are translucent, ( such as many medical grade seals)if you want the 'cleanest' seals.

                          The pros of EPDM is that it is resistant to both water and ethanol, is tougher than silicone, cheaper and generally more common.

                          The cons are that EPDM is often compounded with oils, waxes, sulfur and other additives which can be extracted from the rubber while in contact with the hot vapors of the still.

                          Look for seals that are NSF & UL approved for use with potable water.

                          With all seals, wash them thoroughly and 'bake' them in an oven for an hour or three at 250'F (best to suspend from your baking rack with a thin wire) before use.

                          This will cause many of the additives & oils that may be lurking inside to come out and will not hurt the rubber.

                          You can get an idea of the quality of the seal this way. Cheaper seals will generate more smoke than better quality seals. Many will actually shrink a bit.

                          The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped.

                          Nico

                        • RLB
                          All these idea are nice, but they are still not better than threads for small pipes.  I love the metal belt that holds my cap to its pot. Robert
                          Message 12 of 22 , Feb 7, 2013
                          • 0 Attachment
                            All these idea are nice, but they are still not better than threads for small pipes.  I love the metal belt that holds my cap to its pot.

                            Robert



                            From: White Bear <sha_man_1@...>
                            To: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 2:13 PM
                            Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                             
                             
                             
                            "The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped."
                             
                            This is what I use for my gaskets although you have to be careful with the amount of pressure you use to tighten the fittings so as not to crush the gasket.  As an added insurence I wrap the joint with a vulcanized rubber product made for leaky pipes.  I am sorry but I don't remember the name of it but it comes in a roll and is a bit sticky so it readily stickes to itself.  Use this to wrap around the outside of the joint.  You don't need much as it stretches quite a lot.
                            White Bear
                             
                             

                            From: Nicodeamous <nicodeamous@...>
                            To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 9:11 AM
                            Subject: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing
                             
                            If the connections are fairly snug, use teflon tape to seal the gap.

                            If the the connection is so loose that you need a rubber seal, two rubber grades i recommend are Silicone and EPDM.

                            The pros of Silicone is that it has excellent heat resistance and are not commonly compounded using sulfur, oil and additives.

                            The cons of silicone is that they can be more fragile than other rubbers and are not especially resistant to ethanol(it may swell a bit, flourosilicone would be better in this respect). Also, some are cured with peroxides that can be a bit 'smelly' when new.

                            Look for seals that are platimum cured and/or are translucent, ( such as many medical grade seals)if you want the 'cleanest' seals.

                            The pros of EPDM is that it is resistant to both water and ethanol, is tougher than silicone, cheaper and generally more common.

                            The cons are that EPDM is often compounded with oils, waxes, sulfur and other additives which can be extracted from the rubber while in contact with the hot vapors of the still.

                            Look for seals that are NSF & UL approved for use with potable water.

                            With all seals, wash them thoroughly and 'bake' them in an oven for an hour or three at 250'F (best to suspend from your baking rack with a thin wire) before use.

                            This will cause many of the additives & oils that may be lurking inside to come out and will not hurt the rubber.

                            You can get an idea of the quality of the seal this way. Cheaper seals will generate more smoke than better quality seals. Many will actually shrink a bit.

                            The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped.

                            Nico



                          • Jim Wannaknow
                            gee what ever happened to good ole flour paste?
                            Message 13 of 22 , Feb 7, 2013
                            • 0 Attachment
                              gee what ever happened to good ole flour paste?

                              On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 9:11 AM, Nicodeamous <nicodeamous@...> wrote:
                               

                              If the connections are fairly snug, use teflon tape to seal the gap.

                              If the the connection is so loose that you need a rubber seal, two rubber grades i recommend are Silicone and EPDM.

                              The pros of Silicone is that it has excellent heat resistance and are not commonly compounded using sulfur, oil and additives.

                              The cons of silicone is that they can be more fragile than other rubbers and are not especially resistant to ethanol(it may swell a bit, flourosilicone would be better in this respect). Also, some are cured with peroxides that can be a bit 'smelly' when new.

                              Look for seals that are platimum cured and/or are translucent, ( such as many medical grade seals)if you want the 'cleanest' seals.

                              The pros of EPDM is that it is resistant to both water and ethanol, is tougher than silicone, cheaper and generally more common.

                              The cons are that EPDM is often compounded with oils, waxes, sulfur and other additives which can be extracted from the rubber while in contact with the hot vapors of the still.

                              Look for seals that are NSF & UL approved for use with potable water.

                              With all seals, wash them thoroughly and 'bake' them in an oven for an hour or three at 250'F (best to suspend from your baking rack with a thin wire) before use.

                              This will cause many of the additives & oils that may be lurking inside to come out and will not hurt the rubber.

                              You can get an idea of the quality of the seal this way. Cheaper seals will generate more smoke than better quality seals. Many will actually shrink a bit.

                              The other option is to make some kind of mold and use an RTV (Room temperature vulcanization) silicone to make the seal. This may be the best option if it is especially large or oddly shaped.

                              Nico


                            • Carlos alberto Sanchez
                              yo soy un verdadero milagro de la vida ________________________________ De: mtj2854 Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com Enviado: domingo,
                              Message 14 of 22 , Feb 8, 2013
                              • 0 Attachment
                                yo soy un verdadero milagro de la vida


                                De: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
                                Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                                Enviado: domingo, 3 de febrero de 2013 22:40
                                Asunto: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                                 
                                I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]

                                --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
                                >
                                > I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe around main or lyme arm...will post pics asap....thanks...
                                >



                              • Carlos alberto Sanchez
                                YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LA VIDA ________________________________ De: Carlos alberto Sanchez Para:
                                Message 15 of 22 , Feb 20, 2013
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  YO SOY UN VERDADERO MILAGRO DE LA VIDA


                                  De: Carlos alberto Sanchez <s_carlosalberto@...>
                                  Para: "new_distillers@yahoogroups.com" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>; AA-24heures-partages Modérateur <AA-24heures-partages-proprietaire@...>
                                  Enviado: sábado, 9 de febrero de 2013 1:16
                                  Asunto: Re: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                                   
                                  yo soy un verdadero milagro de la vida


                                  De: mtj2854 <mtj2854@...>
                                  Para: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                                  Enviado: domingo, 3 de febrero de 2013 22:40
                                  Asunto: [new_distillers] Re: leak sealing

                                   
                                  I've got a 2" bocobob and where the tubes insert I use pieces of bicycle inertube. It's a bitch to stretch into place but after its there you can fold/roll it back to disassemble. I've never had a leak. [I use about 4" sections of inertube]

                                  --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ricky R." wrote:
                                  >
                                  > I know to seal leaks I can use a flour and water mix but I saw a few pot stills that used some kinda wrap on the connections,just wondering what it was and how well it worked..mine will be in the house so aside from permanent soldering what can I use...think I saw teflon tape wont hold,have 2 brass connections,around thermometer,and maybe around main or lyme arm...will post pics asap....thanks...
                                  >





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