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Re: [new_distillers] More silly questions

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  • Bill Rogers
    having read the same book and making the same still, this is what i ended up using. the trick (for me) was to search for vintage pyrex coffee pot
    Message 1 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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      having read the same book and making the same still, this is what i ended up using.  the trick (for me) was to search for "vintage pyrex coffee pot"


      you can get the rest of the copper at your local home store.  finding the cork will give you troubles.  try a local home brew.  if not, try grainger.



      On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 11:53 AM, damionpseudonym <bloodpuddle@...> wrote:
       

      (The last raft of answers-to-questions was super helpful, thank you a bunch...here's a few more...)

      1: I'm diligently following the steps in Z-Bob's book (which is a startlingly good read), trying to build my own mini-tester still before I sink a pile of cash into a full blown potstill. Copper, tubes, benders, pumps, all of that are no problem, but I am having a devil of a time finding a pyrex coffee pot, suitable for boiling in. Everything I'm finding both in shops and online all read "DO NOT BOIL LIQUIDS IN THIS", in big scary letters. Is this just boilerplate (ha ha....puns are awesome) safety text? Or is the requirement for pyrex an absolute? I found one that says it's a stove top coffee pot, but it also says "remove from heat the minute boiling starts", so, I am unsure (due to inexperience).

      And as an aside, I'm just about ready to start torching the glut of cartridge based coffee machines I keep having to wade through. Abominations that they are.

      2: the sportsball term and other selection process term called "making the cut", is it really derived from this hobby? If so, cool.

      Thanks
      -=DPseudo


    • Damion Pseudonym
      Kickass, thanks to ya both. ... -- ... I will not engage in meta-discussions in my sig line. Usually.
      Message 2 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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        Kickass, thanks to ya both.

        On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 1:05 PM, Bill Rogers <bill.rogers@...> wrote:
         

        having read the same book and making the same still, this is what i ended up using.  the trick (for me) was to search for "vintage pyrex coffee pot"


        you can get the rest of the copper at your local home store.  finding the cork will give you troubles.  try a local home brew.  if not, try grainger.



        On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 11:53 AM, damionpseudonym <bloodpuddle@...> wrote:
         

        (The last raft of answers-to-questions was super helpful, thank you a bunch...here's a few more...)

        1: I'm diligently following the steps in Z-Bob's book (which is a startlingly good read), trying to build my own mini-tester still before I sink a pile of cash into a full blown potstill. Copper, tubes, benders, pumps, all of that are no problem, but I am having a devil of a time finding a pyrex coffee pot, suitable for boiling in. Everything I'm finding both in shops and online all read "DO NOT BOIL LIQUIDS IN THIS", in big scary letters. Is this just boilerplate (ha ha....puns are awesome) safety text? Or is the requirement for pyrex an absolute? I found one that says it's a stove top coffee pot, but it also says "remove from heat the minute boiling starts", so, I am unsure (due to inexperience).

        And as an aside, I'm just about ready to start torching the glut of cartridge based coffee machines I keep having to wade through. Abominations that they are.

        2: the sportsball term and other selection process term called "making the cut", is it really derived from this hobby? If so, cool.

        Thanks
        -=DPseudo





        --
        ---------------------------------------------------------------
        I will not engage in meta-discussions in my sig line. Usually.
      • tgfoitwoods
        Thanks Bill, for finding that workaround and passing it in to us. I never figured a variety of corks would be a problem, as my neighborhood hardware stores all
        Message 3 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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          Thanks Bill, for finding that workaround and passing it in to us. I never figured a variety of corks would be a problem, as my neighborhood hardware stores all have a great selection. While you were at you local homebrew shop, did you see the Erlenmeyer flasks?

          Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits


          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Bill Rogers wrote:
          >
          > having read the same book and making the same still, this is what i ended
          > up using. the trick (for me) was to search for "vintage pyrex coffee pot"
          >
          > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pyrex-Coffee-8-Cup-Glass-Carafe-Decanter-Pot-Gold-Stripe-/261014725519?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc5b0a38f
          >
          > you can get the rest of the copper at your local home store. finding the
          > cork will give you troubles. try a local home brew. if not, try grainger.
          >
          >
          >
          > On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 11:53 AM, damionpseudonym wrote:
          >
          > > **
          > >
          > >
          > > (The last raft of answers-to-questions was super helpful, thank you a
          > > bunch...here's a few more...)
          > >
          > > 1: I'm diligently following the steps in Z-Bob's book (which is a
          > > startlingly good read), trying to build my own mini-tester still before I
          > > sink a pile of cash into a full blown potstill. Copper, tubes, benders,
          > > pumps, all of that are no problem, but I am having a devil of a time
          > > finding a pyrex coffee pot, suitable for boiling in. Everything I'm finding
          > > both in shops and online all read "DO NOT BOIL LIQUIDS IN THIS", in big
          > > scary letters. Is this just boilerplate (ha ha....puns are awesome) safety
          > > text? Or is the requirement for pyrex an absolute? I found one that says
          > > it's a stove top coffee pot, but it also says "remove from heat the minute
          > > boiling starts", so, I am unsure (due to inexperience).
          > >
          > > And as an aside, I'm just about ready to start torching the glut of
          > > cartridge based coffee machines I keep having to wade through. Abominations
          > > that they are.
          > >
          > > 2: the sportsball term and other selection process term called "making the
          > > cut", is it really derived from this hobby? If so, cool.
          > >
          > > Thanks
          > > -=DPseudo
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
        • Robert P
          Hello, I use 2 and 5 liter Erlenmeyer flasks in homebrewing to make yeast starters, the one difficulty I have with them is they boil over in about 2 seconds
          Message 4 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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            Hello, I use 2 and 5 liter Erlenmeyer flasks in homebrewing to make yeast starters, the one difficulty I have with them is they boil over in about 2 seconds during a vigorous hot break. Is there anything similar to that hot break (coagulation of proteins) that occurs while distilling? I ask because I'm in the same position as the OP and was about to try the 2L flask when I saw these helpful posts. I found a cork at widgetco.com. I suspect with the 5L flask you'd have to change the length of the copper tubing so the end wouldn't drip onto the flask itself.

            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tgfoitwoods" wrote:

            > Just thinking about it, though, I have a better solution, although
            > you'd have to buy it new. Most homebrew-supply stores carry pyrex
            > Erlenmeyer flasks. Here's a choice from my favorite homebrew supply:
            > http://store.homebrewheaven.com/erlenmeyer-flasks-250-500-1000-2000-5000\
            > -ml-p1574.aspx
            > Note they are avaialble from 250ml to 5 liters, from about 6 bucks to
            > 19. I'd guess the 2-liter size would work best with the "teaching"
            > still, and they'd be harder to tip over.
            >
          • Blackhat-Whitedog
            lets keep in mind that the boiling point of water is higher than the BP of ethenol and there is a term for combination of the two liquids that escapes me
            Message 5 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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              lets keep in mind that the boiling point of water is higher than the BP of ethenol and there is a term for combination of the two liquids that escapes me now.   the point is, consumer level coffee makers brew at 150-160' and commercial coffee makers are 180-190 and even higher (remember that famous case of McDonalds being sued for burns some old lady got from spilling her coffee?  the real story was horrible and caused by a coffee maker fudged to make boiling hot liquid...oops off topic.

               a pyrex glass pot should be ok to use as we are not boiling water at 212 but a combined liquid in the 170's 180's.
            • RLB
              Sorry, I disagree.  You need to be able to reach at least 210 F if you intend to strip as much alcohol as possible from your wash. Robert
              Message 6 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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                Sorry, I disagree.  You need to be able to reach at least 210 F if you intend to strip as much alcohol as possible from your wash.

                Robert



                From: Blackhat-Whitedog <blkhatwhtdog@...>
                To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 6:05 PM
                Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: More silly questions

                 
                lets keep in mind that the boiling point of water is higher than the BP of ethenol and there is a term for combination of the two liquids that escapes me now.   the point is, consumer level coffee makers brew at 150-160' and commercial coffee makers are 180-190 and even higher (remember that famous case of McDonalds being sued for burns some old lady got from spilling her coffee?  the real story was horrible and caused by a coffee maker fudged to make boiling hot liquid...oops off topic.

                 a pyrex glass pot should be ok to use as we are not boiling water at 212 but a combined liquid in the 170's 180's.


              • jeffkimblelv
                Pyrex is hard to find these days. You don t need it though. The advantage is that it can go from hot to cold without exploding/cracking Also, your wash isn t
                Message 7 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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                  Pyrex is hard to find these days. You don't need it though. The advantage is that it can go from hot to cold without exploding/cracking


                  Also, your wash isn't boiling at 212F, instead at some lower temp based on the concentration of alcohol in the wash. The ' do not boil' is for the lawyers


                  According to chemists, alcohol IS a solution


                  --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "damionpseudonym" wrote:
                  >
                  > (The last raft of answers-to-questions was super helpful, thank you a bunch...here's a few more...)
                  >
                  > 1: I'm diligently following the steps in Z-Bob's book (which is a startlingly good read), trying to build my own mini-tester still before I sink a pile of cash into a full blown potstill. Copper, tubes, benders, pumps, all of that are no problem, but I am having a devil of a time finding a pyrex coffee pot, suitable for boiling in. Everything I'm finding both in shops and online all read "DO NOT BOIL LIQUIDS IN THIS", in big scary letters. Is this just boilerplate (ha ha....puns are awesome) safety text? Or is the requirement for pyrex an absolute? I found one that says it's a stove top coffee pot, but it also says "remove from heat the minute boiling starts", so, I am unsure (due to inexperience).
                  >
                  > And as an aside, I'm just about ready to start torching the glut of cartridge based coffee machines I keep having to wade through. Abominations that they are.
                  >
                  > 2: the sportsball term and other selection process term called "making the cut", is it really derived from this hobby? If so, cool.
                  >
                  > Thanks
                  > -=DPseudo
                  >
                • tgfoitwoods
                  There are some washes that are notorious foamers that can give the same boil over as a hotbreak. Molasses washes for rum are a great (or bad) example.
                  Message 8 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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                    There are some washes that are notorious "foamers" that can give the same boil over as a hotbreak. Molasses washes for rum are a great (or bad) example. Allgrain whiskey washes are another, a real protein hot break. Sugar washes and wines are usually very calm at boilup. This is also true of bringing a full-sized still to a boil. With really bad boilers, some stillers add anti-foaming agents, like butter of simethicone. Others are just very cautious bringing the wash to a boil.

                    I think the 2L Erlenmeyers will work fine. I was probably overly enthusiastic when I suggested the 5L flask, for the reason you mention.

                    Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits

                    --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Robert P" wrote:
                    >
                    > Hello, I use 2 and 5 liter Erlenmeyer flasks in homebrewing to make yeast starters, the one difficulty I have with them is they boil over in about 2 seconds during a vigorous hot break. Is there anything similar to that hot break (coagulation of proteins) that occurs while distilling? I ask because I'm in the same position as the OP and was about to try the 2L flask when I saw these helpful posts. I found a cork at widgetco.com. I suspect with the 5L flask you'd have to change the length of the copper tubing so the end wouldn't drip onto the flask itself.
                    >
                    ----snip----
                  • tgfoitwoods
                    I ll admit to being confused by the caution over boiling water (or aqueous solutions) in Pyrex (borosilicate) glass. A a chemistry major, I spend hours boiling
                    Message 9 of 15 , Jan 11, 2013
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                      I'll admit to being confused by the caution over boiling water (or aqueous solutions) in Pyrex (borosilicate) glass. A a chemistry major, I spend hours boiling aqueous solutions over open flames. Who knew I was taking my life in my hands?

                      Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits

                      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jeffkimblelv" wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      > Pyrex is hard to find these days. You don't need it though. The advantage is that it can go from hot to cold without exploding/cracking
                      >
                      >
                      > Also, your wash isn't boiling at 212F, instead at some lower temp based on the concentration of alcohol in the wash. The ' do not boil' is for the lawyers
                      >
                      >
                      > According to chemists, alcohol IS a solution
                      >
                      >
                      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "damionpseudonym" wrote:
                      > >
                      > > (The last raft of answers-to-questions was super helpful, thank you a bunch...here's a few more...)
                      > >
                      > > 1: I'm diligently following the steps in Z-Bob's book (which is a startlingly good read), trying to build my own mini-tester still before I sink a pile of cash into a full blown potstill. Copper, tubes, benders, pumps, all of that are no problem, but I am having a devil of a time finding a pyrex coffee pot, suitable for boiling in. Everything I'm finding both in shops and online all read "DO NOT BOIL LIQUIDS IN THIS", in big scary letters. Is this just boilerplate (ha ha....puns are awesome) safety text? Or is the requirement for pyrex an absolute? I found one that says it's a stove top coffee pot, but it also says "remove from heat the minute boiling starts", so, I am unsure (due to inexperience).
                      > >
                      > > And as an aside, I'm just about ready to start torching the glut of cartridge based coffee machines I keep having to wade through. Abominations that they are.
                      > >
                      > > 2: the sportsball term and other selection process term called "making the cut", is it really derived from this hobby? If so, cool.
                      > >
                      > > Thanks
                      > > -=DPseudo
                      > >
                      >
                    • dhaynes42@comcast.net
                      Guys: I have just finished a mash of black beards rum and I am getting a hydram reading of 60 to get it to 90 do I add water or more brown suger. Don// ...
                      Message 10 of 15 , Jan 12, 2013
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                        Guys:

                        I have just finished a mash of black beards rum and I am getting a hydram reading of 60 to get it to 90 do I add water or more brown suger.

                        Don//


                        From: "jeffkimblelv" <jeff@...>
                        To: "new distillers" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
                        Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 6:54:16 PM
                        Subject: [new_distillers] Re: More silly questions

                         


                        Pyrex is hard to find these days. You don't need it though. The advantage is that it can go from hot to cold without exploding/cracking

                        Also, your wash isn't boiling at 212F, instead at some lower temp based on the concentration of alcohol in the wash. The ' do not boil' is for the lawyers

                        According to chemists, alcohol IS a solution

                        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "damionpseudonym" wrote:
                        >
                        > (The last raft of answers-to-questions was super helpful, thank you a bunch...here's a few more...)
                        >
                        > 1: I'm diligently following the steps in Z-Bob's book (which is a startlingly good read), trying to build my own mini-tester still before I sink a pile of cash into a full blown potstill. Copper, tubes, benders, pumps, all of that are no problem, but I am having a devil of a time finding a pyrex coffee pot, suitable for boiling in. Everything I'm finding both in shops and online all read "DO NOT BOIL LIQUIDS IN THIS", in big scary letters. Is this just boilerplate (ha ha....puns are awesome) safety text? Or is the requirement for pyrex an absolute? I found one that says it's a stove top coffee pot, but it also says "remove from heat the minute boiling starts", so, I am unsure (due to inexperience).
                        >
                        > And as an aside, I'm just about ready to start torching the glut of cartridge based coffee machines I keep having to wade through. Abominations that they are.
                        >
                        > 2: the sportsball term and other selection process term called "making the cut", is it really derived from this hobby? If so, cool.
                        >
                        > Thanks
                        > -=DPseudo
                        >

                      • tgfoitwoods
                        Don, If I m reading this correctly, you read a specific gravity of 1.060 and you want to get a specific gravity of 1.090. You need to add more sugar. Zymurgy
                        Message 11 of 15 , Jan 12, 2013
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                          Don,

                          If I'm reading this correctly, you read a specific gravity of 1.060 and you want to get a specific gravity of 1.090. You need to add more sugar.

                          Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits

                          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, dhaynes42@... wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Guys:
                          >
                          > I have just finished a mash of black beards rum and I am getting a hydram reading of 60 to get it to 90 do I add water or more brown suger.
                          >
                          > Don//
                          >
                          >
                          ----snip----
                        • dhaynes42@comcast.net
                          Bob: what i did was 12 lbs of brown suger and one qt of honey heated approx 6 gal water to 120 deg and mixed in the suger and honey. I let it cool to about 80
                          Message 12 of 15 , Jan 13, 2013
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                            Bob:

                            what i did was 12 lbs of brown suger and one qt of honey heated approx 6 gal water to 120 deg and mixed in the suger and honey. I let it cool to about 80 deg and took a reading and got 1.60. since I am a novice and the instruction said that it should be 90 but no more than 100 I was unsure how to get to that number. What I did was added more water to the mix and then added turbo yeast. this morning it appears to be doing good with good bubbles coming out of the air lock.

                            any advice would be welcome.

                            Don


                            From: "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...>
                            To: "new distillers" <new_distillers@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2013 12:36:30 AM
                            Subject: [new_distillers] Re: More silly questions

                             

                            Don,

                            If I'm reading this correctly, you read a specific gravity of 1.060 and you want to get a specific gravity of 1.090. You need to add more sugar.

                            Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits

                            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, dhaynes42@... wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > Guys:
                            >
                            > I have just finished a mash of black beards rum and I am getting a hydram reading of 60 to get it to 90 do I add water or more brown suger.
                            >
                            > Don//
                            >
                            >
                            ----snip----

                          • tgfoitwoods
                            Doing a little bit of guessing at the final volume and amount of sugar in the honey, I m going to say that would be 13 pounds of sugar in 7 gallons of
                            Message 13 of 15 , Jan 13, 2013
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                              Doing a little bit of guessing at the final volume and amount of sugar in the honey, I'm going to say that would be 13 pounds of sugar in 7 gallons of solution, which should be a specific gravity of about 1.085, pretty close to 1.090.

                              You're in the ballpark.

                              Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits

                              --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, dhaynes42@... wrote:
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > Bob:
                              >
                              > what i did was 12 lbs of brown suger and one qt of honey heated approx 6 gal water to 120 deg and mixed in the suger and honey. I let it cool to about 80 deg and took a reading and got 1.60. since I am a novice and the instruction said that it should be 90 but no more than 100 I was unsure how to get to that number. What I did was added more water to the mix and then added turbo yeast. this morning it appears to be doing good with good bubbles coming out of the air lock.
                              >
                              > any advice would be welcome.
                              >
                              > Don
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > ----- Original Message -----
                              >
                              >
                              > From: "tgfoitwoods"
                              > To: "new distillers"
                              > Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2013 12:36:30 AM
                              > Subject: [new_distillers] Re: More silly questions
                              >
                              >  
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > Don,
                              >
                              > If I'm reading this correctly, you read a specific gravity of 1.060 and you want to get a specific gravity of 1.090. You need to add more sugar.
                              >
                              > Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller Making Fine Spirits
                              >
                              > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, dhaynes42@ wrote:
                              > >
                              > >
                              > >
                              > > Guys:
                              > >
                              > > I have just finished a mash of black beards rum and I am getting a hydram reading of 60 to get it to 90 do I add water or more brown suger.
                              > >
                              > > Don//
                              > >
                              > >
                              > ----snip----
                              >
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