Re: High Flavor Still (Maybe?)
The Lyne arm was made from a section of sheet copper. I cut a triangle about 7" wide at one end and 2 1/2" wide at the other end, with a length of 36" (the dimensions are approximate - I don't have my sketch in-hand). Just dimension according to the amount of seam lap you want plus the circumference of the resulting diameter you require at each end. Both ends were then trimmed perpendicular to the long axis of the piece. I divided each end into twelve equal-width devisions. I drew a lines down the length and connected the twelve corresponding points. I used the lines as a guide and clamped a piece of oak board along one line at a time, starting at one edge and started to bend the cone using a small piece of oak board and a hammer. When I got to the last line (along the opposite edge form the starting edge), I continued to bend by hand until the cone was completed. I lapped the edges of the cone to form a joint along the entire length. I held the cone at several places along its length with screw clamps (like the type used for a radiator hose) and then soldered the seam. I took a piece of rigid 3/8" pipe, put one end in a vice, slipped the cone over the pipe, supported the off-board end of the pipe on a stiff-leg and proceeded to tap the cone into more uniform shape; again using the small piece of oak board an hammer. It was not an easy task but I am pleased with the outcome.
All of the connections are made from copper. The tapered rims (flanges) are made from hammered copper wire. I hammered the wire to a tapered cross section, formed the tapered wire around a piece of rigid pipe and finally fitted it to the copper pipe. I placed the ring on the outside of the copper pipe, held it in place with an adjustable screw-clamp (like the clamp described above) and then I soldered the ring in place. The reason the rings don't look "hammered" is because they were trued up quite a bit as I am fortunate to have a 10" metal lathe. After soldering, I removed the clamp and turned (machined) the whole section on my lathe.
If you look closely, you will notice that at both the Keg Head connection and at the Lyne Arm connection there is a short section of copper that is of a smaller outside diameter than that of the main pipe. I made that piece by rolling a short section of sheet copper into a cylinder, soldered it together down its length and slipped it into the pipe and soldered it into place AFTER replacing the screw-clamp over the machined copper ring. While soldering the rolled piece into the mating copper pipe, I held the rolled piece together with a second screw-clamp. The short, small diameter piece will, at the keg connection, slip into the Sankey Keg fitting for proper alignment and gasket placement and at the Lyne Arm connection it will slip into the Lyne arm for proper alignment and gasket placement at that joint; plus, it allows the joint to stay in alignment as it swivels.
I hope my explanation was clear enough. If I need to provide more details, please let me know.
--- In email@example.com, "novaflux00" <novaflux00@...> wrote:
> Tom, I was wondering if you could tell me how you made your Lyne arm? Then your procedure for making your quick connections? I have done some copper work before. Your design is beautiful.
> Thank you,