I was going to use aquarium silicone at one time, but when I checked
what was available locally, I noted that it said "not food grade" or
something to that effect, and this gave me pause.
If memory serves, some people have had good results with it, others have
not--I'd suggest searching "aquarium" and "silicone" on the message
archive, since the topic has been discussed many times, and come to your
best conclusion on that basis. Could be there are some variables
involved in local products.
I'd like to acknowledge Jamesonbeam publically btw--I approached him
off-list about this before posting, to ensure I'd not come across as
just wanting to contradict, and he encouraged me to post a reply.
Let me say that it's precisely the spirit of co-operation that exists
among members of this list that makes it such a valuable asset. We don't
always come to the same conclusions, but we get along, and the hobby is
always advanced as a consequence.
With best wishes to all,
> HI Robbo,
> Welcome aboard, and sorry been away for a few days.
> Aquarium silicone is a fine inert sealant for your lid and is ethanol
> resistant. Fishies are very particular about what leaks into their
> environment. This is fine - as a matter o fact, Trid, one of our
> moderators just posted a good method for creating such a seal- see
> below. See also the thread on Pot seals from a few weeks ago.
> Vino es Veritas,
> Jim aka Waldo.
> *Trid's quick-n-dirty pot gasket method:
> 1) Acquire your silicone of choice. Personally, I'm ok with acetic cure
> silicone (GE Silicone I, for example) but if you're not happy or
> with that, go the extra mile for "neutral cure" aquarium silicone. I
> don't have
> any experience with other "gasket in a tube" products, so YMMV if you're
> experimenting with something other than silicone.
> 2) On a flat surface at *least* as big as your pot lid, lay out some
> wrap/cling film/wax paper to cover an area slightly larger than your
> pot lid.
> It probably goes without saying, but overlap your sheets as opposed to
> the edges together.
> 3) Make sure the surface of the lid's rim (where the gasket will be
> applied) is
> clean and dust/oil free.
> 4) Apply a bead of your gasket goop to the rim of your lid. It doesn't
> have to
> be pretty, but it does have to make a complete ring.
> 5) Take your freshly gooped up lid and set it, goop side down, on to
> the surface
> you covered in step 2 and squish it down until you see the goop emerge
> from the
> edge...all the way around. You can wipe away any big globs.
> 6) Walk away. Don't come back to it for at least a day.
> 7) If a day hasn't passed, refer back to 6.
> 8) Unless it's a gasket material that specifically calls for a curing
> time of >
> 24 hours, go ahead and pick your lid up, peel off the plastic/wax
> paper, and
> inspect your new seal. You might find bubbles or voids where there
> should be
> gasket material but isn't. You might also find spots where the gasket is a
> little too narrow to make good contact with the boiler. Fill any holes
> with a
> small dollop of goop and then repeat steps 2 through 6 once more to
> give your
> seal a bit more thickness and to fill in any gaps or narrow spots.
> 9) When you're satisfied with the width and thickness of your seal,
> wait another
> day or ten for it to cure more thoroughly (or more if the label info
> on your
> gasket material says so).
> 10) Before you trim away any excess material, make sure it makes complete
> contact with the rim of your boiler.
> 11) Do a water run to check for leaks (plus a little heat will
> contribute to the
> curing of the goop).
> -I'm going on 5+ years with my seal applied using this method.
> *--- In email@example.com, "j0hnr0bb0" <robbojohn@...> wrote:
> > Hi Group
> > look for a silicone to seal my lid on my boiler ,i'm based in the UK
> > can anybody tell me if this one on ebay is safe ?
> > Thank you
> > R0bb0