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Re: Nasty Taste!

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  • rye_junkie1
    ... Cork never worked for me either. Had similar issues to yours R. Sink strainer: get rid of the JB weld and get a oring from a hydraulic shop. Buna or
    Message 1 of 19 , Jul 1, 2009
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      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Rasputin Paracelsus <rasputin@...> wrote:
      >
      > Never worked for me... Not a great seal, and shrank when I removed it.
      > (Might not have if I had let it cool first, don't know. But didn't feel
      > like trying it again as it didn't work well.)
      >
      > And I gather from an earlier round of discussions on this topic that
      > that is not an uncommon experience. Glad it worked for you, though!
      >
      > R


      Cork never worked for me either. Had similar issues to yours R.

      Sink strainer: get rid of the JB weld and get a oring from a hydraulic shop. Buna or Silicone Put the oring between the strainer and the underside of the lid. If the hole you cut for the strainer is pretty precise then I would also try wrapping the hell out of the strainer with Teflon tape where it contacts the boiler lid. The lid I have that uses a strainer I machined and precisely to the middle of the curve at the flange. It doesnt require a separate seal.
      Lid to boiler seal: Flour and water paste or if you are in Aus or new zealand pick up some of that sealys stuff Harry talks about. Good luck finding Neutral cure here in the US. My fastenal Rep is a White lightning silicone distributor and he couldnt get his hands on the right stuff. Aquarium sealant is an acetic cure. Use at your own risk. I'll save mine for the fish.

      Mason
    • KM Services
      I have just put together a PDF of how I attach my columns to the boiler using a flange set up and with my new pot come stripping column it is all screw
      Message 2 of 19 , Jul 1, 2009
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        I have just put together a PDF of how I attach my columns to the boiler using a flange set up and with my new pot come stripping column it is all screw together (with thread tape) with SS male and female couplings welded to the flange and column so the new column can be added to without wrecking it. At the base of my columns I place a copper perforated plate primarily to retain my scrubbers on the Reflux column but also to attract the sulphide in the washes and also adds some reflux. (Look under Files Ken Mc Cold Tip)  

         

        cheers  Ken Mc

        Moderator :  Y! new_distillers    Y! Distillers

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        From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of rye_junkie1
        Sent: Thursday, 2 July 2009 1:10 p.m.
        To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Nasty Taste!

         

        R

        Cork never worked for me either. Had similar issues to yours R.

        Sink strainer: get rid of the JB weld and get a oring from a hydraulic shop. Buna or Silicone Put the oring between the strainer and the underside of the lid. If the hole you cut for the strainer is pretty precise then I would also try wrapping the hell out of the strainer with Teflon tape where it contacts the boiler lid. The lid I have that uses a strainer I machined and precisely to the middle of the curve at the flange. It doesnt require a separate seal.
        Lid to boiler seal: Flour and water paste or if you are in Aus or new zealand pick up some of that sealys stuff Harry talks about. Good luck finding Neutral cure here in the US . My fastenal Rep is a White lightning silicone distributor and he couldnt get his hands on the right stuff. Aquarium sealant is an acetic cure. Use at your own risk. I'll save mine for the fish.

        Mason

      • Rasputin Paracelsus
        Mason, It s a small consolation to me that you couldn t get the proper silicone from Fastenal, I couldn t either :( There are those silicone baking sheets,
        Message 3 of 19 , Jul 1, 2009
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          Mason,

          It's a small consolation to me that you couldn't get the proper silicone
          from Fastenal, I couldn't either :(

          There are those silicone baking sheets, though. A mite more money, but
          I'm seriously thinking about getting one.

          R

          rye_junkie1 wrote:
          > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Rasputin Paracelsus <rasputin@...> wrote:
          >
          >> Never worked for me... Not a great seal, and shrank when I removed it.
          >> (Might not have if I had let it cool first, don't know. But didn't feel
          >> like trying it again as it didn't work well.)
          >>
          >> And I gather from an earlier round of discussions on this topic that
          >> that is not an uncommon experience. Glad it worked for you, though!
          >>
          >> R
          >>
          >
          >
          > Cork never worked for me either. Had similar issues to yours R.
          >
          > Sink strainer: get rid of the JB weld and get a oring from a hydraulic shop. Buna or Silicone Put the oring between the strainer and the underside of the lid. If the hole you cut for the strainer is pretty precise then I would also try wrapping the hell out of the strainer with Teflon tape where it contacts the boiler lid. The lid I have that uses a strainer I machined and precisely to the middle of the curve at the flange. It doesnt require a separate seal.
          > Lid to boiler seal: Flour and water paste or if you are in Aus or new zealand pick up some of that sealys stuff Harry talks about. Good luck finding Neutral cure here in the US. My fastenal Rep is a White lightning silicone distributor and he couldnt get his hands on the right stuff. Aquarium sealant is an acetic cure. Use at your own risk. I'll save mine for the fish.
          >
          > Mason
        • wyobrunson
          ... OK, Guys, you ve given me some stuff to chew on. geuss I ll dismantle and try some of your suggestions. meanwhile Ive got that cheesy little pressure
          Message 4 of 19 , Jul 1, 2009
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            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Rasputin Paracelsus <rasputin@...> wrote:
            >
            > Mason,
            >
            > It's a small consolation to me that you couldn't get the proper silicone
            > from Fastenal, I couldn't either :(
            >
            > There are those silicone baking sheets, though. A mite more money, but
            > I'm seriously thinking about getting one.
            >
            > R
            >
            > rye_junkie1 wrote:
            > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Rasputin Paracelsus <rasputin@> wrote:
            > >
            > >> Never worked for me... Not a great seal, and shrank when I removed it.
            > >> (Might not have if I had let it cool first, don't know. But didn't feel
            > >> like trying it again as it didn't work well.)
            > >>
            > >> And I gather from an earlier round of discussions on this topic that
            > >> that is not an uncommon experience. Glad it worked for you, though!
            > >>
            > >> R
            > >>
            > >
            > >
            > > Cork never worked for me either. Had similar issues to yours R.
            > >
            > > Sink strainer: get rid of the JB weld and get a oring from a hydraulic shop. Buna or Silicone Put the oring between the strainer and the underside of the lid. If the hole you cut for the strainer is pretty precise then I would also try wrapping the hell out of the strainer with Teflon tape where it contacts the boiler lid. The lid I have that uses a strainer I machined and precisely to the middle of the curve at the flange. It doesnt require a separate seal.
            > > Lid to boiler seal: Flour and water paste or if you are in Aus or new zealand pick up some of that sealys stuff Harry talks about. Good luck finding Neutral cure here in the US. My fastenal Rep is a White lightning silicone distributor and he couldnt get his hands on the right stuff. Aquarium sealant is an acetic cure. Use at your own risk. I'll save mine for the fish.
            > >
            > > Mason
            >

            OK, Guys, you've given me some stuff to chew on. geuss I'll
            dismantle and try some of your suggestions. meanwhile Ive got
            that cheesy little pressure cooker to fall back on, 1 pint an
            hour on a 5-gallon run should keep me off the streets for a while.
            couple thoughts though. can you weld stainless to stainless?
            whithout destroying the stainless properties? where can you
            purchase non-acetic silicone? wait! I think I saw that on a post
            here a couple a months back! bet with a little time I could find
            it again. Like the cork idea. did'nt think of that one. never heard
            of white lightning (the Distributor, familiar with the other) thanks
            for your time and quik answers. you guys are the shiznit! THNX!
          • Trid
            ... OK, I m going to be the contrarian on this one. I ve used acetic cure silicone for years now and there has never been an off taste contributed by it.
            Message 5 of 19 , Jul 2, 2009
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              --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "wyobrunson" <wyobrunson@...> wrote:

              > OK, Guys, you've given me some stuff to chew on. geuss I'll
              > dismantle and try some of your suggestions. meanwhile Ive got
              > that cheesy little pressure cooker to fall back on, 1 pint an
              > hour on a 5-gallon run should keep me off the streets for a while.
              > couple thoughts though. can you weld stainless to stainless?
              > whithout destroying the stainless properties? where can you
              > purchase non-acetic silicone? wait! I think I saw that on a post
              > here a couple a months back! bet with a little time I could find
              > it again. Like the cork idea. did'nt think of that one. never heard
              > of white lightning (the Distributor, familiar with the other) thanks
              > for your time and quik answers. you guys are the shiznit! THNX!

              OK, I'm going to be the contrarian on this one. I've used acetic cure silicone for years now and there has never been an off taste contributed by it. It's the plain-jane GE silicone (clear) from the hardware store. I use it for the head gasket (about 1/4" thick all around) and to treat the flange threads internally where I mount the column. It's a galvanized flange, and I sure as heck don't want vapor contact with the galvanized portion. In other words, I have an appreciable amount of silicone in the vapor path with no ill effect on taste.
              Not that I have any answers towards what *is* causing the off flavors, but I'm disinclined to finger the silicone seal for it. As Jim swears by his JB weld, I'm not so quick to blame that, either.

              Trid
            • rye_junkie1
              ... couple thoughts though. can you weld stainless to stainless? ... SS to SS welds are made everyday. Be very careful when welding things like sink strainers
              Message 6 of 19 , Jul 2, 2009
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                --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "wyobrunson" <wyobrunson@...> wrote:

                > OK, Guys, you've given me some stuff to chew on.
                couple thoughts though. can you weld stainless to stainless?
                > whithout destroying the stainless properties? where can you
                > purchase non-acetic silicone? wait! I think I saw that on a post
                > here a couple a months back! bet with a little time I could find
                > it again. Like the cork idea. did'nt think of that one. never heard
                > of white lightning (the Distributor, familiar with the other) thanks
                > for your time and quik answers. you guys are the shiznit! THNX!
                >

                SS to SS welds are made everyday. Be very careful when welding things like sink strainers to lids. I consider myself a pretty good welder and I ruined a SS lid I was welding a Strainer to. Warped the Hell out of it. The thing looked like a damn cowboy hat when it cooled. Silver BRAZE is the way to go for joints like that. For this hobby anyway.
                Yea, we talked extensively a couple months ago about silicone sealants and where to get them in the US. There are a few brands out there that advertise "neutral cure", but try actually putting your hands on a tube.
                I got connections when it comes to industrial stuff and nobody seems to be able to get the mits on it. Most have never even heard of the stuff. You find it, let us know.

                Mason
                I just had an epiphany.
                Now why didnt I think of my Aussie connection before.
              • jamesonbeam1
                Hey Wy, While even the Nixon s in The Compleat Distiller say aquarium silicone is ok for seals, they also say you need RTV (room temp vulcanizing) which is
                Message 7 of 19 , Jul 2, 2009
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                  Hey Wy,

                  While even the Nixon's in "The Compleat Distiller" say aquarium silicone
                  is ok for seals, they also say you need RTV (room temp vulcanizing)
                  which is food grade or approved for aquariums (the clear stuff, not the
                  white stuff).. The "World Class Still"site recommends using cork seals.

                  As far as JB Weld, yes I have mentioned that for leaks and outside
                  connections - however, I do not let it come in contact with the vapor
                  flow inside. I also have not had much success with silicone seals even
                  using plastic as Harry suggested or the vasoline on a one side thingy.

                  While the water/flour paste is a quick and easy fix, let me tell you
                  about another "home remedy" i now use for seals around the top rims.
                  This is nothing more than non-hardening plumber's putty with no
                  hazardous materials in it (i use the "Datey" brand available from Lowe's
                  or Home Depot). Its much more durable then the flour/water paste
                  approach and may be reused. Have never had no off-flavors with it.

                  For temporary connections, i srongly recommend wrapping teflon plumber's
                  tape inside connections and around any bolts, and then i also have used
                  the black electrictical tape on the outside (again not contact with
                  vapor flow).

                  I would recommend you re-check you connections around the sink strainer
                  and rim cover and make sure there is nothing that comes in contact with
                  the vapor flow except the copper and s.steel.

                  However, again - the best approach for permanent connections is silver
                  solder (no lead), or brazing.

                  Vino es Veritas,

                  Jim aka Waldo.


                  --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "wyobrunson" <wyobrunson@...>
                  wrote:


                  > OK, Guys, you've given me some stuff to chew on. geuss I'll
                  > dismantle and try some of your suggestions. meanwhile Ive got
                  > that cheesy little pressure cooker to fall back on, 1 pint an
                  > hour on a 5-gallon run should keep me off the streets for a while.
                  > couple thoughts though. can you weld stainless to stainless?
                  > whithout destroying the stainless properties? where can you
                  > purchase non-acetic silicone? wait! I think I saw that on a post
                  > here a couple a months back! bet with a little time I could find
                  > it again. Like the cork idea. did'nt think of that one. never heard
                  > of white lightning (the Distributor, familiar with the other) thanks
                  > for your time and quik answers. you guys are the shiznit! THNX!
                  >
                • Rasputin Paracelsus
                  Jim, I d like to recommend that we stop mentioning the WCS site, because it also recommends one silly still design as well as an unnecessarily complicated one.
                  Message 8 of 19 , Jul 2, 2009
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                    Jim,

                    I'd like to recommend that we stop mentioning the WCS site, because it
                    also recommends one silly still design as well as an unnecessarily
                    complicated one. I'm one of the poor slobs who found that site BEFORE
                    finding this list, and so spent hard-earned shekels on the silly design,
                    which means I don't have them to spend on the XFlow now, so this is
                    slowing me down. And yes, I know that one can "fix" it, but even with
                    the fix, one ends up with a substandard product (it being too short
                    without more fixes, among other things)....

                    They're also the reason I went with the (in my case failed) cork seal....

                    Just MHO and not meant in any way as a critical remark :)

                    jamesonbeam1 wrote:
                    > Hey Wy,
                    >
                    > While even the Nixon's in "The Compleat Distiller" say aquarium silicone
                    > is ok for seals, they also say you need RTV (room temp vulcanizing)
                    > which is food grade or approved for aquariums (the clear stuff, not the
                    > white stuff).. The "World Class Still"site recommends using cork seals
                    >
                  • jamesonbeam1
                    Ras, I agree with you on their column designs (even though im no expert on reflux design - talk to Riku about that), however the only times i have mentioned
                    Message 9 of 19 , Jul 2, 2009
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                      Ras,

                      I agree with you on their column designs (even though im no expert on reflux design - talk to Riku about that), however the only times i have mentioned the WCS site is the section on column connections to either beer kegs or SS milk containers.

                      These are pretty much standard and approved designs and while they recommend cork seals, other alcohol resistant materials may be substituted.

                      The only section I have recoomended is the section on these connections on page 18: http://www.moonshine-still.com/page18.htm        It is also listed in my Info Base.  But I have not recommended the column designs for the past 2 to 3 years other then mention it ;).

                      Thanks for your concerns.

                      Vino es Veritas,

                      Jim aka Waldo.


                      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Rasputin Paracelsus <rasputin@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Jim,
                      >
                      > I'd like to recommend that we stop mentioning the WCS site, because it
                      > also recommends one silly still design as well as an unnecessarily
                      > complicated one. I'm one of the poor slobs who found that site BEFORE
                      > finding this list, and so spent hard-earned shekels on the silly design,
                      > which means I don't have them to spend on the XFlow now, so this is
                      > slowing me down. And yes, I know that one can "fix" it, but even with
                      > the fix, one ends up with a substandard product (it being too short
                      > without more fixes, among other things)....
                      >
                      > They're also the reason I went with the (in my case failed) cork seal....
                      >
                      > Just MHO and not meant in any way as a critical remark :)
                      >
                      > jamesonbeam1 wrote:
                      > > Hey Wy,
                      > >
                      > > While even the Nixon's in "The Compleat Distiller" say aquarium silicone
                      > > is ok for seals, they also say you need RTV (room temp vulcanizing)
                      > > which is food grade or approved for aquariums (the clear stuff, not the
                      > > white stuff).. The "World Class Still"site recommends using cork seals
                      > >
                      >

                    • Rasputin Paracelsus
                      Hi Jim, Yes, I understand :) I say it only because the unwary might get the idea (NOT through your direct comments!) that they should perhaps pursue such a
                      Message 10 of 19 , Jul 2, 2009
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                        Hi Jim,

                        Yes, I understand :) I say it only because the unwary might get the idea
                        (NOT through your direct comments!) that they should perhaps pursue such
                        a design, that's all. Maybe I'm being overly cautious or whatever on
                        this point. Just would like to save the next poor slob some dough (which
                        can then be used to make flour seals... [bad pun]).

                        Again... not suggesting by any stretch that you've said anything amiss
                        and I'm sure you know best :)

                        Best

                        R

                        jamesonbeam1 wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        > Ras,
                        >
                        > I agree with you on their column designs (even though im no expert on
                        > reflux design - talk to Riku about that), however the only times i
                        > have mentioned the WCS site is the section on column connections to
                        > either beer kegs or SS milk containers.
                        >
                        > These are pretty much standard and approved designs and while they
                        > recommend cork seals, other alcohol resistant materials may be
                        > substituted.
                        >
                        > The only section I have recoomended is the section on these
                        > connections on page 18:
                        > http://www.moonshine-still.com/page18.htm It is also listed in
                        > my Info Base. But I have not recommended the column designs for the
                        > past 2 to 3 years other then mention it ;).
                        >
                        > Thanks for your concerns.
                        >
                        > Vino es Veritas,
                        >
                        > Jim aka Waldo.
                        >
                        >
                      • jamesonbeam1
                        Sidenote Ras, The only reflux still I have recommend for newbie still makers is the Bokabob on Tony s site over that past 2 years or so Ive been moderator here
                        Message 11 of 19 , Jul 2, 2009
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                          Sidenote Ras,

                          The only reflux still I have recommend for newbie still makers is the Bokabob on Tony's site over that past 2 years or so Ive been moderator here (over 5000 postings if you look me up in google or yahoo)... ;)

                          Jim.


                          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > Ras,
                          >
                          > I agree with you on their column designs (even though im no expert on
                          > reflux design - talk to Riku about that), however the only times i have
                          > mentioned the WCS site is the section on column connections to either
                          > beer kegs or SS milk containers.
                          >
                          > These are pretty much standard and approved designs and while they
                          > recommend cork seals, other alcohol resistant materials may be
                          > substituted.
                          >
                          > The only section I have recoomended is the section on these connections
                          > on page 18: http://www.moonshine-still.com/page18.htm
                          > <http://www.moonshine-still.com/page18.htm> It is also listed in
                          > my Info Base. But I have not recommended the column designs for the
                          > past 2 to 3 years other then mention it [;)] .
                          >
                          > Thanks for your concerns.
                          >
                          > Vino es Veritas,
                          >
                          > Jim aka Waldo.

                        • edbar44
                          there is plenty of neutral cure silicone available in the US, check this out. http://www.crlaurence.com/datasheets/pdfs/sealant.pdf
                          Message 12 of 19 , Jul 3, 2009
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                            there is plenty of neutral cure silicone available in the US, check this out.

                            http://www.crlaurence.com/datasheets/pdfs/sealant.pdf

                            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Rasputin Paracelsus <rasputin@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Mason,
                            >
                            > It's a small consolation to me that you couldn't get the proper silicone
                            > from Fastenal, I couldn't either :(
                            >
                            > There are those silicone baking sheets, though. A mite more money, but
                            > I'm seriously thinking about getting one.
                            >
                            > R
                            >
                            > rye_junkie1 wrote:
                            > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Rasputin Paracelsus <rasputin@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > >> Never worked for me... Not a great seal, and shrank when I removed it.
                            > >> (Might not have if I had let it cool first, don't know. But didn't feel
                            > >> like trying it again as it didn't work well.)
                            > >>
                            > >> And I gather from an earlier round of discussions on this topic that
                            > >> that is not an uncommon experience. Glad it worked for you, though!
                            > >>
                            > >> R
                            > >>
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > Cork never worked for me either. Had similar issues to yours R.
                            > >
                            > > Sink strainer: get rid of the JB weld and get a oring from a hydraulic shop. Buna or Silicone Put the oring between the strainer and the underside of the lid. If the hole you cut for the strainer is pretty precise then I would also try wrapping the hell out of the strainer with Teflon tape where it contacts the boiler lid. The lid I have that uses a strainer I machined and precisely to the middle of the curve at the flange. It doesnt require a separate seal.
                            > > Lid to boiler seal: Flour and water paste or if you are in Aus or new zealand pick up some of that sealys stuff Harry talks about. Good luck finding Neutral cure here in the US. My fastenal Rep is a White lightning silicone distributor and he couldnt get his hands on the right stuff. Aquarium sealant is an acetic cure. Use at your own risk. I'll save mine for the fish.
                            > >
                            > > Mason
                            >
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