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Needle valve

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  • billfitz49
    Can you recommend a good 1/4” needle valve for a still? I am presently looking at 2 types: A brass, inexpensive valve ($4.60) from Grainger:
    Message 1 of 5 , Mar 4, 2009
      Can you recommend a good 1/4” needle valve for a still?
      I am presently looking at 2 types:
      A brass, inexpensive valve ($4.60) from Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6MM66
      and a stainless steel Parker valve: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RAZ4
      The expensive SS one has Teflon stem packing (PCTFE). Is that OK with alcohol? Any problems with the cheap, brass one?
      An earlier post recommended a brass stopcockvalve from McMaster-Carr.com (# 5049K4) but I want one that is not right angle and has a compression fitting at each end.
      Thanks,
      Bill
    • rye_junkie1
      ... I ve been using the brass one for a year now. Never had a problem. When I built my X flow head I installed one of these in 3/8 size on the LM take off.
      Message 2 of 5 , Mar 4, 2009
        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "billfitz49" <billfitz@...> wrote:
        >
        > Can you recommend a good 1/4” needle valve for a still?
        > I am presently looking at 2 types:
        > A brass, inexpensive valve ($4.60) from Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6MM66
        > and a stainless steel Parker valve: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1RAZ4
        > The expensive SS one has Teflon stem packing (PCTFE). Is that OK with alcohol? Any problems with the cheap, brass one?
        > An earlier post recommended a brass stopcockvalve from McMaster-Carr.com (# 5049K4) but I want one that is not right angle and has a compression fitting at each end.
        > Thanks,
        > Bill
        >

        I've been using the brass one for a year now. Never had a problem. When I built my X flow head I installed one of these in 3/8" size on the LM take off. If your worried about the packing in the Brass one, its easy enough to just remove it and wrap the upper stem/threads with teflon tape. I also went with brass on the gate valve for the VM side. 87 buck for a dippy SS valve is robbery.

        Mason
      • billfitz49
        Hi Mason. I ll follow your advice and go with the brass....not a hard decision considering price difference. It s for a X Flow head I m building that s
        Message 3 of 5 , Mar 4, 2009
          Hi Mason.
          I'll follow your advice and go with the brass....not a hard decision considering price difference. It's for a X Flow head I'm building that's almost ready to braze. I plan to go with 1/4 inch size needle valve for the LM takeoff.
          Thanks.
          Bill

          > I've been using the brass one for a year now. Never had a problem. When I built my X flow head I installed one of these in 3/8" size on the LM take off. If your worried about the packing in the Brass one, its easy enough to just remove it and wrap the upper stem/threads with teflon tape. I also went with brass on the gate valve for the VM side. 87 buck for a dippy SS valve is robbery.
          >
          > Mason
          >
        • rye_junkie1
          ... I decided to go 3/8 on the X flow as an after thought. I actually had a 6 piece of 1/4 refrigeration tube brazed in for the LM because i was going to
          Message 4 of 5 , Mar 4, 2009
            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "billfitz49" <billfitz@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hi Mason.
            > I'll follow your advice and go with the brass....not a hard decision considering price difference. It's for a X Flow head I'm building that's almost ready to braze. I plan to go with 1/4 inch size needle valve for the LM takeoff.
            > Thanks.
            > Bill


            I decided to go 3/8" on the X flow as an after thought. I actually had a 6" piece of 1/4" refrigeration tube brazed in for the LM because i was going to use my liebig chiller on that side. I found that when i did the water run with 2500 watts that I didnt get a nice steady stream from it though. It kinda blew bubbles. This was also the case with the offset head and Bok rig that used the 1/4" valve on. When i would open it all the way and crank the heat to run the tails it did this.
            So after seeing this on the x flow i cut the tube and carefully drilled the hole for 3/8"OD tube and brazed that in and installed the new valve. I also modified the chiller to the larger tube. Nice steady stream now. Also am still scratching my head at how the distillate from the X flow head really does not need the chiller. How does it get away with that? Harry?
            It is just another advantage to the design but I havent figured out why it does that. Best i can come up with is that the cooling is so efficient and the vapor really never gets past the edges of the dam wall allowing the x flow head to double as a chiller.

            Mason
            Yea, i really dont know.
          • Harry
            ... am still scratching my head at how the distillate from the X flow head really does not need the chiller. How does it get away with that? Harry? ... You
            Message 5 of 5 , Mar 4, 2009
              --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rye_junkie1" <rye_junkie@...> wrote:


              am still scratching my head at how the distillate from the X flow head really does not need the chiller. How does it get away with that? Harry?

              > It is just another advantage to the design but I havent figured out why it does that. Best i can come up with is that the cooling is so efficient and the vapor really never gets past the edges of the dam wall allowing the x flow head to double as a chiller.
              >
              > Mason
              > Yea, i really dont know.
              >


              You have it correct Mason. :)

              That's why the crossflow is the preferred configuration for steam/process water recovery in industry.

              Slainte!
              regards Harry
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