Re: Brazing rods
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Zapata Vive"
> Mason, your link took me to a list of their products, not one in
>the right stuff. I found the best deal local to me at an appliance
> But in my area, the hardware stores and tractor stores don't carry
store (the kind of place you'd buy a replacement element for a
stove, or a part for a dishwasher). They sold 5% and 15% silver
solder (I used 15%) by the individual stick at very reasonable
prices. The only other local places I found started at a 1/2 pound,
way more than I needed.
>do it with one stick. My work sucked and I kind of ended up just
> It took 2 partial sticks to build my x-flow, but you might could
globing the rod on the surface and melting it around. Not the best
way to work, but it was my first brazing attempt and I was halfway
done before I realized that the big tip on my MAPP torch actually
works better than my smaller oxy and MAPP torch. I coulda saved a
couple tanks of oxygen if I'd known that to begin with. I probably
used less than 1/3 as much solder on the other end once I figured it
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rye_junkie1
> To: email@example.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 9:20 PM
> Subject: [new_distillers] Brazing rods
> Harry, Riku, Sherman?
> Getting this Crossflow build going and I was wondering if these
> were OK to use. They read to be Cadmium and lead free and theyare
> readily available at the local tractor supply or ace hardware.Your
> instructions Harry recommend Prosilver2.they
> I have tried these on sample copper pieces with a Mapp torch and
> seem to work well.sounds like you are on the right track, however look up
soldering .silver solder needs hotter heat than lead ,any way u need
to prep the joint sanding and flux put the joint togather heat until
the silver solder melts and sucks its self into the joint .