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Re: 1st pot still construction ?s

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  • ericmgeigle
    Jim (or anyone else who cares to chime in :-) -- Thanks for the reply. A follow up question or two, if you d be so kind... I did some measuring and went to
    Message 1 of 4 , Oct 20, 2008
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      Jim (or anyone else who cares to chime in :-) --

      Thanks for the reply. A follow up question or two, if you'd be so kind...

      I did some measuring and went to the store. Given the space in my
      kitchen, I figure two feet of tubing is quite enough to build my lyne
      arm with about a 30 degree down angle, and connect it to the worm.

      You said:
      > I would suggest 1/2 " ID (5/8 " OD) for your lyne arme and 1/2 "
      > flexible ID for the condenser worm... You could go to 2/3" ID and
      >1/2" flexible for the condenser, but it would be getting expensive
      >and i think its a bit of overkill.

      Again, I have a 4gal SS pot and 8q bowl for a dome, worm in a bucket
      cooler planned (probably 10' of refrigerator coiling), running of a
      domestic stove.

      Two feet of copper tubing is well within my budget. Would there be
      an advantage to kicking the arm up to 1" (I'm guessing this is OD --
      however Lowe's/Home Depot sells their pipe)? I presume I could run
      faster with a larger diameter, but I also realize faster runs aren't
      necessarily better runs. Do you say "overkill" because a stove burner
      isn't going to be able to fill that big a diameter?

      If there is an advantage to the 1" diameter, would that necessarily
      dictate a large ID for the worm? The calculator on Tony's site
      indicates the worm length should be directly inversely proportionate
      to the diameter of the worm, but I don't see any variables for the
      input diameter.

      Thanks again,
      E.G.
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