Re: Building an Air Heat Exchange Condenser
Harry asked me to post a discription of what I was describing. I will
try to post something understandable in the next few days. Harry also
sent a picture with one of his posts to this title of an air heat
exchanger that is much simpler to buil. Anothe post came in stating
to use base board heat tubbint that has heat distribution fins
already attached. This would also work. The one item I realized after
my posting is the exchanger will need to be cleaned. This means it
must come appart so wait until I post the plans before you build one
like I was describing.
--- In email@example.com, Brandon Lee <blueflame456@...>
>going to try this when i get back to my home--have been on the east
> Thanks for the info--i understand what it is you are saying---i'm
coast since Jan and am ready to start brewing again---missed last
year sorta--only did one batch-- built the water unit % in just
under 4 hrs---i just dont want to fool with the water anymore---
> I'll build one like you describe and let you know how it turns outsubject
> Your brother in the spirits
> chevisn7 <chevisn7@...> wrote:
> Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger.
> I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a
> rather than always asking the questions. I am a new bee in this(This
> brewing process but I have 30+ years plus as a master mechanic
> has been part of my problem I always look to mechanics for answersheat
> rather than Chemistry)
> Anyway I do have a little knowledge of the latent effect of heat
> dissipation through air circulation and distribution. Commonly
> referred to as a Air Heat Exchanger.
> To make an air heat exchanger your vapor will need to pass over
> distribution plates stacked one on top of the other with a slightair
> separation between each of the plates.condenser
> For my Valve Reflux still I would need to replace the water
> with an Air Heat Exchanger built in the following manner.My
> Cut a 24 inch piece of Copper pipe into rings about ¾ inches tall.
> first estimate would be the exchanger would need to be at least 18least
> inches tall when finished. Adjustments in height could be made if
> needed. Then take flat pieces of copper plate possibly 16 or 20
> gauge cut into 6 to 8 inch squares or circles. The larger the
> Solder each ring to the center of each plate so it is sealed at the
> edges and then divide the center of the ring in half. Drill at
> a dozen or more ¼ inch holes in one side of one half of the centerof
> the ring. This is so the vapor can flow across the place and then¼
> through the holes. Alternate this method for each plate going from
> one side to the other. Assemble the rings and plates so the
> vapor can flow up the column in a zig zag motion. Drill one or two
> inch holes in plate at the other side of the inner circle close tosolder
> the edge for condensate to return down the inner edge of the column
> on the opposite side. Be sure to give yourself enough room to
> each of the plates and rings together once the holes are drilled.the
> On the outside of the pipe where the plate comes in contact with
> air you want to drill as many holes through the plate as possible.of
> The more holes the better. Your goal is to create as much air
> circulation area as possible. Try and create a honeycomb looking
> pattern. Then repeat the process with each ring and each plate.
> Soldering them one on top of the other after the holes have been
> The larger the heat distribution plates (Called Fins) the better.
> Imagine what the head of a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Engine looks
> like. Or look at the Radiator in your car. These are both examples
> Air Heat Exchangers. The main difference in this case is you wantcondenses
> greater efficiency so the fins need to pass all the way into the
> vapor column.
> As the vapor passes through each fin it will cool just a little. As
> it touches the next fin it will cool a little more until it
> back into a liquid. Be sure the fins are as thin as possible. Thicktherefore
> fins will require more time to transfer heat to the air and
> it will take more of them to complete the condensation process.are
> Larger fins with larger gaps between the fins will also work. (As
> long as the cooling surface area is the same.) Larger gaps with
> larger fins will also help with air circulation. In this case you
> only trying to condense vapor that is below 212 degrees that shouldbut
> not be a major problem.
> The process should work relatively well. Many application use it
> most Air Heat Exchangers are used to keep an item at a precisemay
> temperature. Hopefully this little bit of information helps. I can
> give you another example that should also work but the efficiency
> not be quite as good and it would possibly cost a little more toTry it now.
> build. Wont know until someone trys it.
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