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Building an Air Heat Exchange Condenser

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  • chevisn7
    Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger. I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a subject rather than always asking the
    Message 1 of 6 , Mar 4, 2008
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      Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger.
      I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a subject
      rather than always asking the questions. I am a new bee in this
      brewing process but I have 30+ years plus as a master mechanic (This
      has been part of my problem I always look to mechanics for answers
      rather than Chemistry)
      Anyway I do have a little knowledge of the latent effect of heat
      dissipation through air circulation and distribution. Commonly
      referred to as a Air Heat Exchanger.

      To make an air heat exchanger your vapor will need to pass over heat
      distribution plates stacked one on top of the other with a slight air
      separation between each of the plates.

      For my Valve Reflux still I would need to replace the water condenser
      with an Air Heat Exchanger built in the following manner.

      Cut a 24 inch piece of Copper pipe into rings about ¾ inches tall. My
      first estimate would be the exchanger would need to be at least 18
      inches tall when finished. Adjustments in height could be made if
      needed. Then take flat pieces of copper plate possibly 16 or 20
      gauge cut into 6 to 8 inch squares or circles. The larger the
      better.

      Solder each ring to the center of each plate so it is sealed at the
      edges and then divide the center of the ring in half. Drill at least
      a dozen or more ¼ inch holes in one side of one half of the center of
      the ring. This is so the vapor can flow across the place and then
      through the holes. Alternate this method for each plate going from
      one side to the other. Assemble the rings and plates so the
      vapor can flow up the column in a zig zag motion. Drill one or two ¼
      inch holes in plate at the other side of the inner circle close to
      the edge for condensate to return down the inner edge of the column
      on the opposite side. Be sure to give yourself enough room to solder
      each of the plates and rings together once the holes are drilled.

      On the outside of the pipe where the plate comes in contact with the
      air you want to drill as many holes through the plate as possible.
      The more holes the better. Your goal is to create as much air
      circulation area as possible. Try and create a honeycomb looking
      pattern. Then repeat the process with each ring and each plate.
      Soldering them one on top of the other after the holes have been
      drilled.

      The larger the heat distribution plates (Called Fins) the better.
      Imagine what the head of a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Engine looks
      like. Or look at the Radiator in your car. These are both examples of
      Air Heat Exchangers. The main difference in this case is you want
      greater efficiency so the fins need to pass all the way into the
      vapor column.

      As the vapor passes through each fin it will cool just a little. As
      it touches the next fin it will cool a little more until it condenses
      back into a liquid. Be sure the fins are as thin as possible. Thick
      fins will require more time to transfer heat to the air and therefore
      it will take more of them to complete the condensation process.

      Larger fins with larger gaps between the fins will also work. (As
      long as the cooling surface area is the same.) Larger gaps with
      larger fins will also help with air circulation. In this case you are
      only trying to condense vapor that is below 212 degrees that should
      not be a major problem.

      The process should work relatively well. Many application use it but
      most Air Heat Exchangers are used to keep an item at a precise
      temperature. Hopefully this little bit of information helps. I can
      give you another example that should also work but the efficiency may
      not be quite as good and it would possibly cost a little more to
      build. Wont know until someone trys it.
      Chuck
    • Harry
      ... , chevisn7 ... My ... of ... ¼ ... Interesting concept, Chuck. Can you draw diagrams? Post em
      Message 2 of 6 , Mar 4, 2008
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        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "chevisn7" <chevisn7@...> wrote:

        >
        > Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger.
        > I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a subject
        > rather than always asking the questions. I am a new bee in this
        > brewing process but I have 30+ years plus as a master mechanic (This
        > has been part of my problem I always look to mechanics for answers
        > rather than Chemistry)
        > Anyway I do have a little knowledge of the latent effect of heat
        > dissipation through air circulation and distribution. Commonly
        > referred to as a Air Heat Exchanger.
        >
        > To make an air heat exchanger your vapor will need to pass over heat
        > distribution plates stacked one on top of the other with a slight air
        > separation between each of the plates.
        >
        > For my Valve Reflux still I would need to replace the water condenser
        > with an Air Heat Exchanger built in the following manner.
        >
        > Cut a 24 inch piece of Copper pipe into rings about ¾ inches tall. My
        > first estimate would be the exchanger would need to be at least 18
        > inches tall when finished. Adjustments in height could be made if
        > needed.  Then take flat pieces of copper plate possibly 16 or 20
        > gauge cut into 6 to 8 inch squares or circles.  The larger the
        > better.
        >
        > Solder each ring to the center of each plate so it is sealed at the
        > edges and then divide the center of the ring in half. Drill at least
        > a dozen or more ¼ inch holes in one side of one half of the center of
        > the ring.  This is so the vapor can flow across the place and then
        > through the holes. Alternate this method for each plate going from
        > one side to the other. Assemble the rings and plates so the
        > vapor can flow up the column in a zig zag motion.  Drill one or two ¼
        > inch holes in plate at the other side of the inner circle close to
        > the edge for condensate to return down the inner edge of the column
        > on the opposite side. Be sure to give yourself enough room to solder
        > each of the plates and rings together once the holes are drilled.
        >
        > On the outside of the pipe where the plate comes in contact with the
        > air you want to drill as many holes through the plate as possible.
        > The more holes the better. Your goal is to create as much air
        > circulation area as possible. Try and create a honeycomb looking
        > pattern.  Then repeat the process with each ring and each plate.
        > Soldering them one on top of the other after the holes have been
        > drilled. 
        >
        > The larger the heat distribution plates (Called Fins) the better.
        > Imagine what the head of a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Engine looks
        > like. Or look at the Radiator in your car. These are both examples of
        > Air Heat Exchangers. The main difference in this case is you want
        > greater efficiency so the fins need to pass all the way into the
        > vapor column.
        >
        > As the vapor passes through each fin it will cool just a little. As
        > it touches the next fin it will cool a little more until it condenses
        > back into a liquid.  Be sure the fins are as thin as possible. Thick
        > fins will require more time to transfer heat to the air and therefore
        > it will take more of them to complete the condensation process.
        >
        > Larger fins with larger gaps between the fins will also work. (As
        > long as the cooling surface area is the same.) Larger gaps with
        > larger fins will also help with air circulation. In this case you are
        > only trying to condense vapor that is below 212 degrees that should
        > not be a major problem. 
        >
        > The process should work relatively well.  Many application use it but
        > most Air Heat Exchangers are used to keep an item at a precise
        > temperature.   Hopefully this little bit of information helps. I can
        > give you another example that should also work but the efficiency may
        > not be quite as good and it would possibly cost a little more to
        > build.  Wont know until someone trys it. 
        > Chuck
        >

         

        Interesting concept, Chuck.  Can you draw diagrams?  Post 'em to the [photos] section.

        My experience with designing heat exchangers says that air is a poor transfer fluid, unless it is stirred up with a fan of some sort.  Same thing applies with water in a coil.  It does diddly squat unless the coolant fluid is moving.

        Sherman has a design that consists of a coil of copper pipe with a fan to force the air around it.  Simple yet effective.  See below...

        Slainte!
        regards Harry
        http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/

      • chevisn7
        Hi Harry The design you show in your picture is the same concept as a house AC condenser. It would be much more efficient if it had air cooling fins to
        Message 3 of 6 , Mar 4, 2008
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          Hi Harry
          The design you show in your picture is the same concept as a house AC
          condenser. It would be much more efficient if it had air cooling fins
          to disipate the heat. In its present design it is using surface
          conductivity which is very inefficient. But you are right it is a
          simple yet effective concept as long as you have good air flow and
          you are not trying to dissipate a lot of heat.

          You are also correct. Forced air flow will drastically improve the
          dissipation of heat. I would still recommend a fan blowing on any
          type of air flow condenser or heat exchanger. The efficiency would be
          greatly improved. But I think one could be designed that did not
          need forced air flow.

          I will do some doodling and see if I can post some type of diagram to
          show the concept.
          Chuck

          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...>
          wrote:
          >
          >
          > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
          > <mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com> , "chevisn7" <chevisn7@>
          > wrote:
          > >
          > > Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger.
          > > I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a
          subject
          > > rather than always asking the questions. I am a new bee in this
          > > brewing process but I have 30+ years plus as a master mechanic
          (This
          > > has been part of my problem I always look to mechanics for answers
          > > rather than Chemistry)
          > > Anyway I do have a little knowledge of the latent effect of heat
          > > dissipation through air circulation and distribution. Commonly
          > > referred to as a Air Heat Exchanger.
          > >
          > > To make an air heat exchanger your vapor will need to pass over
          heat
          > > distribution plates stacked one on top of the other with a slight
          air
          > > separation between each of the plates.
          > >
          > > For my Valve Reflux still I would need to replace the water
          condenser
          > > with an Air Heat Exchanger built in the following manner.
          > >
          > > Cut a 24 inch piece of Copper pipe into rings about ¾ inches tall.
          > My
          > > first estimate would be the exchanger would need to be at least 18
          > > inches tall when finished. Adjustments in height could be made if
          > > needed. Then take flat pieces of copper plate possibly 16 or 20
          > > gauge cut into 6 to 8 inch squares or circles. The larger the
          > > better.
          > >
          > > Solder each ring to the center of each plate so it is sealed at
          the
          > > edges and then divide the center of the ring in half. Drill at
          least
          > > a dozen or more ¼ inch holes in one side of one half of the center
          > of
          > > the ring. This is so the vapor can flow across the place and then
          > > through the holes. Alternate this method for each plate going from
          > > one side to the other. Assemble the rings and plates so the
          > > vapor can flow up the column in a zig zag motion. Drill one or
          two
          > ¼
          > > inch holes in plate at the other side of the inner circle close to
          > > the edge for condensate to return down the inner edge of the
          column
          > > on the opposite side. Be sure to give yourself enough room to
          solder
          > > each of the plates and rings together once the holes are drilled.
          > >
          > > On the outside of the pipe where the plate comes in contact with
          the
          > > air you want to drill as many holes through the plate as possible.
          > > The more holes the better. Your goal is to create as much air
          > > circulation area as possible. Try and create a honeycomb looking
          > > pattern. Then repeat the process with each ring and each plate.
          > > Soldering them one on top of the other after the holes have been
          > > drilled.
          > >
          > > The larger the heat distribution plates (Called Fins) the better.
          > > Imagine what the head of a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Engine looks
          > > like. Or look at the Radiator in your car. These are both
          examples of
          > > Air Heat Exchangers. The main difference in this case is you want
          > > greater efficiency so the fins need to pass all the way into the
          > > vapor column.
          > >
          > > As the vapor passes through each fin it will cool just a little.
          As
          > > it touches the next fin it will cool a little more until it
          condenses
          > > back into a liquid. Be sure the fins are as thin as possible.
          Thick
          > > fins will require more time to transfer heat to the air and
          therefore
          > > it will take more of them to complete the condensation process.
          > >
          > > Larger fins with larger gaps between the fins will also work. (As
          > > long as the cooling surface area is the same.) Larger gaps with
          > > larger fins will also help with air circulation. In this case you
          are
          > > only trying to condense vapor that is below 212 degrees that
          should
          > > not be a major problem.
          > >
          > > The process should work relatively well. Many application use it
          but
          > > most Air Heat Exchangers are used to keep an item at a precise
          > > temperature. Hopefully this little bit of information helps. I
          can
          > > give you another example that should also work but the efficiency
          may
          > > not be quite as good and it would possibly cost a little more to
          > > build. Wont know until someone trys it.
          > > Chuck
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          > Interesting concept, Chuck. Can you draw diagrams? Post 'em to the
          > [photos] section.
          >
          > My experience with designing heat exchangers says that air is a poor
          > transfer fluid, unless it is stirred up with a fan of some sort.
          Same
          > thing applies with water in a coil. It does diddly squat unless the
          > coolant fluid is moving.
          >
          > Sherman has a design that consists of a coil of copper pipe with a
          fan
          > to force the air around it. Simple yet effective. See below...
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Slainte!
          > regards Harry
          > http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/
          >
        • pugs2510
          ... subject ... (This ... heat ... air ... condenser ... the ... least ... two ... column ... solder ... the ... examples of ... As ... condenses ... Thick ...
          Message 4 of 6 , Mar 4, 2008
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            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...>
            wrote:
            >
            >
            > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
            > <mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com> , "chevisn7" <chevisn7@>
            > wrote:
            > >
            > > Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger.
            > > I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a
            subject
            > > rather than always asking the questions. I am a new bee in this
            > > brewing process but I have 30+ years plus as a master mechanic
            (This
            > > has been part of my problem I always look to mechanics for answers
            > > rather than Chemistry)
            > > Anyway I do have a little knowledge of the latent effect of heat
            > > dissipation through air circulation and distribution. Commonly
            > > referred to as a Air Heat Exchanger.
            > >
            > > To make an air heat exchanger your vapor will need to pass over
            heat
            > > distribution plates stacked one on top of the other with a slight
            air
            > > separation between each of the plates.
            > >
            > > For my Valve Reflux still I would need to replace the water
            condenser
            > > with an Air Heat Exchanger built in the following manner.
            > >
            > > Cut a 24 inch piece of Copper pipe into rings about ¾ inches tall.
            > My
            > > first estimate would be the exchanger would need to be at least 18
            > > inches tall when finished. Adjustments in height could be made if
            > > needed. Then take flat pieces of copper plate possibly 16 or 20
            > > gauge cut into 6 to 8 inch squares or circles. The larger the
            > > better.
            > >
            > > Solder each ring to the center of each plate so it is sealed at
            the
            > > edges and then divide the center of the ring in half. Drill at
            least
            > > a dozen or more ¼ inch holes in one side of one half of the center
            > of
            > > the ring. This is so the vapor can flow across the place and then
            > > through the holes. Alternate this method for each plate going from
            > > one side to the other. Assemble the rings and plates so the
            > > vapor can flow up the column in a zig zag motion. Drill one or
            two
            > ¼
            > > inch holes in plate at the other side of the inner circle close to
            > > the edge for condensate to return down the inner edge of the
            column
            > > on the opposite side. Be sure to give yourself enough room to
            solder
            > > each of the plates and rings together once the holes are drilled.
            > >
            > > On the outside of the pipe where the plate comes in contact with
            the
            > > air you want to drill as many holes through the plate as possible.
            > > The more holes the better. Your goal is to create as much air
            > > circulation area as possible. Try and create a honeycomb looking
            > > pattern. Then repeat the process with each ring and each plate.
            > > Soldering them one on top of the other after the holes have been
            > > drilled.
            > >
            > > The larger the heat distribution plates (Called Fins) the better.
            > > Imagine what the head of a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Engine looks
            > > like. Or look at the Radiator in your car. These are both
            examples of
            > > Air Heat Exchangers. The main difference in this case is you want
            > > greater efficiency so the fins need to pass all the way into the
            > > vapor column.
            > >
            > > As the vapor passes through each fin it will cool just a little.
            As
            > > it touches the next fin it will cool a little more until it
            condenses
            > > back into a liquid. Be sure the fins are as thin as possible.
            Thick
            > > fins will require more time to transfer heat to the air and
            therefore
            > > it will take more of them to complete the condensation process.
            > >
            > > Larger fins with larger gaps between the fins will also work. (As
            > > long as the cooling surface area is the same.) Larger gaps with
            > > larger fins will also help with air circulation. In this case you
            are
            > > only trying to condense vapor that is below 212 degrees that
            should
            > > not be a major problem.
            > >
            > > The process should work relatively well. Many application use it
            but
            > > most Air Heat Exchangers are used to keep an item at a precise
            > > temperature. Hopefully this little bit of information helps. I
            can
            > > give you another example that should also work but the efficiency
            may
            > > not be quite as good and it would possibly cost a little more to
            > > build. Wont know until someone trys it.
            > > Chuck
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            > Interesting concept, Chuck. Can you draw diagrams? Post 'em to the
            > [photos] section.
            >
            > My experience with designing heat exchangers says that air is a poor
            > transfer fluid, unless it is stirred up with a fan of some sort.
            Same
            > thing applies with water in a coil. It does diddly squat unless the
            > coolant fluid is moving.
            >
            > Sherman has a design that consists of a coil of copper pipe with a
            fan
            > to force the air around it. Simple yet effective. See below...
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Slainte!
            > regards Harry
            > http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/
            >
            THINK BASE BOARD HEATING PIPE. IT HAS FINS ALREADY AND THE PIPE IS
            COPPER . WORKS GREAT . ,I WOULD PLACE A SMALL FAN BEHIND THE
            CONDENSER BLOWING OVER THE THE FINS. I USE A 1500W HEAT SOURCE AND A
            15GAL KEG WITH ABOUT A 2IN BY 36IN STILL HEAD AND HAVE NEVER HAD A
            PROBLEM YET

            LATER PUGS
          • Brandon Lee
            Chuck-- Thanks for the info--i understand what it is you are saying---i m going to try this when i get back to my home--have been on the east coast since Jan
            Message 5 of 6 , Mar 8, 2008
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              Chuck--
              Thanks for the info--i understand what it is you are saying---i'm going to try this when i get back to my home--have been on the east coast since Jan and am ready to start brewing again---missed last year  sorta--only did one batch--  built the water unit  % in just under 4 hrs---i just dont want to fool with the water anymore---
              I'll build one like you describe and let you know how it turns out
              Your brother in the spirits
              Blueflame456

              chevisn7 <chevisn7@...> wrote:
              Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger.
              I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a subject
              rather than always asking the questions. I am a new bee in this
              brewing process but I have 30+ years plus as a master mechanic (This
              has been part of my problem I always look to mechanics for answers
              rather than Chemistry)
              Anyway I do have a little knowledge of the latent effect of heat
              dissipation through air circulation and distribution. Commonly
              referred to as a Air Heat Exchanger.

              To make an air heat exchanger your vapor will need to pass over heat
              distribution plates stacked one on top of the other with a slight air
              separation between each of the plates.

              For my Valve Reflux still I would need to replace the water condenser
              with an Air Heat Exchanger built in the following manner.

              Cut a 24 inch piece of Copper pipe into rings about ¾ inches tall. My
              first estimate would be the exchanger would need to be at least 18
              inches tall when finished. Adjustments in height could be made if
              needed. Then take flat pieces of copper plate possibly 16 or 20
              gauge cut into 6 to 8 inch squares or circles. The larger the
              better.

              Solder each ring to the center of each plate so it is sealed at the
              edges and then divide the center of the ring in half. Drill at least
              a dozen or more ¼ inch holes in one side of one half of the center of
              the ring. This is so the vapor can flow across the place and then
              through the holes. Alternate this method for each plate going from
              one side to the other. Assemble the rings and plates so the
              vapor can flow up the column in a zig zag motion. Drill one or two ¼
              inch holes in plate at the other side of the inner circle close to
              the edge for condensate to return down the inner edge of the column
              on the opposite side. Be sure to give yourself enough room to solder
              each of the plates and rings together once the holes are drilled.

              On the outside of the pipe where the plate comes in contact with the
              air you want to drill as many holes through the plate as possible.
              The more holes the better. Your goal is to create as much air
              circulation area as possible. Try and create a honeycomb looking
              pattern. Then repeat the process with each ring and each plate.
              Soldering them one on top of the other after the holes have been
              drilled.

              The larger the heat distribution plates (Called Fins) the better.
              Imagine what the head of a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Engine looks
              like. Or look at the Radiator in your car. These are both examples of
              Air Heat Exchangers. The main difference in this case is you want
              greater efficiency so the fins need to pass all the way into the
              vapor column.

              As the vapor passes through each fin it will cool just a little. As
              it touches the next fin it will cool a little more until it condenses
              back into a liquid. Be sure the fins are as thin as possible. Thick
              fins will require more time to transfer heat to the air and therefore
              it will take more of them to complete the condensation process.

              Larger fins with larger gaps between the fins will also work. (As
              long as the cooling surface area is the same.) Larger gaps with
              larger fins will also help with air circulation. In this case you are
              only trying to condense vapor that is below 212 degrees that should
              not be a major problem.

              The process should work relatively well. Many application use it but
              most Air Heat Exchangers are used to keep an item at a precise
              temperature. Hopefully this little bit of information helps. I can
              give you another example that should also work but the efficiency may
              not be quite as good and it would possibly cost a little more to
              build. Wont know until someone trys it.
              Chuck



              Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

            • chevisn7
              Blueflame Harry asked me to post a discription of what I was describing. I will try to post something understandable in the next few days. Harry also sent a
              Message 6 of 6 , Mar 10, 2008
              • 0 Attachment
                Blueflame
                Harry asked me to post a discription of what I was describing. I will
                try to post something understandable in the next few days. Harry also
                sent a picture with one of his posts to this title of an air heat
                exchanger that is much simpler to buil. Anothe post came in stating
                to use base board heat tubbint that has heat distribution fins
                already attached. This would also work. The one item I realized after
                my posting is the exchanger will need to be cleaned. This means it
                must come appart so wait until I post the plans before you build one
                like I was describing.
                Chuck
                --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Brandon Lee <blueflame456@...>
                wrote:
                >
                > Chuck--
                > Thanks for the info--i understand what it is you are saying---i'm
                going to try this when i get back to my home--have been on the east
                coast since Jan and am ready to start brewing again---missed last
                year sorta--only did one batch-- built the water unit % in just
                under 4 hrs---i just dont want to fool with the water anymore---
                > I'll build one like you describe and let you know how it turns out
                > Your brother in the spirits
                > Blueflame456
                >
                > chevisn7 <chevisn7@...> wrote:
                > Blueflame asked a question about an Air Heat Exchanger.
                > I guys Chuck here: Maybe I can now offer a little input on a
                subject
                > rather than always asking the questions. I am a new bee in this
                > brewing process but I have 30+ years plus as a master mechanic
                (This
                > has been part of my problem I always look to mechanics for answers
                > rather than Chemistry)
                > Anyway I do have a little knowledge of the latent effect of heat
                > dissipation through air circulation and distribution. Commonly
                > referred to as a Air Heat Exchanger.
                >
                > To make an air heat exchanger your vapor will need to pass over
                heat
                > distribution plates stacked one on top of the other with a slight
                air
                > separation between each of the plates.
                >
                > For my Valve Reflux still I would need to replace the water
                condenser
                > with an Air Heat Exchanger built in the following manner.
                >
                > Cut a 24 inch piece of Copper pipe into rings about ¾ inches tall.
                My
                > first estimate would be the exchanger would need to be at least 18
                > inches tall when finished. Adjustments in height could be made if
                > needed. Then take flat pieces of copper plate possibly 16 or 20
                > gauge cut into 6 to 8 inch squares or circles. The larger the
                > better.
                >
                > Solder each ring to the center of each plate so it is sealed at the
                > edges and then divide the center of the ring in half. Drill at
                least
                > a dozen or more ¼ inch holes in one side of one half of the center
                of
                > the ring. This is so the vapor can flow across the place and then
                > through the holes. Alternate this method for each plate going from
                > one side to the other. Assemble the rings and plates so the
                > vapor can flow up the column in a zig zag motion. Drill one or two
                ¼
                > inch holes in plate at the other side of the inner circle close to
                > the edge for condensate to return down the inner edge of the column
                > on the opposite side. Be sure to give yourself enough room to
                solder
                > each of the plates and rings together once the holes are drilled.
                >
                > On the outside of the pipe where the plate comes in contact with
                the
                > air you want to drill as many holes through the plate as possible.
                > The more holes the better. Your goal is to create as much air
                > circulation area as possible. Try and create a honeycomb looking
                > pattern. Then repeat the process with each ring and each plate.
                > Soldering them one on top of the other after the holes have been
                > drilled.
                >
                > The larger the heat distribution plates (Called Fins) the better.
                > Imagine what the head of a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Engine looks
                > like. Or look at the Radiator in your car. These are both examples
                of
                > Air Heat Exchangers. The main difference in this case is you want
                > greater efficiency so the fins need to pass all the way into the
                > vapor column.
                >
                > As the vapor passes through each fin it will cool just a little. As
                > it touches the next fin it will cool a little more until it
                condenses
                > back into a liquid. Be sure the fins are as thin as possible. Thick
                > fins will require more time to transfer heat to the air and
                therefore
                > it will take more of them to complete the condensation process.
                >
                > Larger fins with larger gaps between the fins will also work. (As
                > long as the cooling surface area is the same.) Larger gaps with
                > larger fins will also help with air circulation. In this case you
                are
                > only trying to condense vapor that is below 212 degrees that should
                > not be a major problem.
                >
                > The process should work relatively well. Many application use it
                but
                > most Air Heat Exchangers are used to keep an item at a precise
                > temperature. Hopefully this little bit of information helps. I can
                > give you another example that should also work but the efficiency
                may
                > not be quite as good and it would possibly cost a little more to
                > build. Wont know until someone trys it.
                > Chuck
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > ---------------------------------
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