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Re: Yeast for corn whiskey

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  • Harry
    ... and ... a ... pure. ... tops ... use ... So ... such ... is ... of ... a ... You ... caps. ... in ... chemicals ... cup ... sterilize. ... outside ... kill
    Message 1 of 15 , Mar 1, 2008
      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Sherman" <pintoshine@...>
      > This is a practical implementation of that dissertation.
      > When I use a fish tank to grow yeast, I use at least three stones
      > a typical pump suited to a ten gallon tank. I start with a very weak
      > molasses, urea, and b complex to make a 5 gallon mixture. I try for
      > gravity of 1.020 which isn't much molasses.
      > Procedure for fish tank yeast propagator.
      > So I start with:
      > 64 fl oz of molasses
      > 1 tbs urea or DAP or your favorite nitrogen source.
      > 2 one a day style vitamins ground fine.
      > 1/4 tsp Epsom salts, I usually find the USP grade which is very
      > boil all this together in a gallon of water for 30 minutes.
      > Add enough water to bring the level to half a 10 gallon fish tank.
      > Cover the thing with a support and a thin cloth. The hamster wire
      > are fine for this.
      > With no alcohol and this small gravity yeast grow like crazy.
      > The next 6 days I add another 16 oz of molasses.
      > The yeast is still going to make copious amounts of CO2. This will
      > make a gas cap on top of the liquid. The air coming in will prevent
      > the alcohol process because there will be no need for the yeast to
      > anaerobic respiration.( converting the sugar to O2, CO2 and ETOH )
      > the yeast are happy and grow really fast. In 7 days there will be
      > a cloud of yeast that you can make all the liquid starter you need.
      > Stop feeding and run for another 2 days to make sure all the sugar
      > eaten. This point is important and is usually missed even in a lot
      > popular books. If you still have sugar, storage becomes a problem.
      > Turn the whole thing off and let it settle for a day or two to make
      > nice sludge at the bottom. It is not necessary to allow it to clear
      > because the yeast is what you are after.
      > Rack off as much liquid as you can without disturbing the sludge.
      > should leave about 2.5 gallons of liquid,
      > Procedure for storing liquid starter.
      > I get my bottles by buying a good import beer without twist off
      > Procure 12 count 12 oz. beer bottles and new caps. Boil 12 bottles
      > a large pot for at least 30 minutes. Skip the sterilization
      > used for homebrew. These are not needed. Also boil a funnel and a
      > for dipping and a large spoon for stirring.
      > Remove the bottles from the bath without touching the mouth of the
      > bottle. Make sure they are empty. A bit of water left will not hurt.
      > Place the caps in some high proof, at least 40%, alcohol to
      > Wipe all the bottle mouths with alcohol on the inside top and
      > before filling. A paper towel dipped in clean alcohol works well.
      > Stir the contents of the tank. Ladle the contents into the bottles
      > being neat. If you mess up the top of the bottle, clean with alcohol
      > again. Remove a cap from the alcohol and cap the bottle. Store these
      > in the refrigerator. Do not allow them to freeze as freezing will
      > a lot of brewing and wine yeasts. Specialized bakers strains can be
      > frozen but we are not using these.
      > Each one of these bottles is a super starter. It contains enough
      > to ferment 5 gallons of 1.08 sugar water unaided. They are also
      > prolific yeast because they were propagated with air. I have used a
      > single bottle to ferment 40 gallons of nutrient balanced wash with
      > issues.
      > So for all the preparation it makes it as simple a pop and pitch.


      One further step with glycerin will allow you to freeze almost any
      yeast you propagate or harvest. See here for one way...

      Glycerin buffer prevents the cells from bursting (water expands as
      ice when frozen).

      regards Harry
    • daddyman00126
      Thanks for the laugh, I needed it. The best for last BILL1BURP ... years
      Message 2 of 15 , Mar 1, 2008
        Thanks for the laugh, I needed it.

        The best for last

        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
        <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
        > Ahh, Thanks Bill,
        > All i gots is a BA (Bullchit Artist), and one of them thar MBA
        > thingys (Master Bullchit Artist), but aint got one of them thar big
        > fancy thingies - PH.D (Piled Higer n' Deeper) - so i jest tries to
        > keep it simple :):). Plus being a lazy SOB (self made of course)
        > moonshiner meself...
        > Vino es Veritas,
        > Jim.
        > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "daddyman00126"
        > <daddyman00126@> wrote:
        > >
        > > True to the heart. You saved the best for last.
        > >
        > > Bill1burp
        > >
        > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
        > > <jamesonbeam1@> wrote:
        > Ayuppers Bill,
        > "Liquid Media:
        > This is a common method of storage for homebrewers and has also been
        > referred to as yeast ranching or parallel yeast culturing. The best
        > media for this method is wort or wort-containing media. Yeast is
        > inoculated into 10 - 20 ml of media and grown until it reaches the
        > stationary phase of growth (approximately 3 days) then stored in the
        > refrigerator as cold as possible (40 °F). That means don't keep it
        > on the door. Stocks should be made in duplicate; one to use for
        > brewing, the other as a stock. Some homebrewers prefer to build the
        > 10 ml culture upto a larger volume and then dispense it into 12 oz.
        > bottles. Storage in culture tubes or small jars also works fine. If
        > stored properly, these cultures are stable for up to 6 months and
        > then must be recultured (preferably from the untouched master
        > stock). There are reports that storage in 10% sucrose after growth
        > in wort can increase the shelf-life of yeast to as long as 2 years.
        > In this case, it seems to be necessary to remove all residual
        > nutrients or wort since direct addition of sucrose to the stationary
        > yeast leads to continued fermentation even at 40 °F. Other bona-fide
        > non-fermentable sugars such as lactose or glycerol may be more
        > suitable but have yet to be tested for improving yeast's shelf-life.
        > Yeast strains vary in their sensitivity to storage in liquid wort.
        > In general, only a small percentage of the cells survive storage.
        > Therefore, it may be necessary to store in volumes larger than 10 ml
        > especially if longer storage periods are used. Culturing in wort has
        > been extensively characterized by the National Collection of Yeast
        > Cultures (NCYC). They have cultured yeast for periods of up to 60
        > years and find that the mutation rate can be high. Of 600 strains
        > studied as many as 50% with specific nutritional markers had lost at
        > least some of their specific markers after culturing for 10-25 years
        > (that's after 20-50 passages). This was for all types of yeast
        > strains including brewing yeasts. 10% of the 300 brewing yeast
        > strains tested showed changes in flocculation behavior after 10
        > or 20 passages. Thus storage in liquid media is feasible, but it is
        > not the method of choice for long-term storage since it can undergo
        > considerable genetic drift from the original stock. It is not clear
        > whether minimizing the number of passages will also reduce the
        > overall mutation rate."
        > by
        > MB Raines-Casselman, Ph.D
        > (or you just keep it bubblin' by adding some sugar and water now and
        > then like i do - the lazy man's way :):):)
        > Vino es Veritas,
        > Jim.
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