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Re: Yeast for corn whiskey

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  • jamesonbeam1
    Ahh, Thanks Bill, All i gots is a BA (Bullchit Artist), and one of them thar MBA thingys (Master Bullchit Artist), but aint got one of them thar big fancy
    Message 1 of 15 , Mar 1, 2008
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      Ahh, Thanks Bill,

      All i gots is a BA (Bullchit Artist), and one of them thar MBA
      thingys (Master Bullchit Artist), but aint got one of them thar big
      fancy thingies - PH.D (Piled Higer n' Deeper) - so i jest tries to
      keep it simple :):). Plus being a lazy SOB (self made of course)
      moonshiner meself...

      Vino es Veritas,
      Jim.

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "daddyman00126"
      <daddyman00126@...> wrote:
      >
      > True to the heart. You saved the best for last.
      >
      > Bill1burp
      >
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
      > <jamesonbeam1@> wrote:

      Ayuppers Bill,

      "Liquid Media:
      This is a common method of storage for homebrewers and has also been
      referred to as yeast ranching or parallel yeast culturing. The best
      media for this method is wort or wort-containing media. Yeast is
      inoculated into 10 - 20 ml of media and grown until it reaches the
      stationary phase of growth (approximately 3 days) then stored in the
      refrigerator as cold as possible (40 °F). That means don't keep it
      on the door. Stocks should be made in duplicate; one to use for
      brewing, the other as a stock. Some homebrewers prefer to build the
      10 ml culture upto a larger volume and then dispense it into 12 oz.
      bottles. Storage in culture tubes or small jars also works fine. If
      stored properly, these cultures are stable for up to 6 months and
      then must be recultured (preferably from the untouched master
      stock). There are reports that storage in 10% sucrose after growth
      in wort can increase the shelf-life of yeast to as long as 2 years.
      In this case, it seems to be necessary to remove all residual
      nutrients or wort since direct addition of sucrose to the stationary
      yeast leads to continued fermentation even at 40 °F. Other bona-fide
      non-fermentable sugars such as lactose or glycerol may be more
      suitable but have yet to be tested for improving yeast's shelf-life.
      Yeast strains vary in their sensitivity to storage in liquid wort.
      In general, only a small percentage of the cells survive storage.
      Therefore, it may be necessary to store in volumes larger than 10 ml
      especially if longer storage periods are used. Culturing in wort has
      been extensively characterized by the National Collection of Yeast
      Cultures (NCYC). They have cultured yeast for periods of up to 60
      years and find that the mutation rate can be high. Of 600 strains
      studied as many as 50% with specific nutritional markers had lost at
      least some of their specific markers after culturing for 10-25 years
      (that's after 20-50 passages). This was for all types of yeast
      strains including brewing yeasts. 10% of the 300 brewing yeast
      strains tested showed changes in flocculation behavior after 10 years
      or 20 passages. Thus storage in liquid media is feasible, but it is
      not the method of choice for long-term storage since it can undergo
      considerable genetic drift from the original stock. It is not clear
      whether minimizing the number of passages will also reduce the
      overall mutation rate."

      by

      MB Raines-Casselman, Ph.D

      (or you just keep it bubblin' by adding some sugar and water now and
      then like i do - the lazy man's way :):):)

      Vino es Veritas,
      Jim.
    • Harry
      ... and ... a ... pure. ... tops ... use ... So ... such ... is ... of ... a ... You ... caps. ... in ... chemicals ... cup ... sterilize. ... outside ... kill
      Message 2 of 15 , Mar 1, 2008
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        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Sherman" <pintoshine@...>
        wrote:
        >
        > This is a practical implementation of that dissertation.
        > When I use a fish tank to grow yeast, I use at least three stones
        and
        > a typical pump suited to a ten gallon tank. I start with a very weak
        > molasses, urea, and b complex to make a 5 gallon mixture. I try for
        a
        > gravity of 1.020 which isn't much molasses.
        >
        > Procedure for fish tank yeast propagator.
        > So I start with:
        > 64 fl oz of molasses
        > 1 tbs urea or DAP or your favorite nitrogen source.
        > 2 one a day style vitamins ground fine.
        > 1/4 tsp Epsom salts, I usually find the USP grade which is very
        pure.
        > boil all this together in a gallon of water for 30 minutes.
        >
        > Add enough water to bring the level to half a 10 gallon fish tank.
        > Cover the thing with a support and a thin cloth. The hamster wire
        tops
        > are fine for this.
        >
        > With no alcohol and this small gravity yeast grow like crazy.
        > The next 6 days I add another 16 oz of molasses.
        >
        > The yeast is still going to make copious amounts of CO2. This will
        > make a gas cap on top of the liquid. The air coming in will prevent
        > the alcohol process because there will be no need for the yeast to
        use
        > anaerobic respiration.( converting the sugar to O2, CO2 and ETOH )
        So
        > the yeast are happy and grow really fast. In 7 days there will be
        such
        > a cloud of yeast that you can make all the liquid starter you need.
        > Stop feeding and run for another 2 days to make sure all the sugar
        is
        > eaten. This point is important and is usually missed even in a lot
        of
        > popular books. If you still have sugar, storage becomes a problem.
        >
        > Turn the whole thing off and let it settle for a day or two to make
        a
        > nice sludge at the bottom. It is not necessary to allow it to clear
        > because the yeast is what you are after.
        > Rack off as much liquid as you can without disturbing the sludge.
        You
        > should leave about 2.5 gallons of liquid,
        >
        > Procedure for storing liquid starter.
        > I get my bottles by buying a good import beer without twist off
        caps.
        > Procure 12 count 12 oz. beer bottles and new caps. Boil 12 bottles
        in
        > a large pot for at least 30 minutes. Skip the sterilization
        chemicals
        > used for homebrew. These are not needed. Also boil a funnel and a
        cup
        > for dipping and a large spoon for stirring.
        >
        > Remove the bottles from the bath without touching the mouth of the
        > bottle. Make sure they are empty. A bit of water left will not hurt.
        >
        > Place the caps in some high proof, at least 40%, alcohol to
        sterilize.
        > Wipe all the bottle mouths with alcohol on the inside top and
        outside
        > before filling. A paper towel dipped in clean alcohol works well.
        >
        > Stir the contents of the tank. Ladle the contents into the bottles
        > being neat. If you mess up the top of the bottle, clean with alcohol
        > again. Remove a cap from the alcohol and cap the bottle. Store these
        > in the refrigerator. Do not allow them to freeze as freezing will
        kill
        > a lot of brewing and wine yeasts. Specialized bakers strains can be
        > frozen but we are not using these.
        >
        > Each one of these bottles is a super starter. It contains enough
        yeast
        > to ferment 5 gallons of 1.08 sugar water unaided. They are also
        > prolific yeast because they were propagated with air. I have used a
        > single bottle to ferment 40 gallons of nutrient balanced wash with
        no
        > issues.
        >
        > So for all the preparation it makes it as simple a pop and pitch.



        Sherman,

        One further step with glycerin will allow you to freeze almost any
        yeast you propagate or harvest. See here for one way...
        http://www.schwedhelm.net/brew/yeast_harv_freeze.html

        Glycerin buffer prevents the cells from bursting (water expands as
        ice when frozen).

        Slainte!
        regards Harry
      • daddyman00126
        Thanks for the laugh, I needed it. The best for last BILL1BURP ... years
        Message 3 of 15 , Mar 1, 2008
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          Thanks for the laugh, I needed it.

          The best for last
          BILL1BURP


          --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
          <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
          >
          > Ahh, Thanks Bill,
          >
          > All i gots is a BA (Bullchit Artist), and one of them thar MBA
          > thingys (Master Bullchit Artist), but aint got one of them thar big
          > fancy thingies - PH.D (Piled Higer n' Deeper) - so i jest tries to
          > keep it simple :):). Plus being a lazy SOB (self made of course)
          > moonshiner meself...
          >
          > Vino es Veritas,
          > Jim.
          >
          > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "daddyman00126"
          > <daddyman00126@> wrote:
          > >
          > > True to the heart. You saved the best for last.
          > >
          > > Bill1burp
          > >
          > > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1"
          > > <jamesonbeam1@> wrote:
          >
          > Ayuppers Bill,
          >
          > "Liquid Media:
          > This is a common method of storage for homebrewers and has also been
          > referred to as yeast ranching or parallel yeast culturing. The best
          > media for this method is wort or wort-containing media. Yeast is
          > inoculated into 10 - 20 ml of media and grown until it reaches the
          > stationary phase of growth (approximately 3 days) then stored in the
          > refrigerator as cold as possible (40 °F). That means don't keep it
          > on the door. Stocks should be made in duplicate; one to use for
          > brewing, the other as a stock. Some homebrewers prefer to build the
          > 10 ml culture upto a larger volume and then dispense it into 12 oz.
          > bottles. Storage in culture tubes or small jars also works fine. If
          > stored properly, these cultures are stable for up to 6 months and
          > then must be recultured (preferably from the untouched master
          > stock). There are reports that storage in 10% sucrose after growth
          > in wort can increase the shelf-life of yeast to as long as 2 years.
          > In this case, it seems to be necessary to remove all residual
          > nutrients or wort since direct addition of sucrose to the stationary
          > yeast leads to continued fermentation even at 40 °F. Other bona-fide
          > non-fermentable sugars such as lactose or glycerol may be more
          > suitable but have yet to be tested for improving yeast's shelf-life.
          > Yeast strains vary in their sensitivity to storage in liquid wort.
          > In general, only a small percentage of the cells survive storage.
          > Therefore, it may be necessary to store in volumes larger than 10 ml
          > especially if longer storage periods are used. Culturing in wort has
          > been extensively characterized by the National Collection of Yeast
          > Cultures (NCYC). They have cultured yeast for periods of up to 60
          > years and find that the mutation rate can be high. Of 600 strains
          > studied as many as 50% with specific nutritional markers had lost at
          > least some of their specific markers after culturing for 10-25 years
          > (that's after 20-50 passages). This was for all types of yeast
          > strains including brewing yeasts. 10% of the 300 brewing yeast
          > strains tested showed changes in flocculation behavior after 10
          years
          > or 20 passages. Thus storage in liquid media is feasible, but it is
          > not the method of choice for long-term storage since it can undergo
          > considerable genetic drift from the original stock. It is not clear
          > whether minimizing the number of passages will also reduce the
          > overall mutation rate."
          >
          > by
          >
          > MB Raines-Casselman, Ph.D
          >
          > (or you just keep it bubblin' by adding some sugar and water now and
          > then like i do - the lazy man's way :):):)
          >
          > Vino es Veritas,
          > Jim.
          >
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