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Re: Wood furnace as a heat source

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  • Harry
    ... btu. ... added ... of ... to go. ... work ... Yup. Go with the direct contact. Use all copper tubing (1/2 ) for the plumbing and heat exchanger. You
    Message 1 of 5 , Nov 9, 2005
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      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sugarmountain01"
      <sugarmountain01@y...> wrote:
      > Thanks for your input, It is a ripper of a wood furnace with a 35
      > gallon water jacket surrounding the firebox. It is rated at 90,000
      btu.
      > As far as the Temp of the water goes, there is ehtelyne glycol
      added
      > (as antifreeze, since it is outside) as well as the water is under
      > between 20-30 lbs pressure. Either would add to the boiling point
      of
      > the water in the system which could be as high as 230F. The problem
      > with that is the PEX tubing used for plumbing may melt down at that
      > high of a temperature. So the 220 range is as high as I would want
      to go.
      > I am guessing that a coil with direct contact with the mash would
      work
      > better than one wrapped around a stainless canister since the heat
      > transfer would be more direct.



      Yup. Go with the direct contact. Use all copper tubing (1/2") for
      the plumbing and heat exchanger. You don't necessarily have to make
      the exchanger a coil. That would restrict flow and you may run into
      pumping troubles. A better solution is a grid of straight bars with
      a common manifold pipe at each end of the bars. Much less friction.


      Slainte!
      regards Harry
      Moderator
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