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Old Time Corn Whiskey

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  • Harry
    I got this some time ago from a kiwi site. I won t give the link as it tries to download tracker.exe from every page of the site (not kosher, IMHO). It s
    Message 1 of 1 , Dec 29, 2004
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      I got this some time ago from a kiwi site. I won't give the link as
      it tries to download tracker.exe from every page of the site (not
      kosher, IMHO). It's also part of the source of what I know
      about 'Proof Vials'. Anyway, here 'tis...

      From www dot snoopy-bugger-site dot co.nz :-))

      March '99 Newsletter


      The fine art of moonshining

      1. Go to the woods and find a good place to hide your still - near a
      good source of water. Next, construct any water lines which may be
      needed.

      2. Next choose the corn you will be using. Do not use a hybrid or
      yellow corn. Use a good, fresh, white corn like holcomb prolific,
      which will produce about three quarts of whiskey per bushel.
      Inferior brands will only produce about two and a half quarts per
      bushel. Get nine bushels.

      3. Put at least a bushel and a half aside to sprout (no more than
      two bushels). In the winter put this corn in a tub, add warm water,
      and let it stand for twenty-four hours. Then drain it and move it to
      a sprouting tub. Cover it with plenty of warm water; leave it for
      fifteen minutes and drain. Put the tub close to a stove, and turn
      the cold side of the tub to the stove at least once a day. Each day
      add warm water again, leave it for fifteen minutes, and drain it off
      again leaving the tub close to the stove. Also transfer the corn
      from the bottom of the tub to the top of the tub at least once a day
      to make sure it all gets the same amount of heat. You should have
      good malt in four or five days with shoots about two inches long and
      good roots.
      In summer, simply put the corn to be sprouted out in the sun in tow
      sacks. Sprinkle warm water over them once a day, and flip the sacks
      over. Be careful, however, not to let the corn get too hot or it
      will go slick, when it starts to get too hot, stir it up and give it
      air to cool it.

      4. The day before the sprouted corn is ready, take the remaining
      eight bushels of corn to the miller to be ground up. Do not let him
      crush the corn or you will have some heavy material left that will
      sink to the bottom of the still and burn. Take this meal to the
      woods. The last three or four days should have been spent building
      the furnace and installing the still. It should be ready to work
      now. Build a fire under the still. Fill it nearly full with water,
      and stir in a half a bushel of corn meal. When it comes to a boil,
      let it bubble thirty five to forty minutes. Cook it well or it will
      puke too much when cooking it later. When it has cooked
      sufficiently, bring one of the barrels over, put it under the slop
      arm of the still, push in the plug stick, and let the contents of
      the still fill the barrel. Add a gallon of yet uncooked meal and let
      the hot contents of the barrel cook it alone. Make sure it is
      stirred in well. Move the barrel aside, and repeat the whole process
      until the meal is cooked. ( return home )

      5. The next day, get the sprouted corn (malt) ground up at the mill
      and take it to the woods. You can also use a sausage mill. In the
      woods, thin out the mash you made yesterday. This is done by
      standing a mash stick upright in each barrel. Add water and stir it
      in until the mash stick falls over against the side easily of its
      own weight. When all are thinned, add a gallon of malt to each
      barrel and stir it in. At the same time, add a double handful of raw
      rye to each barrel, sprinkling it over the top. This helps to make
      the cap, helps the mixture begin working, and helps the final
      product hold a good bead. (If using sugar, add ten pounds to each
      barrel the same time you are adding the malt) cover the barrels if
      they get rained in your work is ruined. ( return home )

      6. The next day, the mixtures should be working. If one or two of
      them aren't, then mix them back and forth with the ones that are,
      using a dipper. You, want them all to be working at the same time so
      that they will all be ready to run at the same time. This liquid is
      known as beer. ( return home )

      7. The next day, return to the site and stir up the mixture in each
      of the barrels to, speed up their workings. ( return home )

      8. About two days later, check again. At the same time, gather the
      wood you will need, bring in kegs, fruit jars, and whatever else you
      may need. (On this forth day, if your using sugar, add a half of
      gallon of malt to each barrel and thirty-five to forty pounds of
      sugar to each barrel. Stir it in and let the mixture work for five
      more days. )

      9. If you are not using sugar, then the whole mixture should be
      ready to run on the fifth day of its working. (With sugar it takes
      about nine or ten days.) You can tell when it is ready by studying
      the cap that has formed over the beer. Sometimes this cap will be
      two inches thick. Sometimes it will only be a half-inch thick, and
      sometime it will only be suds and blubber, called a "blossom cap"
      all of these will be fine. When the cap is nearly gone, or only a
      few remnants left scattered on the top, the mixture is ready to run.
      The alcohol has eaten the cap off the beer. Do not wait to run it at
      this point or the mixture will turn to vinegar, and the vinegar will
      eat the alcohol thus ruining the beer. It is better to run the whole
      thing a day early than a day late. You'll still get mild good
      whiskey. Appearance of " dog heads" also indicates its ready to run.
      [Note one variation on the above process was also popular. Two
      bushels of mash were put in each fifty five gallon barrel and cold
      water added no cooking was used. This mixture would sour in three to
      four days and produce a crust. This would be broken up, stirred in,
      and the mixture left for another two or three days until the mixture
      would sour again. Then a gallon and a half of malt was added to each
      barrel and the mixture allowed to work for another week. At this
      point, it was ready to run in the same manner as the other we have
      been describing.

      10. Now all the connections on the still are sealed up with a stiff
      rye paste save for the cap and cap arm. The plug stick inserted
      through the top of the still, handle first, and the handle pulled
      out through the slop arm until the ball of rags at the other end
      jams the opening. Fill the still almost to the top (leave about 3
      gal. off for expansion due to heat) with the beer. Put 10 gallons of
      beer in the thump barrel. Build up a fire underneath, as the beer
      heats, stir it continuously with the swab stick to keep it from
      sticking to the bottom and sides of the still. Keep this up until it
      has come to a rolling boil and can thus keep itself stirred. Then
      paste on the cap and cap arm using rye dough.

      11. Chunk the fire easy, start slowly, and gradually building it up
      in intensity. About 15 min. After the beer starts boiling in the
      still, the steam will hit the cold beer in the thump barrel and
      start it bubbling and thumping. On cold days, this thumping can be
      heard for several hundred yards through the woods.when the thumping
      quits, the beer is boiling smoothly in the still and doing fine.
      Place a container under the end of the condenser. A funnel should be
      inserted in the container which is lined with a clean, fine, while
      cloth on the bottom, a yarn cloth on top of that, and a double
      handful of washed hickory coals on top of that. The coals remove
      the "bardy grease" (it shows up as an oil slick on top of the
      whiskey if not drained off) which can make one very ill.

      12. When the thumping stops, the whiskey starts. A gush or two of
      steam will proceed it at the condenser end. This will be followed by
      a strong surge of liquid which quickly subsides to a trickle. On the
      second surge, she's coming for good as one man said. Begin catching
      the alcohol on the second surge (if it is being made with sugar,
      this first run will not hold a bead. Save it anyway). Keep running
      the still as long as there is any taste of alcohol in the liquid
      being produced. Then drain the thump barrel, add the results of the
      first run, about 10 gallons of backings. Then drain the still
      through the slop arm and fill it with beer as before.

      13. On the second run through, you'll have good whiskey because the
      steam has gone through the backings in the thumper. It will be
      double strength. Keep checking it with the proof vial, catching it
      as it comes out the condenser, thumping it in the palm of your hand
      and watching for bubbles. When it's dead , pull the container away.
      You should have two to three gallons of good whiskey. The bead on
      which will be half under the liquid and half over it. (if you're
      running sugar whiskey the results from the first run on will be
      whiskey. And the bead will be two thirds under the surface and one
      third over it. ) catch the remainder of the second run in another
      container. These are new backings for the third run. Another way to
      tell if the whiskey is still strong enough to catch in the container
      of good stuff is by taking some of the alcohol , dashing it on the
      hot still cap, and holding a match to the steam. If it burns keep it
      running.

      14. From the second run , you should have two or three gallons of
      good whiskey and seven or eight gallons of backings. Drain the
      faints out of the thumper and let them hit the ground and run away.
      They are no good for anything. Add the new backings to the thumper.
      Drain the still, fill it again with fresh beer, and run it a third
      time. This time, since there are fewer backing you'll get less
      liquor, but more backings for the fourth run. On the forth run,
      you'll get more liquor because you have more backings, but you" also
      get fewer backings for the fifth run and so on. The yield will vary
      up and down with each still full. Keep running until all the beer
      has been used up. Without a thumper, all the backings would have
      been saved , and all run through the still on the last run.

      15. After about seven runs, the net result will be about seven to
      ten gallons of pure corn ( unsugared ) whiskey, for an average of
      about a gallon to a gallon and a half per bushel of corn. ( with
      sugar the result should be about six gallons to a bushel ) these are
      called" high shots " they are about two hundred proof and must be
      cut to be drinkable. To cut either add about one third backing from
      the last run, or water. Many prefer water. Add the liquor you are
      cutting the alcohol with until it holds a good steady bead in the
      proof vial. If the bead will not hold steady after three good thumps
      in the palm of your hand, then it will stand any amount of jolting
      and bumping during shipment. From nine gallons of high shot you
      should get about twelve gallons of fine whiskey.
      Other hints
      1. If wood fuel is being used ash is best of all. It gives a good
      steady heat and no smoke. Also good are hickory and mountain oak.

      2. Always use copper . Beer doesn't stick to it so badly , and there
      is less
      chance of any kind of metal poisoning.

      3. Never let the whiskey run too fast . Always keep it cold while it
      is running . If it kept as cold as the water it is being condensed
      by , it will remain smooth and mild and not harsh to the taste.
      About sixty degrees is normal.

      4 Use the best water available ( many prefer to use streams running
      west off the north side of a hill ) the water could make a
      difference of several gallons in the final yield.

      5. Everything must be kept spotless . The copper inside the still
      should shine like gold . Barrels too must be kept clean. Smoke them
      out after each use with several handfuls of corn meal bran set afire.

      6. Add three or four drops of rye flavoring to each gallon of
      whiskey to give it a yellow tint and a distinct rye flavor.

      7. The place to make the whiskey is in the boxes . If it's not right
      there no amount of cooking and boiling can save it.


      Slainte!
      regards Harry
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